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Showing results for tags 'turbo'.
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Hey, New to the forum. Just purchased a Mk1 BF Typhoon on Petroleum grey and while she is definitely a nice car and drives well...When I was test driving her the boost gauge doesnt go up all that much. Not that I was exactly flooring it... Its done appox 130000k and looks to be in great condition with all service records (Brembo calipers could do with a repaint!) Just asking what to expect in regards to the boost gauge and my driving, thanks. (when I was taking off at the lights I had to really give it stick just for it to move to a quarter, which it did quite effortlessly)
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Ok I’ve read page after page after page.... heres where it starts.... bought a ba xr6 turbo Automatic and it came with a x3 flash device that has custom tunes, base 4-5 psi - 8psi - 10psi. Car drives great no weird noises or anything of the like. The problem I’m having is to do with a overboost/limiter issue. This is the 10psi tune. Car accelerates great but once it hits the 10psi mark it either goes to 12psi or it hits 9-10 and it’s like a rev limit and the exhaust makes an almost ‘flame’ sound? And the boost gauge flickers up and down 1psi. Mostly this happens with WOT. Especially does it when just in Drive and going WOT, not so bad in sport mode because I can shift before it gets to the almost misfire stage and goes weird. Most times regardless of in drive or sports mode it’s around 4000rpm. Sometimes though in drive and sports mode it will rev out and hit boost perfectly and have no issues but it’s very short lived and then it’s back to ‘missing’ 2 minutes later. Now when I put it back to stock it hits 5 psi steady as can be at WOT but as it hits 5000-5500rpm it makes the same weird flame limiter noise. Heres what I’ve tried. •New plugs gapped to 7.5 •New boost control solenoid •Clean throttle body •Tighten all hoses that I can access •Run turbo hose straight to wastegate (hits 5-6psi and goes great •Disconnect battery for 10 minutes and then drive WOT New coil packs will be here by the end of the week as there about the last thing I can think of that I can do myself, there still originals and car has done 170,000ks. So if anyone can help me that would be AWESOME! I’ve read so many threads that seem to be my problem and they either never come back with the solution or I’ve tried what they’ve done to no avail.
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Hi I know the whole 'mail order tune' idea is frowned upon mostly but I'm not looking to gain heaps nor continue to pursue power, but if anyone has a 10psi tune for a stock ba xr6T that that goes on a SCT X3 they could share I'd be really greatful! Thanks guys/girls
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HI, I have a question which noone including google is not able to answer. Torque Management or Torque reduction. Is it active in the pcm on a 02 ba running a BTR trans. If so, how does it measure torque output?
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Hey lads Happy new year soon! But car parts is life lol. So I am in dire need for new rear rotors and brake pads all round as I'm getting heavy shudder, I took it into a mechanic who put front dba t3 rotors on and new crap repco brake pads all round and have been back 4 times to try and figure out why the shudder. I got the rear stock brembo rotors machined, no help. I gave up on mechanics and decided just to do things myself. I changed them out with another set of second hand rotors, no go too. So I'm just going to change them out with some new DBA t3 rear rotors and brake pads all round and see if that fixes it. However I've done some research on brake pads and HOLY sh*t there is a lot to choose from! So my question is to all the barra gods out there is, where should I start??? I'm heavy on the brakes often but no track days as of yet and I hate hate hate brake dust!!! I have learnt ceramic is the way to go for little brake waste and am willing to pay a bit extra to get good performance with no rim muck........ I'm in Brisbane, has anyone had any dealings with Brakes direct? or know anywhere that does rotors and brake pads at a reasonable price? P.s. I've got 4 pot brembo fronts and 1 pot OEM rear. Cheers
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Hey, I have a BA mk2 turbo and I noticed about a month ago the turbo was fluttering when I drove it hard. The car HAD just the factory diverter valve installed. So I assumed this was on the way out (being a 2004 car) and I bought an atmospheric BOV for the sound and to hopefully stop the fluttering. The BOV is nothing special, just a $40 one off eBay that said it was compatible with my car. I put it on yesterday and no matter how I adjust the spring, under high boost, the turbo will flutter. This is the part that confuses me when I sit at 1700 revs I can hear the BOV is open no matter how stiff or soft the spring is but then I also assume it isn't opening enough when I come off the throttle, pushing air back into the turbo and making it flutter. The flutter only occurs when I floor it. Otherwise the bov will vent correctly. So I was wondering; is the issue something like the bov not being wide enough? did I jump the gun on assuming the turbo flutter was an issue? (I've heard some cars just do it) should I try a different spring and lubricate the piston of the bov? Or just bite the bullet and get a decent one? Any help would be appreciated, cheers
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G'day guys, I have MKII FG XR6 Turbo with 48000km on the clock. I have recently purchased a MKII F6 cluster to install but it has much higher km (200+) and I have looked high and low for someone to adjust the km for me but have had no luck. Hoping one of you guys can point me in the right direction. Cheers, Mo
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Hello all, I just picked up a 2009 G6E Turbo for a great deal. 145k on the clock and is in great condition mechanically, paint needs some TLC and interior is in really good condition. Just put 4 new tyres (cheapos for now) on her and all new super pro diff bushings, needed one tyre and bushing for RWC so got all done while it was there. Apart from that seems stock. I knew the barra motors were a beast but I was really surprised how quick it was. Has been a while since I had a turbo car used to own a 220fwkw GT starlet heavily set up for the track, but that was nearly 6 years ago as I got into motorcycles, so I am looking forward to modifying this new beast as a express daily/motorcycle mover. Current future mods plans in order of purchase unless someone changes my mind. tow ball (need to transport motorcycles hence ute in photo which I will be selling) Whiteline front and rear sway bars Stage 1 upgrade with Real Dyno here in Bris and their Trans cooler upgraded to stop the ZF milkshake Shockworks coilovers (seem to be the best option for the money and Aussie built is nice) maybe some wheels I would like a set of work meisters S1 Just wanted to say Hi and post some pics, looks like a great friendly forum. would love to hear some feedback on the mods or other ideas. Plan on doing some test and tune nights and maybe some happy laps etc. Goal would be 300+rwkw and 11s
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Hello, Ok so I purchased a Nizpro Big FMIC kit from a fella from this site last week. The plan is to put it on as well as other mods in the future (I.e xspurt 1000cc injectors, intake muffler delete, herrod CAI, and a Xforce HF Cat and Dump) end goal looking for the 300+rwkw mark and 11s and even maybe e85, max out the stock turbo. However I only have the intercooler so far, waiting to save up for the rest, I 100% plan to get all tuned with a sct x4, once I get injectors/HF Cat etc but further down the track. My question is, will I do any harm if I start putting on the Intercooler and do the intake stuff without a tune?, I understand I will not get any real power increases, but as I don't get much free time, and any free time I would love to jump on the job of putting the IC kit on, say this weekend, the rest at a later date. But is this ok without the tune? will it do any damage? is it safe to do so? I drive the car as my daily. Any help or input would be appreciated. Ben
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Wtb a zf turbo gearbox in Sydney , preferably low kms
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Hi guys wondering if a (bf typhoon manual ecu) work in a ba xr6turbo
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Hi all, Apologies if something already exists like this, but weeks of reading I have come across nothing dedicated and only few posts of small relevance scattered through numerous threads Plenty of people seem to be going down the precision turbo pathway with their falcons. However, many threads have posts finishing early 2015. Seems that a huge amount of speculation revolves around the longevity of the precision units compared to the GTX competition. Regardless, many reputable tuners are loving the results and are continuing to recommend precision turbos. Wanted to start this thread in the hopes that people have been running them for a number of years/km's could put their input into their experiences with precision units in regards to reliability, how long they have lasted and their thoughts compared to other turbos they've run. Was thinking something like the following format: Unit: PTE 6466 Generation: Gen 2 Time/Km's Since Install: 15,000 Power/Boost Running: 400RWK on 98, 15 psi Other Turbo's Owned: Factory GT3576 Thoughts/Issues: etc etc Cheers for any input!
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Folks, looking for recommendations for good transmission repair (or replace) mechanic in Sydney. 2006 BF turbo with 114k on it, terrible when cold, takes off ok, then when it "takes up", feels like it slips, then often a nasty clonk when going into gear. Settles down when warm but still not 100%. Have visited dealer 3 times, changed oil, done software, reset but same result. Recommended replace with refurb, 6k drive in drive out but thought I'd check the traps first as I reckon that's probably the quick and easy fix which I understand however reckon going direct to trans expert might save a few bucks.
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Hey lads So tax time is has arrived! :D and I'm very bored with stock power! So I'm getting a X-force 4inch dump and high flow cats put on for $1500 and straight after I'll be getting it tuned. Prices for a SCT flash tune Xcal4 or X4 I'm not to sure of the name of it was $2200 with 3 custom tunes, he was also saying another option was a direct file remap for $1650 but I've been told they're sh*t so wont be doing that. Also I can get a boost controller high revs comp for $1100 but is that worth getting??? I'm pretty sure he was saying that option adds so I can change the preset tune on the fly instead of having to stop and I <3 Bananas around to change presets. The quotes were from RPM dyno and performance in Morayfield, Brisbane. Has anyone had any dealing with these guys??? or can recommend anyone better??? his sales pitch was that he does a full custom tune that takes two days. Also if I have enough cash I would like to get injectors which he priced at $1000 for 1000cc injectors. Any advice would be much appreciated! Cheers
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Hi everyone! I'm wondering if anyone can give me some help with my car. I have recently developed a problem with my transmission.. so when I turn on to a highway and I'm driving to get to the speed limit of 110 my car won't change gears passed 80km it just revs out like its stuck in 1st or 2nd gear I then have to use sequential mode to change my gear manually and then it's right.. this happens everyday but when I'm on a road that has a lot of corners and the speed limit is 100km the car shifts perfectly without any of the problems.. the trans fluid is fine I've had it checked, I've replaced my battery and throttle position sensor.. I've got got codes of u2196 & u2197. Please help!! ?
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Hi fellow members, I am in a spot of bother. I have just bought a second hand bf turbo ute and I have driven it 300kms and now it is blowing smoke out the exhaust and has a misfire on 6. local mechanic looked at it and is nearly certain it's a hole in the piston. whats the best option for me to do? Should I pull the head off and confirm it is and the. Look for a short motor to re-build it with or look for a exchange motor. any advice would be much appreciated. Cheers alex.
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Hey Guys, I've recently come across a problem with having no boost. Gauge says I have good VAC but when I put my foot down it hits 0 on the gauge and stays there. When this is happening all that can be heard is an air rushing noise. I was wondering if anyone else has had similar problems? and where the best place to start would be? Cheers
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Hi Guys, Been a while since I've posted but loving the car so far, retune will happen mid-year hopefully but until then I'm trying to get it up to scratch in every other way. My front end is apart as I realised one of the factory hot pipes (rubber) has perished due to oil (see:little splits/cracks hardening etc.) so a guy locally had a full factory second hand set up on gumtree so I bought the lot. Sadly he recently lost his car due to mistaken identity (jerks). Gave me a lot of good info as his BF Turbo was in pristine condition. Now I have the entire front end of the car apart/exposed, are there any items people would recommend changing/checking whilst I'm here? I've heard the Boost control solenoid usually could use a clean or check and I'm generally going to check all the hoses and bolts that I can. Key fact here is that I am still able to get very cheap parts and things that would normally be very expensive I may have the ability to still get at a good price(aftermarket). Loved that Ford still sell the duct (oversized rubber rad hose) for new @ $320 I can post pics of how apart I've got it if anyone would like me to. cheers. Nathan
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Hi Guys, As the title states I'm hoping someone on here can answer a few questions about the conversion I'm about to undertake on my BF wagon. I've already purchased a wrecked BF turbo 6speed manual ute from the auctions to donate engine, diff and other bits and pieces into the goon, note I still want to retain the btr not the manual tranny. The main problem I've got is what PCM can I use in the goon? I talked to the tuner I'll be taking it to after the conversion is finished and he told me to use the turbo computer as it obviously has the ability to control the wastegate, and I also noticed 2 relays in the fusebox for controlling thermo's rather than the single relay in the goon. I've emailed someone regarding flashing the ute pcm to hopefully control the btr but apparently can't be done. So I asked if I could use the PCM out of a 6speed auto, which apparently the answer is no as well. Which leads me to thinking I have to use the PCM out of a BA, but from what I understand the BA only uses 1 knock sensor instead of 2 in the BF (possibly other features different as well) So am I better to use the BA PCM, or use the current NA PCM in the goon with aftermarket boost control or something else? If the BA PCM is the way to go will it be able to be succesfully coded to the bf bcm/icc? Hope this all makes sense, just want to get this all sorted before I start pulling the goon apart as its my work car. TIA, Dean
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So I'm Pimping out the rear section of my twin exhaust from the axle back by sending it to either side of the ute. Q: As I'm removing the rear muffler, what/how many mufflers should I use to make it quiet again, preferably quieter. (space constrained) http://www.performanceexhaust.com.au/~2320 http://www.performanceexhaust.com.au/p/15-LONG-X-2.5-DIAMETER-MILD-STEEL-UNIVERSAL-HOTDOG/HD15250P-P - 2x of the oval mufflers have the same internal volume as the existing twin muffler so would that produce the same sound output? - Or I could fit twice as many hot dogs. How many hot dogs would it take for equal silencing as one oval muffler? - Do these 2 types work the same or differently? I don't know the sciences of mufflers other than I want straight through unrestricted pipes, no baffles or 1" Varex chokers thank you. Current setup is venom 4" dump & Cat into Pacemaker twin 2.5". While it sounds nice I want it to go louder with some sort of bi-modal/valve setup as I leave home in the mornings while the family is still asleep. Plan is unbolt the rear section above the axle & go from there, running one pipe straight up under the tray and through the rear tailgate. The other one will go up and across just behind the diff then out the opposite side of the tray, both straight pipe. Trick is once they get up under the tray ill put a y-pipe & butterfly valve to a 2nd (& 4th) pipe running on the other side of the trays main beams which will be full of mufflers for silence. Ill be moving the reversing lights, get half size break/blinkers & re-route some wiring. Also try & go Quad 4" tips but may have to settle for Quad 3.5" Between toolbox-Beam I have 5" tight so 4" wide mufflers at a maximum.
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Hey guys first time posting been researching into an XR6 turbo conversion for about 6 months or so and I've decided to go ahead with the project but have run into some issues/questions that need addressing before I mindlessly slap sh*t on an N/A motor expecting everything to be rainbows and roses. Currently I've bought - FG F6 intake manifold - Fuel rail - FPR - F6 Injectors - Throttle body - Map sensor - GT3576 - Intercooler and all piping including cross over and throttle body pipe I still need a fg exhaust manifold and dump pipe but is there anything else I need to get ? I'm quite certain I'm missing some parts that I've seemed to skip over. what I'd also like to know is there are some vacuum lines on the intake manifold I'm not sure about. I do know one of the hoses is connected to the brake booster but I don't know what the other 2 vacuum lines are for. One being next to the brake booster vacuum line and the other being on the opposite side of where the map sensor is. If anyone could at least help me with one of these questions that would be awesome. Cheers
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Hi there Forum I am wanting to upgrade my plumbing from the turbo through to the throttle body keeping the original intercooler. First question is are the factory fitted intercooler good for the job as I am not chasing more power, I just want to install a pressured side of the inlet that is good quality, of metal construction, that has good seals between the different parts and has good quality flexible joiners that will not leak. My aim is to reduce inlet noise and to know that I will not be chasing leaks in the pressured side of the system. The car is a 2010 build and I am suspicious of the plastic bits, the age of them and how well they fit together. Does any one know of an after market kit that will do the job ? Any feedback appreciated. Cheers Lewis
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Hi Guys, Joined the club today thanks to Clint at Profil Mods included HD Valve Springs, 1000cc Injectors 12psi Gate Flapper Mod Hi Flow Cat In Tank Fuel Pump PW Stage 2 Cooler ZF Tune 323rwkw on 98 Octane and 348rwkw on E85. Drove it home with a big grin on my face!
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Picked up my car today from Joe at CMS with the above figures. I have installed the following mods to achieve that power: Aftermarket valve springs 460 Walbro in-tank fuel pump 62lb injectors Xcal4 Plazmaman 1000hp intercooler w/ 2.5 inch hot side piping Plazmaman 4inch intake racebox Process West throttle body relocation w/ 3inch cold side piping Plazmaman plumbed back BOV Turbosmart 12psi internal actuator Intune turbo oil feed line and filter Battery relocated to the boot The car has just over 100,000km. I've attached a few pics below.
