Lithfkn
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Posts posted by Lithfkn
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Update on this. Turned out to be the gears and pins inside the LSD being super slack, there was a tonne of play. The clutches were surprisingly good. New unit in and all good now, not one clunk/knock in the back and feels super tight. Shout out to Mobile Diff Repairs in Dandenong.
Do have a knock though putting the car into reverse and changing from 1st to 2nd, sometimes 2nd to 3rd. Have a feeling the lowered leafs have thrown out the pinion angle or tailshaft making the centre bearing bump because of the flex in the shaft.
What have you guys done to fix this?
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On 07/02/2016 at 10:48 AM, FPVF6355 said:
It's been a while but thought Id update this.
Rollover noise came back and got worse over time.
Did some more searching and found some info on driveline fault diagnosis.
''If you put your foot on the clutch pedal slightly and the rattle noise disappears it is NOT the transmission, it is the clutch''
I Also found separately that concentric slave cylinder bearings always make some light pressure on the clutch fingers.
Anyway If I put slight pressure on the clutch pedal (very light) the thing is dead silent
I looked at the clutch master cylinder and found it has a hole at 90 degrees to the piston like a jacking screw was meant to be there, or at least a provision for one.
I used an M6 x 35 bolt and 2 nuts and adjusted the pedal to just starting to make pressure in the cylinder (only just enough to take up any slack in the CSC) and surprisingly the clutch pedal and brake pedal now line up exactly and the switch attached to the pedal is still within working range and any rollover noise is gone completely,
I am using a twin plate aftermarket PBR clutch that came with CSC and flywheel, it probably needs a corrective shim to set the CSC tolerance properly, instead of doing what I did. But same result.
Sorry for thread mining but does anyone have any more info on this? My roll over noise disappears too when I slightly push the clutch in to line up with the brake pedal. I can't seem to find where this hole is to put a bolt through on the master cylinder. Has anyone got a pic perhaps?
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it comes from the rear left predominantly , might be just a quirk of the car, it's been happening for the whole 8 months since I bought it. Naturally I didn't notice it when I test drove it as I had rose tinted glasses from that turbo whistle 😂
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In the rear it's doing it. Haven't even touched the front yet 😂
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So I got Suspension City to have a good look over it and identified there wasn't enough grease in the front eye bushes. They slapped some in and off she went. Awesome blokes to deal with too, so helpful and quick. Did it on the spot. They also mentioned that the springs winding up like that were normal! Bugger me.
I'm getting the odd knock here and there when slow turning. Buggered if I know what it is!
Thanks all for the help!
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Fixed two really annoying squeaks in the centre console lid and in the dash cluster. 3 or 4 more to go 😭
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Thanks legend. Yours definitely look more "together" if that makes sense and with better camber. Probably a product of that rebound leaf.
Did you use those black crush plate washers when you got the leafs? I didn't install them in mine, wasn't even sure where to put them exactly! Did you put grease between the poly pads and leafs?
Sorry for bugging you mate, just trying to work out what is wrong with mine as it's looking pretty similar to yours!
On 27/02/2020 at 9:50 PM, Admin (as if) said:yer ive got the same king leafs, and took a photo and sent to Jeturbo years ago as I was worried the same as you.
kings said its normal.
does look funky but oh well.
Everyone is saying it's normal haha It's just the creaking/clunking I can't get my head around!
On 27/02/2020 at 10:25 PM, k31th said:you've got to share stuff on this forum
not just ask advise off one person all the time haha
Agreed. I lurk too much, have for years until I bought one and only think to post when it's pi$$ing me off haha
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The old springs tramped like crazy.
Haven't put these to the test yet as I'm just a bit worried about how they sit. Had quite a few people say that's how theirs are but a couple mobs say they look way over loaded.
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Thanks mate.
The springworks joint suggested a rebound but that's an extra 600 odd to reset the leafs and put a rebound in, almost double what I paid for the HD leafs!
I had poly bushes in the standard leafs and they never creaked. Only carried on a little when the ubolts weren't FT.
It's a manual.
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Any reason why it'd be clunking/creaking so bad mate?
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Just installed some brand new kings leafs in my ute. FOR303SL. I noticed that the back has a nice arch but at the diff they pull upwards then they curve the other way. I'm getting a bit of knocking from them. I took it to a suspension workshop in Geelong and he said the front camber is pretty off making the ends open up and clap. I gave a springworks mob a call in Melbourne and sent the bloke some pics and he said they look fully loaded like theres 400kg in the back and suggested a rebound leaf to pull the camber in better. Already paid for heavy duty performance leafs, don't really want to pay extra to "fix" them. I got straight onto Kings and they can't see any issue with it so I'm kind of stumped at the moment.
Has anyone seen this before?
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On 31/10/2019 at 7:11 PM, JasonHyde said:
I have a FG MKII NA Ute doing the same sort of sounds. Multiple clunks on acceleration and a single clunk -sometimes- on decel. Doesn't happen when car is cold, and happens a lot if I'm in traffic moving at 20-40kph. have 68k on the clock and have had the sound for a fair while now. Finally took it to a mechanic the other week to which they checked over the whole thing and didn't find an issue other than "it's your leaf springs". He didn't really have an idea as to why they were causing a sound in particular. When listening it definitely does seem like it's coming from the springs on drivers side, but at the same time the clunk on takeoff isn't just a single clunk, it will go sort of CLUNK-clunkclunkclunkclunk sometimes. Also noticed sometimes when pulling up to a light slowly, the closer I get to stopping I get a clunk..clunk...clunk.....clunk. It's really weird and hard to replicate. Also you can hear a thunk in the rear when going over a speed bump or a decent bump in the road, almost like something is bouncing in the tray. Haven't tried much yet apart from getting the diff oil changed, which did nothing. If anything the noise got slightly a bit worse in traffic. Maybe I'm thinking them having the springs fully unloaded on the lift made it worse somehow? I have no idea. I'm pretty useless with cars if I'm honest but I'm learning a hell of a lot in the process of trying to find the cause and solution to this. Going to check everything is tight underneath, despite the mechanics saying everything is tight and nothing is worn. Might try to put something between the springs or something. Bleh.
Does yours have an LSD?
Mine is definitely most noticeable from the passenger side wheel area but will sometimes get the double clunk. I got the centre bearing done and that eliminated some things but the rear clunk is still there.
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Thanks mate. If you happen to remember or find out could you hit me up? I'm reading a lot about clutch plates knocking.
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Thanks
Was it the clutches/plates in the diff that were buggered?
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I bit the bullet and threw in some solid steel saddle bushes and it hasn't made a difference to the sounds. I did notice that between each leaf through the middle there are steel plates, maybe 1mm thick. That's what's causing the illusion that there is gaps in the leafs. Is it normal that they have these thin plates through the middle? My mates leafs are completely sandwiched together.
Also noticed when jacking the rear up the wheel has some back and forth movement, a couple mm. But not in and out. Is this just the slack in the diff/gears?
Also got a centre bearing as that has collapsed from the top.
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Thanks mate
Do you have a pic of this setup?
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What did you put in its place? Steel saddle pads?
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I reckon so. I can get some solid leaf saddle bushes from a bloke in QLD but that'll cost a bit. And I'm not convinced it'll fix the problem just yet. I feel like it needs a solid plate under and on top to pull them together more.
So I caught up with a mate who has an FG xr6 turbo ute and we compared leafs
These are his:
These are mine:
They look like two completely different leaf packs?
His has a steel plate between the leafs and saddle bush.
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So I've thinking about the gaps in the leafs and was wondering if anyone else's are like this? It doesn't look like they're clamping down firm enough? The top two have gaps but the bottom three look tight. Could this be the centre pin come loose maybe?
I noticed the non xr utes have a different setup, two steel plates and no u bolt housing:
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The car is dead stock except for the superpro stuff and konis and the knock was there before I changed everything. Definitely not the exhaust hitting. Its a very audible clunk from the wheel zone.
I know the bearing is starting to flog out, I can hear it wobbling at low speeds and get the driveline clunk/shunt if I don't try and really control it.
Been to pedders twice and they've just tried to upsell me. And the driveline joint was stumped.
Is it possible that the center bolt in the leafs has come loose? Is that a thing?
I'm in Geelong so Melbourne isn't too far away for me. Centreline in thomo is probably the closest out of those. I'm almost convinced its something with the leafs.
What centre bearing did you put in?
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I've checked wheel movement and all good in that area. Like I said I don't get any vibration or noises while driving, it's all on that initial take off and around really slow corners. I must say mine generally won't when cold but once its been for a good run like on a highway the driveline feels really slack and the rear knocks are petty loud.
There are tonnes of posts on here about this issue but no one has come back and given their solution haha
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Was thinking about doing that. I'll have to find one to try out
I pulled the spare out and tried laying under it with a creeper while my old man slowly moved forward, he was a little iffy with the clutch work so gave up on the idea. Definite clunk from the wheel zone from the little chance I had while under there.
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So I wedged some bike rubber in between the front leafs and it still knocks.
I read elsewhere that the lsd clutch packs can knock on take off as they come together? People recommend changing the oil but I've done that and made no difference.
Completely lost on this now 😑
Fg turbo ute rear knocking
in UTEopia
Posted
Update on this.
Turned out the gears and pins inside the LSD were really sloppy and had a tonne of play in them. The clutches were surprisingly good. New LSD unit and now she's as tight as ever and no rear end knocks. Thanks to Mobile Diff Repairs in Dandenong for the great work.
Thanks everyone for the advise and help 👌