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  1. Anyone know why my bf xr6t is making a clunking/clicking/tapping noise, its coming from the front left I think!? I took the wheel off and I think I checked all the bushes and they seemed fine but im nomechanic, only one I was abit worried about was the ball joint bush, it wasnt split just looked like wornish? I also attempted to check the ball joint and no noises by shaking the wheel.. I didnt jack up both sides though if that effects it? It was really dry though when I unbolted the upper control arm. And its also worse when theres passengers in the car and when turning left, I was thinking power steering because if im turning the wheel left to right while idling you can hear a click but no leaks or no fluid loss. Any help would be much appreciated before I take it to a mechanics and get absolutely raunted.
  2. Thought I'd finally make a thread on my car, purchased her back in Oct '14 and this year finally got around to getting it tuned and ready for Powerplay May '16 and made 308rwkw/413rwhp Got the car pretty much exactly as I want it, but as all would know the power bug has bitten and I want more! Anyways lets rewind back just a bit.... This was the day I got her and now..... and the powarrrr
  3. Anyone had diff mount bolts fail? Not the centre bolt but the side? Would it be easier to drop the cradle or the fuel tank to replace?
  4. Hey guys Ive recently (well in the last 12 months) put a Genuine F6 body kit on the front of my FG XR6T tonner Ute. After I had a little run in with a fence I decided an upgrade would be better than a repair. So I thought Id document the journey and recorded parts & prices in case anyone else is interested in doing the same thing. DECISION When doing an FPV body kit there are 2 main routs you can take; Genuine or Fiberglass, each with their benefits & drawbacks. -Basically going genuine will cost a hell of a lot more & you will probably have difficulty finding individual parts for an appropriate price. But it will fit 100% and be plastic meaning it will be more hardy if it catches or scrapes on gutters. The easiest option is to check in with FPV focused wreckers for complete body kits straight off the car. -All after market kits are Fiberglass, which tends to (the internet told me this) crack and splinter more than plastic as it is not as Flexible. It will most likely need massaging & trimming to fit properly and a lot more prep-work for a good paint finish. However... with bumpers on ebay starting from $300 they are far cheaper, especially considering that they have the lower grill surround, upper grill surround & fog light surrounds already in the mold which genuine can cost $300 each & are very hard to find. There are also ones that are molded to suit the XR style headlights if you prefer to keep that look. I would genuinely recommend people go this rout if they have the time to prep the bumper or want to have a go painting it themselves. I went the Genuine rout, mostly because this is a daily work & leisure ute that will certainly see gutters, and because I underestimated how many other parts there where to find, and the cost & difficulty in acquiring them. Just for the front end parts I spent over $2500 before paint. SHOPPING LIST Here is my receipt for the front end & side skirts. Purchasing the bumper in early August 2015 & finally getting my hands on a pair of fog light surrounds in mid January, it was a drawn out process that took a solid 6 Months on eBay, calling wreckers and shopping around. Collected parts from Sydney Special Vehicles, FTG AutoSalvage, Macarthur Auto Parts, eBay sellers: mr.fpv, ikeech, mrcarparts.59 and Gumtree Genuine: -FPV Bumper: $900 -FPV Upper Insert : $300 -FPV Upper insert rear molding: $205 -F6 Lower Insert: $250 (slight damage) -FPV Fog Light surrounds & brackets: $270 -Stone/Splash Guard Extension lip: $100 (bargain) -FPV Ute Side skirts + Brackets, cabin only: $680 Aftermarket: -Upper Grill: $210 -Lower side Grills: $140 -F6 Headlights: $199 -Stainless bolts for stone guard: $15 -Short button head screws for grills: $5 BUMPER Bumper was the first thing I picked up. Found it on Gumtree, new, never used, was in storage for project that never eventuated so $900 is a good price. All the parts are the same for F6 & GT until you talk about the lower grill area, that's the only difference. Upper Insert & the Upper Insert rear molding. I didn't even know the rear molding existed until I tried to put it all together, It basically clips the front insert & bumper together & provides screw holes for the grill. Luckily the guy I bought the front piece from knew what I was on about because I have never actually seen one listed on eBay. Probably the parts I over-paid the most for. F6 Lower Insert. Mine was missing the tow point cover and had some deep scratches in it that were bogged before painting, but the piece was still a bit pricey. The single hardest part to find for a 'reasonable' price. Eventually came across them on my fortnightly wreckers ring around. There was 2 other pairs I saw previously on eBay but were asking $400+ Chrome plastic surround with metal brackets to mount the fog light. The Splash Shield Extension lip was another part with little information that I only knew existed after asking another forum user. The FPV bumper is about 100mm longer and slightly lower (enough so that I now scrape when parking into gutters with stock suspension) I did however get a good deal on it. Was getting a new splash shield to replace my broken one so I messaged the eBayer about it who happened to have one and threw it in for an extra $100. Which is very good considering there's used lips on eBay atm for $300+. It bolts to the splash shield using existing screws. However mounting to the bumper is apparently done from factory with large plastic rivet thingys, so instead I got some stainless dome head bolts & lock nuts. Here's the Stainless bolts I used for the splash shield, Button head screws for the grills and you'll most likely need extra Scrivits or Christmas tree plugs for re-mounting mud guards, as I got out the angry pliers to remove them. For the Grills I went after market. They're stainless, cheaper, fit perfect, look the same and in the case of the Upper grill don't come with an F6 outline in them, which would look silly if you don't plan to put an F6 badge there. Find them on eBay. There's also the option of a central lower grill but I wanted the open Intercooler look. If going for a GT front the lower grill & insert will be different. There are only 2 shapes of FG headlight; XR & non-XR. Meaning the base model lights are the same as FPV, which keeps the price down for us. I went with aftermarket Sydney Special Vehicles Headlights though because they're cheaper for the same look, you can feel the lacking build quality though. I didn't like the look of the DRL/ fairy light options & already had HID kits ready to attach. Now the Wheel arch splash Guards have an ever so slightly different profile around the bottom of the bumper. You can spend the extra $500 or so on a full FPV set, or do what I did with some cutters to make them fit better & mount solid. Remove the bottom section of the mud guard. Cut off the outer screw point. Then Cut along the back edge about yay far. You can then remount with that tail part poking under the lip extension and secure in the same position but with only 2 bolts and some new Christmas tree plugs. Profile is still a little different but not $500 different Removing the old bumper involves 2 bolts under the bonnet; either side of the upper grill & then 2 on each corner of the bumper, accessed by pulling back the wheel arch mud guards. There's then 2 small bolts at the back of the under bumper splash shield. Un-clip the corners of the bumper, unplug the fog lights & it should all come off. Swap out the headlights and your good to put on your new bumper. All mounting points line up perfectly so just bolt it all back up. SIDE SKIRTS Now the Side skirts I lost the photos of. (Phone went swimming) But they were Genuine, new & in blue. There is a Chrome insert at the front of each that clips in, which for the pair goes for around $100, however mine came included with them. They also require 4 aluminum brackets (2per side) which I also lost the photos for. The wrecker who quoted me the $680 didn't realize there were brackets at first but called me back once they found out and included the ford brackets new in packaging for me at the same price. (ftgautosalvage, would recommend, were very friendly & helpful even with my regular calls asking for the same parts) I then had the panel beater fit them as I was doing 12hr night shifts at the time, but you could make your own brackets or ghetto rig them up if you wanted. PAINT I had the bumper painted for cheap by a local shop (Not my first choice as they were too busy) when it first showed up. Found the paint code used on 50th turbo wheels and had the fangs painted to match, scratches in the lower insert bogged and painted gloss black black along with the FPV logo section of the bumper. The rest was painted 09 Lightning strike with a pair of indicator mirrors. Left the parts with them, $300 and took about 3 weeks. Result was not good they must have painted the whole thing in the darker colors then masked up & put the silver over top. They're lines & paint job were good but the silver didn't match at all. So once the side skirts turned up I had them done at my preferred local shop. $800 Left the car with them for a few days. They blended the sides of the bumper into the quarter panels & bonnet. Took 7 blending coats but it turned out 90%, can only fault if your trying to find it at certain angles to the light. Painted & fitted side skirts which came out perfectly and didn't need any blending. RESULT Went from this: To This: Along with a new Bonnet, PW Stage2 Intercooler, side mount number plate, Indicator mirrors, 50th Anniversary Badges, stickers & a Bobblehead! TLDR: Genuine F6 bodykit, spent over $4000, should have bought an F6 to begin with... I'm now even more scared of roos. Looks F*cking Epic though!
  5. Hi all, I am now about 75% through my project of fitting late model running gear into a 1966 Mustang Coupe. Engine: Ford Barra 270t Gearbox: ZF 6 speed To share my progress along the way I have built a website to capture it all. It will be updated as the project continues. If anyone has questions I am happy to answer them. Hopefully the site will give some inspiration to others trying a conversion a little bit different or with the Fg setup. Engine and gearbox mounts are now complete so have a look. Site is www.boostedford.com
  6. I own a 2004 ba xr6t with a standard turbo. I have noticed that when my turbo spools under load (generally in 4th or 5th gear) it makes a strange surging noise. The spool does not sound constant like it should. I have no idea what the problem may be. Looking for ideas? Thanks
  7. I've got 19" 50th anniversary turbo rims that I love so much that I've bought a second set. (matching trailer) However my issue has been load rated tyres. In the factory 245/35/19 I can only get a 93rating (650kg). Local Bob Jane guy said they upped the Aspect ratio and fitted 245/40/19, 98(750) to a GS ute a while ago and haven't had any clearance issues so far. Speedo is 3.8% off. Also thinking possibly 255/40/19, 100(800kg), 5% off. Specifications for the One Tonner say max rear axle load is 1700kg so if I got to 1600kg worth of tyre rating that's enough for me. I also what the bigger numbers so I can register my trailer with a higher Load capacity. So whos done this before and had experience? How does upsizing affect acceleration, drag times, launching, handeling, cruising revs etc? Considering the same brand/pattern tyres. Also how would I find out the weight rating of the rim itself? The local parts department potatoes aren't that helpful, they couldn't even find my wheels on their system & said they must be an aftermarket option. http://www.tyresizecalculator.com/tyre-wheel-calculators/tire-size-calculator-tire-dimensions http://www.bobjane.com.au/info/load-index-speed-symbol/
  8. Hi all, reasonably new to this group but having dramas with my fg. Car is an fg with a built 698 atomic engine with about 50000km on it. It started off dropping number 5 cylinder with a fault code suggesting it was coils, changed coils same problem. Got a new computer and loaded myHi all, reasonably new to this group but having dramas with my fg. Car is an fg with a built 698 atomic engine with about 50000km on it. It started off dropping number 5 cylinder with a fault code suggesting it was coils, changed coils same problem. Got a new computer and loaded my files onto it and it was fixed... For about half an hour then dropped 5 again. After that You could start it up and it would run on sequential injection for the first 10 seconds then immediately drop number 5 again. So we decided maybe we would do the imjector harness. So we replaced that and got another new computer and loaded files onto it. At last she ran on all 6, even dynoed it and all again. Then without warning its dropped number 1 cylinder, with fault codes pointing to coil windings, swapped coils but number one has nothing. Doesn't even run on 6 when first started. That brings us to today. Starts and runs on 5 cylinders. I'm at breaking point and any help would be appreciated Cheers
  9. Hi guys. I have a question. I own an XR6 Turbo with an (a-r50 - <- wL->5) Turbo. it has recently decided to stop working, so I bought a new turbo and was told it would just bolt on. The new turbo says its (t04E - T3/t4). As we went to swap them, we realised the old turbo is water cooled as well as oil cooled. The new one isn't. Is there a way to fit the new one? and if not, is it possible to use the internals out of the new turbo for the old casing? Thanks in advance.
  10. Hi all, reasonably new to this group but having dramas with my fg. Car is an fg with a built 698 atomic engine with about 50000km on it. It started off dropping number 5 cylinder with a fault code suggesting it was coils, changed coils same problem. Got a new computer and loaded myHi all, reasonably new to this group but having dramas with my fg. Car is an fg with a built 698 atomic engine with about 50000km on it. It started off dropping number 5 cylinder with a fault code suggesting it was coils, changed coils same problem. Got a new computer and loaded my files onto it and it was fixed... For about half an hour then dropped 5 again. After that You could start it up and it would run on sequential injection for the first 10 seconds then immediately drop number 5 again. So we decided maybe we would do the imjector harness. So we replaced that and got another new computer and loaded files onto it. At last she ran on all 6, even dynoed it and all again. Then without warning its dropped number 1 cylinder, with fault codes pointing to coil windings, swapped coils but number one has nothing. Doesn't even run on 6 when first started. That brings us to today. Starts and runs on 5 cylinders. I'm at breaking point and any help would be appreciated files onto it and it was fixed... For about half an hour then dropped 5 again. After that You could start it up and it would run on sequential injection for the first 10 seconds then immediately drop number 5 again. So we decided maybe we would do the imjector harness. So we replaced that and got another new computer and loaded files onto it. At last she ran on all 6, even dynoed it and all again. Then without warning its dropped number 1 cylinder, with fault codes pointing to coil windings, swapped coils but number one has nothing. Doesn't even run on 6 when first started. That brings us to today. Starts and runs on 5 cylinders. I'm at breaking point and any help would be appreciated Cheers
  11. Damp evening + crappy road + my lead food & poor judgement = a new friend out of a chain link fence. So the bumpers cosmetically ruined, bonnets dinged in a bit, headlight is covered in scratches however not broken, a few scratches on the quarter panel & there's a newly installed leaf blower under the hood stealing all my boost. From the looks of it the piping is all mangled up but the bottom of the intercooler is also dinted up a little bit. Now I always wanted an F6 bumper and since one headlight already wants replacing I figured ill just get 2 new F6 (same as g6) ones. There are fibreglass F6 bumpers for $310 raw on ebay. QUESTIONS: Anyone experienced these bumpers? They any good? Where else should I look? Whats a paint job roughly gonna cost? Do F6 & xr & G6 all have the same fog lights? I may get a chance to pull it apart and get a closer look friday night, otherwise not till sunday. QUESTIONS: Driving with a big air leak shouldn't be a problem should it? its blowing out extra air rather than sucking in dirt so I should be right to drive the 10min to & from work? Now if there's no actual hole torn in the intercooler it should be just fine to leave in there? just slightly less efficient? If not I might pony up for a PW Stage 2 Ill go see a panel beater about fixing the bonnet, not interested in an xr8 one. I might vinyl wrap the bonnet & the roof as it gets covered in bird crap every day at work atm rather than repainting the bonnet. If I'm lucky I think the quarter panel marks may buff out.
  12. hi, im new to the to the turbo world and wondering if someone can help me, so I recently bought a 2010 fg xr6t with 58,000 k's on it, had it serviced about 1500 k's ago and within the first few days after the service noticed a change in power. turbo seems laggy less responsive. the mechanic said all he did was oil (synthetic) and air filter didn't touch anything that would change the power. had computer plugged in to see any registered faults but computer came up normal. have recently noticed a flutter in my exhaust which I'm thinking must be coils or plugs. if it was that wouldn't I notice a rough idol or something like that? always running premium fuel. I know the clutch is on the way out but wouldn't think that's the issue. been told to tighten manifold and change fuel filter and see what happens after that. if anyone has any ideas please share thanks
  13. I just got the Ba 2004 xr6 t auto second hand , with a noise in the diff , , I need to know if I can get a kit to fix it , or do I have to get full center ,, where and about how much will this cost me , Also any tips on on service , as this is my first turbo car and have always serviced and repaired my own cars ,
  14. Hello I'm about to buy either a G6ET or XR6T in about 5 months time. Considering they're the same price, which one would you choose and WHY? Also, is the G6ET slower than the XR6T to 100km/hr because the lack of LSD? From what I have gathered on other sites, there is not much of a difference.. but the only difference is racing around a track and hanging 'better skids'. - PS, I don't intend on racing around a track or skidding, so would LSD really make that much of an impact in everyday driving? I would give it a go if a Expensive Daewoo SS/GTS or anything else tried to overtake me though. Thaks
  15. Hey all, around a year ago I made a post trying to decide what was best for me in choosing an XR6T or an F6. The time has come for me to choose a car (only have $30k budget though) and the decision I've come to is the following but I need help deciding; - F6 Auto (Found one manual asking for $35k but its too much out of budget for me to get). I found one for $33k which already has had work done to it [350kw] and sitting on 100k KM and another for 28k that's stock and sitting on 130k KM). -XR6T Manual. Not in the colours I want (apart from one but the guy isn't getting back to me). Can pick one up for about $20k and might be able to convince the bank (aka my nan) that I need to spend some cash on it to make it last longer. -XR6T Auto. I'm a little stuck for wear guys. I read up that the F6's aren't even majorly that much faster than an XR6T so I'm a bit confused on what to go for. Also, they don't have the colour I'm after (apart from a Green F6 with 200k KM on it which is way too much). Advice peeps? Is the F6 really worth the extra? The guy who is selling his worked one has had it for two years and he did the work to it via a shop. Better off just getting an XR6T and doing some work to it via a shop? Cheers, George.
  16. whats everyones opinion of these on a petroleum fg mkii xr6t also can anyone recommend what size
  17. Got this information from Ford NZ if anyone was wondering 50th Anniversary FG's in New Zealand Falcon FG G6E 35 2010 = 33 2011 = 2 Falcon FG G6ET 20 2010 = 18 2011 = 2 Falcon FG XR6 171 2010 = 158 2011 = 13 Falcon FG XR6T 20 2010 = 20 Total 246 Looks like the 2011 models are very limited.
  18. Hi All I am looking at getting possibly an XR6 Turbo.... I have driven FG XR6's before but recently took 2 XR6 Turbo's for a run... Was quite impressed with the performance....... I have never owned a vehicle equiped with a Turbo and am just wondering whether there any issues with the Turbo's in terms of reliability. I'm looking at getting one with about 60-80k on the clock... Are there any issues in general with the XR6 Turbo models, e.g. possibly drivetrain issues... How long do the Turbo's normally run for, before they need to be repaired/rebuilt...???? I took 2 XR6 Turbo for a test drive recently, they were both ex-cop cars... The acceleration was good, but the decleration seem to be very harsh, and one had a bit of a knock with deceleration...I assume there could be some play in the drive train... e.g When I acelerated hard the pickup was great, but as soon asI backed of the accelerator, the decelaration was quite harsh...as if it was caught in a low gear with high revs, so when I backed of the accelerator, the deceleration was quick/very harsh...is this normal on the xr6 turbo.... I have driven standard xr6's before and never experienced this.... Is it normal that deceleration to be quite harsh on the Turbo's, or is it perhaps something to do with hows the cop cars are tuned, as the XR6 turbo's I drove were both ex-cop cars.... Thanks John :-)
  19. Hi Guys, Had a quick look through the forum but could not find the answer to my question. And that is, What tyre size (15 inch, standard steel ford rims) should I be aiming at getting that will fit the REAR of a Ba Xr6T ute? Your time and answer is appreciated Thanks
  20. Hey guys, I have a stock Bf xr6t. Im looking to upgrade the exhaust to a turbo back. Im heading towards either a plazmaman, nizpro or an xforce turbo back exhaust. I want to know which system is best for performance and sound in your opinion? If you could throw in a link to the exhaust aswell that would appreciated. Also what measurements for the dump pipe and cat will achieve what im looking for? I dont want to buy a 4" dump pipe for overkill. Thanks guys
  21. Hi all, Approximately 16 months ago, I had a zf gearbox fail in my 07 XR6t and had it taken to a mechanic who claimed to know everything about zf's and rebuilding them. 16 months later the car is still in the shop without having a single thing done to it. After all the excuses under the sun and several hundred phonecalls to him, ive finally had enough and im having it removed from where its rested in peace for last 16 months of its existance. Obviously my post is to get some advice from the forum members as to where I can take the car (somewhere that has a good reputation and knows what theyre doing) so I can get my car back and enjoy it again. I know too that the whole fuel system is going to need to be cleaned out along with the engine oil and possibly the tyres. Any info would greatly greatly be appreciated. Thanks again...
  22. Hey people,just brought a immaculate 04 BA xr6t with 85,000 on the clock one elderly lady owner for 10 grand.whats the deal with the traction control? I press the button and it doesn't seem to turn it off.seems to do nothing,can anyone shed some light on this situation? And did I get a good deal?
  23. G'day everyone I have recently traded my 09 FG F6 manual for a 11 FG XR6T auto ute and was wondering if any could tell me if the XR will run the boost and oil temp gauges if I performed a dash conversion any experience?? Cheers in advance!!
  24. hii im having an issue with my ba xr6 turbo, during low boost the car boosts fine, when boost is higher there is a loss in in power, and it stutters, like there isnt enough fuel going to the engine, boost cuts than back in real quick after boosting for a long period sometimes the engine idle gets real rough for a minute or two than goes back to normal, when its rough idle it seems like all the cylinders aren't firing up, I thought the problem may be todo with spark plug coil leads etcc.. but it only ever EVER does it after long period of high boost.. im thinking it might be valve springs?? any other suggestions??? cheers FORD LOVERS
  25. Hi Guys, My bonnet and front bumper has been pelted with stone chips from highway use so I'm looking to get it fixed. While I'm going to the trouble I would like ot delve into getting a bulge bonnet and the fpv looking front bumper onto my 2010 XR50T. Has anyone does this before? I imagine I would need: FG FPV from bumper FG falcon (not xr) front headlights FG FPV bonnet Then I would need to get it painted the same blue. Where do you recomend I get these parts from? I had seen somewher previously that forum had a group buy on xr bonnets that had a custom bulge that I really did like but havn't been able to find it since! If I were to go down the fpv looking path, would you reccomend that I get the fpv side skirts and rear bumper? Are they different? Is there anything else that I need to take into account? Thanks. Toby
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