cm.

Ok so basically what I am doing anyway - that's good to know. What could be wearing for this sound to occur? Insufficient clamping force on the lock-up clutch? Is it better to take the car to ford for diagnosis or a tranny specialist?

Just and update for those wondering (likely nobody). I ended up paying ford to do the install for $700, which was cheaper than my local independent. They also found the tailshaft damper had to be replaced as well due to aged rubber (what a surprise). Cost me another ~$400 parts + labour. This car seems to be costing me $1-2k a year to keep on the road....don't know any of my Toyota mates who have these kind of issues.

So I ended up being able to use the old clip from my broken regulator and getting it to work on the new one. Window now works but will need to take it out again to return to ford.

Ok, is it worth resetting ZF adaptations? I can do it through Forscan from memory.

Thanks, When the plastic clip broke one of the wires wrapped itself around the motor due to the tension release. I had to take the motor assembly off to wrap the wires around again. Problem is I think the cables have actually compressed when the tension was released, as it seems I am about 1cm short of being able to put it back together. Anyway, I'll see what wood I have spare

Hi All, Just want to see if anyone else has had this issue before. I have a 2013 FG XR6 MK II sedan. After the tranny is warmed up, if I drive at around 70kph up a slight hill, very light throttle, I can start to hear a low rumbling noise in the transmission. If I put my foot down a bit the tranny will do a bit of a harsh shift and the noise will go away. Also seems to go away if I just increase throttle. My box has about 145,000km and I have done a full service on it (mech seal, valve seal, mech adapter, gulf western oil). I have noticed the noise for quite some time now - probably close to a year. The tranny service made it better for a little bit but seems to be coming back again. I'll take it to a ford dealer for a diagnosis but want to see if there were any opinions on here. Other than Ford, any recommended transmission shops? I'm in Perth. Cheers,

Hi All, I have a FG MK II XR6 an and my drivers side power window regulator broke the other day. When I pulled it out I found that the cable had rusted and snapped.... Anyway, I bought a genuine replacement from ford (~$200). When I installed it and ran it up/down a few times, the plastic glide broke.... Is this a known/common problem? Ford dealer parts shop is of course not open today so now I have to figure out how to get my window to stay up with a broken regulator while I wait for them to open on Monday (Any ideas how to achieve this???) Apart from just unbolting the old regulator and bolting in the new one, I didn't see anything in the workshop manual about resetting anything for the power windows, or needing to "relearn" the up/down limits. Any help would be appreciated.... especially how to get my window to stay closed so I can drive to work 😞

Finally got the service done, took me absolutely ages. Took the mechatronics unit out and changed all the sleeves as well. Oil was a very dark brown at 135000km. Gulf western smells horrible hah. Ended up buying a new steel pan with the sump plug rather than retro-fitting to the stock pan, glad I did as dropping the oil without a plug is very messy. Thanks for everyone's help - especially that Gulf Western, as that alone probably saved me about $400 on oil. Shifts a bit better but hard to say, haven't driven it enough yet to tell. Biggest thing I'm hoping for is resolving an occasional hard shift issue between 5th and 6th gear (both up and down). It tends to do this once the transmission temp is over 80C and I'm driving on a long stretch at about 70kmh. Anyone else had this issue at all?

Thanks - any particular ELM327 unit in mind? From my reading it seems like the unit will also need to support MS-CAN? Thanks - any particular ELM327 unit in mind? From my reading it seems like the unit will also need to support MS-CAN?

Not sure why I can't edit my original post, but looking online, seems OBDLink MX+ and Forscan would suit my needs? MX+ allows iOS connectivity which is cool. Pretty expensive for the MX+ though, is there any alternative?

Hi All, Just want to get an idea on what OBD II scanner to get for my FG MK II XR6 with the ZF. I'll be serving my transmission soon and will need to get temp readings from the tranny. I have bought an IR gun but want to cross-check with the internal sensor (who knows how accurate it is). I currently have a iphone and laptop so need a OBD2 scanners that will work with them. I have looked at the cheap ones on ebay but not sure of the quality and if there is something more recommended for the FG Falcons - especially regarding the 6 speed ZF. Also want to know what software is recommended. I've seen Torque mentioned a lot, but not iphone compatible? Any other alternatives? Can the bluetooth scanners connect to laptops? Any information appreciated. Looking for as cheap as possible that does the job. Cheers,

Ok so I have a couple weeks off over the xmas period that I'll use to tackle the job. I'm pretty cheap but I'm looking at what bushes to get and would appreciate any recommendations: My priority is lowest NVH that will last a while and cost the least. From what I can see, my options are: - No-name ebay: ~$100 - Genuine Ford: ~$150 - SuperPro Hybrid: $270 I'm thinking I'll go genuine ford, might last another 100k km at which point I doubt I'll even have the car.

In Perth

True, but my understanding is that this wasn't as good as using one of the machines at the workshop. I guess if you drop the pan enough it's probably about the same..

Thanks for the tips everyone - I think my best option at this stage is to get 20L of gulf western and take it to a transmission shop to get flushed. I don't have the equipment for a full flush so I'll leave it to the experts for this one and then do the change myself next time - should still be some oil left from 20L.

I also have a steel pan so that isn't too much of an issue. Some of you guys are using gulf western oil... is that for the 6hp26? Everything I have read seems to indicate it needs the genuine oil - Lifegard 6 which costs about $45/L on ebay or $80/L from the two dealers I called. They must have gold flakes in this stuff or something. If I don't have to pay $300 just for the oil each service I could do it more often.

There is no way I can justify doing it annually - the zf oil is just too expensive. I'll be looking to do it now at ~ 130,000km, then every 40-50k after that.

I was shopping around the dealers for prices of oil for my 6sp auto zf - all of them were willing to sell to me at the low low price of $80/L lol, so I'll be going the eBay route. My car has 127,000 km on it and has never had the zf serviced. I'm planning to keep the car for a while so changing a lot of the fluids at the moment. One of the dealers told me not to bother servicing the car as the sludge build up could be holding the transmission together. I'm a bit of a granny driver but the car was previously a rental and I bought it at 89,000km about 3 years ago. Any opinions on the fluid change? I know Ford says "sealed for life" but I am very skeptical so say the least, from what I have read zf recommend changing the oil between 80,000-100,000 in certain "circumstances". Is 127,000km too long for a service change?

Thanks for the tip regarding the wood + castors, I was brainstorming something like that actually but thought with the castors that clearance might be an issue. So I guess that solves one issue - the other is how do I lower and raise the IRS safely without risk of it tipping over? I've thought of maybe buying a cheap second jack from gumtree and lowering slowly from both sides? This will be a one man job though so could be a bit of a fk around. After the job is done I'll sell the jack again.

Thanks - I thought about the method regarding jacking up the cradle, however my question is how? If I lower the IRS with the jack... how do I then get it off the jack and slide it out without risking it tipping over. Same with reverse - how do I slide the the jack under the IRS, then slide the IRS under the car and jack the thing up without risking it falling over and damaging something? I could use a plank of wood but I'm still a bit uneasy about it. Cheers.

Hi All, I have an XR6 FG Mk II with of course a shot diff bush. I've been on a bit of a DIY learning spree lately and am contemplating doing the job myself in my (smallish) garage. I have 8 jack stands and obviously a jack to do this with - no hoist obviously. My plan is something like the following: 1) Put the car on stands and remove the rear wheels 2) Disconnect tailshaft (mark position with paint), parking brake, brake calipers, ABS sensor 3) Paint mark all the bolts on the IRS, then undo most of the bolts holding the IRS in 4) Using the jack, drop the rear of the car into the floor, with a plank of wood under the IRS on a 5) Undo the last of the bolts and raise the car back up onto stands 6) Slide the the IRS out from the side of the car on the wood plank (I might screw in some handles onto the wood to assist moving 200kg+) 7) Replace the bushings using some good youtube vids... (Ideas?) 8) Put the new bushings in 9) slide the IRS back under the car 10) Very Very slowly... drop the car back onto the IRS... bit by bit... 11) Connect everything back up without torquing 12) Raise car, torque everything back up aligning bolts in position via paint marks 13) Schedule in a wheel alignment for the following day.    Doable? Has anyone done this before?    I'll budget a whole weekend for the job including a couple of trips down to bunnings/repco/SCA for bits I'll be sure to be missing.   ---- Tools for the job ----   Safety: - safety glasses & gloves - Jacks & Jack Stands   IRS Removal: - Breaker bar - Sockets & wrenches - Uni socket - Paint marker - large plank of wood... - bungee cord (to hold calipers onto the frame)   Bush removal: - hack saw - Hole saw?? - large sockets to press out the bush (plan to use something like this guide: https://www.suspension.com/blog/how-to-install-a-bushing-without-a-press/)   Bush install: - Small wood plank and hammer?? - still researching this one... - Whatever grease the bush manufacturer recommends   IRS install: - removable threadlocker - Torque wrench Also - while the IRS is out, anything else I should replace while there? Car has done 126,000km