cat007
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Posts posted by cat007
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Not from factory.
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Hi all.
I'm looking for a metal power steering pulley for my XR6T FGX.IIRC the FGX uses a different size shaft to the FG?
Does anyone know where to source one?
CheersHunt
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Post a pic?
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Pictures of the car will help locate the previous owners
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I had some comms with crown cams, where my lifters (and springs) are from. They said that they haven't had issues like this before and the oil I'm using now and have been using during initial start up and break in, shouldn't be an issue. So might not be lifters.
Once I get my cam cover back from the painter shop I'll move the car inside and take a look at the top end while it's running.-
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Hmmm dam it's so weird aye. I haven't got any videos of mine but will try and get one this next week or so.
I've not had my tune done yet but would like to get it sorted, or at least figure out what it is and if it's bad, before the tune.
I'll try and get a video with it running without the cam cover on too.
I have tried 20W-50 and now running 10W-60 Penrite. No change in noise. Mine will appear shortly after start up from stone cold. Isn't so bad at idle but you can just hear it, then it is very noticeable at about 1000-1800rpm, goes away at from 1800-2000rpm and above. When the engine is really hot, it's less noticeable/not at all.
I've got crow cams lifters in - and stock cams.
Yeah my engine builder and a few others have said it could just be those CP pistons. It sounds awful though - almost like an old diesel VW Tourag lol -
Hey mate.
Just wondering how you got on?
I've got a similar noise and also running CP pistons. I've tried a few different oil thicknesses to try and eliminate the lifters being the issue. Although if yours is anything like mine, it's more of a rattle than a lifter tick?
I've got Empire Elite timing chain/guides and sprocket though - not Atomic like you. Mine also appears to be towards the rear of the engine - possibly between 5 and 6 like yours.
I was thinking of taking the cam cover off and running the engine to see if I can hear/see where the noise is actually coming from as when the engine is sealed up, it's almost impossible to actually pin point the location.What oil are you using?
CheersHunt
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3 hours ago, fgroket said:
How do I replace my floor mat fixation clips
Do you mean the ones on the mats or the ones on the floor carpet?
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When you turn the key off while driving, are you turning it all the way off? You have to make sure the steering wheel locks at over 100kmph for maximum impact.
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Bend that power steer sensor down.That's with the supplied 45. Although I didn't get the 4"-4" just the supplied 3-4 as I thought I was going to do the battery relocation before I did the turbo. I guess Cutting the 45 back towards the turbo will work, but the return intercooler pipe faces that spot. I feel my choices would be make this work, which would be getting an intercooler that exits on the passenger side and preferably a throttle body relocation to not have to Crossover the engine at all, or put the stocker back on after I rebuild it
Cut that silicone so the bend is closer to the turbo.
Angle it away from engine.
Get turbo side battery relocation kit.
Don't try and reinvent the wheel. Just do what others have proven to work. -
What are the tyre sizes front to back?No, it's definitely tyre size difference -
Shouldn't be any.
As above, take belt off and start it up and see if it still makes the sound. Don't run it for long of course. -
What sort of noises? Are you sure it's from the lsd center and not the pinion/ring gear or bearings?
Putting a trutrack or wavetrack center won't fix if the latter. -
Get a leak down test down.
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Maybe an air lock?
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Which one did you get? Is it the one with the tabs that fold over? They don't work with 12 sided bolts.
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Interesting.
How is the ATI bonded, if not an adhesive?
I've got the powerbond race series - now you've got me wondering if I should upgrade. The price doubles to go from powerbond race series up to RR and the doubles again to ATI! OUCH! -
What's wrong with the powerbond balancers?
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Oh. Sorry. I didn't think about drilling holes in the bolts. I was thinking about twisting the wire tie!It'll look like sh*t. Buy the proper pliers and stainless wire. 3rd gear sell them at a good price. And drilling into those case hardened bolts free hand will not be for the faint hearted. Reckon you'll get frustrated and give up. Drill press is a must in my opinion.
https://www.thirdgear.com.au/6-Safety-Wire-Pliers
https://www.thirdgear.com.au/stainless-steel-safety-lock-wire-15-m/
https://www.totaltools.com.au/114575-p-n-workshop-1-5-x-40mm-hss-tin-jobber-drill-bit-10-piece-166310591
https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-500w-16mm-drill-press-bdp-500_p0048826
https://www.bunnings.com.au/craftright-75mm-drill-press-vice_p5860161
https://www.bunnings.com.au/trojan-3mm-centre-punch_p5610241
https://www.bunnings.com.au/protector-clear-ultralite-wraparound-safety-glasses_p5814707
How much rear wheel killa bees you pitting out and what are you turning it to? And limiter bashing?
Yeah screw that, trying to drill those bolts with a drill press would be hard enough.
Just get the locking plate from https://mackielecindustries.com.au/ and be done with it. So much simpler than fu(king around with a drill press and wire ties. -
A drill and pliers or vice will suffice? Just using it to twist the tie wire?
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A drill press?
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Get this.
Problem solved.
https://mackielecindustries.com.au/collections/ford-fgx-falcon/products/barra-flywheel-bolt-retainer-kit8 hours ago, hjtrbo said:There is a locking plate you can buy that goes around the bolts for $20 plus shipping.That locking plate only works with 6 sided bolts. It won't work with ARP 12 sided bolts.
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You really should talk to your tuner and give them the specs of the cams. And I don't mean telling him you have stage 4 cams. It's not a bloody Euro.
Pulsar turbine housing compatibility
in XR6 Turbo
Posted
Hi all.
Does anyone know if this Aeroflow 1.15 housing will fit on a Pulsar 3584 Gen 3? Part number: AF8050-1031
https://aeroflowperformance.com/af8050-1031-boosted-xr6-rear-housing-1-15
Or does anyone know the Pulsar part number for the same? Does it even exist? I want to keep the Ford 5 bolt exit flange style to save having to re-do the dump....
I've asked Pulsar AU but yet to hear back...
Cheers
Hunt