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Hi Guys, I'm fairly new to this page and fairly new to fords. I bought my first ford, Ford XR6 FG Upgrade Limited Edition 2011 model, off of my mate beginning of this year. I recently started to hear a rattle noise from my car each time I accelerated when I was in town house area but wouldn't hear the noise much in an open freeway/motorway. The mechanic told me that the muffler has collapsed and that I need to change the muffler, now I'm not too smart on cars and how things work, I just wanted to ask, the muffler, is that held on by bolts (mechanic said so) or is that welded on? and if it is held on by bolts, would I be able to change it on my own ? And also is it possible to just buy a muffler ?

Hi all, I really need some assistance please (FYI I am not a mechanical car person at all).  Having some kind of power/electrical/battery/fuse/connection issue with my 08 FG xr6 turbo.  Let me run you through what has happened. Sunday morning I go to start the car and click, click, click with ‘Vehicle immobilised’ on the screen. Yes I know this generally means dead battery and to get a new one.  So I do and still does the same thing. Try a heap of different things throughout Sunday. (Disconnect battery for different periods, lock and unlock car etc etc) but to no avail (randomly gt different codes (vehicle immobilised, comms error, transmission not in park and it’s a manual).  Late Sunday afternoon when trying again accessories come on (as they had previously) but when turning ignition it just dies completely.  Then disconnect for a while, try again and dies completely again. Later I try charging the battery in case the new one was a dud, but it makes no difference. Then I tried charging the battery over Sunday night.  Monday morning before work try again, get accessories (as previously had) and get the ‘transmission not in park’ message.  Try ignition and dies completely again. Then I get home from work and try again and get basically no power at all. No accessories, keys don’t open or lock car, no inside lights when opening the door. Only faint sign of power is the boost gauge vaguely flickering in the on position and the air bag light being on when off. A mate came round and measured the battery and it is putting out the 13 volts so I don’t think it is the battery itself (plus it is new).  At some point sufficient power is not getting to the car. If anyone has any idea your feedback would be great? Really frustrating!

Hi all can anyone help out, ive noticed my thermo fans are not coming on like they used to after I drive. The car is not tuned I have replaced the thermostat and topped up with coolant but my temp always sits at half way never any lower. Car is fully stock any ideas? Please help

Just wondering if anyone can shed some light on what this could have been. Stock standard 2012 FG XR6T MKII, ZF auto, 38,000KM Rolling over a give way into a 100kph zone I floored it and when it shifted into second gear there was a very very loud bang / thud from the gearbox. It continued to drive fine, so slowed down and floored it again but this time it shifted fine into second, and hasn't done it since. I'm wondering if I should service the transmission, its only done 38,000KM but is 5 year old oil in there?

Hey guys, appoligies in advance if a similar previous thread already exists if so please redirect me. Im in the process of up grading my turbo set up on my fg, previous setup was a gtx4088 on a high mount 6boost manifold and clearence was pretty tight as you can see in the photos. Now I'm gonna to upgrade to a gtx47 and was wondering if anyone has put a turbo similar in size with roughly the same setup and if you had any clearence issues with the head or bonnet or strut tower. Any my info or photos would be mint. thanks in advance

G'day guys, Im relatively new to this forum to which I have also just purchased a FG Mk1 XR6T Ute. I'm wanting to learn how to mod my car and do different things, and work out what aftermarket parts my ute has (which I will ask in the appropriate sections). What I wanted to ask was, has anyone come up with some creative locations in putting different gauges within a ute or sedan (preferably a FG). If anyone has any pics and would like to post them in this thread, that would be greatly appreciated. The only reason I am wanting to put gauges in is the fact the last person who owned the ute has done some mods, and the mods are having an effect with the boost allowing it to spike quiet often. Cheers, Ethan

I have a Green FG XR6T ute with standard 17inch rims. Time to upgrade, due to rough roads around home I will stick to 18's. Which Option 18x8 Versus Monza, 45 offset, Sumitomo 245.40.18 tyres 18x9 front, 18x10 rear Versus Raceforge Sumitomo 245.40.18 front 265.35.18 rear (offset between 20-35) Second option is an all black wheel, first is black with polished rivet look. I would hope the second option would help hide the huge gap wheel to guard at back of ute? Extra $500. Ideas? Opinions? Thanks

Fellas, Had me middle muffler removed last week and soon right after popped back in to swap out the rear for a Magnaflow for I think it was a 4 x 9" because it was still rather quiet for my taste. Both made a nice note, with just the middle removed I liked it's half raspy, half deep tone more then the straight deep punch of the MF, but the MF gave a much more noticeable and satisfying pop and crackle on lift off but the "fart" on gear change is considerably quieter and neither droned. Now I'm probably deaf but I still find it rather quiet lol. So was after some accounts on who has run their's straight through as that's what I'm contemplating next. I think it'll be too raspy? Slap on a hotdog so it's not so raspy? Oh and I had the work done at Rob Bliss at Geebung BTW. Great blokes, highly recommend them. Called in rather late on a Friday arvo, no probz. Popped in the Monday after, no probz, had it done in a jiffy. Aaron, I think was the bloke's name. Recommended the Magnaflow and how it'd sound, was spot on. Thanks

Anyone had diff mount bolts fail? Not the centre bolt but the side? Would it be easier to drop the cradle or the fuel tank to replace?

Guys Tossing up what to do about a tail shaft for my FG manual ute Currently running around 360rwkw on 98 but will be getting the tune finalised in the next few weeks and with an eflex tune hope to be pushing into low 400s Tailshaft is currently stock; as is the rest of the rear end, ride height all stock too. I've owned since new ('08) and give it a good flogging when the need arises, but I'm generally fairly easy on it around town Usually I make an effort to keep it all smooth as possible - ease it into gear, little bit of throttle on downshifts etc etc... basically to eliminate the amount of lash/clunk/whatever that seems to come as standard with these cars. If driven like that then it's smooth as. (True story) But giving it a few hard shifts WOT 3-4 the other night - could definitely feel it there more, CVs did not seem to like it too much Tried to do a bit of searching on here but couldn't seem to pin down any threads regarding tail shaft issues in manual utes in particular - not due to power anyway, plenty of issues from lowering Point is, power will be going up and it won't be getting any better, so I've basically decided to go ahead with an upgrade, question is, what's best option? I know CMS will supply and install upgraded trail shaft for $1550, waiting to hear back from them what brand/supplier and what they're rated to. Pricewise I think 1550 is more than fair if it's say a 1000hp rated shaft and balancing issues don't rear their head. Common complaint seemed to be was massive increase in NVH with the change from CV to uni type joints From memory this was all in auto utes or sedans or manual sedans though so not sure if/how relevant Is this likely to be more/same/less of an issue in a manual ute? Options and opinions please

Hi Guys, Joined the club today thanks to Clint at Profil Mods included HD Valve Springs, 1000cc Injectors 12psi Gate Flapper Mod Hi Flow Cat In Tank Fuel Pump PW Stage 2 Cooler ZF Tune 323rwkw on 98 Octane and 348rwkw on E85. Drove it home with a big grin on my face!

Hey lads, I've just bought an auto 2008 fg xr6 turbo ute that's completely stock. Being new to the scene I have a few questions for the more experienced. Firstly I was wondering what kind of power the stock turbo is capable of and how much psi they can take before things get a bit sketchy. Secondly I was wondering how much power the stock driveline and gearbox are capable of taking. I'm chasing anywhere around 400kw at the wheels. Not looking for something to get low numbers on the drag but something that's capable of smoking just about anything I put it up against. The first thing I'm looking at doing is changing all the stock inter cooler/turbo piping and getting a tune and an exhaust Money isn't a major issue however I would like to keep the costs as low as possible to try and do as much as possible if that makes sense? Any input would be greatly appreciated and there will be photos to come as the build gets under way. Cheers, Taylor.

Hi guys, First time poster but have been stalking the forums for a number of months now. Recently sold my Ba falcon and have upgraded to a 2013 manual FG MkII.. I noticed yesterday a new noise in my transmission, it sounds like a very slight grind, almost like something catching. This only happens when and results in: - Car is in gear with the clutch pushed in - Car is moving forward/back. Pushing it causes this intermittent noise to start periodically - Time between noises increases the higher gear it is in. For example twice per foot in 1st, once every 2 feet in 6th - I can feel a very slight vibration with this noise through my shifter if I hold it A guy I trust with mechanical issues has told me that it most likely isn't a pressure plate or driveline issue. Any help/past experience any of you have had with anything similar to this would be greatly appreciated. Cheers

Hey guys Ive recently (well in the last 12 months) put a Genuine F6 body kit on the front of my FG XR6T tonner Ute. After I had a little run in with a fence I decided an upgrade would be better than a repair. So I thought Id document the journey and recorded parts & prices in case anyone else is interested in doing the same thing. DECISION When doing an FPV body kit there are 2 main routs you can take; Genuine or Fiberglass, each with their benefits & drawbacks. -Basically going genuine will cost a hell of a lot more & you will probably have difficulty finding individual parts for an appropriate price. But it will fit 100% and be plastic meaning it will be more hardy if it catches or scrapes on gutters. The easiest option is to check in with FPV focused wreckers for complete body kits straight off the car. -All after market kits are Fiberglass, which tends to (the internet told me this) crack and splinter more than plastic as it is not as Flexible. It will most likely need massaging & trimming to fit properly and a lot more prep-work for a good paint finish. However... with bumpers on ebay starting from $300 they are far cheaper, especially considering that they have the lower grill surround, upper grill surround & fog light surrounds already in the mold which genuine can cost $300 each & are very hard to find. There are also ones that are molded to suit the XR style headlights if you prefer to keep that look. I would genuinely recommend people go this rout if they have the time to prep the bumper or want to have a go painting it themselves. I went the Genuine rout, mostly because this is a daily work & leisure ute that will certainly see gutters, and because I underestimated how many other parts there where to find, and the cost & difficulty in acquiring them. Just for the front end parts I spent over $2500 before paint. SHOPPING LIST Here is my receipt for the front end & side skirts. Purchasing the bumper in early August 2015 & finally getting my hands on a pair of fog light surrounds in mid January, it was a drawn out process that took a solid 6 Months on eBay, calling wreckers and shopping around. Collected parts from Sydney Special Vehicles, FTG AutoSalvage, Macarthur Auto Parts, eBay sellers: mr.fpv, ikeech, mrcarparts.59 and Gumtree Genuine: -FPV Bumper: $900 -FPV Upper Insert : $300 -FPV Upper insert rear molding: $205 -F6 Lower Insert: $250 (slight damage) -FPV Fog Light surrounds & brackets: $270 -Stone/Splash Guard Extension lip: $100 (bargain) -FPV Ute Side skirts + Brackets, cabin only: $680 Aftermarket: -Upper Grill: $210 -Lower side Grills: $140 -F6 Headlights: $199 -Stainless bolts for stone guard: $15 -Short button head screws for grills: $5 BUMPER Bumper was the first thing I picked up. Found it on Gumtree, new, never used, was in storage for project that never eventuated so $900 is a good price. All the parts are the same for F6 & GT until you talk about the lower grill area, that's the only difference. Upper Insert & the Upper Insert rear molding. I didn't even know the rear molding existed until I tried to put it all together, It basically clips the front insert & bumper together & provides screw holes for the grill. Luckily the guy I bought the front piece from knew what I was on about because I have never actually seen one listed on eBay. Probably the parts I over-paid the most for. F6 Lower Insert. Mine was missing the tow point cover and had some deep scratches in it that were bogged before painting, but the piece was still a bit pricey. The single hardest part to find for a 'reasonable' price. Eventually came across them on my fortnightly wreckers ring around. There was 2 other pairs I saw previously on eBay but were asking $400+ Chrome plastic surround with metal brackets to mount the fog light. The Splash Shield Extension lip was another part with little information that I only knew existed after asking another forum user. The FPV bumper is about 100mm longer and slightly lower (enough so that I now scrape when parking into gutters with stock suspension) I did however get a good deal on it. Was getting a new splash shield to replace my broken one so I messaged the eBayer about it who happened to have one and threw it in for an extra $100. Which is very good considering there's used lips on eBay atm for $300+. It bolts to the splash shield using existing screws. However mounting to the bumper is apparently done from factory with large plastic rivet thingys, so instead I got some stainless dome head bolts & lock nuts. Here's the Stainless bolts I used for the splash shield, Button head screws for the grills and you'll most likely need extra Scrivits or Christmas tree plugs for re-mounting mud guards, as I got out the angry pliers to remove them. For the Grills I went after market. They're stainless, cheaper, fit perfect, look the same and in the case of the Upper grill don't come with an F6 outline in them, which would look silly if you don't plan to put an F6 badge there. Find them on eBay. There's also the option of a central lower grill but I wanted the open Intercooler look. If going for a GT front the lower grill & insert will be different. There are only 2 shapes of FG headlight; XR & non-XR. Meaning the base model lights are the same as FPV, which keeps the price down for us. I went with aftermarket Sydney Special Vehicles Headlights though because they're cheaper for the same look, you can feel the lacking build quality though. I didn't like the look of the DRL/ fairy light options & already had HID kits ready to attach. Now the Wheel arch splash Guards have an ever so slightly different profile around the bottom of the bumper. You can spend the extra $500 or so on a full FPV set, or do what I did with some cutters to make them fit better & mount solid. Remove the bottom section of the mud guard. Cut off the outer screw point. Then Cut along the back edge about yay far. You can then remount with that tail part poking under the lip extension and secure in the same position but with only 2 bolts and some new Christmas tree plugs. Profile is still a little different but not $500 different Removing the old bumper involves 2 bolts under the bonnet; either side of the upper grill & then 2 on each corner of the bumper, accessed by pulling back the wheel arch mud guards. There's then 2 small bolts at the back of the under bumper splash shield. Un-clip the corners of the bumper, unplug the fog lights & it should all come off. Swap out the headlights and your good to put on your new bumper. All mounting points line up perfectly so just bolt it all back up. SIDE SKIRTS Now the Side skirts I lost the photos of. (Phone went swimming) But they were Genuine, new & in blue. There is a Chrome insert at the front of each that clips in, which for the pair goes for around $100, however mine came included with them. They also require 4 aluminum brackets (2per side) which I also lost the photos for. The wrecker who quoted me the $680 didn't realize there were brackets at first but called me back once they found out and included the ford brackets new in packaging for me at the same price. (ftgautosalvage, would recommend, were very friendly & helpful even with my regular calls asking for the same parts) I then had the panel beater fit them as I was doing 12hr night shifts at the time, but you could make your own brackets or ghetto rig them up if you wanted. PAINT I had the bumper painted for cheap by a local shop (Not my first choice as they were too busy) when it first showed up. Found the paint code used on 50th turbo wheels and had the fangs painted to match, scratches in the lower insert bogged and painted gloss black black along with the FPV logo section of the bumper. The rest was painted 09 Lightning strike with a pair of indicator mirrors. Left the parts with them, $300 and took about 3 weeks. Result was not good they must have painted the whole thing in the darker colors then masked up & put the silver over top. They're lines & paint job were good but the silver didn't match at all. So once the side skirts turned up I had them done at my preferred local shop. $800 Left the car with them for a few days. They blended the sides of the bumper into the quarter panels & bonnet. Took 7 blending coats but it turned out 90%, can only fault if your trying to find it at certain angles to the light. Painted & fitted side skirts which came out perfectly and didn't need any blending. RESULT Went from this: To This: Along with a new Bonnet, PW Stage2 Intercooler, side mount number plate, Indicator mirrors, 50th Anniversary Badges, stickers & a Bobblehead! TLDR: Genuine F6 bodykit, spent over $4000, should have bought an F6 to begin with... I'm now even more scared of roos. Looks F*cking Epic though!

I personally would like to thank our guys that went out last night, Dang with pb of 10.1@143mph running the btr 4 speed, Khye first time out with a 11.8 @ 130 mph & with a 2 year break Mark dusting the cobwebs with a 9.5 @ 150mph, Mark has been running our stage 3 ZF for over 2 years which has the modified 6r80 shaft, pump & 4 pinion billet carrier & finally been able to test its capabilities with still plenty in reserve. Now with the data that's been collected we can make some changes & move forward Congratulations to all .....more to come !

So I've just installed a 4" Dump - 5" Cat in preparation to be Tuned on Friday, Problem being I need to drive 6hrs to get to the tuner. Everyone says this will cause Overboost so I took it for a drive to try and activate Limp mode so I would know when it happens and what I'm dealing with rather than finding it all out in the middle of woop woop. Boost seemed to peak at 13psi (OBDII-android device) gunning it in 2nd or 3rd but once peaked it wouldn't boost past 3psi until the engine was shut off, no codes or lights. Made all the regular noises and ran Perfectly but with the power of an n/a xr6 and without the push back into the seat. Is this what normally happens or am I not thrashing it hard enough? Doesn't seem so bad. Also has full exhaust, turbo side intake, stage2 PW Intercooler. Never Tuned

I have noticed that there is significant differences in ignition timing between a standard 2007 F6 BF and a standard 2009 F6 FG. The load scales are different, but the FG igntion table is quite a bit more advanced in most areas of the table. Given that the FG F6 runs slightly higher boost than the BF F6, I would have thought that if anything the F6 FG would have had less ignition advance than the BF. It looks to me like the the F6 FG assumes a higher octane rating in the borderline knock table (ie 98RON fuel), will pull the timing back through knock retard if 91RON or 95RON is used and will recover the timing back to the borderline knock table if 98RON is used afterwards. Is there is a difference between the F6 BF & F6 FG engines that allows this timing increase while still keeping a conservative timing table? Or is the F6 FG ignition tables just optimised to take better advantage of 98RON than the F6 BF?

Hi all, I am now about 75% through my project of fitting late model running gear into a 1966 Mustang Coupe. Engine: Ford Barra 270t Gearbox: ZF 6 speed To share my progress along the way I have built a website to capture it all. It will be updated as the project continues. If anyone has questions I am happy to answer them. Hopefully the site will give some inspiration to others trying a conversion a little bit different or with the Fg setup. Engine and gearbox mounts are now complete so have a look. Site is www.boostedford.com

So guys, anyone heard of / seen a hardlid that's side hinged? I'm working on a tub trailer project & I reckon a hardlid that opens to the side of the tub to a near vertical position would work awesome, but have never seen it done before. Any ideas? If not are there any 1 man hard lid quick-release and completely remove options?

Hi guys, Just wondering if anyone here has bought any of these and tried them. Just a bit suss because they are in the UK and not sure how they would fit. http://stores.ebay.com.au/TOP-GAITERS-BOOTS/FORD-/_i.html?rt=nc&_nkw=FG&_fsub=1148307016&_sid=668506186&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1581&_pgn=1 Keen to hear anyones experience with them.

Iv recently installed a Deceptor Pro Bov on my FG Turbo ute. The Deceptor Pro is a bigger unit than most blow off valves due to the electronic mechanism, so its not a simple swap as it gets squashed between the motor and bonnet. I've done my install with a Turbo side intake so there's more room to work with than the stock air system. However someone else has done this install with a stock air system already back in 2009 so search the Blow off valve workshop for "Deceptor Pro" & you'll find that one. There are over 100 listings for different Deceptor Pro models. Some of them have special flanges for special vehicle and others have different inlet & outlet sizes. I got one with a 25mm inlet & 25mm outlet. for $436 off ebay. I then got an Aeroflow 90degree 32mm to 25mm reducer elbow also from eBay for $18. The factory piping has a reducer coming straight off the intercooler piping. This is where the elbow reducer goes, I cut the 32mm end down to half its length to fit. The factory spring clamps are easiest dealt with using a pair of locking pliers and are reused. The dip stick need to be slightly bent back to clear the trumpet. Then cut the airbox return pipe a bit shorter to suit. I also shortened the crank case air line to make the pipes all neat. The air enters at the bottom of the valve and the 2 on the sides are the outlets. It doesnt matter which outlet is used to vent or recirculate so I swapped them around to angle the trumpet downwards. I also undone the 4 allen bolts and rotated the manifolt nipple 180derees. The intake manifold hose is a perfect size and fits snugly on the nipple. I then found my mounting spot for the dial along with all my other gizmos. Wired the red & black wires to the back of the cigarette lighter. It draws minimal power and the lighter socket is ignition switched. Hardest part was getting the wiring into the engine bay. Loom wasn't long enough to go via behind the drivers side wheel so I poked a hole in a grommet using a coat hanger right next to the clutch hoses and then stretched it open wider with long nose pliers. (easy if you've got a auto.) I ran the wiring along the back of the engine bay along a hose squeezing it in the factory clips. Excess wiring was tied up & tucked under the center console. The loom is sleeved but the 20ish cm on the valve is not. I happened to have sleeving from my computer modding days so I neatened up that bit of wiring. I also purchased a blanking plug and another 25mm outlet. The blanking plug is so instead of adjustable vent, I can do adjustable dose. And the extra outlet is if I want to hide the venting trumpet deeper in the engine bay with some extra piping as cop camouflage. I could also plumb it as a dose/vent adjustment with no option for recirculation. Trumpet: Dose Plug: Read the instructions on adjusting the valve spring tension. Just go for a lap around the block listening to it, adjust it, rinse & repeat till your happy. Installed it just in time for the local charity cruise. My mate did a poor job filming but the kids reaction was the best!

Hey guys I recently picked up my 2014 fg xr6 mk2 ute and was thinking of lowering it but wasn't sure about what the best option would be as I don't know much about suspension I don't want to slam the ute but want it to sit at a decent height I was also worried about how low to go as I have heard that fg Utes have problems when lowered. I'm an apprentice at the moment and want to still be able to make good use of the ute for work purposes aswell Sorry for the long post but Any advice and help would be greatly appreciated Thanks

Hi all, reasonably new to this group but having dramas with my fg. Car is an fg with a built 698 atomic engine with about 50000km on it. It started off dropping number 5 cylinder with a fault code suggesting it was coils, changed coils same problem. Got a new computer and loaded myHi all, reasonably new to this group but having dramas with my fg. Car is an fg with a built 698 atomic engine with about 50000km on it. It started off dropping number 5 cylinder with a fault code suggesting it was coils, changed coils same problem. Got a new computer and loaded my files onto it and it was fixed... For about half an hour then dropped 5 again. After that You could start it up and it would run on sequential injection for the first 10 seconds then immediately drop number 5 again. So we decided maybe we would do the imjector harness. So we replaced that and got another new computer and loaded files onto it. At last she ran on all 6, even dynoed it and all again. Then without warning its dropped number 1 cylinder, with fault codes pointing to coil windings, swapped coils but number one has nothing. Doesn't even run on 6 when first started. That brings us to today. Starts and runs on 5 cylinders. I'm at breaking point and any help would be appreciated Cheers

Does anyone know the name of these rims? I want to get a set for my car!

Hi all, reasonably new to this group but having dramas with my fg. Car is an fg with a built 698 atomic engine with about 50000km on it. It started off dropping number 5 cylinder with a fault code suggesting it was coils, changed coils same problem. Got a new computer and loaded myHi all, reasonably new to this group but having dramas with my fg. Car is an fg with a built 698 atomic engine with about 50000km on it. It started off dropping number 5 cylinder with a fault code suggesting it was coils, changed coils same problem. Got a new computer and loaded my files onto it and it was fixed... For about half an hour then dropped 5 again. After that You could start it up and it would run on sequential injection for the first 10 seconds then immediately drop number 5 again. So we decided maybe we would do the imjector harness. So we replaced that and got another new computer and loaded files onto it. At last she ran on all 6, even dynoed it and all again. Then without warning its dropped number 1 cylinder, with fault codes pointing to coil windings, swapped coils but number one has nothing. Doesn't even run on 6 when first started. That brings us to today. Starts and runs on 5 cylinders. I'm at breaking point and any help would be appreciated files onto it and it was fixed... For about half an hour then dropped 5 again. After that You could start it up and it would run on sequential injection for the first 10 seconds then immediately drop number 5 again. So we decided maybe we would do the imjector harness. So we replaced that and got another new computer and loaded files onto it. At last she ran on all 6, even dynoed it and all again. Then without warning its dropped number 1 cylinder, with fault codes pointing to coil windings, swapped coils but number one has nothing. Doesn't even run on 6 when first started. That brings us to today. Starts and runs on 5 cylinders. I'm at breaking point and any help would be appreciated Cheers