Joel0201

Ok sweet just trying to work out before I splash on new rims, thanks mate

How does that sit in the guards once rolled? also is that a staggered set or square cheers heaps mate

BF xr6t Hey guys wanting to get some rpf1s soon or zr10s and I’m gonna be on sssl rears and double ask fronts. So I’m wondering how wide can I go and what offset will work? ive been told I’ll fit 18x9.5 around 20 offset is that correct or will I need to roll the guards? if you run rpf1 shoot up a pic with offset and width tooo! I can find so much info on fg with them but not b series. thanks guys (once I do get they I’ll post a nice pic of them on the car)

Hey guys I’m looking for some recommendations on tuning shops that work magic in the northern suburbs Ive got a bf turbo with a zf Most workshops I’ve seen listed around here are all on the other side of town (Dandenong area) if I can’t find anywhere on this side I’ll go over there though been looking at Pitlane, Casey automotive and max there all that side of town thanks guys

Hey guys I’ve got a stubborn airbag light on the car. it’s been there since I bought the car, the code points to the clock spring or drivers side airbag. I want to know is there a how to for testing the clock spring someone could point me to? or does anyone know how to do it im handy with a meter thanks so much guys

Ok that makes sense to me. I think I’m gonna give it a good going over then pay the money for a tuner to work there magic

Awesome I’ll grab the meter out and check the wiring. ill also check all of the throttle body and give it a clean too might as well. I did just get a text from the original owner the car had a high flowed turbo on it but they put a standard one back on it. Could that also be adding to the mix? Note on boost at 14 it feels pretty solid

Hey guys I have a bf turbo which has been modded and has a quite old tune. mods include cooler/injectors/pump/surge tank/3.5inch exhaust. I was told the engine could be built for big power rods ect but not sure now, my car is currently throwing up the code p0236 and p0237 could this be in the tune or should I replace the boost sensor (is the a way to measure the boost sensor?) could this be a map related issue?? also The car seams to run fine boost to 14psi no dramas however when I am sitting at lights or the car is left on idle it seams to hunt like rmp jumps up and down slightly thank you guys

Didn’t even think of that, I’ll go check it right now 😍 Sweet mate I’m gonna give it ago 👌

Hey guys I bought a bf and it’s borderline 06/06 bf anyway I got told the motor was changed it does have the z9 filter meaning ba block however I was told it was built with forgies whats the best way to tell? I was told I need to drop the Kframe to take the sump off? Also do the fpv blocks have a different engine number? I just don’t want to be pumping 400kw without making sure it has been done right thank you guys

Wow mate yep that’s gone are you gonna build another zf?

I didn’t use straps on mine it was fine mate, so you should be ok. Good luck starter was a bitch on of the most annoying parts hahaha keep us posted

I had the plastic pan on mine (bf) and it was fine, I didn’t use a trans jack I used a workshop trolley with wood across it and it was fine. The plastic all over pan has a drain plug on the pan but as I understand there one use only, considering the whole pan is $90 it’s cheap insurance considering the price of the box. If your doing this on ramps may be tricky unless you have a really low trans jack. Your gonna need the extensions ahhahahha

Hey mate, the noise sounds pretty bad its not that hard to take out so save yourself some coin. I’m not to sure what that noise would be but sure could be input shaft. Even billet zf shaft would have a snapping point put enough load on anything and it will break. I guess there also the possibility something else has cause that noise (blown converter or something) I’m not sure probs a tear down job. After some small tests. Only thing I can say is make sure to drain and clean all the transcooler lines and cooler intself especially if the trans has put metal into the oil.

Hey mate, you should be able to get it on ramps if there high enough. I ended up getting use of a hoist when I did mine, the hardest part was getting the trans back in and aligned. For getting it out what I remember is: -disconnect battery -lift up car -drain the fluid out the trans. -undo tailshaft -undo starter -move the heat exchanger out the way (best time to put in a external cooler if you don’t wanna milkshake it later on) -remove trans cooler lines out the way -undo shifter linkage -disconnect gearbox electrical plugs -undo the converter bolts -loosen all the bell housing bolts a little leaving the easiest to get ones to last -support cross member undoing the bolts -lower the cross member should move a bit down. -jack the front of the engine (make sure bonnet is open) this will allow gearbox to sit on angle making it easier to get to the top bolts -once you have it on an angle use a second jack to take the weight of the trans and complete undo all the trans bolts going from hardest to reach to easiest. -release front jack and allow trans to level a little before giving it a tug and removing it. While your there and have the trans removed best time to do the rear main seal (get this from ford don’t cheap out or it will leak) You need enough room to roughly have the gearbox on a 30degree angle whilst on a jack if that gives you an idea. When I did mine I swapped the mechatroics unit over as I have heard they are programmed to the body of the car (someone might be able to confirm) if you need to do this it’s quite simple let me know and I’ll try give you acouple pointers I did reuse the new gearbox’s valve body thou. Hope that helps mate. Only a rough guide mostly there thou 👌👌