adams355

Geez must be a demon in the higher gears with that rev range. Are you thinking about a high stall.

I was thinking of modding a fuel mat into mine and taking the Venturi piece out

At what RPM puff?

Its a big cam all about peak power now, spool doesn't really matter its either on boost or not. Gonna have to get some boost into it on e85. v8 na builders always worry about rpm, turbo engine builders always worry about boost, the truth is somewhere in between. Boost is safer than timing to a point.

Yes it was very nice, I got a big fat hehe

Advancing cam 1 degree won't make much difference minimum is usually 4 degrees. If you advance you increase low end and peak torque earlier but not by very much 4 degrees is about 200rpm on V8's. I don't know enough about VCT but its really only for idle and economy yes maybe.

An easy forgotten fix is always better than needing new parts. If you haven't forgotten something when putting a engine or heads back in/on you haven't done it enough times yet.

Flat remote battery or even the car battery. In other news I ran out of fuel today with 56 kms indicated.

The AFL101 was only developed for the barra because they were so hard on the Anti Drain Back Valves, they went to the silicon kind. All the bypass psi and flow rates are essentially the same through that group of filters. I personally just like the higher flow filter media of the K&N but it has the same bypass psi.

Cooper have been around for years, will be fine. I have used Purolator, K&N (black can n white can) Bosch, Aeroflow, Motorcraft FL820S, Luber-Finer (e-core) and some others. I like the K&N Silver (black can) $12 delivered through sparesbox ebay shop. I always open them up as well after OCI and have a look. I'm an oil and oil filter nerd.

Also what is that VN SS up to... and xr6t pain in arse to get off the line, so heavy.

MPH never lies and I'm sure Jet has seen enough dyno time to know what matters.

Ah, no worries back to the dyno. More power then... haha

Put it back to what is was in the tune

Well wasn't the easy fix. Did you say in a post that you played with the actuator pre load or I am remembering another different thread.

Just a clean up and tickle on those heads can always go more later and pics of ported head please its a V8 thing.

Sorry didn't see 275. Goodyear ftw.

You can get Michelin pilot sports for around that money, best cheap tyre is Dunlop FM800, the other Dunlop's are crap. My mate has been running mechanic and tyre shop for 20 years he likes the FM800's I have had them for awhile now and they are very good, exceptional in the wet as well. Get the pilots if you have the money, otherwise FM800 or 2 Chinese brands Kinforest and Blacklion are pretty good if you saving pennies. Blacklion has more grip but the Kinforest is a decent tyre as well for the price.

Yea my solenoid was only 12 months old as well. Put it on the dyno was over boosting badly. The turbo smart actuator is better but a pain to set up

What spring have you got in actuator 15-16? This happened to mine once it was the dodgy solenoid which weirdly was working fine, then I had my turbo rebuilt and I put it back on and then it was dead. But I thought yours was tuned to 13-14 or something. Strange.

Sorry wouldn't let me add I would think about a custom cam and have a chat with some of the aussie companies or suppliers about its purpose. In most big V8 builds NA etc you won't usually see a off the shelf cam used. That's just my 2c

I know first hand of a recent 1500rwhp build that had to go back to a smaller cam to make the power, from what I know it basically had the biggest barra cam in there to begin with (stage 4 etc). Just like a NA cam you have to think about port velocity, is the head ported etc can it actually use the extra flow and not hurt velocity. Turbo's engines don't need really big big cams to make the power as we know. Bigger the cam the more boost and more rpm you will need just to get it off its arse.

Where did they stop with the standard 0.7 gap puff

It says run #18 on the sheet. It feels the fastest its ever been. When I picked it up, it would dance on the tyres when getting on it but this is full blown wheel spin and then the hose pops off. I've got 2, pillar mounted and through the torque app. Highest registered was 16psi but again not accurate as the hose comes off. I didn't have a single issue with the hose since fitting it the way jet suggested and about 3 months driving since the tune. I will have to sort the rad out and look at it again. No ping detected. Yea I'm not blaming the tuner at all just it might have started the issue on a minor level at that time. Yea 16 on torque app is fine, it can be up to 2-3psi high unless you change some of the settings when you have a proper gauge on it or on the dyno. Jut keep an eye on it I guess.

400rwkw will spin up easily in second. Was the dyno sheet from its actual last run on the dyno. I'd say that's when the problem started and we all know how bike riders like to limiter bash all the time 😁. You might have been down on power when you picked it up and just got worse over time. Is it pinging, have you got a boost gauge on it?