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Reducing Intake Plumbing


Goobz

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  • Member For: 19y 6m 6d
  • Location: Sutherland Shire, Sydney

I am thinking about swapping the battery and the air box around in an effort to reduce the intake plumbing a bit, and had a few questions for anyone that's done it.

1. Is it really worth it? Are the gains worth the effort?

2.Whats involved? I was thinking about bolting in a battery tray from Super Cheap then using a pod filter on the other side with a custom heat shield. Or maybe an XR8 air box with CAI?

3. Are there any tricks or tricky bits I should know about? There is a hose(PCV???) that comes out of the rocker cover and goes into the inlet. Is this really needed to go into the inlet, or can it go into an overflow bottle or something?

Any pics would be appreciated! :gooff:

Thanks for the help

Chris :3gears:

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I am thinking about swapping the battery and the air box around in an effort to reduce the intake plumbing a bit, and had a few questions for anyone that's done it.

1. Is it really worth it? Are the gains worth the effort?

dw....yes as long as you do the cooler plumbing

2.Whats involved? I was thinking about bolting in a battery tray from Super Cheap then using a pod filter on the other side with a custom heat shield. Or maybe an XR8 air box with CAI?

dw....run it under the battery like pretzel and bri bri

3. Are there any tricks or tricky bits I should know about? There is a hose(PCV???) that comes out of the rocker cover and goes into the inlet. Is this really needed to go into the inlet, or can it go into an overflow bottle or something?

dw.... I use catch cans and inlarge the size of th hose

Any pics would be appreciated!  :fool:

pretzel006.jpg

pretzel005.jpg

pretzel001.jpg

Thanks for the help

Chris  :fool:

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I was surprised to read in another forum that, if you do the swap with the battery and do the intercooler mod you remove 3 metres of plumbing.

Too bad Ford havn't caught on to this. I guess their too lazy to change the production line. After all the XR6T and the Typhoon are special vehicles, so why don't Ford make make a few small changes.

Especially for the Typhoon being a FPV model.

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  • Member For: 21y 2m 19d
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I was surprised to read in another forum that, if you do the swap with the battery and do the intercooler mod you remove 3 metres of plumbing.

Too bad Ford havn't caught on to this.  I guess their too lazy to change the production line.  After all the XR6T and the Typhoon are special vehicles, so why don't Ford make make a few small changes. 

Especially for the Typhoon being a FPV model.

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A, with the throttle body located in the same place as the N\A engines it is cheaper for the production line, and B They need to do all they can to keep a standard XR6 Turbo slower than a top of the line GT, if they cut down the inlet piping and a few other things they wouldn't have a hope

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  • Member For: 19y 3m 14d
  • Location: Perth

I'm sure replacing the factory inlet manifolding has a benefit, but at what point? I've just squeezed out 330rwkw with the stock manifolding, with probably another 20rwkw to come.

Anyone care to comment?

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  • Member For: 20y 11m 27d

DW, I note on the pic that shows the outlet from the turbo (see below) that the pipe being used is an accordian-type stretchy sort of pipe.

Correct me if Im wrong, but isnt that a terrible sort of pipe ot use anywhere you have a pipe whose aim is to allow good unrestricted airflow?

Sure it may be nice and flexible and easy to route about the engine bay and saves you having to source a custom made hard part that fits, but if the internal structure of that pipe is anything even remotely similar to what I can see on the outside, it will be very inefficient and terrible in terms of efficient airflow.

You sure wouldnt use something corrugated like that on an exhaust system now would you...??!

I am thinking about swapping the battery and the air box around in an effort to reduce the intake plumbing a bit, and had a few questions for anyone that's done it.

1. Is it really worth it? Are the gains worth the effort?

dw....yes as long as you do the cooler plumbing

2.Whats involved? I was thinking about bolting in a battery tray from Super Cheap then using a pod filter on the other side with a custom heat shield. Or maybe an XR8 air box with CAI?

dw....run it under the battery like pretzel and bri bri

3. Are there any tricks or tricky bits I should know about? There is a hose(PCV???) that comes out of the rocker cover and goes into the inlet. Is this really needed to go into the inlet, or can it go into an overflow bottle or something?

dw.... I use catch cans and inlarge the size of th hose

Any pics would be appreciated!  :gooff:

<div class='bbimg'><div class='bbimg'>

pretzel005.jpg
</div></div>

Thanks for the help

Chris  :gooff:

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<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

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  • Member For: 20y 1m 25d
  • Location: Melbourne

If you want the ultimate reduction in plumbing length then you need to replace the plenum or the complete inlet manifold to acheive a front entry to the plenum. This will dramatically reduce the plumbing from the exit line from the IC to the engine inlet.

Going under the battery or swaping the battery over are both viable - swapping the battery is likely to be more expensive but should require less non-reversable modification of the car.

If you are swaping the plumbing around, you definitely want to also replace the stock intercooler.

Nizpro Stage two addresses all these issues and provides a very neat, well engineered package. Rob (Mr Turbo) also has a custom made plenum - he can provide details. You will pay a premium for the Nizpro package relative to piecing together the parts (although I beleive Nizpro will sell components), the finish of the Nizpro set up is spot on - and I am loving mine.

Fitting the Nizpro stage two kit transformed my car - so I can definitely recommend going down the path of reducing the intake plumbing and fitting a better intercooler.

Key differences for me relate more to drivability, responsiveness, fuel economy, top end power, and consistancy of power.

For my car, I have elected to accept a conservative torque curve out of consideration of the stock engine internals. Peak power is up about 30kW on what I had prior to the change, but the maximum torque curves through the mid range are near identical. Whilst the curves are very very close, the driving experience is completely different. The car is far more progressive with throttle position, has considerably more instant grunt available, and is much much better to drive. It also make power much more easily.

Based on my experience, fitting the Nizpro plumbing and intercooler along with the associated re-tune was definitely a good decision.

Good luck :spoton:

Ben.

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