Ben_BAXR6

and the original sender just started reading zero again, so swapped in the one I got given, and now that's stuck at HALF. not 1/4 like before. Should have used the 20 litres to burn it instead.

OK, so I was given another sender unit to try first, installed it yesterday, and it read 1/4 tank. Tank had about 40l in it, after I drained 20 or so out (tank was full) Filled the tank again and it didn't move at all. Stuck on 1/4 tank Reset instruments both times. So, this morning, I drained the tank..... again, and installed the old sender unit. Tank now reads full the whole time. DTE is at max. Tank is only half full. Reset instruments every time I make a change. Any ideas what could be happening now? Both sender units Cactus? But old sender unit is now reading full the whole time? I don't want to buy an aftermarket new one, or bite the bullet and buy a genuine ford one, if its not actually the sender unit. Driving me a but nuts TBH...

I have a DJR on my BA, and the fitment is spot on. Was on the car when I bought it, so unsure if genuine or replica, but doubtful of genuine.

By the time you work out buying a surge, pump, fittings etc, buying the process west setup isn't actually THAT expensive. I also don't know how many hours are on the current 044, so makes sense as well

Im trying to haha, I didn't think it got simpler than a drop in pump and injectors. Ill probably just add a second 044, as I already have one, and just a surge tank. Use whatever pump is in the tank now, and a set of 1000cc injectors, and swap regs if I need to. No set goal to be honest, whatever the engine and turbo will let me make. Im aiming to get into the low 10's, and looking at cars like APS and Dyno-mite 430-450 kw's will do it. I know its all subjective, and people have gone faster on less etc, but cars like that are what Im looking at. There's already a pair of 275 D/R's in the shed waiting. Correct. I don't think the MTA 750 would get there.

Thanks for all your input lads. I didn't realise the B Series fuel tank was that bad. Some cars have a bit of old wives tails etc about stuff like that, but proof is in the pudding I guess. Car is currently running a CMS tune, 330kw/1190nm, MTA750/FMIC/Intake/Exhaust/044/60lb's/SCT X3, so your standard-ish XR6 setup. I already know Im certainly pushing the friendship with the stock engine with this setup, and it'll go 400 as it is with some more boost and tuning on 98. Ive seen people like GUN-808 have gone 450+ on the MTA750 Turbo on e85. Car will be being tuned by Shaun @ Boostworx here in SA, he's tuned everything for me for the last 15 years, so he'll be punching the 1's and 0's. Im not adverse to spending money on setting up, but if I could get away with a drop in pump/injectors/reg, I would. No track work/hills runs or anything, just straight line/drags and street driving is all. I guess at this point the question is now weather I add a surge and second 044, or go for a surge/larger single pump haha. (Or whether I aim a little lower, and Use a single 044 and a surge tank, and swap injectors if I need to) I think I know the answer but does the reg still need changing with say a second 044, or a pierberg/A1000/Holley Dominator etc?

What main pump are you using? A single 044 won't make the power my setup is capable of, so I'll need to add a second pump, as well as a surge etc, so it'll be easier and more cost effective to go to the single walbro. I know the walbro/1000cc setup will be enough for what my turbo can do, just not wanting to have pressure issues on idle, and I couldn't find any sort of 'hard facts' on the matter. Some say it's fine, others reckon you need a different reg, others have said they modded it, as well as the tank return etc as well. just looking for some more solid info.

Been through both those threads, cant really find any mention of pressure regulators (Im going to guess that MattyP will have KPM's reg as he has their pumps) Im pretty certain I'm going to follow suit with single pump/1000cc's, just unsure about the reg. The fuel pump has to come out regardless due to fuel sender dying, and I was going to retune for 400 or so on 98 with the 044 and 60lb's, but may as well kill two birds (and the engine block/rods) with the one stone. Impressive linking is impressive haha.

Id normally be inclined to agree with you, but Id need a surge with two pump outlets, and then go to a twin feed rail etc, and I still don't know whats in the tank. Age etc as well. Just a lot easier to go with 1 pump in the tank, and drop in injectors and reg and be done with it.

I have an xforce exhaust on mine and its pretty damn quiet. 4 inch stainless dump, 3.5" cat, stainless twin 2.5" exhaust, has a big muffler underneath, and a big one at the end. Admittedly coming from my r33 race car with a 3" straight pipe side exit exhaust most things are quiet, but still. Lot quieter than most.

Looking at making the move to e85 in the xr6. I was using it in my r33, and I'm one of the converted. I currently have a walbro 255 (was told it was walbro, could be stock pump, have not removed pump to confirm) in tank feeding a 044 and 60lb injectors, but car has no surge tank (Bought like this) but rather than add a surge tank and a second 044, Im looking at just going to a single walbro e85 in tank, feeding a set of 1000cc injectors. Ive read that they need a different reg because base pressures are higher, but no one has gone into it any further what they are. Can anyone confirm what ill need? There's 3.3 bar pressure regs available online/ebay, or do I need to grab a KPM one? Herrods have them too? Had a search but didn't really come up with much. Or do I not worry about it and just tune around it? Cheers lads.

I suspected as much. They're not expensive to replace, so Ill go ahead and order one and get that underway. I only asked as there was the exact same issue as this, he replaced the sender, issue was still there, was told to reset the fuses and that was the last post.

I have the plazmaman 4 inch intake/battery/airbox kit, is a bit of a pain with limited space, but never had issues starting the car etc. I went to a shorter pod and that helped a bit. I prefer it all being there as I didn't have to do anything aside from install it, but if you have the time/motivation, a battery mounted setup makes life a bit easier.

Lads, Just seeing if anyone had any input, did some searching, found a couple of people with the same/similar issue, but never resolved and the threads were a few years old. Im pretty certain the fuel level sender is dead, but wondering if there's another issue. BA MKII XR6 turbo, gauge reads empty, even though tank is full. Consequently, DTE also reads 0. Happened monday night, Car sat for 2 weeks prior with 3/4 of a tank still in it, fixed a few issues and did an end to end service, on way to cruise meet, buzzer chimed, lights came on, gauge shows tank empty/DTE 0. Went to petrol station just in case, took 20 litres or so, but still empty/DTE 0 Remove fueses 27 and 29 to reset the instruments, gauge works again, but drops back to empty and DTE to 0 with in 30 seconds or so. SCT X3 shows no error codes etc. Ill purchase a new fuel level sender, but probably wont be here for a bit due to christmas/new year etc. Just seeing if there's another issue, or I've missed something/havent thought or looked at something etc, or if the sender has simply shat itself, and I just need to replace it. Cheers Ben

Ill be heading out with the wife... here's the route details etc.

Wasn't too bad, was in the shed, with a couple of big fans blowing. Im also not a big girl. I kid , I kid. Im also a BM/W By trade, so I LIVE in hot work all the time. I only didn't get the trans cooler done today, once last minute christmas shopping was done and christmas eve with the family. Ill get the cooler started tomorrow arvo and then monday, just in time for JAF's end of year cruise here in SA. Biggest run of the year. Also the first time the wife and I have done anything by ourselves in 8 months since our son was born, so should be a good night. Using a tom thumb pump, so has the measurements on the side. Level's are perfect haha Silver is the best colour period.

Today's jobs were/are Flush and bleed brakes Change Diff oil Drain, fill and bleed power steering And finally install my big derale trans cooler and fan, hook up my trans gauge, filter and gasket, and full dry fill of the trans. Spending more time today on my back than a hooker, I need a hoist.

front will fit fine, rears you may need to roll guards dependant on height and camber. I just fitted 20x8.5 and 9.5 +35 all round, and it touched nothing, on king SSL/SSSL springs.

That's what I thought too, but nothing. Just the lights on. ?

Car is tuned with an SCT Xcal3, ill plug it in and have a geez later today. I think its exactly like you say, and when the door closes it switches the lights off, so I'm looking at the door switch. Ill have a look at that again, it may just need adjusting or something. Cheers for the help boys, appreciate it.

I can drive a multimeter, I just don't own one. Might be time to invest. Ill have a geez tomorrow. OBD2 reader might help as well. Would my SCT hand controller show anything up? or do I need a OBD reader?

Only two things that have been touched are the rear drivers door has been replaced, and I had the roof lining retrimmed. Had no issues until that point. Ive gone through all 4 doors and cant see anything out of the ordinary, Ive spoken to the trimmer and he only unplugged the lights and plugged them back in, and they're all working, so Im looking at the rear D/S door, but everything is all plugged in, nothing loose or damaged, but I'm not sure if it's something to do with the actual closing mechanism etc. Interim answer is remove gloves from footwell and overhead DVD player, and replace broken rear reading light, but I probably wont be able to get it back to the paint shop until next year now I don't think. Hence trying to look for the answer myself.

By that logic, I could wire the lights all back to the alternator and create a closed loop system for the electrics. Id never run out of power.

well yes, that'll all work hahaha, but trying to find an actual solution to the problem if I can.

Ill take it back when the car is back on the ground, 2 of the wheels are off being repaired. They wont have any issues fixing the problem, Was just hoping I can fix it myself