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Frank Castle 85

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  1. Hahaha if your builder is human, mistakes can happen. 🤣🤣🤣🤣 I was told this common problem was rare. Then when searching the internet I’ve come across a lot, had discussions like this thread which confirms that I’ve done everything prior to locking the cams. Locking the cams does fix the issue, just no one in the tuner world can give me a definite answer if this is a bandaid solution or an actual fix, for that reason alone, that’s why I bought an NA head. Parts are cheap, so then it’ll be over 10.5-11k on this issue. Haha :(((( Keep me posted on how yours turns
  2. I believe it’s the cam caps, check to see if there’s scoring. If they’re not on correctly and in order they’ll ruin your day. I’ve spent a further 8.9k diving deep into this. So I bought an NA head and changing over the exhaust valves, springs, with new headstuds and then chucking it on. But waiting on parts to arrive. I’m not taking anything from my Turbo head and not using the same headstuds. I’ve changed absolutely everything lol. Except the head. I believe I’ll be able to unlock the timing and this issue will be fixed, but won’t know until the head is completed.
  3. Once I can get back to a laptop that can read the Haltech, I’ll provide such info for you. Apple laptops aren’t really that friendly with Haltechs unless I’m extra special lol.
  4. I locked the timing and wallah, fixed the stalling issue. Car ran no problems at all... for a little bit haha just a little rattle now, I'll explain below, nothing major. I bought an NA head, which I'm going to build up instead of transferring from the turbo head. Going to buy a new set of Valve Springs and Turbo exhaust Valves, maybe cams but at this stage, happy to keep stock cams. Even though I made sure all the galleries were clear of debris in the OG head, I can't confirm if the gaps are correct or out. So, instead of wasting time, I'm doing what I mentioned above. I do have
  5. Cheers bro! What cooler did you go? I’ll see if PWR make one. Running their Stepped intercooler and back in summer, heat soak was 38 degrees.
  6. 20 Bro. After speaking with a guy down in Melbs, he said the gap in the bearing, but when I explained this happened with the stock bottom end, just before the build, he suggested to run 20-50 and see what happens and likelihood the pump has failed. But yeah man, this is a proper headache. This phone call didn't happen until after the conversation on here was already started. **EDIT** Just FYI, the oil pump has had Atomic gears in it for a while now. Buuuuut, the guy just north of Brisbane could've f**ked that too. Fingers crossed this is all it is.
  7. I've done everything has said, checked off exactly what he has said, he has been a jet with other info. Even reverting to a basic map on the stock ECU and Haltech with minor adjustments. Hence why I reached out to this thread, to see if anyone had blocked off their phasers and what had happened - to see if it's a good or bad thing. I haven't heard many people doing it, so I thought, to jump on a proper forum and not the trolled Club FG page. I'm not accusing anyone of not knowing how to build an engine, I'm not the first and definitely not the last to ask as this is a rare thing to happen. Onc
  8. I appreciate all your info man. Over the next day or two, I’ll be placing 20-50 oil in and seeing if there’s an issue with my oil pump. We rewired the loom from the phaser to the ECU and there was nothing wrong with the loom or phasers or cam adjusters as they’re all new (which people have failed to read - except you). So there could be a gap problem with the bearings (which can’t be the case as this was happening with stock internals prior to build). So this leaves me with possible oil pump failure. The oil pump has all the atomic gear in there, but because it was fitted by an incom
  9. And what happen when you did mate? I've been considering this or ordering Atomic Cam adjusters, just that's another 600 lol
  10. Yeah did all that, my mechanic was there for everything as well. Thought I'd turn to a place that's been helpful in the past with a wealth of knowledge and see if anyone encountered a similar problem and how they fixed it. In the OG post, I did mention that the Tuner didn't charge me for any of their work as they couldn't fix it and they had the car for two weeks. The tuner is a reputable tuner and race car builder that's been in the game for 30 years. So, I'm at an end and seeing if anyone has down a VCT delete and how the car reacted after the delete.
  11. Ah gotcha, nope, was done by a tuner here in Brisbane.
  12. Hey mate, that's what I've explained. Replaced the exhaust side then swapped it with the intake side and still did the same issue. I'm about one more ice mocha away from burning it lol
  13. Hey folks, Does anyone have an idea what could possibly be throwing my timing out so bad from pos 17 to neg 57 when getting to temp and idling it chokes the car out to stall? I've replaced, ECU with Haltech, replaced the Cam phaser on the exhaust side (from one of the codes throwing up saying that was that - wasn't, swapped it to intake side and still did the same thing), changed all cam sensors with brand new ones. But yet, for some reason, we can't figure out why the car at idle retards the timing so bad, earth straps are all in their right locations. The tuner had m
  14. Cheers mate. Haha, that's it hey, finishes without breaking. Yeah after the info in this post, I bought a GFB fuel reg and see how that goes. Been looking into twin pump surge tanks. Not sure if I need it or not as I don't skid it, haven't tracked it yet; however, very keen for roll racing. Will do, gives me a lot of homework to read up on, which is a great thing. Thanks mate !
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