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Frank Castle 85

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Frank Castle 85 last won the day on January 12

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  1. Hey all, Has anyone moved the Haltech or ECU's from the engine bay to inside their car? Or What ways have you kept temps down around on your, like did you raise the back of the bonnet, used computer fans to keep it cool? Sorry if this topic has been discussed, did search the internet prior to posting. Thanks in advance.
  2. That shop has now been closed and for legal reason I cannot mention. The head OG head was cooked. The Cam Caps and journals were f**ked, this was found out after buying a new head.
  3. Alrighty all, here's the update: So, I finally got around to fixing the engine. As I mentioned earlier, I slapped a new head on, all the bells and bigger whistles put into it, blah, blah, blah. Now, on Sunday just been (9th of Jan 2022), I pulled the rocker cover off to see if I had somehow placed the cams in the wrong way, I didn't, next thing I checked was the timing, I rotated the engine over 34 times to get it bang on. On inspection of the crank sprocket, the mark on the chain was one tooth out, so it had skipped. The second thing I noticed was the intake cam was in the correct position at 12 o'clock and the exhaust cam was at the 11 o'clock position. So this explains everything, fixed it and guess what, the car runs like it did prior to the inept mechanic who put three valves springs upside down ( I text him once a month asking, "How?" HAHA). So, the timing retarding issue has finally been fixed and sounds like the former glory. Next problem, when the thermo fans come on the car would either switch off or run real rough not like in the lame ghost cam way - worse. The Haltec was throwing all kinds of codes mainly cruise control codes. Couldn't work out why. All by accident, I placed my hand on my Haltec and f**k me, I could cook bacon and eggs on it. Found the setting on the laptop and it was telling me the Haltec was at 80 degrees. Got an air blower straight onto it and it cooled down rather quickly. After four hours of trying to get the car stated it, just wouldn't. Continued drinking and had a good night. The next day on the phone to Haltec and well, the legends they are, are the legends the are. Fixed everything via remote login. The Haltec is being sent back, they're do their magic and once I get the Haltec back then bammmmm straight onto the dyno for a tune. Once again, thank you for everyones input over the time/ length of this post. I took all comments in and it reassured me, everything I was doing was correct and believe it or not, it pointed me in the right direction when I took your comment on board. A long and costly process, but never-the-less, great outcome. Thought I would update and hope this post and comment/s helps those that are ever chasing a similar issue/ problem.
  4. Yeah, I’m currently running at 3584 was at 27psi, was told it was 24, gauge and inept tuner could be well out haha. Next year, I’ll probably go 6Boost manifold for wank factor and a G40 or G45 but only if my current turbo sh*ts the bed.
  5. Wicked man. If I end up needing to replace my HG again, I'll look down this avenue that you're doing. When I pulled the head off last time, the Cosmetic HG looked like it was in great condition and could use again. But it was only $245 but, the latest advice I got was to go back to stock. This comes from a guy that builds barra's in the south part of Brissy. He says he runs them in the 700-800hp cars with no issues, whether I am being fed sh*t again who knows. My original goal when I bought this car was 600-650 reliable HP. When this car is finally up and running, it'll be my weekender. Just want to chop more R8 clubby's haha
  6. Yeah, this is the first time I've had a stock head gasket in. A little wary but hey, it's only coil cover, cam sensors unplug, coolant temp unplug intake bolts, turbo return line unbolt from sump, exhaust manifold bolts, dip stick, belt and pulley's, harmonic balancer, crank angle sensor, rocker cover, timing chain cover, timing chain, cam caps, cams, headstud nuts washers and headstuds with head removal, then basically in reverse for a simple gasket change HAHAHA! All g my man, it probably explains the start of my post cause I was being pulled in so many different directions. Huge learner curve; however, it brought me to this forum which I'm thankful for. A lot of great input from all directions.
  7. Yeah man 100%. The problem is, my car went to a 'shop' on the Sunny Coast and some how that absolute legend put three valve springs upside down which caused two bent valves and a cracked ringlet. I was none the wiser and drove the car around for three weeks and then on the highway lost compression and yep cylinder three gone. Went to another shop in Brisbane and the people that skimmed it and replaced the two bent valves. Thought it was fixed - wasn't. So I spent the next few months honing the block for oversized pistons upgraded all the rods etc etc. I was chasing and replacing everything the scanners were saying was the fault, phasers, sensors and ECU. Whatever needed to be replaced was replaced with highly recommended parts. I thought since the engine was out, I'd upgrade the drive/tail shaft, clutch etc etc. I had my car towed away from that shop and started pulled the engine apart again. Replaced the head and wallah, retardation solved. But yeah as mentioned, happy the car starts and can drives but limited and that's obviously because of the base map. Looking forward to the surge tanks (there some bloody options there) and seeing what I can put down. Not going for 1000hp but if I hit somewhere between 500-700hp and be completely safe I'm fine with that.
  8. Hey mate, To be honest man, Just want a nice reliable car now. I got the Haltech for cheap as sh*t. The only thing stock on this engine are the cams, lifters and crank. I don't plan on driving it until it's tuned. Currently got a Walbro 460 with Bosch 1000cc, plan is to add possible add a surge tank. To give you an idea what's done to this car, the only thing stock is the gearbox, diff and axles.
  9. Yeah man, I believe so, wishful thinking haha. Should be good as gold.
  10. Alrighty, So update time. This maybe all over the shop. As we all know, my car was retarding from POS19 to NEG57. After sourcing another head and waiting for 2 months for it to be done. I have finally resolved the issue. When I pulled off the OG cams there was lots of scoring under the exhaust side. This to me was the issue as everything else had been replaced. I got the car currently on a Haltech base map, the only issue now is the car stalls after about 20 minutes of driving or on the occasion it coughs and splatters on start up - no DTC's. Hopefully the tune will fix this. I understand base maps are basically to get your car to tuners, not for continuous driving. With the new head it was off an FG NA. I replaced the Exhaust valves. I did not bring any of the crow cam valve springs from the previous head, nothing from the head came across, all new sh*t. Old head V New head. Crow Cam Valve Springs - Crow Cam Valve Springs with retainers (the big boys) Plazmaman Head studs - Obitorque with oversized washers Atomic timing chain kit - Kept the kit removed the Atomic timing chain tensioner and went back to stock Cosmetic head gasket - stock This morning, I replaced the fuel filter, the car ran heaps better. I also have a suspicion that the regulator maybe dead or very close, I've got a GFB one to chuck on, its the only thing I don't know how to do. I've checked for any possible air leaks, but none to report back. Car is running on Nulon 10w40 maybe I need to go back to 20w60.
  11. Great to hear you got it all sorted! Hows the car running now?
  12. Hahaha if your builder is human, mistakes can happen. 🤣🤣🤣🤣 I was told this common problem was rare. Then when searching the internet I’ve come across a lot, had discussions like this thread which confirms that I’ve done everything prior to locking the cams. Locking the cams does fix the issue, just no one in the tuner world can give me a definite answer if this is a bandaid solution or an actual fix, for that reason alone, that’s why I bought an NA head. Parts are cheap, so then it’ll be over 10.5-11k on this issue. Haha :(((( Keep me posted on how yours turns out.
  13. I believe it’s the cam caps, check to see if there’s scoring. If they’re not on correctly and in order they’ll ruin your day. I’ve spent a further 8.9k diving deep into this. So I bought an NA head and changing over the exhaust valves, springs, with new headstuds and then chucking it on. But waiting on parts to arrive. I’m not taking anything from my Turbo head and not using the same headstuds. I’ve changed absolutely everything lol. Except the head. I believe I’ll be able to unlock the timing and this issue will be fixed, but won’t know until the head is completed.
  14. Once I can get back to a laptop that can read the Haltech, I’ll provide such info for you. Apple laptops aren’t really that friendly with Haltechs unless I’m extra special lol.
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