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Hey guys Ive recently (well in the last 12 months) put a Genuine F6 body kit on the front of my FG XR6T tonner Ute. After I had a little run in with a fence I decided an upgrade would be better than a repair. So I thought Id document the journey and recorded parts & prices in case anyone else is interested in doing the same thing. DECISION When doing an FPV body kit there are 2 main routs you can take; Genuine or Fiberglass, each with their benefits & drawbacks. -Basically going genuine will cost a hell of a lot more & you will probably have difficulty finding individual parts for an appropriate price. But it will fit 100% and be plastic meaning it will be more hardy if it catches or scrapes on gutters. The easiest option is to check in with FPV focused wreckers for complete body kits straight off the car. -All after market kits are Fiberglass, which tends to (the internet told me this) crack and splinter more than plastic as it is not as Flexible. It will most likely need massaging & trimming to fit properly and a lot more prep-work for a good paint finish. However... with bumpers on ebay starting from $300 they are far cheaper, especially considering that they have the lower grill surround, upper grill surround & fog light surrounds already in the mold which genuine can cost $300 each & are very hard to find. There are also ones that are molded to suit the XR style headlights if you prefer to keep that look. I would genuinely recommend people go this rout if they have the time to prep the bumper or want to have a go painting it themselves. I went the Genuine rout, mostly because this is a daily work & leisure ute that will certainly see gutters, and because I underestimated how many other parts there where to find, and the cost & difficulty in acquiring them. Just for the front end parts I spent over $2500 before paint. SHOPPING LIST Here is my receipt for the front end & side skirts. Purchasing the bumper in early August 2015 & finally getting my hands on a pair of fog light surrounds in mid January, it was a drawn out process that took a solid 6 Months on eBay, calling wreckers and shopping around. Collected parts from Sydney Special Vehicles, FTG AutoSalvage, Macarthur Auto Parts, eBay sellers: mr.fpv, ikeech, mrcarparts.59 and Gumtree Genuine: -FPV Bumper: $900 -FPV Upper Insert : $300 -FPV Upper insert rear molding: $205 -F6 Lower Insert: $250 (slight damage) -FPV Fog Light surrounds & brackets: $270 -Stone/Splash Guard Extension lip: $100 (bargain) -FPV Ute Side skirts + Brackets, cabin only: $680 Aftermarket: -Upper Grill: $210 -Lower side Grills: $140 -F6 Headlights: $199 -Stainless bolts for stone guard: $15 -Short button head screws for grills: $5 BUMPER Bumper was the first thing I picked up. Found it on Gumtree, new, never used, was in storage for project that never eventuated so $900 is a good price. All the parts are the same for F6 & GT until you talk about the lower grill area, that's the only difference. Upper Insert & the Upper Insert rear molding. I didn't even know the rear molding existed until I tried to put it all together, It basically clips the front insert & bumper together & provides screw holes for the grill. Luckily the guy I bought the front piece from knew what I was on about because I have never actually seen one listed on eBay. Probably the parts I over-paid the most for. F6 Lower Insert. Mine was missing the tow point cover and had some deep scratches in it that were bogged before painting, but the piece was still a bit pricey. The single hardest part to find for a 'reasonable' price. Eventually came across them on my fortnightly wreckers ring around. There was 2 other pairs I saw previously on eBay but were asking $400+ Chrome plastic surround with metal brackets to mount the fog light. The Splash Shield Extension lip was another part with little information that I only knew existed after asking another forum user. The FPV bumper is about 100mm longer and slightly lower (enough so that I now scrape when parking into gutters with stock suspension) I did however get a good deal on it. Was getting a new splash shield to replace my broken one so I messaged the eBayer about it who happened to have one and threw it in for an extra $100. Which is very good considering there's used lips on eBay atm for $300+. It bolts to the splash shield using existing screws. However mounting to the bumper is apparently done from factory with large plastic rivet thingys, so instead I got some stainless dome head bolts & lock nuts. Here's the Stainless bolts I used for the splash shield, Button head screws for the grills and you'll most likely need extra Scrivits or Christmas tree plugs for re-mounting mud guards, as I got out the angry pliers to remove them. For the Grills I went after market. They're stainless, cheaper, fit perfect, look the same and in the case of the Upper grill don't come with an F6 outline in them, which would look silly if you don't plan to put an F6 badge there. Find them on eBay. There's also the option of a central lower grill but I wanted the open Intercooler look. If going for a GT front the lower grill & insert will be different. There are only 2 shapes of FG headlight; XR & non-XR. Meaning the base model lights are the same as FPV, which keeps the price down for us. I went with aftermarket Sydney Special Vehicles Headlights though because they're cheaper for the same look, you can feel the lacking build quality though. I didn't like the look of the DRL/ fairy light options & already had HID kits ready to attach. Now the Wheel arch splash Guards have an ever so slightly different profile around the bottom of the bumper. You can spend the extra $500 or so on a full FPV set, or do what I did with some cutters to make them fit better & mount solid. Remove the bottom section of the mud guard. Cut off the outer screw point. Then Cut along the back edge about yay far. You can then remount with that tail part poking under the lip extension and secure in the same position but with only 2 bolts and some new Christmas tree plugs. Profile is still a little different but not $500 different Removing the old bumper involves 2 bolts under the bonnet; either side of the upper grill & then 2 on each corner of the bumper, accessed by pulling back the wheel arch mud guards. There's then 2 small bolts at the back of the under bumper splash shield. Un-clip the corners of the bumper, unplug the fog lights & it should all come off. Swap out the headlights and your good to put on your new bumper. All mounting points line up perfectly so just bolt it all back up. SIDE SKIRTS Now the Side skirts I lost the photos of. (Phone went swimming) But they were Genuine, new & in blue. There is a Chrome insert at the front of each that clips in, which for the pair goes for around $100, however mine came included with them. They also require 4 aluminum brackets (2per side) which I also lost the photos for. The wrecker who quoted me the $680 didn't realize there were brackets at first but called me back once they found out and included the ford brackets new in packaging for me at the same price. (ftgautosalvage, would recommend, were very friendly & helpful even with my regular calls asking for the same parts) I then had the panel beater fit them as I was doing 12hr night shifts at the time, but you could make your own brackets or ghetto rig them up if you wanted. PAINT I had the bumper painted for cheap by a local shop (Not my first choice as they were too busy) when it first showed up. Found the paint code used on 50th turbo wheels and had the fangs painted to match, scratches in the lower insert bogged and painted gloss black black along with the FPV logo section of the bumper. The rest was painted 09 Lightning strike with a pair of indicator mirrors. Left the parts with them, $300 and took about 3 weeks. Result was not good they must have painted the whole thing in the darker colors then masked up & put the silver over top. They're lines & paint job were good but the silver didn't match at all. So once the side skirts turned up I had them done at my preferred local shop. $800 Left the car with them for a few days. They blended the sides of the bumper into the quarter panels & bonnet. Took 7 blending coats but it turned out 90%, can only fault if your trying to find it at certain angles to the light. Painted & fitted side skirts which came out perfectly and didn't need any blending. RESULT Went from this: To This: Along with a new Bonnet, PW Stage2 Intercooler, side mount number plate, Indicator mirrors, 50th Anniversary Badges, stickers & a Bobblehead! TLDR: Genuine F6 bodykit, spent over $4000, should have bought an F6 to begin with... I'm now even more scared of roos. Looks F*cking Epic though!

So guys, anyone heard of / seen a hardlid that's side hinged? I'm working on a tub trailer project & I reckon a hardlid that opens to the side of the tub to a near vertical position would work awesome, but have never seen it done before. Any ideas? If not are there any 1 man hard lid quick-release and completely remove options?

I've got 19" 50th anniversary turbo rims that I love so much that I've bought a second set. (matching trailer) However my issue has been load rated tyres. In the factory 245/35/19 I can only get a 93rating (650kg). Local Bob Jane guy said they upped the Aspect ratio and fitted 245/40/19, 98(750) to a GS ute a while ago and haven't had any clearance issues so far. Speedo is 3.8% off. Also thinking possibly 255/40/19, 100(800kg), 5% off. Specifications for the One Tonner say max rear axle load is 1700kg so if I got to 1600kg worth of tyre rating that's enough for me. I also what the bigger numbers so I can register my trailer with a higher Load capacity. So whos done this before and had experience? How does upsizing affect acceleration, drag times, launching, handeling, cruising revs etc? Considering the same brand/pattern tyres. Also how would I find out the weight rating of the rim itself? The local parts department potatoes aren't that helpful, they couldn't even find my wheels on their system & said they must be an aftermarket option. http://www.tyresizecalculator.com/tyre-wheel-calculators/tire-size-calculator-tire-dimensions http://www.bobjane.com.au/info/load-index-speed-symbol/

Hey guys I recently picked up my 2014 fg xr6 mk2 ute and was thinking of lowering it but wasn't sure about what the best option would be as I don't know much about suspension I don't want to slam the ute but want it to sit at a decent height I was also worried about how low to go as I have heard that fg Utes have problems when lowered. I'm an apprentice at the moment and want to still be able to make good use of the ute for work purposes aswell Sorry for the long post but Any advice and help would be greatly appreciated Thanks

Thought I might kick off a bit of a register for the F6 Utes. I didn't realize they were as rare as they are. Starting here with BF 2006 #0077 in silhouette, fully optioned. Stock

Hey guys, just wondering has anyone actually put 12"wide with 0 offset rims under the back of a fg ute ? I'm thinking about doing it myself but want to know if I will have any hiccups along the way other then obvious guard work... Cheers

Hi all, Long time lurker, I have decided to post up my up and coming build. As it sits, my ute is pretty much stock, just a K and N air filter I got from amazon . com for around $63 shipped to perth and a whiteline swaybar at the front. There is also an intake muffler delete in the engine bay and that's about it right now... Plans as it sits now: I have a MANTA 4" to twin 3" system ready to go on a set of Injector Dynamics 1000cc squirters lower temp thermostat herrod intake piping (which may be up for sale... NEW, just opened to look at) to acquire: intercooler and piping kit... (was thinking stage 2 process west kit... thoughts, comments welcome) turbo wastegate modding.. spoke to a great company that will mod the turbo when I pull it off, half a day to perform the work and a very reasonable price surge tank and pump set up.. ( ideas on breed welcome ) 11.8psi actuator anything else I have missed??? Ultimately I am only looking for 500rwhp Cheers

Interested in any comments on these... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Falcon-xr6-xr8-FG-BA-BF-ute-low-king-springs-FOR-303SL-/251881512218?nma=true&si=3OLgPYDoy0CWvxBjLQ%252Fzodz%252B1Es%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 The auction ended with no bids but the guy is still keen to sell $700-800 for a new set so to me it seems a reasonable deal

The aim here was to set up my ute to carry two road bikes + track gear. Two bikes will fit no problem but if you need to carry gear as well than it starts to get a bit tight. Most of the time I will only be carrying one bike, but on occasion I will take both so its nice to have the set up for it. I had a good think about maximizing the space in the ute. I decided to position the bikes 400mm away from the head board and leave this space at the front for all my gear.This means having the tail gate fully open, which I'm fine with. (it would never fully close even with the bike all the way forward against the headboard, I use to tie it up against the back tyre) Loaded up both bikes to take some measurements and see how its all going to fit. Cutting, folding & welding plate for the front wheel chocks. Bottom rack welded up, trial fitting. Welding top rack & trial fitting Front section reserved for storage, sized to snugly fit two large storage tubs & a 20lt Fuel drumBottom rack will simply drop in with out fixings to locations in the tub linerTop rack will be mounted to brackets and be totally removable with only 2 bolts Brackets made up and welded to the support posts of the tub behind the tub liner. Note the passenger side support post is actually 20mm or so further back than the drivers side. The fuel neck must have been an after thought. (ford design quality) Tub liner back in and holes drilled. Welded some tabs on the outer brackets to locate the top rack.

Tuned by Joe at CMS - BF2 - 2007 - FPV F6 Tornado - #0166 - Lightning Strike Silver - Manual - 80,000km - Fully optioned 331.2 rwkw & 964.2 Nm on 16psi on BP 98 Build Thread Here --> http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/89288-I-jets-bf-f6-ute-build/ Power mods Nizpro turbo side intake.PW stage 3 intercooler kit, hot and cold piping, TB relocation.PW surge with 044.Stainless steel Xforce turbo back, 4" dump, twin 2.5" cat back.Wastegate flapper mod.12psi Actuator.KPM 1000'sVery happy with how the car drives now, it feels really strong when it comes on boost, pulls hard all the way to redline. The torque is mental. 4th gear roll on....ooohhhhh yeah..... I'm glad I upgraded my suspension before getting it tuned. It has handling to match now. It does have a tendency to do 3rd gear power slides out of corners.....hehehhehe I really think the only change I will do in the future is an E85 tune when it becomes available in my area.

Looking at putting 1.5-2" lowering blocks in the back end. It's a 2008 fg xr6 turbo. I'm unsure if I have to change shocks and a few other things, and I've also heard that it doesn't do no good to the tail shaft

My original idea was to have 2 10" subs behind each seat with the amp in the middle but that soon changed when I went to bunnings and they told me they were unable to cut the big sheet of MDF for me, so ended up getting the smaller sheet which was half the size but only $5 cheaper, I got home and re did my box design for a single 10" in the middle of the seats and the amp sitting behind drivers seat and fabbed it up that night. The Amplifier I'm using is a Fusion EN-3004 and the Sub is Sony Xplod XS-L1035. The next day I went to Jaycar and got everything for the wiring, - 5m 8G Power wire - High Low converter - Fuse Holder - 10m Roll 7.5A Power cable Power wiring for the amp is as follows: Positive is run directly from the battery with its fuse just behind the fuse box then run through the clutch cable grommet in the fire wall down under the kick panel and up to the rear speaker then into the Amplifier. Ground is run to the same grounding point as the rear window de-mister. Remote is wired to the cigarette lighter. The High Low converter converts the speaker signal back into a RCA connection making it possible to plug into the amp, it was fairly simple to wire up, Just make sure all your polarities are correct otherwise you will run into problems. I haven't had any problems with it yet at all, apart from the neighbours telling me to turn it off

So iv had my FG XR6T ute for awhile and with my steel tray, tools and gear I reckon iv dropped an extra 400kg on it that I'm hauling every day. Its dropped 50mm from stock and is only 40mm off the bump stops. Because I want headroom to carry more weight I want some Heavier rated springs, then maybe quality airbags for the REALLY heavy stuff and to have fun bouncing up and down. (ill decide on that later) Airbags alone would be fine for daily use but wont cut it by them selves for anything extra. Don't quite want a 1tonn package but something beefier then the current sports pack. While I would love my Ute to be as low as possible I need the extra static weight capacity. Suspension currently feels really doughy, headlights are pointing up and mudflaps scrape going out my driveway What leaves do people here have or had experience with? Do I have to replace shocks & stuff as well? Iv got tomorrow off work so ill try calling some manufacturers. Everyone in town know how to lower a ute, but not how to predictably raise one for increased GVM. lol

Hey Guys, First off I'm looking to buy a first car that I can work on and muck around with and do up how I please, I've always been predominately Ford man ( Not to say that I don't like Holdens') but for a first car I want it to be meaningful and what better way to do this then to buy an XR6!! But I'm tossing and turning over the issue of a Ute or a Sedan, I've seen good mods and ideas for both but what better than to ask people who know about it! So please give me your thoughts, pros, cons and all the good stuff Enjoy!

So iv just bought myself a 2010 FG XR6T Ute, picking it up this weekend. Im Getting a Steel tray Fabricated with all the extras I could think of as I plan to keep it for quite a long time. 3 Under tray toolboxes, 20l water tank, Removable rear ladder rack, removable ladder rack pins and Trundle drawer. Just wondering what length trays most people have? I want as long a tray as I can, however as a builder I'm all ways picking up trailers and iv seen a lot of trays that extend way out past the towbar, which I reckon looks stupid and would be an absolute pain in the bollocks! Does anyone know if there are any particular towbar kits that reach out a fair way? Heavier duty the better. Iv got another concern. Ill be doing a Dual battery and air compressor setup under the tray (once I find some more cash) for the Airbag suspension. But with these toolboxes & the drawer underneath, I dont think there will be much room left to fit them, maybe between the chassis rails or something? Im not sure how the fuel tank, exhaust & stuff are organized under there. Any help would be awesome

Hey guys. Has anyone ever put ladder racks on? ... as I need help! Just purchased some ladder racks off gumtree for my Ba series 1 Turbo Ute. Taking the hard cover off putting a few toolboxes in the back for work. The Racks I have purchased don't seem to fit... Where I mount the bracket on seems to clash with the tub liner at the front and the back. I was assured that from Au-Bf would all fit, but does not seem that way. Any suggestions would be appreciated Thanks, Matthew Withall

Hey all, writing to you all from a bus right now. FML & this thing has even less pussy magnet than the 323 I'm getting about in. Tow packs on the ute, what's the difference? standard is 1600kg brake load, but theres a 2600kg option. What's included in that? The other thing is what do I look for? I take it maybe bigger left springs & a trans cooler? Not sure the auto ZF6 had a standard cooler option Cheers

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-bR1NejSyRA

Hey guys ive just bought a 2013 xr6t ute, found it was super quiet cant really hear the turbo spool, all I want to do is get a bit of noise from the turb, Ive rang a heap of dealers and they all reckon that any mods to the vehicle what so ever will void warrenty, only allowed to do cat back exhaust, I wanted to maybe install a SS growler intake or similar to get some noise, any suggestions

I have a BF XR6 turbo ute, it has a noisey rear wheel bearing,and was wondering has any replaced one of these before. I mean at home not taking it to Ford or another workshop. How hard is it, any specialty tools required? Cheers Steve

Hi all, For some reason the back end of my 03 BA ute has recently dropped very low and I can feel that it has sagged - is there any reason/explanation for this? What would be my options? Note - Previous owner had the springs reset I believe; however, the rear leaf springs just dont look like they used to?

Car: 2011 FG Xr6 Turbo - Dealer Demo. Colour: Nitro Blue Kilometers: 20k Modifications: Stock. Cost: 35k Body: Ute. Use: Daily / track drifter. About me: Im Chris Findlay, im 18 years old from Noosa Queensland, yep that makes me a P-Plater... I have an unfinished project car currently sitting in my shed awaiting its finish.. Its a 1982 Ke70 Corolla.. It has been built with the purpose and intentions to be used for drifting, I have spent roughly 25k on it to date, and it is pretty highly modified, with everything from brand new leather bucket seats, momo steering wheel, 4age 16v Quad throttle engine conversion with 250hp at the flywheel, coilovers strut braces, sway bars, sunroof, ae86 break upgrade all the way to 4 link trailing arms etc.. Hey guys, im new here so first thing I thought I would to was post a thread on my new car.. As you have read above its a 2011 XR6T, im yet to see it in the flesh as I work away and I purchased it from Victoria, had it shipped over here to Queensland, where it has been parked in my garage until I get home tomorrow night (Sunday 14/10/11), I bought the car from Hillis Motor Group, they were awesome to deal with, and the offer 100% perfect customer service. This ute has been purchased for the intention of use as a daily driver, but due to me only being home 9 days, 12 times a year (I work a 28 on 9 off rotation) Im extremely keen to take it to Queensland Raceway when I can for the occasional drift night.. I have the car booked in for this coming Thursday at Tint-A-Car to receive the darkest legal Octane tint, which should look awesome. First thing Monday morning I am debadging the boot and side skirts of the car, although it is still registered as a turbo vehicle, and insured with Just Car insurance as turbo.. I have a cunning plan which has worked for mates with high powered turbo vehicles on their Provisional licence to allow me to drive this vehicle without any hassle from the Police and its simple.. My local mechanic gave me a full receipt for labor and necessary parts for a "TURBO REMOVAL" back dated to the afternoon the vehicle was delivered to my house.. I will simply place this receipt in the glove box for use when needed.. Also I am going to do my best to hide the turbo (Although it is lower-mounted which is pretty hidden already) with metal heat shielding.. So far I have purchased a few bits and bobs to give this car some hidden potential.. Below is a list of what I have purchased so to date.. Tein super street coilover and suspension package for front and rear - http://performance.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au/index.php?option=com_vehiclefilter&filter=product&Itemid=250&car_id=26&part_number=QSJ48-EZAS3FG Black angel eye styled headlights - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/260967758972?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_3089wt_1139 Complete Headlight, fog light, tail light, number plate lamp and interior light white HID Bulb kit - http://www.facebook.com/gchidsandcarcustoms?fref=ts Rota GTR-D Wheels 18x9.5 +25 5x114.3 All round in Matte Black - http://www.rotashop.co.uk/Rota+GTR-D_c33739_33741_67993.htm White line front and rear adjustable sway bars for that extra stiffness and stability - (Front end) http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=BFF54Z (Rear end) http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=BFR42Z In the near future I plan to do some modifications such as the following 4" dump to 3" exhaust system with Varex interchangeable twin setting exhaust - Bigger Cam's - X3 Flash Tuner - Bride Low Max Fixed back Bucket seats - Full Sound system install with twin slimline 12" subs mounted behind the front seats - Larger injectors - F6 front bumper and that is about it.. So that's about it for now, I look forward to posting with updates and photos of my car as soon as possible, thanks for reading, Chris.

Hey people, This is my first post as I just signed up to this great forum. Ok so I have an Xr6T BA ute with about 119,000 k'ms. As I have a work truck, I rarely drive it much, only on weekends. However, it's still in good condition and only 5 grand left to pay off on it, so im keen to keep it for the next 4 years approx. Next year when it's paid off, I'm keen to start doing it up a bit for performance/longetitity. Just wondering what ideas you people would have keeping those aspects in mind, as I'll only be keen to be spending approx $5000-7500, and maybe things I can do to avoid paying for a tune as well as I know they can get expensive?? Thanks heaps

Just wondering, how much a suspension set up on my BA ute would set me back approx, with springs, shockies and all, and best types of brands etc

Wondering how much a decent braking system would approx be for new rotors, bigger pads etc, and what brands I should go for...