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BeerTurbo

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BeerTurbo last won the day on June 19 2019

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  1. before you can understand whats it means you really need to understand boost control. this information is documented everywhere online, start somewhere like here. so then you take that into consideration your actuator set for a desired boost level. anywhere from 4.5 to 9psi on the std ford actuators. then 40 percent is your electronic bleed-off. so if you have a 4.5psi actuator and 40 percent bleed - IN THEROY your getting (4.5psi+1.8psi) 6.3psi. there is about a million things that will affect this, so it wont be cut and dry like doing the math. pro tip, dont play with it.
  2. If you put the PCM from the manual car you will need someone to marry the ecm to all your components. they can then tell the ECM to change speedo input back to ABS. now you might run into issues with talking to the ABS module, for this reason id suggest using your existing PCM. Get someone to change it to a manual setup, hookup the reverse switch to the T5 and bypass the P/starter circuit. t5 will be fine on a NA car, just avoid clutch kicks. if you plan on adding a turbo, plan on changing to a t56/tr6060
  3. Std exhausts still 3inch? that's what still 700 hp capable of flow? The cat would be the restriction? If still std. Prob spool faster n have less egt with more exhaust
  4. Yes. The rear hach area was full of tools, spare parts and things that generally have weight. Ths car basically weighs nothing. Trailer has no suspension, so its not forgiving with weight distribution issues. Ideal to have some front towball weight. This tie down setting was more than appropriate to tow this load distribution. But if you want to buy me a towball weight dial, ill make sure to send you the distribution details to the letter next time I move something.
  5. ah yes, I too can play the Japanese card.
  6. interesting. ive never had that. maybe im not trying hard enough. I put rear airbags in mine, cause its technically my all rounder baby transporter / car trailer hauler these days. might help with your squatting and towing condrum maybe?
  7. surely fitting a stock turbo exhaust is a cheap and effective option? Just on that note the standard xr6t dump pipe to cat pipe is 3inch, then most flare into 2x 2.25inch pipes/mufflers to the rear of the car. Keeping that in mind, your single 2.5inch system is a restriction on the stock turbo system. will it still work, sure it will now, xr6turbo motors will love to over-boost with a fre-flowing exhaust, more so complicated with a na motor having more compression. My first iteration of na+t was a stock dump, with just a 3inch pipe to the rear of the car and the car would easily over-boost over 8psi and run out of fuel from the stock size injectors. The stock b series injectors are quite small and cannot handle much more boost than standard. personally id recommend you get decent fuel pump, decent injectors and tune the car to run on e85. the motor will love it and will last a lot longer. even if you want to stick with budget, fit a FG Na plastic intake, use the slightly larger na injectors, or even the fg f6 440cc injectors can be found cheap. these will give you more headroom. you could use fg injectors on your b series but you will need adapters from 3/4 length to full length injectors. I think there about $60 a set.
  8. dont know how ive missed this thread, but subscribed for more updates #territorylife. I will add to the point about the LSD rear, when I got mine I could launch it lamely on dirt or in wet and have 1f 1f wheel spin. After putting a LSD in the rear it became way way more difficult to do that again and I gained a heap of confidence in the extra traction. but I only run mine around on about 12 psi daily and when I was chasing a 12 at the drags I had to get it to peak 15psi. Mine has the 45t/s wastegate welded in to the fg turbo mani, stock turbo housing has a 4inch FG dump pipe.. then from there its 5inch cat, out of the cat its just 3.5inch straight pipe with a 3.5inch hot dog to the standard 3inch rear section. I only did this because it was easy as pie and im not at a power level that would surpass the 3inch pipe at the rear.
  9. if you believe the internet stock barra does 800 hp everyday of the week.
  10. In my parts trade I did, I got crow valve springs, ARP headstuds, some headgasket and intune billet pump gear. Just came with a ba turbo motor, then a mate gave me the Bfmk2 motor basically free I was thinking id just use the rods in the ba motor. trying to be realistic with the build because I'm only going to need a Rear wheel horsepower number that begins with a 4. By ba na + t has 401rwhp and I drift that no problem. I think the cheapest forgie pistons and rods together comes in like 2k in parts and its just not going to be worth it considering the build requirements.
  11. precision international list a Hypatec piston set for around $400, looks like with options for oversize. got me tempted to take that bf block to a machine shop to see if it will bore out ok. the orgionally plan was to put the rods in the ba motor, but I guess if the Bf block can be fixed its only $400 piston and $175 piston set away from being fine. hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.
  12. Old thread, I assume you found your answers? Manly list this information for xr6. http://www.manleyperformance.com/dl/tech/Ford-XR-6-Piston-Installation-Instructions.pdf Street, Strip, Top/second ring 3.632 inch X .0045” = 0.016344" Mild Boost up to 15lb Top/second ring 3.632 inch x .0055” = 0.019976" Medium Boost 15-30lb Top/second ring 3.632 inch x .007” = 0.025424" if you want to ever believe scotty from carnage , https://www.whichcar.com.au/tv/carnage/does-your-barra-need-ring-gaps-for-more-boost-carnage-plus-episode-64 They went 6tho for there higher boost application, 3.632 inch x .006” = 0.0021792
  13. Barra Patrols are best patrols. Rb converted patrols used to be cool, but they just dont have the torque you need for a 4wd that the barrage delivers.
  14. The car was stock bf mk2 manual, well stock injectors so id just presume it was not tunned. My thoughts were inj 6 leaned out n it exploded after compression stroke as rod seems straight. Ill work out how to measure the rods accurately later, as I was hoping to use in my baT motor... Well I guess that will only fly if I can repurpose one of the baT pistons.
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