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Bionic Beast

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Everything posted by Bionic Beast

  1. Nice necro haha. I don't exactly know man. I would guess just unplugging the solenoid would throw a code all the time. Maybe you have a faulty solenoid? If your car is tuned get the tuner to turn it off and throw it all in the bin. (Weight reduction! Yay!) if not you can try replacing the solenoid.
  2. I've got an intercooler sprayer running from the tank, would be helpful to know when its empty so I''m not running the pump dry. Cant exactly see it while I''m driving can I? And what''s it to you what I do with my car. Idc if you think its a waste of time, I want it.
  3. Yes you are right, I need a "high series" Cluster. The clusters that got paired with the colour screen ICC's. Since you loose the trip functions on the cluster to the ICC ford put door ajar diagram (shows you exactly what door is open), a PRND/ what gear you are in while tiptronic is engaged light and the washer bottle sensor. If you flick through your owners manual to the instrument section you can see the screens detailed better. I also found out if you remove the insert of your cup holder its made to hold milk drink cartons, finally somewhere to put my FUIC , whoever knew reading that manual was helpful That sucks for me since I've already gotten my "low series" Cluster modified and don't feel like paying again... Thanks for the tip off of different clusters though
  4. Im wanting to install one on my BF as it has the connector hanging there for it. I tried activating the light (before wasting money ob the sensor) but no matter what I did, crossing the pins, sending them 12v, grounding them ect I could not get it to show up. So was I doing something wrong? Was that plug not even for the sensor? (It definitely wasn't the 2nd motor plug) It was the ones that were plugged into each other. Or is it something ridiculous like the cluster has to be programmed for it or it doesn't even have the light?
  5. Hey all, I'm currently building an engine and wanting to use the stock boost control system however I'm not a huge fan of the weak plastic stems on the factory solenoid. Has anyone upgraded to this one? Ill 99% most likely be getting her tuned by JetTurbo. But if this solenoid is no good what are your recommendations? TYIA https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/114152632896?epid=610389904&hash=item1a9406f240:g:TwoAAOSwoyleca-Z
  6. Hey all so I'm about to install a turbo timer in my BF, I know wits not necessary but anyway, for all the features of the one I have I need to connect it to the "speed signal wire". Now my guess would be its a wire going back into the cluster however I'm not sure which one. I'm also worried thinking maybe its not that simple and it goes through the CAN system and ford made it overly complicated like they have most wiring's in these cars. Does anyone know how simple or difficult this would be? And does anyone have pinout diagrams for the plugs on the cluster? If not where could I get a VSS signal from? Any help is much appreciated. TYIA
  7. So remove everything plus the charcoal canister then let it vent to atmo at the rear of the car? Lastly will it decrease fuel economy like I was told? idk much in that area
  8. Okay so here is a better explanation. I was removing all that NA Butterfly vacuum crap in the diagram. I have also removed the PVC valve from the top of the engine since I am running a catch can. Now the hole under the map sensor is only supplying vacuum to the circled fuel vapour purge solenoid. So I thought I would move it to the now spare vacuum nipple next to the fuel reg and block off the hole under the map to neaten everything up. I snapped the manifold side of the solenoid and can no longer attach a hose to supply vacuum to said solenoid.... So, do I now unplug the solenoid, remove the line all the way back to the charcoal canister remove that and then run a hose from the fuel tank breather to somewhere towards the back of the car (near the diff breather maybe?) Or do I get a new solenoid and attach it like I was going to? If I remove everything will it cause any error codes or mess with anything? I have also been told having it purge into the manifold helps with fuel economy.. is that true? I don't want to make my already garbage econ worse 😂. Lastly if I remove it all do I leave the solenoid plugged in or unplug it and let the wire hang? I will be getting this tuned (Ill Most likely bring it to you Jet!) once it is all completed with a built engine... If that helps figuring this out. Cheers for any help
  9. Ah legend, Everything was straight forward from there. I never would've had the guts to pull that hard without knowing.
  10. So I'm currently converting my BF from NA to turbo and I was removing the intake butterfly along with the excess vacuum lines, canister and such. Also since I will be running a catch can I removed the two breathers from the rocker cover. Then I had the "Genius" Idea to block the hole under the map sensor since its only supplying vacuum to the solenoid and reroute the purge valve solenoids vacuum line to the now spare vacuum nipple next to the Fuel regulator. In my genius moment I snapped the manifold sides nipple off the solenoid and cant get the other side off to replace it.... So my question is. Could I just let it purge to atmosphere and deal with the fuel smell or will it affect anything? I'm happy to answer questions and post pictures/videos if you find my crappy explanation hard to understand. TYIA
  11. I've looked in countless threads on how but I cant find anything. The only one that comes close has broken pictures. I have an F6 gauge pod I'm trying to put aftermarket gauges in but I cant for the life of me figure out how to take out the stock ones. I've removed the four little screws from underneath but nothing will budge. It looks like there is screws behind the silver ring at the back but those wont budge either and I don't want to break it... Any help is appreciated.
  12. Yeah, any knob with the same thread will just screw on no worries.
  13. I just recently found out the G6E's have auto dimming rear view mirrors. Just wondering if its at all possible to fit these into a BF XR? Even if the loom isn't plug and play is the mirror mounting the clips the same and an auto sparkie could wire it up? Cheers for any help
  14. Cheers for the advice mate, I've already put in a turbo cradle and lsd and a t56 box. Now doing the motor. I plan on buying internals and turbo bolt ons too, ie the intake manifold. Plus imo it's more fun converting this then just slapping a turbo motor in
  15. Ive had too many people tell me to sell and buy a turbo when that's not what I want to do. that's far from the advice im asking for
  16. So Im piecing together parts for a turbo conversion on my NA BF (idfc what you think its my car not yours). I am currently running stock cat and headers but a mid hotdog and a rear straight pipe, all 2.5inch so standard size. I am just wondering if it will be enough flow if I just take it to an exhaust shop and get them the fix up a pipe to connect the stock dump to the NA cat and the rest of my system instead of forking out for a turbo exhaust. Cheers for any input.
  17. Get a LSD first and foremost. BF diffs will fit your fg but not Ba (obviously FG diffs will also fit but that shouldnt need be said). High flow cat and headers will help loads. Look around if you can find a second had CAI. I picked up a growler and custom piping for $200. Also save a bit of money for a 20% underdrive pulley. A tune after all that would tie it all in nicely but holding off till you get a turbo is purely up to how much money you are willing to throw at it, because no matter what it will need to be tuned or re-tuned once you get a turbo.
  18. Hey, I'm looking to buy a short shifter for my BF t-56. I've found 2 possible ones I would like but haven't found any solid info comparing the two or what one is respectively better? Malwoods short shifter:https://malwoodauto.com.au/product/ultimate-street-short-throw-shifter-to-suit-ba-bf-t56/ or Rip Shifter:https://www.tuffcarparts.com.au/ba-bf-ford-falcon-6-cyl-v8-6-speed-manual-ripshift Any blokes who've tried both and preferred one over the other or any negatives with either? Cheers for any help!
  19. Here is a video of the issue I'm having if it is any help....
  20. Its not the knob that's spinning that's still stuck on tight. Its the two piece shaft... Ive had a peek and there doesn't seem to be any threads (or ruined ones) Just a smooth shaft glues into a larger one. But if you still think that's the case then looks like I'm off to the wreckers or fraud
  21. Hey everyone. So I was trying to remove the stock shift knob to replace the boot to no avail. However I did notice some movement but it wasn't from the knob. I've seemed to of broken the silicon or glue holding the smaller shift shaft into the thicker one (sorry I don't know the proper names). Now the two shafts rotate freely with little effort about not 360 but a fair good distance. Have I f*cked it and I need to buy a new stick or is there some way to fix it? Cheers
  22. hmm, hopefully someone chimes in and sheds some light. As of right now I'm thinking maybe the BF NA/turbo had the same PCM just the NA didn't use the turbo section/loom. Cheers for the help though
  23. Hey mate, Surely that's not right, I had a look and no turbo loom like you said just the main fuse box loom running along the back of the front chassis bar and straight into the fusebox. I also had a look at my mates NA BF and he has 3 plugs and looms too. Maybe they changed them from ba to bf?
  24. Ah okay, The PCM has 3 plugs but so does the one on my NA BF, Is it just the unused turbo loom? So the one I have is definitely BF, just not sure or turbo or not now....
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