Jump to content

How To Change your Oil and Filter in a T


ZAP

Recommended Posts

  • No boost, no bottle, just my foot on the throttle!
  • Lifetime Members
  • Member For: 20y 1m 15d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Sydney

NOTE: This thread was compiled with a BA XR6T in mind, other variants and the newer models use a different filter - Ford part# AFL101. Otherwise the process is still the same.

I thought I would write up a quick How To on doing an oil change. Some of you may say it’s easy, but for the less mechanically inclined members I thought it is a good idea. May be the Mods could start a Maintenance heading for the basic mods and maintenance that is often asked about on this forum.

To Change the Oil you will need the following:

Z9 Oil Filter (Repco or any parts store) or AFL1 (Ford Part Number)

6.5Lt of oil (Magnatec or 10w50)

17mm Ring Spanner

Oil filter strap/wrench

Oil drop bucket

20 mins of time.

I recommend that you change the oil when the car is warm (NOT HOT) as it makes the oil more liquid and will allow it to drain easier.

You will need to elevate the left front of the car using car ramps or jacks (use stands).

Remove the oil cap then under the car and place the oil bucket under the drain plug. Remember the oil will come out with a bit of pressure, so make sure you move the bucket to compensate for the distance the oil will travel.

1468.jpg

Using the 17mm ring spanner undo the sump plug/bolt until its finger loose and then remove the bolt by hand. Do not drop the bolt into the oil and remember the oil can be HOT. Wait for the oil to empty, when it is just dripping replace the sump plug.

1472.jpg

Using the filter wrench loosen the oil filter Anti clockwise until it’s loose. By hand undo the filter and once removed DO NOT invert it as it will be full of hot oil.

1471.jpg

It’s also advisable to put the oil bucket under the filter position to catch the trickle of oil. Tip the excess oil out of the filter into the bucket.

Getting the new oil filter, dip your finger into the old oil and smear around the rubber ring on the top of the new filter. This will give you a better seal on the filter and prevent the rubber pinching when you tighten the filter.

1475.jpg

Screw the filter in clockwise and tighten up hand tight. Do not try to over tighten as it will leak, hand tight is fine.

Check to make sure the sump plug is in and everything is clear from under the car.

Pour the new oil into the oil filler, put in 5lt initially and then check the dipstick (wipe before checking) and fill to the Full mark. Check for any leaks on the ground. The BA's have a feature that when you floor the accelorator and try to start the car it will not start. This is a good way to get the oil flowing around the motor without starting. I suggest 2 x 5 second crankings to get the oil around. Then just start the engine as normal. DO NOT rev the engine, let it idle for about 1 min and keep checking around the filter and plug for leaks. Stop the engine and check the oil level. It will require more oil as the filter would have filled with oil.

Once the oil is right check for handprints or any spilt oil and clean up. Place the old oil into a suitable container and dispose in an oil recycling depot (most tips).

You have just changed your oil and saved about $60+ in the process.

I am going of memory for the oil capacity, so make sure you have enough and check before adding anymore.

I also recommed that you use a mineral based oil like Castrol Magnatec for the first 15,000km and not a synthetic oil. This will allow the motor to bed in properly.

In the Turbos, you should change your oil every 5,000-7500km and not the recommended 15,000km that Ford thinks is suitable.

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
  • Create New...
'