Jump to content

xr_velocity

Donating Members
  • Posts

    290
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by xr_velocity

  1. You won't need the eboost as you can just have a rotary dial on the dash which changes boost settings for you. If you are using the eboost to switch boost levels between gears the Haltech can do that too automatically. It really would be a glorified boost gauge and people really only ever used them because the stock ECU couldn't do what it did. Sell it to fund more stuff for the Haltech like the Racepak dash which replaces all the gauges in the car, Haltech also have a multi gauge that can be hooked up to display data from the ECU from the additional sensors like e85 percentage and fuel pressure. The possibilities are endless, I can't wait to get it all done!
  2. I am definitely up for one of these ECUs. The possibilities are almost endless compared to the stock ECU. The ability to add fuel/oil pressure sensor/wideband o2 sensor to protect your engine which you just spent $10k on is priceless. Going into limp mode when the ECU detects lean outs, automatic tuning based on long term fuel trim and applying those self learned maps to the base tune. Rally anti lag to stay on boost between gears, flat shifting, traction control that actually works and is adjustable to infinity settings AND have a switch/rotary dial to select different traction control/boost levels/redline/anti lag/rally anti lag etc. That stuff is native on million dollar supercars and you get it all in a plug and play kit. Best thing is you can bring it home connect your laptop and play around with the extra features like engine protection, adding sensors etc and not have to be an expert tuner. Per gear boost control and have that setup on a rotary dial. Leave the tunnig to the tuner and you learn and do the rest. All the things you wish your stock ECU does, it does,....except for ZF, but I have a manual so don't care I am just looking for the right tuner to tune it. There is no point buying one if you are going to use it like a stock ECU. The advanced features is where this the aftermarket ECUs shine. My setup is going to have a flex fuel sensor, no need to change tunes at the servo. Traction control on a rotary dial so I can select the amount of slip allowed from front to rear wheels. Each position on the rotary dial will allow more slip and the last position will be off. Combination rotary dial settings, traction control/per gear boost/rally anti lag. This will let me have full aggressive settings for play time and more relaxed settings for relax time. Engine protection using wideband, fuel pressure sensor, oil pressure sensor/knock. Limp mode for mild problems and shutdown for catastrophic problems. Having a 600kw rear wheel drive street car and have a traction control system that will actually work and let you put power down without having to run 15 inch drag tyres. I am soooo excited about this product, but it will take some homework about what you want it to do and how you want it to work. It's not like the stock ECU where you get an engine map and that's that. You need to be properly involved with the tuner and the product to make it worth while. https://www.haltech.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/HAL_FeatureSheet_Elite2500-final.pdf
  3. I am going to try the Pirelli Pzero Corsa, Tempe has them cheap and they are 60 treadwear. Should be very sticky.
  4. Do the fuel lines of the FG rail connect directly to the BAs?
  5. I didn't expect to see a huge power gain. What you have said is the opposite of what I have experienced. Can't tell the difference at idle/off boost but can certainly tell the difference on boost when the voltage is increased.
  6. Do you mean with a small spark gap? They were gapped to 0.7mm before installing the kit.
  7. I fitted one of these on the weekend as well, kept the coils and plugs but regapped them to 1.0-1.1mm. At idle I don't think I really notice any difference. But when it comes on boost you can feel the extra spark when the unti turns on. It is run off a hobbs switch which I think ups the coil voltage at 5psi. I can actually feel it up the voltage. There is definitely more urge in power delivery and the engine sounds different, better. Boost hits very hard now, whereas before I would sometimes get traction in first with traction control on now it just spins up the rears. I was skeptical but am converted for sure. I got my new but second hand for cheap so was a no brainer.
  8. HI PSI, you still got that option 5 for sale? Option 5 is then only one useful to me. $1700 for a second hand clutch is far too much. Can get a brand new Xtreme twin organic rated to 600rwkw for that much new with warranty. Get me on PM if you are serious about selling.
  9. HI PSI, you still got that option 5 for sale?
  10. I can drive around in first gear now and not get any drive line lash at all that I can feel. Just power on and power off, no bouncing and jerking. I think that is why there is more traction, no on and off jerking, just smooth transition from coasting to power.
  11. Just got the car back after having the Independent Motorsports twin bush diff hat installed....wow what an improvement. Very little clunk and barely any drveline lash in a manual is something I haven't experienced in this car since it was stock. I have solid front bushes on the front mounts of the diff as well. It even seemed to have more traction under power. It's nice to know the diff never has to come out again and really only for an extra $400 over the price of a steel hat upgrade.
  12. I just ordered the same twin bush kit from Independent Motorsports. Getting it fitted. My cradle will be out for the fifth time....I think this will be the last time. If this were available years ago it would have paid for itself twice over.
  13. Car: 2005 XR6T BA Mk2 Trans: 6 speed manual Turbo: stock with 12 pound actuator Boost: 18 PSI down to 17 PSI Valve springs: Atomic Cooler: Rapid intercooler with hot and cold side piping, standard inlet manifold Fueling: Herrod intank Exhaust: XForce 4" dump, 5" cat, twin 2.5" Power: 356RWKW Tuner: CV Performance XCAL4
  14. Don't know if that one is any good. I got a Speco brand kit but have not yet fitted it.....but looking like I will get some time over the next couple of weeks.....time previous to that has just been my laziness!
  15. xr_velocity

    Remsa Pads

    I have the Remsa pads on my Liberty, they are incredibly dusty, but they do stop very well from cold. They are a good medium performance pad, get a bit of heat in them and they work even better. Never had them at the track. The XR runs Ferodo 2500s which are even better again...but then they are triple the price.
  16. I am in. I enter Powercruise every year so this would be another one I would attend at the right price of course.
  17. Hmmm, tyre wear would be OK....if I had have researched Nitto recommended pressures first...I ran 35 in the last session, when they recommend 42. The first couple of times out it was up at about 40psi. I put it down because the old tyres responded well to less pressure....but these tyres responded by wearing the outer front edge...I could hear the squeal around corners....and notably more understeer the last session with less pressure. Will have the fronts refitted so the worn edge is on the inside and run 42psi next time!
  18. So I had the car out at the new Sydney Motorsport Park (renamed from Eastern Creek) after about a year break. They have done a whole heap of track building and now have different tracks as well as the original. I was on the South circuit which is the tighter more technical side of the complex. To say I was amazed after being reluctant and thinking the car would seriously struggle on the tight track is an understatement. Since last year I have fitted NItto NT05 semi slick tyres to the car. These tyres have transformed the car, the amount of grip they have in comparison the the old Falken's that were on the car is outstanding. I was very impressed with them, they only got a little squirmish well into the 20 minute session after admittedly I pushed them too far by being too aggressive. THe understeer that the car had in spades last year is nearly all gone, the car is more balanced to understeer than oversteer, but that is the safe way to go. I could turn in with confidence, if I was understeering a little I could get on the brake a little to bring the front into line and grip, braking into the hair pins became the norm and let me turn in very quickly and hit the apex. Power down and rear end grip overall is still great, with the Nittos on now it is hard to provoke oversteer without really trying to. The car is soft enough to soak up bumps and hit ripple strips without the car getting unsettled, but firm enough to sit flat through corners. The weight of the car in general makes for a bit more of s struggle around the track but it is what it is, I guess I am happy with the setup at the moment, maybe the only thing I might change is a little more camber on the front, but I need a camber kit to achieve that. Perhaps in the new year, I want to keep it as is for now. I have an engine oil cooler that I will fit before the next day in December the oil overheated each session, given it was 30+ degrees I am not suprised. Water temp is never an issue on my car, never goes past half way. Ford have done a great job with the radiator. I was running consistent 1:12 seconds which I was happy with since I had a one year break and was on a brand new circuit. I was trying to keep up with a stripped Silvia in the last session, I was about one second slower. I was happy with that. That driver was pushing like I was. Was also keeping pace with two new BMW M3s which were running semi slicks also, I was very stoked with that.
  19. xr_velocity

    Bendix Pads

    If you're going to pay $300 for pads go for Ferodo DS2500. Awesome pad whether cold or hot. The hotter they get the better they get. I have tracked them at Eastern Creek and cannot fault them.
  20. I had to order the rear Nitto NT05 275 30 19 from Big O Tyres, they are importing them for me....you can't get them in Australia! Tirerack don't sell Nitto so couldn't get them through them. Can't wait until they get here, the hook up from the rear should be much better than the Falkens. The Falken's have had their time, they're getting old and tired. Can't hold first gear anywhere now, they used to though. Second is the same deal, they just spin.
  21. On the street it feels a little firmer, though not a great deal due to the progressive rate spring I would imagine. I had to get the wheel alignment done again with the raised ride height, could only get max -1.2 camber compared to -1.7 with it lower...... But I also have fitted some Nitto NT05 tyres on the front, they have made a massive difference to front end grip compared to the ageing Falken 452s. When I eventually get to the track next year with the Nittos and firmer front springs I am not going to know exactly which changed the characteristics the most. Wish I had have done the springs before the last track day now. Overall I think it will be an improvement as it definitely feels like the front end has a lot more grip now compared to before.
  22. You're right, look at sways after springs and shocks. Sway bars are just to change understeer/oversteer tendency, more of a fine tuning aid once you have the springs and shocks where you want them. That's why race cars have adjustable roll bars in the cabin so they can dial in/out over/under steer on the fly. They certainly don't do it to make the car feel flatter in a corner.
  23. If you're getting understeer you are going too fast for the ability of the car. If you make the car more able you can go faster, no need to settle. A rear sway bar will reduce your rear end grip, do you want that when you actually like the way the rear is now? I took my rear sway bar off after I put the front 27mm on, picked up more rear end grip and a lot more front as well. Car is a lot more balanced now. Try, it, it's free.
  24. I did the front (27mm) and my car understeered like a pig with that and Lovells springs and shocks all round. Took off the rear bar and it picked up a lot of front end grip. Try with no rear bar. I picked up rear grip as well with no rear bar. Win win as far as I can see and cost me nothing to take it off. I did it with the advice of another forum member who has also done it. It can depend on the stiffness of your springs and shocks as well though so one size does not fit all. It's all experimentation. Don't think that a little roll is necessarily a bad thing either. A car that feels flatter in a corner does not necessarily have more grip than a car with a little body roll.
×
  • Create New...
'