FGeorge

Sometimes when I turn the car off and try to lock, it flashes the orange lights hut doesnt lock. to fix it, I restart the car and shut if back off. Then it oocks no problem. anyone know what the go is?

Old high school mate did it for me. He hires a dyno in Newcastle and did it there for me on a day that he already had it for a customer

Sure does. It'll do more than that this week given the weather forecast :'D rain until Thursday

No dyno sheet people but here are the deets Making 317kw on 15psi tapering down to 11psi I need to mod my flapper and actuator to hold the boost Car feels strong now with power peaking around 4500rpm Next step is dump pipe, turbo mods and may as well upgrade my turbo when I do that. Defs going for E85 next time. The car is quick now.. doesn't take much to break the law and it's obvious that if I don't take it seriously I could end up in a wreck pretty quick. Power comes on from about 3k now that the 3576 doesn't have much restricting it but feels like it falls over after 5000 rpm - manual shifting here means the next gear can continue pulling hard. I love it... For now. Obvious to me that this isn't the end, but I'll enjoy it until I get used to it (and until I learn to control this much power).

Great advice. Good plan, I'll let you know how I go

very minor inconvenience in exchange for the rest of her I'lll see what I can figure out. might just have to tape down a pillow

my 155cm wife man, gotten too used to her taller car - if I can make her more comfortable then I get to go for more falcon cruises instead of boring rav-4 drives haha "take the plug out of the drivers seat and extend it to the passenger side..." so can I have both driver and passenger (ex-driver) seat working or only one will be wired up?

I want to raise the height of my passenger seat. is there a way? do any models have an electric passenger seat? could I install a piece underneath the seat to raise the height? could I install a drivers seat and route the buttons to the left side so that it can be adjusted? any other ideas? what can be done?

This is the worst part of our lock down If they tell us we're out of lock down on a Friday, I'm there Saturday morning if this happens

Great to know with some care I should be able to enjoy 300 until I'm ready for the next big stage. Yeah no kickdown is a good one. I don't even like doing it on stock power. Feels too much like dropping the clutch in a manual which I don't do every time I want to get on it so why do it in an auto... Would rather the delay of it selecting my gear before injecting more fuel for a kickdown. I wonder if that can be tuned into the zf. I'll ask when my zf gets tuned

8-10k just on the box?! It's that how much it is now? I've been reading older threads when people were saying 3k was a rip off haha Daaamn 💰

Yeah, tune your car to make less power to make the transmission live longer. My first tune should land around the 300kw mark with the stock gt3576. I'm hoping that with some care I might just be on the lucky side and get to keep my transmission healthy until I'm ready to do the next big round. Gives me comfort to hear you've managed to hold 500kw for 25 thousand kms. What did you do to look after it?

Install a more efficient trans cooler to keep it cool

I've heard many times that 'how you drive it' will affect how long the zf will last. I can't seem to find anything about what that actually means. 1. Manually select the gear before planting it 2. Throttle it at lower RPM to limit torque 3. Back off throttle to 20% and manually shift before throttling in again Am I on the right track? Any other maxims to follow?

I do have upgraded valve springs, maybe I'm thinking about this too much then? There seem to be two opposing opinions here so how could the motor blow with the tune? Just if the sensors don't work? I'd like to be able to plant it at altitude in the snowy mountains in winter and not have a issue. Does this make the mod mandatory or can it be tuned to account for those conditions? valve springs head studs Cat x force 3.5 catback Antz stage 2 ic Kpm 1000-S walbro 460

Have had some time to digest the comments above and have spoken to another couple of tuners (all reputable). As you know, the first said I must fix the turbo. Second said it doesn't matter but easier to tune with it done and third said not to bother. I'm wondering, having done some more research, the worst part of this is running too lean. Would a closed circuit tune not be able to account for that? I've got 1000-s kpm injectors and a 460walbro so surely they'll have enough left in them to shoot more fuel in should the conditions start leaning out? Is this logic sound or nah? (For those who wish to share their mind stuff)

Hahaha just trust in the Barra to survive

Gaz, I'm asking a theoretical question aided by fake numbers (as edited above), of course he doesn't know the exact numbers, that's dumb. He said that there exists a max psi that the small turbo can hit (18psi... Maybe bjc was being sarcastic like you, I dunno. 🌴 Throwing you some shade). I'm being curious, this is a cool topic after all. So if there is a maximum psi that can be achieved, then is that because there is a limit to small turbo psi and a max wastegate relief? then it follows that there is a limit to max actual boost (max turbo psi less max wastegate relief). You mean you think I'll ghost you and not post my Dyno sheet when it's done? Guilty until proven innocent hey? Haha

Bjc, are you saying 18 because of some logic around: Max overboosted psi from turbo mechanically possible is say 24psi and stock wastegate can attenuate 6psi, hence max possible is 18? Wondering then if the earlier comments about going over 18 psi are down to a gauge reading psi incorrectly? What makes you sure that it will max at 18?

I feel like the jigsaw puzzle is coming together now. I imagine that bigger core would mean the boost comes on a little later. Is there a big difference? I like how quickly the baby turbo spools when driving around the place

With a cabin remote button to block the screamer opening for inspections

Oh god, now I understand. I see the light. It's just a bigger butthole to allow enough extra boost out. I'm sure there's a power mod we can do to the turbo though, no? That's probably why I'm confused. I'll check on that pulsar turbo though. I'm only at 80k kms so I may be able to sell my turbo and get a new one for fk all extra

I'm so glad I opened this thread. Does anyone know a good mechanic who can rip out my turbo in the sydney region? It appears to be a full on job and I want to make sure it's done correctly. Since we're on the topic, flapper mod... What kind of power levels does it unlock on 98 with the stock fg baby turbo?

Thank you El Andrew I reckon I'll do the mod to be safe but I'll still do research because I'm finding this to be very interesting. Plus, I bet understanding the way the turbo works will make the turbo noises all the more arousing

So to summarise my understanding, flapper and wastegate critical for bigger turbos. Stock fg turbo may not need it and largely appears to come down to the tune. However, it is advisable to get the flapper mod done so as to limit danger to the motor and turbo, and provide more reliable psi across cold nights and hot days. Am I understanding correctly? Then, would it make sense that by tuning the psi to a moderate level it will allow spikes on cold nights without damage? Or is the issue that these psi spikes are 'unexpected' so the motor runs lean? Would running my injectors under capacity allow them to compensate for this or am I just dreaming?