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About 10 years ago there was quite a few people looking at spraying water onto the intercooler to drop the temperature. But there has not been anything I can find in the last 5 or more years. I have tried the search here "intercooler water spray" you get over 800 pages, anything containing the word "intercooler" comes up. I am in Tennant Creek NT, from November to April, it goes over 40c every day, the road surface temp, is over 65c. I am looking to reduce the temp just before I hit the accelerator, its a small town, so once is all you get. I am also installing a PW stage one intercooler as soon as I can get to Adelaide and get Jeturbo to tune her. Does anyone still run water sprays on their intercoolers?

Been a while since there has been much action in the Territory section here but I found it really useful with planning the mods on mine, so thought I’d fire something up again to see if people are still out there modding them. Thought it could be a list of Mods, dyno figures & quarter times if you have them. I’ll kick it off. Mamba GTX3584R Turbo 80lb Siemens injectors Walbro in tank 450lph fuel pump Still running stock Intercooler (didn’t have $$$ to upgrade but next on list) Custom Intercooler water spray set-up using redirected window washers Running E85 (have a Gull E85 pump 2 mins from my house so easily managed and thought better to run cooler until Intercooler replaced then I’ll do 98 tune too) Dyno tune at Torque Performance in Auckland 290kw at the wheels running 12psi Havnt been down the quarter in it yet but did a low 14 dead stock so hoping it might sneak into 12s even with stock Intercooler still holding it back. Will head to track next Friday.

Installed a DIY intercooler water spray kit today. I used the same method as geea, so that I can activate the spray using my windsheild wiper spray inside the cabin. It works perfect and is so easy!! And the cost $$$ 15 bucks!! I got all my supplies from hardware store garden section. I will be testing it at the drags in two weeks, should be interesting. Just curious to know whether you still use yours geea?

My 2 cents worth, not trying to offend anyone just my opinion from experience "How are you going to know whether it's pinging or not?," Ford engineers have spent millions of $ on developing knock detection to protect these engines while optimising power for fuel variations listening through specific listening windows and filtering unwanted noise no aftermaket system or the human ear can match it! "What wide band are you going to use on the road tuning," Most aftermarket widebands have a 0-5 volt output that can be interfaced to the logger "What wide band are you going to use on the road tuning, how are you going to adust a rich mixture at 2000 rpm and a lean mixture at 3000?" VCM suite will do this! "What tp setting for what boost are you going to go open loop fuel? doesn't matter you can not adjust it with the handset anyway" Again VCM suite will do this! "How are you going to simulate high load in top gear on the road with out doing 190 kmh while watching the laptop and afr's etc" I would suggest the local drag track and dattalog. How does a dyno operator know what load is on a specific car at 190kph I would suggest this would be guess work. "How do you know you have exceded mbt even though the motor is not pinging, that's right you won't" My experience with optimising 1/4 mile times is given the octain rating of pump fuel including E85 on a turbo car the knock threashold is well below the MBT hence the closer you can get to the knock threashold on the road and track the closer you get to the MBT the faster it will go. Following is an article from a reputable motoring journalist that make interesting reading Lifted from AutoSpeed Blog » Blog Archive » For Godsake, for some testing forget the bloody dyno – get out on the road! For Godsake, for some testing forget the bloody dyno – get out on the road! Posted on December 4th, 2005 in Opinion by Julian Edgar Why is it that people put so much faith in dyno testing? I have written about this topic before (see Driving Emotion – August 2004) but it needs to be continually shouted from the rooftops. Dynos are bloody useless in so many areas of car modification testing that I don’t know even where to start. But I’ll try. As I wrote in that previous column, they’re pretty well useless for testing turbo boost controls. Why? Well they: •Don’t take into account the acceleration rate of each gear – vital because boost overshoot on transients is hugely affected by the rate of engine rpm increase. •They don’t allow the testing of boost behaviour of full-throttle gearchanges (very few people do full throttle gearshifts on the dyno). Again, it’s in just these conditions that you look for boost overshoots and/or slow increases back to peak boost after each gearchange. •No one ever does a full-bore launch from a standstill on a dyno. And the speed with which boost can be brought up in these conditions – ie controlling wastegate creep – is a major aspect of good boost control. •On the dyno people never trial all the different combinations of throttle position, load and engine rpm that you’ll find in a few days of road driving. (I originally said in 10 minutes on the road, but let’s be scrupulously fair.) None of this is hard to understand: making sure that boost doesn’t exceed a certain level in relatively slow-changing engine conditions is vastly easier than doing the same on transient – but major – changes in engine load that might be completed over just a few seconds. And finally, I made the point that an intercooler cannot be effectively tested on a dyno. Recently I have been testing intercooler water sprays. As you would expect from this prelude, the testing has been done on the road. We have written about it in the past: all other things (like drop size) being equal, the effectiveness of a water spray is highly dependent on the mass-flow of ambient air through the ‘cooler. But let’s take it further. In fact, it’s the global airflow over, under and around the car which will determine how well a spray works. Why? Because it’s this airflow that determines how much air passes through the intercooler. If there is little air passing through the core, the water droplets will evaporate on the surface of the core, cooling only a tiny proportion of it. On the other hand, if there is plenty of air passing through the core (and plenty of evaporating water droplets to go with it!) the majority of the core thickness will be cooled. Irrespective of the size of the fan stuck in front of the radiator, a dyno simply does not replicate this global airflow. It doesn’t even come close. And that applies to some dyno fans that I have seen that are massive – housed in a cube-shaped frame standing taller than I am. To get airflow that is characteristic of the road – and those characteristics include speed, degree of turbulence, temperature and relative humidity – a full climate-controlled wind tunnel is needed. And those don’t use fans as tall as I am – instead they use a fans many metres in diameter and driven by enormously powerful electric motors. Most wind tunnels are also of the recirculating design and have high-speed moving floors. So, recently seen a modified car workshop with a climate-controlled, moving-floor wind tunnel with a dyno in it? No, neither have I. Very, very clearly, writing something like: “I experimented with a water spray when my car was being dyno’d recently and it made stuff-all difference – there was no noticeable improvement on the dyno with my front-mounted 600x300x75 cooler” is rather like saying: “When I moved my car from the driveway into the shed, I could detect no improvement in the handling of the new tyres”. If you are not exactly replicating the real-world conditions in which you are trying to gain an improvement, what worth is the testing? In fact it is worse than useless – it is potentially misleading. It’s not as if on-road testing is difficult or expensive. Just put a fast response temp probe in the intake air stream and watch it as you drive around. [And if the car is of such performance this cannot be done on the road, (1) you wonder what use it is as a road car, and (2) you can always hire a track.] Have a switch that manually turns the spray on and off, and remember what the numbers show in different situations. Without spending a cent, you have a moving road, the correct global airflow including such subtleties as real world turbulence, accurate engine loads for the available airflow, and so on and so on. It’s in this way that you can find that in some turbo intercooled cars, peak intake temps on load occur immediately after being stopped in traffic. Or in other intercooled turbo cars, a slow climb up a long hill when stuck behind a truck can cause intake air temps to go higher than when on a full-boost, through-the-gears 0 – 150 km/h run. Or in other intercooled cars, 15 minutes of consistently hard driving will blow intake air temps out of the water. You’ll also be able to see in what conditions of road speed, ambient temperature, and load history an intercooler spray is effective. In experience of my own turbocharged intercooled road cars (13 different intercooling systems on nine turbo cars over nearly 20 years), an intercooler spray that is triggered by a dumb boost pressure switch spends most of its time wasting water. The spray control system must have the intelligence to at least monitor intercooler core temp (or, less preferably, intake air temp) and engine load. To think that a quick dyno run at full throttle (or even 30 ramped dyno pulls, one after the other) is going to tell you anything much about on-road intake air temps, or the efficiency of an intercooler water spray, is completely fallacious. And the great thing is, it’s so easy and cheap to get absolutely cast-iron validity in your results. Just do the testing where you drive the bloody car…

I am contemplating doing this with a windcreen washer bottle myself. I will just use a couple of windscreen spray nozzles mounted on the grill. I see some comments saying that the water has to be atomised. I think that is for when you are putting water inside the intake. im pretrty surre if you atomise the spray on the outside it wont even reach the intercooler before it evaporates. I used to have a sh*t car that would overheat badly on hot days. I would go to a servo, fill the squeegy bucket and throw the water on my radiator. The temp guage needle would move from overheat to below normal in about 3 seconds. Water on the race track. With a couploe on spray nozzles im pretty sure it will all evaporate and you want see a single drop hit the road. Sounds good using the boost to trigger the spray, I never thought of that. I was going to put a micro switch against the pedal so it would spray whenever I put the pedal to the floor (same system as they use in basic nitrous kits) So the water would spray at WOT (if my foots not to the floor I dont need the cooling). This would be extremely cheap to do and depending on driving habits would mean less filling of the bottle. People who say it is the evaporation that cools are I believe correct. Hence the meth/water mix might be even better as the alcohol will speed up evaporation. Although the meth might evaporate from our water bottle in a day or so. As far as I understand it the metal transfers heat energy to the water which causes the atoms in the water to move faster and get further apart, which turns the water into steam which then carries the heat energy away. One question. Do we need to get our cars tuned with the spray in operation or will the air temp sensor get the ECU to take care of adding extra fuel and boost?

I looked into this for my RTV but decided against it in favour of spraying water directly into the piping after the intercooler. Have a read up on water injection of you're interested, by the time your done messing with a set up to spray your cooler you might be better off doing injection. No need to plan ahead and get your cooler temp down before nailing it, water injection set up on a boost switch is on demand and pretty much set and forget.

Low in the car, its better to fit a solenoid or check valve otherwise you may get a siphon effect. I'm currently gathering parts for a DIY water injection kit, not doing it for power gains at this time just lower intake temps and the DIY aspect. These are the rough prices off the top of my head Shurflow 60-90psi water pump - $120 Hobbs pressure switch ~4psi - $30 Aquamist water injection atomisating jet - $40 10L water jerry can - $10 Water solenoid valve - $10 4mm Nylon hose - $5 10mm water hose $5 Float switch (for tank water level) - $5 Total = $320 I'm also thinking of adding a manually activated intercooler spray basically T another hose off the existing water lines add another solenoid and some cheapo misting nozzles off ebay.

it's certainly not a common thing... but it does do the job. nothing wrong with those 5 year old threads that display information about it try this search: https://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/search/?q=intercooler water spray&updated_after=any&sortby=relevancy&search_and_or=and

This tab gets screwed to a crossmember but the plastic tab often breaks off. That would be why I’ve bought this secondhand splash guard from somewhere. However, a front section of plastic had still come away from the main section. I’ll sort that out with a drill and some zip-ties in a few minutes. As mentioned, the front plastic tab breaks off. Someone has previously prevented this on the old splash guard by making up this metal bracket and bolting it on. I like this idea. I wanted to make a template of this bracket so that I could get some made up for future use. I flattened it with my hydraulic press, took it inside and traced around it on some paper with a marker pen. Once I had an outline of it on paper, I put it back in the press to bend it back into the required shape. I drilled some holes and bolted it to the replacement splash guard. I also drilled holes and put some zip-ties through to hold the plastic sections together. The replacement splash guard is on the left. The previous one (on the right) also had a lot of damage from hitting kerbs and driveways. This is the main reason why I set about replacing the splash guard with the spare that I had. There are plastic hooks that help hold it into place, and one of those hooks was broken off. Rather and have a bunch of Philips head screws to contend with (as well as the original factory screws) I wanted it to be as close to the original setup as possible. About the put the new splash guard on. Before putting the replacement splash guard on I had a look around and saw the pod air filter. It needs cleaning, but that will involve removing the front bumper. I also noticed that I could easily access the driver’s side front indicator globe while I was there. Goody, I could get that done now instead of going in through the wheel arch later. I put a new BAU15S globe in and sprayed some silicon spray on the o-ring and base of the orange plastic holder to make it easier to screw back in. The base of the Plazaman 1000hp intercooler. It’s big and wide. With Falcons, the windows sit in rubber guides. Friction eventually develops between the rubber and window glass, forcing the window regulator (ie electric motor) to work extra hard moving the glass up and down. This causes premature failure of the window regulator. This is why I periodically spray some silicon spray into the window guides on my Falcons. I squirt silicon spray into each guide (front and rear of each door frame) and then run the window up and down 10-15 times to ensure that the silicon lubricant is spread throughout the guides. I wanted to fit new spark plugs, so bought a set of the same that was previously in the car - NGK BKR7E. I read numerous forum posts about different spark plugs, but decided in the end to go with the same model of spark plug that the car was originally tuned with when the engine was modified. Putting the new spark plugs in. The coil cover bolts. In recent months I have been experimenting with some heat-proof o-rings under the coil cover bolts instead of the original fibre washers. This is to prevent water getting past them when I wash the engine bay. However, I wanted to make sure that the rubber o-rings would seal properly against the bolt heads. I did a quick lap underneath each bolt head with a Dremel and wire brush. An o-ring on one of the coil cover bolts. Once the new spark plugs were fitted it was time to drive the car forward. I loosened the plastic splashguard in the wheel area and removed the washer pump. I then ran the garden hose in it for a minute or so at low pressure to flush out any junk that might have been in there. Now that I was finished with the engine bay, I could let the engine idle for a while and top up the coolant.

Good Day Ladies & Gentlemen Had to relocate to Newcastle for work, subsequently borrow my mates van to lug all my sh*t up from Wollongong. Let him drive my pride and joy BF MKII 2006 XR6T to and from work whilst I had his van, makes 340 kw at the wheels, List of mods below: # - Procces West Billet Surge Tank & Bosch 044 Fuel Pump # - Stage 2 Process West cooling package - 4.5 inch front mount cooler, cold side side intercooler piping, throttle body relocation, under battery cold air intake # - 60 lb siemen injectors # - X-Cal 2 CV tune I made this extremely clear to my mate that performance cars dont like water, and if in the event its pissing down rain try to keep the air intake away from water I.e dont drive through puddles of water or driving behind a truck keep the right hand side of the car clear of the spray etc... Unfortunatly he drove through a rather large puddle, 2/3's of the way through he realised how deep it was and parked it as soon as he could, 40m up the road from the puddle(river,pond,tsunami,lake michigain,atlantic ocean what ever floats your boat, no pun intended). Judging by the dirt and debris on the cooler and the air filter it was a good inch under water. Once he parked it and turned it off it wouldnt start, told him it was hydrolic locked and leave it. Subsequently my brother, good mate and I pulled the coil packs out to find that cylinders 1,2,3 had water over the plugs and 4,5 & 6 where completely flooded. We got the plugs out of 1,2,3 and 4 but not 5 & 6. Turned the car over and out came plugs 5 & 6, along with a lot of water. Kept doing this until no water was spouting from the cylinders(we got most of it out I beleive, strong smells of fuel) Went to repco and got new spark plugs and fitted them, we had the piping of from the cooler to throttle body as we assumed the cooler was full of water and how right we were. Got it started, sounded terrible, reved it to approx 2.5k rpm and it was like some one turned a fire hose on, sprayed about 10 litres of solid water. Back to repco for new plugs, oil and filter. Repeated the above after draining the intercooler, got it running, limped it back to my house(up the road) and dropped the oil replaced the plugs, checked the turbo, no damage. Put everything back together, idoling fine, cleared the ECU fault codes with the flash tunner and took it round the block, can hear the turbo spooling but wont come up on boost, also very very laggy between gears, just had the steel pan conversion new oils and trans cooler installed less than 3000k's. Can also hear a metalic sounding noise in the top end, when idoling sounds fine except for the metaling rattling in the top end. Any suggestions? Its fair to say im devastated as this is my pride and enjoy which I rarely get to drive due to work commitments. My mate has offered to pay for it, told him its gonna be around 3k and up if block, valve or pistons are rooted. Any input or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!

Give me your address and I will send it I used this instead and used the fg throttle body well that arived today from one of the guys I gave some of the car parts to .polish for the stereo plastic part to get rid off the scratches on the screen .and a temperatre controller to swich on a fan. Nice one ,must have liked the parts .there are good people out there He said I can set it up as a intake temp sender as it fits in between the fins of the cooler .can also set up a spray set up for the intercooler if it reaches a desired temp it will start a pump and spray water onto the front of the cooler to cool it down faster

The Earl's kit arrived and everything looks to be there, so bring on Sunday. It will be interesting to see Stever cleaning out his intercooler. I've read somewhere on the forums that someone recommends doing it every 6 months and recommends a spray that AC mechanics use, that from what I gather helps breakdown the gunk between the fins and you just spray it out with water then.

Recently, I had a custom edit tune done and the tuner told me that the intercooler was my restriction for going any further in performance. My intercooler is the F6 but is black so it looks the same as the standard xr6t unit. This was my intention as I wanted my mods to be stealth. Anyways it seems that the F6 I/c is not much better that the standard and Ive heard this now several times over. I asked the tuner if water spraying the intercooler will help and he agreed. Ive got all the hardware for a geea water spray mod that Im planning to install. I happen to talk with a guy that's been into performance turbo cars for alot of years and he recommended water injection as being a better solution. He said that water spray can only cool down the air upto the ambient temp if 100% efficient which is impossible. Whereas, water injection is much cooler and right at the manifold and isnt limited to water as methanol being cooler can be used. Anyways, that's all I know about water injection but am keen to know more so can anyone enlighten me about water injection and recommendation of kits, prices, etc. Regards, Max

Im pretty sure the tempreature of the water will make little difference. Its the heat energy required to turn water into vapour that really matters. I'd be interested to know why? Without evidence to the contrary, I agree. Although, maybe a finer mist will carry the water further into the intercooler fins, not sure. Ralph, I am just going to use a regular windscreen washer bottle and pump, connected to a couple of regular windscreen spray jets. This is what will trigger the spray. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Boost-Pressure-Switch-For-Turbo-Water-Injection-hobbs-/230910286499?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35c3535aa3

LOL - Mmmmmm - new rear window sticker; "Boosted Bowlers", and maybe a little Super Roo carrying a turbo and a Bowls Bag.... there's a thought! I knew leaving the spray on advertising was a gamble and would draw a little flack . I sat there looking at it, then covered it up, then said "stuff it".... and it sure draws the head turns, no doubt. Actually, I'm really happy with the front on look -understated with bit of hey wait a minute - same reason the 3.5"tail pipe is just an angle cut off with no chrome tip, painted black. AndrewD = Plazmaman pipe set via Karl at Hiroperformance. And yeah - clamps.... any suggestions anyone? I think these will go once the front comes off again... not overly fussed with three spot welds on the clamp anchor.... Anyone who wants the data sets on this cooler PM me and I'll email them to you (Tuono) - I'm stuffed if I can remember where I found them... might even be on here somewhere. Includes graphs - but is a pretty big file (2.3mb). Excerpt from that file summary (note - standard car): Top of second gear the Stock intercooler outlet temp was 24 degrees above ambient compared to PWR intercooler at 8Deg. • Stock intercooler peak pressure drop in first gear of 1.03 psi. The PWR unit peaking at 0.41psi. • Stock intercooler Total temp drop at this stage was 55Deg . PWR unit at 73Deg. • Engine water temp still constant at a slightly lower 206 Deg. 3rd gear: Top of third gear the Stock intercooler outlet temp was 31 degrees above the ambient compared to the PWR 7Deg. • Stock intercooler peak pressure drop in third gear of over 0.61 psi compared to the PWR of 0.02psi. • Stock intercooler total temp drop at this stage was 66 Deg, compared to the PWR 88Deg. No intercooler wars here guys - this one suited what I wanted (big as possible without an air saw to do a hackathon), looked the goods, used the standard mounts so I can swap it back easy if needs be to support the mortgage payments, and provided a little bit more than needed for the occassional squirt on a hot Brisbane day... and the psi this is running it needs a breath of fresh air. Happy as Larry with the result at 30 deg yesterday - fantastic... and now as I can get more than one run out of the dam thing :laughrolling: ! PS Tab - I'm finished now. I think.

This is such a big question As far as I know, unless there's moisture involved (rain or water spray etc), an intercooler will never cool the charge air below ambient because an intercooler works by convection and the "cool" fluid in this instance of convection is the ambient air.

The merits of water sprayers are justified. An air to air intercooler is at best 100% efficient. Which means it can reduce inlet temperatures to only the ambient temperature (temperature of the day). A water spray system would significantly benefit inlet air temperatures and in some cases reduce fuel consumtion, allow more ignition advance, allow faster acceleration, as cooler air is more dense than hot or heated air. Forget hobs switchs as they are inefficient and don't address the real problem of heat saturation. The answer is, and not trying to be a salesperson comes from autospeed. They produce an intelligent water spray module. This measures intercooler temperature, injector duty cycle, inlet air temperature etc. etc. Coupled with the irigation nozzle (better atomisation of water droplets increases heat exchange), with one way stop valve and vdo washer pump. This would be the most effective kit as it is only used when required. As throttle is depressed the duty cycle of your injectors increase telling sprayer to activated when selected duty cycle is achieved. If temperature of intercooler or inlet is exceeded the sprayer activates. This utilises the extra weight placed on the car to the greatest effiency. The addition of methonol to the water is ? for myself, as the only benefit of methonol in water is normally used in water injection direct into throttle body. Not something I am a fan of as people who use water injection do so because they can't or won't spend the time in properly tuning an engine. Water injection robs power from the engine because there is less room for combustable mixture as it is taken up by the water molecules. Before anyone says water is made up of hdrogen and oxygen two elements used in combustable mixture the temperature required to ignite hydrogen in water is massive. If it wasn't we wouldn't put fires out with it. The web address is as follows: http://www.autospeed.com/shop/category_705/browse.html hope this helps would like to see where people have mounted there resivors. Hope this helps

As many of you know, I've been fighting the dreaded engine temp saga for years at the circuit! :)d What was the temp at Sanddown that day? Try not to track mine in temps over 25-30deg, but Scatterbrain has regualar high temp track experience. My suggestions would be as follows: - Change your engine oil and brake fluid asap. Both will be fried. - Is yours a ZF or manual? Very often overheating limp mode is misdiagnosed as engine oil temp related, when it's actually the ZF fluis getting too hot. It's very hard to tell what happened. I'd be investing in a few gauges. I've actually found the best one to be a simple alarmed digital gauge that I connect to the thermostat housing for coolant. Preset the alarm for 115-120deg, so you can concentrate on your driving at not check gauges every 60sec. The Aeroforce OBD ones are good too Other things I've done to keep temps down. List is long: - Big engine oil cooler and big ZF oil cooler both fed by removed foglights with thermo fans sucking air through. - Bigger Fenix radiator (or PWR) with custom foam shrouding. - Straight water as coolant with just Redline water wetter or similar as additive. - Big floor mounted industrial fan in pits. Even spray intercooler in pits with water bottle to cool. - Vented bonnet. - Cool down laps and bonnet open all day in the pits. - Shorter session. Usually 5 laps for me. - E70 or E85 with over engineered fuel supply like dual fuel rail etc - lower boost, richer tune. Turning heater on and venting to back seats helps sometimes too. All I can think of at the moment.

Adding 10% metho to the mixture will dramaticallly increase the cooling effect of the water. The metho does several things: A. It decreases the water's surface tension and makes the droplets stick better to the intercooler fins rather than flying off in the airflow B. It lowers the temperature at which the water evaporates (effectively the flash point) which means that you are getting more effective flash evaporation... the principle that actually creates the cooling effect. If you want to know more about this sort of crap, I refer to Homer Simpson who once contended that 'In this house we obey the laws of thermodynamics'. Do a web search on 'latent heat of evaporation' and you will find endless reams of crap about the amount of energy required to convert water to gas. This is what you are trying to do when you spray the water on the intercooler. This large energy transfer in converting the water to vapour is what is sucking all the heat from the intercooler, not just the effect of putting cold water on the intercooler. p.s. Dont use more than about 25% metho in your mixture as you would not want your water spray to become flammable (I suspect that would be bad).

Intercooler thermo fan......why not? This is my first turbo car, so I'm still learning about whats good and whats not. But it strikes me as odd that we dont have thermo fans on our intercoolers. Maybe some of us do? I have not seen anything on this forum about the topic other than a throw away comment under the Water spray thread. 1. Thermo fans work great on our radiators, so we know they work. 2. Once we hit 60kmh the natural air flow will probably do the job but below that thermo fans should reduce temps and ensure we have cooler air for launch at the lights or track. 3. I notice that quite a few 4x4 drivers are fitting a thermo fan to their intercoolers with great success (so they say). I guess their turbos are working hard but the car is moving too slow for natural air flow to do the job. 4. A thermo fan is cheap, especially when compared to a bigger intercooler. Or if you already have a massive intercooler, just make it more effective when idling? 5. I guess space would be a possible restriction? Pro's Con's any body? Am I missing something?

Can you explain further, what sort of system? Just hose them down? Sounds like a plan I need to know more about. It'd actually somethink I saw Jeff (xlr8ed) using in Qld. I was using a 2lt coke bottle filled with water and I saw Jeff using a pump water spray bottle that you can get from the hardware store. I use it in between runs to help cool down the plumbing, intake plenum and intercooler. I just spray cold water on them and they cool down quicker which means more useful runs. The problem with draging at the track is all the time with the car stationary building and retaining heat. This isn't the case on the street as the car is usually in motion and cooling itself down. If you are doing this it's important to make sure that your car is not dripping before you get to the front of the que. I take a towel and remove any drips from under the front of the car. Geea. Almost worth plumbing in some tube and a little electric motor ala windcsreen washers. Not sure how you'd get past the heat around the cooler though (thinking cheap, simple to install plastic tube rather than heavy expensive metalic hosing and so on. Good tip. In my old car I had a water spray hooked up to the windscreen washer bottle. I had a "T" piece at the bottom of the bottle that had one side for windscreen and the other for spray. I also had a couple of taps to turn either off. When I had the spray on I disconnnected the wipers to stop them going when I used the spary. I had both taps in easy to get at spots. I had one tap off and one on. I think there is a thread with instructions and pics on here somewhere. Geea. If anyone knows the thread........post the link! Good idea there, I was thinking the same thing, except using an electric changeover so I could do it in car. My concern would be finding a way to the intercooler that wouldn't melt those little bitty plastic pipes!

Can you explain further, what sort of system? Just hose them down? Sounds like a plan I need to know more about. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> It'd actually somethink I saw Jeff (xlr8ed) using in Qld. I was using a 2lt coke bottle filled with water and I saw Jeff using a pump water spray bottle that you can get from the hardware store. I use it in between runs to help cool down the plumbing, intake plenum and intercooler. I just spray cold water on them and they cool down quicker which means more useful runs. The problem with draging at the track is all the time with the car stationary building and retaining heat. This isn't the case on the street as the car is usually in motion and cooling itself down. If you are doing this it's important to make sure that your car is not dripping before you get to the front of the que. I take a towel and remove any drips from under the front of the car. Geea. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Almost worth plumbing in some tube and a little electric motor ala windcsreen washers. Not sure how you'd get past the heat around the cooler though (thinking cheap, simple to install plastic tube rather than heavy expensive metalic hosing and so on. Good tip. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> In my old car I had a water spray hooked up to the windscreen washer bottle. I had a "T" piece at the bottom of the bottle that had one side for windscreen and the other for spray. I also had a couple of taps to turn either off. When I had the spray on I disconnnected the wipers to stop them going when I used the spary. I had both taps in easy to get at spots. I had one tap off and one on. I think there is a thread with instructions and pics on here somewhere. Geea.

Correct me if I'm wrong here xrt, but I think he was referring to external water spray onto the surface of the intercooler and not injection, ETM. It's a good idea, in theory, if you have high ambient temps and a not too efficient intercooler. The only downside is you will use lots of water and you'll need to sort out spray head flow rates for maximum effect without just pouring water everywhere. Also, a large capacity tank is normally required as a washer bottle isn't very large in capacity and won't last long. Good luck if you decide to do it and post up some pics of the end result.

Yeah probably LOL, actually that is disrespect. The idea is to cool down the intercooler itself as much as possibly so that we are getting cooler air for launch. I dont know, I have not seen or heard of anybody testing it in anything other than 4x4. Would not increase peak power on a dyno but might increase available power at launch. Are you suggesting 100% metho for the street? Agreed it would be more effective but I'm a little worried about potential fire risk. A 10% mix has been suggested in this thread (or was it the water spray thread) and I was going to try that. Ducting is a great idea and I am working on shrouding between intercooler and rediator (so the rad fans help pull air through). I had not thought of making a ram type setup for the intercooler. Would that be as simple as blocking off any areas say around the radiator where airflow might sneak past into the engine bay? Did not know that. any idea why?

As far as I am aware (and I am prepared to be corrected) the colour is only an issue if the heat energy is comming in the form of photons (light) eg. sunlight. In the case of sunlight, black will absorb more heat as it absorbs the photons. White will be coolest as it reflects all the colours of the spectrum. Differnt colours will have different effects depenging on which colours of the spectrum the absorb or reflect. This is subtractive colour (reflective). Not to be confused with additive colour where you are simply looking at light itself (such as a computer screen). Not sure where you are getting your info from but I just cant let this one go. Copper is far better at transfering heat than aluminium. that's why radiators have been cooper for so long. They paint them black because copper oxidises (a form of rust). Radiators were usually considered ugly so black was the colour but you can paint them any colour you want...no difference. So I hear you ask, why are all the intercoolers aluminium then. Cooper is a better conductor but it is softer. You will find radiator fins bend much more easily that intercooler fins. From memory I thank most radistors have brass tanks with cooper fins. Any way due to the pressures going through an intercooler aluminium is used for the extra strength. In fact gold is a much better conductor than cooper but its a tad expensive and softer again. Electricity works much the same aluminium ok, cooper better, gold awesome. Thts why gold is used for critical electronic components. I think the reason some people paint their intercoolers black is for the stealth look. Aluminium oxidises too but very slowly and you can easily rub it off. Correct, as I think I mentioned earlier, once you hit 60kmh the fan will be useless. However whilst you are idling at the lights on a hot summers day or doing a burnout before the drag it may be usefull to get the intercooler as cool as possible before the run. Once you are moving this is where I believe the water spray takes over as the air flow increases evaporation and therefore cooling.