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Showing results for tags 'turbo'.
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Hi all, I have an 04 RTV auto ute and an 04 XR6 turbo auto sedan. I'm putting the engine, transmission and dash including ICC and steering column from the turbo sedan into the ute. As I'll have the turbo PCM, ICC and steering column including key barrel should the car start and run or will the BCM shut the show down? Should I also swap the BCM from the sedan into the ute? Theoretically it should then start and run? Any issues with having the sedan BCM in a ute? Engine is out and on the floor, FG cams, Atomic springs, 440cc injectors and Hypergear ATR45 turbo hoping for 300kw will post pics once done.
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Hi guys, After filtering through all the misfire related topics and find very few threads with actual resolutions I thought I'd start a new one. Basically my 09 FG G6e turbo started misfiring at WOT when at the strip the other night. 400rwkw running E85 to give an idea of mod level. The thing had done it before, when it did I took it back to the tuner where it got a service and retune and came out happy as. Has been running sweet for about 6 months now but the problem has returned and is far worse. Essentially when I am on hard boost it sounds like it has a very bad misfire and no power obviously. Originally it was just under WOT but on the way back from the track it got worse, occasionally misfiring while.cruising at 100kph and but the time I got home (100km later) struggling to idle without misfiring. With slight throttle it runs smooth as so I'm thinking it has to do with ignition as the extra voltage with slight throttle will help spark but as soon as any fuel or boost is dumped into the engine it misfires again. I am yet to talk to my tuner (will today) but will update this post, through to resolution so hopefully it can help out the next victim. Keen to here any ideas or similar stories. Cheers, Joel
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Just looking for some advice purchased a 2010 G6e turbo 2 months ago have recently heard a knock / clunk noise coming from the rear end only on take off ( sometimes) just one knock it's not continuous any idea on the possibility of issue.
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Hey lads and ladies (maybe) So I've met my first power goal of 500hp and am in need of a new clutch very soon as I only have the stock FG F6 one. Any advice on clutches I should be considering???? my next power goal will be the 700hp mark so want something that's not going to clap out and take a beating but still relatively light for city driving. My mate will be putting the EXEDY DEVIL CLUTCH (ceramic and organic) in his XR6T which is pushing 700hp and he said he'll be able to get this for cheap through the business for me. Has anyone got any experience with EXEDY??? if so any info would be much appreciated and prices etc..... also any advice on mechanics in Brisbane to do the labour. Cheers Chad
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Hi guys, I not long brought a mk2 fg xr6 turbo and have a problem with the engine light.. The car has upgraded turbo, full exhaust, intercooler ect. It's making 366rwkw Before I brought the car, all the work and tune got done at horsepower factory and apparently right after the tune the engine light came up. The previous owner was told to change coils and plugs (20,000ks ago), he told me it fixed the problem for a while then it came back up again. The car was sold with me knowing about the light and how it didn't affect the car at all. Few months down the track the engine light will now flash and run horrible for 5 seconds then good again with the engine light staying lit. Its throwing codes P0301, 302, 303, 306 and 316, so I replaced coils and plugs along with regapping them to 0.8mm and it still hasn't helped at all. I just want to know if anyone has had a similar issue in the past as I dont want to waste money on parts that dont need replacing. The car is only 60,000 ks old but does still have the stock vavle springs.. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, cheers.
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Hi everyone, I’m new to this forum, lifetime ford owner, paraplegic hoon and just recently Xr6 turbo owner! I’ve just bought a 2004 Xr6 turbo with 190,000 km’s on the clock, it’s been well maintained and feels and sounds healthy. There are things I replace on any car I buy like air filter, plugs, coil pack etc but I want to know what everyone on this forum recommends I do to the car. I did see on another forum they said something about using genuine coil packs and lubing the Wastegate?? Any help would be much apreciated??
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ba xr6t is very hard to get into gears when cold, gearbox sometimes has a slit grinding nose when I push the clutch in and it shakes the middle of the car and grinds a little bit but once warm normally drives find. Has had a new master cylinder has been bled a few months ago. also sometimes when starting up when even warmed up wont always turn over. sometimes aswell the reverse lights don't work but only seem not to work when I can actually get the car into gear.
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Hi there needing some knowledge and advice, I've got a 2003 ford ba xr6 turbo auto. I've owned it for around 2 and a half years now and it's always had problems, biggest one is when you put your foot down and hold boost for more than 3 or for seconds it starts to shudder really bad and go into like a limp or safety mode and wants to conk out, only way to stop it doing it is to feather the accelerator numerous times then goes back to normal. No engine lights come up or anything of that sort. I had the spark plugs and Coils changed when I first got it, changed the wastegate, that fixed it for a coupe days then went back to sh*t, changed the wastegate solenoid came good for a few days then went to sh*t again, it started popping and backfiring and over boosting so I changed both map sensors helped it a fair amount but still pops and misses under heavy load and goes into that safety mode again when I hold boost. Really need help and advice on what It could be. Maybe the computer needs a tune or something? Maybe the wastegate flapper isn't opening fully.? It's all stock standard besides a rear muffler delete.. If anyone can help it'd be much appreciated
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Hey guys, ive got a stock 2007 bf mk2 xr6 turbo and want to hit around the 260-270rwkw mark.. what exhaust would you use for a custom tune? Would xforce twin 2.5" from the cat back be enough? Thanks.. any other mods advice would be great.. cheers.
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Hi, I have installed Snow Performance water/meth injection on my RTV with XR6 Turbo conversion. The reason I have installed it is because I don't want to install a larger than stock intercooler and I am using it to cool the intake charge. When I get it tuned again (currently 260kw with 2nd gear pulls, have since installed decent driveshaft and boost controller) it will be tuned without taking the water/meth into account so if I have a failure with the kit I don't toast my engine. At the moment I am just running straight water, once I have it tuned and switch the kit on what can I expect if I were to do 50/50 water meth instead? I imagine it will then be running rich with the extra fuel, will this be a problem? Flames out exhaust? Could I expect my intake charge to be significantly cooler? I would like to take it to the strip for a laugh so would do meth if it could be an advantage. What do you think?
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Hi guys, Turbo RTV running well. Getting heat soak (bullbar will be restricting airflow quite a bit) and boost spike on gear shift so I am making a piece of pipe to install in the I/c outlet piping which I can fit water injection and a boost limiting valve to. I am running the standard cooler from what I am told is off a Typhoon. Is there any difference in the outlet pipe size from a Typhoon to a normal XRT? If someone could let me know what the I/d of the outlet is that would save me pulling it off and on just to buy some pipe. Is my daily so if I could get pipe today that would be a top job for the weekend. Thanks guys
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I'm looking at getting a xr6 turbo, preferably 06 and upwards but still the ba/bf body, I want to get 500-550hp to the wheels but I dont know about a couple things and hope some of you know and can help me, 1. I've heard the bf 06 and onwards blocks are the typhoon blocks and are the stronger ones and are better to use? 2. Is the bf or fg engine better? Is the head different on the fg or what are the differences between the bf and fg block and head. 3. Can you put a t5 manual trans on a fg turbo engine? Then put that in the ba/bf body. 4. Any recommendations for the following parts? - forged pistons and rods to handle 800hp+ Valves and valve springs -what bottom end stuff like bearings ect would suit this kind of power? - could a fg head go onto the bf "typhoon block? Much appreciate any advice or comments that can answer these questions!!
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I have a 2008 fg xr6 turbo at the dyno tuners however have come across an issue they or other dyno tuners havent seen before. The car is going to 17psi on the dyno However any more psi over 17 and the car loses communication and dies on the dyno and launches forward we are trying to achieve 20+ psi, has anybody else come across this issue? Any help would be appreciated. Thankyou
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I have a 2008 fg xr6 turbo at the dyno tuners however have come across an issue they or other dyno tuners havent seen before. The car is going to 17psi on the dyno However any more psi over 17 and the car loses communication and dies on the dyno and launches forward we are trying to achieve 20+ psi, has anybody else come across this issue? Any help would be appreciated. Thankyou
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Hi I’m just wondering what turbos come out on the Barra motors like what there names are and what models they come out on and how many there are I’ve been told 4 but only know the ba I have a ba with 3540 now wanting to know the difference I have looked them up but I get a lot of different story’s
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Hi fellow boosted ford folk. So I have noticed factory boot lip on my G6ET is lifting at the far edges, to the point now I think it might rip off on my next highway trip. I was wondering if anyone has had this and how they rectified it? my main questions are as such; what is the best way to remove it so I can re attached. I was thinking some fishing line back and forward between the tape and the boot? but I'm sure there might be a better way. Is it held on by any screws? or is it the double sided looking tape/silicon stuff I can see under there it? What is the material that is holding it down? it looks like either double sided tape or even a silicon type adhesive, I want to be sure I buy the correct stuff to re-attach. Is there some sort of better material to hold it down to stop it lifting again? anyone had success with a particular product? any help would be very appreciated, thanks in advance Ben
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Looking all over but cant find any aftermarket boot garnishes without the ford logo.. can anyone please point me in the right direction or make any suggestions. Anything will be much appreciated cheers https://www.google.com.au/search?q=fg+falcon+boot+garnish&client=ms-android-telstra-au&prmd=isvn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjureKWi-ncAhWJurwKHVNUD7AQ_AUIESgB&biw=360&bih=612#imgrc=HI6WJxM1tCostM: So this but w/o the ford logo Will the BA/BF garnish fit??
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This may need to go to the modification & workshop section. sorry. Hi everyone. First post but I've been a long time lurker. I'm a proud owner of a MKI BF XR6 turbo and am planning a few budget mods. I welcome a few hard opinions and ideas from you guys to see if I'm close to the right track and I've got a few questions too. The car is going to be kept fairly sleeper by the looks of it. First a bit about the car. 144,000km, Second owner and was owned by a middle aged couple with kids. The guys wife mainly drove the car and I'd be surprised if it's ever popped a skid. the car has a build date of 29 may (05/06) so there is a chance it has the upgraded bottom end after the 06/06 turbos. It doesn't really make a difference for my situation anyway. I've got new genuine spark plugs and coils and an earls oil line for the turbo. transmission and diff are serviced. Anyway I've priced the total build to about $2700-$3000 and this should hopefully net me around 280-310ish RWKW which is my goal... we'll see. Parts include Exhaust: $180 4inch 100cell Venom catalytic converter - welded in place of the stock. Option to straight pipe middle muffler either from a shop or $250 venom bolt on from ebay. The catalytic converter should be enough on it's own but that cat with straight pipes would be pretty nice. Standard dump. Induction: K&N panel filter, XR8 snorkel $80 from eBay and a second pipe from the bottom of the airbox that I'll make myself. eBay intercooler $150-$180... I know I know they are pretty rubbish and I'll get heat soak pretty quickly but worst case I'll upgrade it later on and I've lost $150 and a touch up tune, not the end of the world. I'm tempted to keep the stock one but it's seen better days. Stage 1 tune offered by a few tuners $2300 and includes 1000cc injectors, spark plug gap, cooler thermostat, custom tune and a few other things) So that's about $2700-$3000. And then maybe: Fuel pump - Walbro 255 for $160 valve springs $850 - although they are upgraded from the BA motor the car has done a few km's I'm thinking of doing this a bit later on. Plazmaman stage 2 intercooler for $1400 with under battery intake All in all these modifications are there to supplement the stage one, I can't justify spending a quoted "$7500" for a stage 2 on a car that is worth around the same amount. I'd rather put that money towards a stock F6. If I can pull something decent from this I've successfully built a quick(er) 6 speed ZF falcon for around 10 grand. I'm in WA for now. Couple of questions So honest opinions... is it total crap? call me what you like but from all the research I've done this should get me close to 280-310rwkw. I know a lot of people will say do it right or not at all but I'd rather pick up the tools, take a challenge and do it on the cheap with a few small compromises. Would I get away with not doing the valve springs at least for now? I've been told a 5 inch cat would be better but I figure without doing more exhaust work there's no point, this should give a decent improvement over stock. I can get a 5 inch bolt on for $650 Are there better inexpensive intercooler options? Any ideas or experience. Thanks for reading.
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Hi guys, new here. I'm doing a FG long block into BA conversion also a t5 to t56. The engine harness is for a ZF 6 speed auto, but my BA ECU is tuned for a t5 manual. Will it be okay to run with the automatic connections taped up? Or will the Canbus wiring cause trouble?
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Hey guy, I have a 07 bf xr6t auto stock apart from hotside piping, cooler and tune from previous owner. I recently replaced the rubber joiner on throttle body with silicone hose that stopped boost leak and revs issue. I now however have what seems like an intermittent boost leak from turbo side. Still holds boost but seems to lag heaps down low and I can hear air gushing out. It will only last about 5-10 minutes after start up and then comes good and drives fine. Turn the car off for 10 minutes then start back up I get same issue again which then goes away within a few minutes. Ive checked all piping, vac lines, clamps and anything that could be loose, everything seems to be sweet. Any help appreciated. Cheers!
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So ill start off with our car "XR6 Turbo" BF with an FG setup and over 440 rwkws was written off in an accident I had, now we have just acquired a rare XR6 NA with the ZF and in Chromaflair (Fantasy) with apparently 1000 made. We will put most of the running gear into this new car and start all over again. Each time we do some mods ill keep adding pictures of the build and if I run into any issues I'm sure this site and friends could help me. This is going to be one epic run and long process but where committed. Thanks Let the build begin
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Hi there needing some knowledge and advice, I've got a 2003 ford ba xr6 turbo auto. I've owned it for around 2 and a half years now and it's always had problems, biggest one is when you put your foot down and hold boost for more than 3 or for seconds it starts to shudder really bad and go into like a limp or safety mode and wants to conk out, only way to stop it doing it is to feather the accelerator numerous times then goes back to normal. No engine lights come up or anything of that sort. I had the spark plugs and Coils changed when I first got it, changed the wastegate, that fixed it for a coupe days then went back to sh*t, changed the wastegate solenoid came good for a few days then went to sh*t again, it started popping and backfiring and over boosting so I changed both map sensors helped it a fair amount but still pops and misses under heavy load and goes into that safety mode again when I hold boost. Really need help and advice on what It could be. Maybe the computer needs a tune or something? Maybe the wastegate flapper isn't opening fully.? It's all stock standard besides a rear muffler delete.. If anyone can help it'd be much appreciated
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BA ICC Unit issue, Stereo dropped out and aircon whilst driving and won't turn on or work when manually try to turn on ICC,blank screen and still no fan or aircon.... Things to check or anything suggested to rectify the problem?
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Hi all dont crucify me if its already been asked but im having issues and im stumped as to why . 2007 xr6 turbo manual bf ive recently changed water pump , done new hoses ,changed temp sensor ,thermostat and changed and flushed cooolant 2 times now . And today I even went out of my way to let the car run with the filler bottle cap off and long story short the car runs considered normal temps when the cap is off (just above quarter) and every so often spikes up and does the usual thermo fans kick in cools it down then back to normal thermo fans shut off . But when the filler cap is then placed back on the filler bottle temps spike after maybe 2-3 mins thermo fans kick in and its an endless battle to run car colder and the thermo fans never turn off as its running "hot" never gets to half way but its not normal for this car . I have no clue as to why and how its doing it any advice/help greatly appreciated.
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Looking to buy a high mount manifold for my awd xr6 sedan. Any one on here know some one that has one laying about.
