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  1. I had exactly what your talking about, and it was the centre bearing. If its manual the driveline slop is standard as it gets warm, and you will always get a clunk if you disengage the clutch too quickly. If the noise/vibe relates to clutch movements, and/or you get in certain gears or more so in some than others then it's most likely driveshaft balancing (This wouldn't affect noise/clunk on take off though). I had a clunk when turning and it was my twin 3"exhaust slapping the chassis rail so worth checking that I have a twin plate ceramic, built 2 piece shaft and true-trac diff with around 500kw, as you get familiar with the car and you learn how to drive it and you can drive around the slop easily from good clutch engagement and steady throttle movements. I don't know where you are but pay G&J Drivelines a visit, and steer clear of pedders and go to experts like centreline suspension or advantage suspension if in Melb
  2. Could possibly be stuffed axle bearings if its coming for the wheel area. Check for side to side play of the wheel hub by jacking up and pushing/pulling on the wheel. Ute's are notorious for making noises, and they tend to come and go. I just turn the music up
  3. I run Bilstein B8 shocks all round, rear re-valved to V8 Brute Ute spec by Bilstein. King Spring SSL on the front and Rear, Superpro control arm bushes, Steel leaf spring saddles, rear 20mm Whiteline sway bar and traction bars made by Jayson Scott. Handles damn well for a ute. Utes get a lot a spring wind up so stiffening the front half of the spring added with traction bars/caltracs will go a long way and save you smashing CV's and blowing your diff (I learnt the hard way). Just a word of advice, once you lower it you start playing with driveline angles and prematurely wear parts from excessive pinion angle and can cause all sorts of strange clunks and noises (I used diff shims to counter this). Looks good though
  4. Pretty sure race equipped stage 3 was a 66mm
  5. Yeah I'm around that on a mainline with 22.5
  6. 28psi is a fair amount of boost for stock internals. There are many other factors tuners take into account however eg. timing advance and air/fuel (lambda). I'm not a tuner so can't really answer. In saying that, the power figure is just a number and doesn't necessarily reflect how it performs on the street/strip as different dynos read differently and some tuners turn up the bullsh*t factor. For example my car has showed up other cars with supposedly 40-50kw more
  7. Car: 2011 FG F6 MKII ute Trans: TR6060 with DCS Twin Plate Ceramic Power: 453rwkw on E85 Boost: 19 in the mid 22 up top Induction: XR6T Dev Turbo Side Intake Intercooler: Nizpro Stealth Black Turbo: Procharge ProGTX-64 w/ 45mm Hypergate Engine: Valve Springs, Head Studs, Oil Pump Gears Exhaust: Manta 4'' to Twin 3" Fuel setup: ID1000cc injectors, Plazmaman ProSurge w/ x2 Pierburg 360l/ph pumps, GFP Fuel Reg Driveline: G&J Drivelines 1350 Street Series Driveshaft, Short Shifter Suspension: Bilstein Shocks all round, King Spring SSL Front and Rear, Traction Bars and Rear Swaybar Wheels/Tyres: 18x10 all round, 265/35F 285/35R Semi Slicks Tuning: PCMTEC Tuner: Seres Yet to get to the drags, however 100-200km/h in 6.7 flat as confirmed by dragy module
  8. I knew it did, but 30rwkw is a more than I though
  9. Had my car at the tuner through the week. It had lightweight koya 18’s with 285/35r18 semi slicks on the back when it went on the dyno. It made 370rwkw on the mainline dyno, which the tuner thought was way down. So we chucked on some 19” FPV twists on with a cheaper, harder compound 245/35r19 tyre. It then put out 401rwkw with no changes to the tune what so ever! The koya wheel/tyre combo weighs 6kg less than the stock FPV twists, just shows how much a soft tyre can distort dyno results FYI, car ended up at 420rwkw at 19psi while I run in the new twin plate ceramic
  10. Nice one mate glad it did the trick
  11. It definitely does stiffen the spring a fair bit, it’s worth a shot but wil defs stop your tramp. How many leafs in your pack? I’m still on std 3582, have plans to send it to Procharge later in the year
  12. So I went and bought 18x10's all round with 265/35r18 Front and 285/35r18 semi slicks on the rear, which helped a little but still spins like crazy in 2nd. After that I went to suspension city and had the 2nd bottom leaf taken out to soften the spring and raised 10mm (now 30mm from bumpstop) which helped a little bit more but still spins easily in 2nd when planted (you can roll into nicely but this is only on lowest possible boost making 326rwkw). Aware that under acceleration the axle touches the bumpstop slightly I actually took them off to see if it allowed the spring to compress more but actually reduced grip so I slapped them back on. It's annoying because the car isn't dumped by any means (340mm hub to guard front & 350mm hub to guard rear) and I see others with the same if not more low managing to hook with upwards of 400rwkw Some photos of the car: http://s261.photobucket.com/user/macadaca/library/FG F6 Ute?sort=3&page=1
  13. Just rolled guards? Also what sort of camber required?
  14. They’re hubcentric spacers had them on for a year with no issues, if the bearings go that’s not a massive problem. As I said the fronts clear everything, they do however poke out an extra 40mm over standard so it’s probably 15-20mm past the guard, so I could easily run a 255/40r18 with a little bit of guard work, but just reading on the net people tend think anything less than a 265 on a 10” wide rim isn’t the best idea
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