DC-Auto
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Posts posted by DC-Auto
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I finally have the brakes all bolted on and bled, stopping on a dime. but unfortunately the Work Emotiion 18" rims didn't leave more than 0.25mm clearance, so they had to go. I fitted up 19x9's, and 19x9.5 mustang rims, offset is way off being +52.5mm for the rear and +45 on the front, so for the moment im running 35mm bolt on spacers on the rear, and 20mm's on the front till I have a more permanent fix.
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ok, transmission is back together, another full build, same specs as before but now with a 6pack forward clutch arangement, 36 element pro-mod sprag and drum, billet alloy intermediate shaft and a freshen up of the converter. good for 1800+rwhp and 1500ft lbs.
I still havent turned it up, and still havent installed the 4bar map sensor. I figured I should try and put down the power I have without blazing the tyre before putting more into it.
In other news I figure if im planning on running 150+mph it would be good idea to stop at the other end.. the 2 piston calipers and 322mm rotors are a disgrace, so im introducing the 380mm and 6pot Brembo front conversion im in the process of
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we had the car back on the dyno a couple of weeks ago, turns out the internal 3bar map sensor was struggling with any boost over 28psi, so I have picked up a haltech 4bar sensor but yet to be installed. still at 27psi but inlet temps have dropped significantly and we are making solid power without too much timing.
took the car to one of those torque time sunday morning events at qld raceway, bit of a nightmare morning. arrived, and bolted the radials on, pulled out onto the tracked and put a little heat into the tyres through first from about 40kph, selected 2nd and felt a little slip, straight to top gear (3rd) and popped an intercooler pipe off.. no biggi.
pulled back into the pits, refitted cooler pipe, back out on track.. 1st, selected 2nd.. no gear. I suspected I'd spun the sprag. transmission is now out, will be pulled down this week and sorted..
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gold coast, qld. 600rwkw 2004 ba mk2 ute
BASIC RUNDOWN
std crank, forged engine, atomic 4.5 cams, ported & polished head, o/s valves, precision 7275 gen2, nizpro manifolds, nizpro stg2 intercooler, turbosmart 45mm gate, fpr1200 & race port bov, 2200cc injectors, magnafuel pump, haltech elite 2500, 3.5" defillipo s/s exhaust, th400 rated at 1500hp, 3500 tcs stall, driveline services 1500hp tailshaft, m86 diff with truetrac, 3.45gears, koni adjustables front and rear, heavy duty 2" lower leafs, sl king springs in the front, territory brakes, work emotion 18x11 & 18x9 wheels, 15x8 weld draglites for the track.
made just under 600rwkw with a custom garrett gtx4088/t04z mix @ 27psi, should see 800+rwkw with the precision @ 38psi.
on the wish list is caltracks with mono leafs, 70/30 adjustable rear shocks, 90/10's for the front. and that's about it.... maybe a re-spray
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it's all about weight transfer, there is nothing wrong with leaf springs, and there is a lot of development put into them. Gazzard Brothers in Toowoomba are the leaf spring kings, mono linear rate springs, with traction rods are the go, along with a bound and rebound adjustable rear shocks. A good set of 90/10 (fast extension, slow compression) bound and rebound adjustable front shocks will prevent the tyres from unloading too quickly (break out into wheel spin would be the result)..
I wouldnt be too concerned about tyre width if you dont have any sidewall. I changed from a 285/30r18 federal 595 rs-r which would wheel spin at 200kph (with 600rwhp), to a 275/40r18 SS 595 and picked up a heap more traction, all due to 1" extra side wall (and it's quite a hard tyre compound)
pic courtesy of Gazzard Brothers built rear end BA Pursuit ute
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On 24/07/2018 at 11:50 PM, k31th said:
looks more like oil starvation, rather than a BOV failure. No BOV doesn't cause damage or wear
it is my own fault really, I have experienced this in the past with a customers 600hp SR20 (huge power for an SR back in 2005). he also wasnt running a BOV, and the same thing happened to him (lost compressor nut). as the compressor wheel is spinning at 180,000rpm and comes to an almost dead stop, the inertia of the nut wants to continue on. My nut was sitting loose on the bottom of the compressor cover inlet.
in other news, my 1500hp tailshaft has been installed, turbo has turned up and installed
still representing for the low mounts
fuel line fitting broke on the fuel pump module, resulting in a fuel leak. off with the tub, cleaning up and redoing all of the surge tank plumbing. Solid state relay is on it's way, time the pulse width modulate the fuel pump, and controlled via the haltech.
so once im happy with the PWM fuel pump setup and have the tub back on, she'll be back on the dyno for hopefully a 1000+rwhp, 36psi tune
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well, all good things come to an ends, and in this case, my 11yr old turbocharger spooled its last spool... fluttered its last flutter..
this was a result of my turbosmart blow off valve failing. the compressor flutter was getting louder and louder, and the nut off the compressor wheel tried to take a walk. happened 20mtrs from work which prevented catastrophic damage.
so a new turbosmart raceport blow off valve is going on, and decided on a half decent sized turbo.
the new gen2 7275 cea precision should get me over 900hp at the tyre, but more to the point, 800rwhp on less boost. she's been ordered, arrives early next week
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not a great deal has been happening, trying to enjoy the car a little. been on and off the dyno a handful of times. made 660rwhp on 19psi with E85 before we hit the wall with the fuel pumps and wastegate. Fitted a new turbosmart 45mm gate w/ 14psi spring and a Magnafuel pro tuner 750 pump, and back on the dyno making 716rwhp @ 22psi on E85, then the alternator sh*t itself....
with the new alternator fitted, we turned it up to 27psi and the conditions weren't ideal on the night, strapped it down harder and harder but we couldnt get it past 720rwhp without breaking into wheel spin. the turbo is at its end of it's efficiency, we are seeing 52°c inlet temperatures at 30psi, with the gains we have seen, we are guesstimating at the moment at a touch over 800rwhp...
we now have a 2step launch control program going through the haltech and all wired in with the trans brake, and we have pretty much perfected everything with the car (fixed minor trans leak, minor rear main leak, etc etc). picked up another set of rear Weld Draglites wheels with better backspacing (15x8 6.5" BS) running a 275/65r15 radial pro. New 1500hp rated tailshaft will go in next week, stuff around with roll racing to shake it all down, then see if we can reel off a 6.0 / 6.1 over the 8th mile (can get kicked out this way, but unlikely)... im still undecided to put a cage in, it is a $4000 expense, eliminates me from a few events a queensland raceway, and makes it a pain in the ass to get it through queensland transport (no exo-cage is permitted, in regards to the rear supports).........
roll racing with 660rwhp https://youtu.be/hW-2ld4jozg
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On 21/03/2018 at 6:40 AM, tazzanz said:
Yes its scary how quickly things blow out, that's why I have stopped keeping my receipts lol. How big are the cams?
288° duration, 0.508" lift, 112-114 lsa
On 21/03/2018 at 10:29 AM, adams355 said:Yep, easy 10% in the trans and stall. How does it drive compared? What is peak torque and rpm (if you wish to say). Enjoy its only money
peak torque 1350nm is at 3400rpm, and 7000rpm redline
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10psi less, but not same power.. atleast 10% more power, made 606@26psi through a t56, now making 609@17psi through a th400 with 3500rpm stall
it cost a sh*tload to do the head and cams, im not regretting it. basic head reco which blew out to ported and polished head, o/s valves, springs, ti retainers $4.5k, match port inlet and exhaust manifolds $400, then cams to make the most of the head $1200, adj cam gears $550, timing chain etc $600, factory ecu wont run it elite 2500 wired & tuned $8250, cams too big for brakes CVR vacuum pump $500............ errr...starting to regret it now.
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I have a brand new Mac solenoid being controlled by the Haltech, Ash (tuner) runs the same setup on his 7sec LSX RX7
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yep, it would be a $1000 to replace it
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53 minutes ago, Puffwagon said:
Just chuck in some more spring pressure.
Springs are cheap as and it'll take you no time at all to chuck some extra or heavier ones in.
Upgrading the gate is for flow and back pressure reasons, not raising the boost level.
100%, the reason to upgrade wasnt due to the extra boost, the older Tial 44mm gates are becoming increasingly difficult to find springs. I have to pay $140AU to purchase the springs I need from the States
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18psi is all we could get on E85, wastegate needs some attention. havent decided whether to throw in some new spring combination into the (older generation) Tial 44mm (17psi), or upgrade the gate. im a bit dissapointed with only 50hp gain with e85, drive much nicer, idles better, but with the excessive fuel consumption I dont think it is worth running e85 at this boost
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it has been a while since I have made any updates, I have been doing some tuning with Ash Mason from Wiring and Tuning Solutions, and we have ran into a few small problems with sensors and fuel pumps which has limited our tuning sessions. So far the results are promising but we are far from our 26-28psi tuning targets, and so far we have only had a chance to tune on pump 98 fuel, don't forget this is through a 1500hp transbraked TH400 with a 3500rpm stall which robs power.
9.7psi = 524rwhp
14psi = 571rwhp
16psi = 593rwhp
17psi = 609rwhp
We are expecting over 700rwhp on pump 98 at 28psi, but our tuning was cut short, the 10yr old Bosch 044's were getting tired and fuel pressure was dropping off at 7000rpm.
Since last post, I have done a little more work, Racepack street dash has gone in to compliment the Haltech elite information. TrueTrack and diff rebuild with 3.45:1 gearing, CVR Brake vacuum pump has been installed as I have about -3" of vacuum without it. New mac electronic boost solenoid as my old one had died, and a magnafuel pro tuner 750 (2000hp rated) fuel pump and new fuel lines
9psi Dyno run
Atomic cams
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2004 xr6t
60ft 1.82
1/4 11.3 @ 109mph
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this was last tuned way back in 07' (by previous owner), I'm pretty picky when it comes to tuners. In SE QLD Forced Performance seem to be the go to guys, but Phantom Performance and Ash Mason of WTS I rate very highly as well.
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yep, Chiptorque LOL. You would have thought after the 1st 2 engines they would have figured out their tuner is sh*t
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My 04' BA ute used to be the pride of chiptorque on the gold coast, and has been around for a long time by 4 different owners. I managed to track down the owners and get an idea of the history.
I bought the car making 743rwhp (554rwkw) on E85, and 606rwhp (452rwkw) on pump98, but was in very sad shape. Maintenance had been neglected, needed ball joints, tyres, rackends, oil leak repairs, misfiring badly, sh*t matt black territory rims, 2 layers of tint darker than 5%, etc etc
The car was running a Direct Clutch twin plate button, great clutch, but was taking its toll on me around town (car accident injuries).. After replacing the concentric slave, and master cylinder twice I had enough, and converted it to auto.
After the conversion, took it out to Willowbank Raceway and promptly melted number 5 piston, which is found out through the previous owners, this is the 3rd time (still ran 11.3 on low boost, on 5 cylinders, backing off just after half track). Time for another rebuild. Going through the older dyno sheets, I found that the AFR's were as lean as 13.6:1 with thanks to 80lb injectors maxed out.
ENGINE (*NEWLY PURCHASED)
Nizpro crank girdle
ARP bolts throughout
ARP head studs
Billet oil pump gears
Hardened backing plate
*JE custom forged pistons
*JE chromoly rings
SCAT rods
*Powerbond Race Balancer
*Atomic Simplex timing chain
*Atomic stage 4.5 cams
*Atomic valve springs
*Atomic Ti retainers
*Paul Gilbert ported and polished race head with oversized valves
*Nizpro Plenum
*2200cc Bosch Motorsport Injectors
*Turbosmart FPR1200
*Plazmaman fuel rail
Garrett T04Z, A/R1.15 84mm in / 66.7mm ex
Nizpro stainless manifold
*Turbosmart 50mm progate
4" defilipo exhaust
Nizpro Stage 2 Intercooler kit
Turbosmart BOV
*Haltech Elite 2500 w/ flex sensor
*Innovate wideband AFR meter w/ data log and linked to haltech for auto tune
*FG coils
DRIVELINE
Precise Automatic 1500hp reverse pattern TH400 w/ transbrake
Torque Power Bellhousing
Converter Shop 3500rpm stall
Hardy Spicer tailshaft
2.73 M86 diff that has suprising put up with the abuse (soon to have a TruTrac centre, to make do while I put pennies away for the 9" conversion)
TCI outlaw shifter
THE REST
Koni adjustables all round
Low King spring front, Reset leafs rear
Territory front rotors
18x11 & 18x8 Work Emotion rims, 275/40 & 245/45 Federal RSR -- 275/40/17 et street on BF XR6 rims -- 275/65/15 et street pro on ProStar 15x10 5.5" BS
F6 Typhoon frp front bar
Genuine hardlid
35% tint
FPV FG rocker cover
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04' mk2 BA ute 554rwkw
in 500+ Club
Posted
***Money pit update***
All new alloy 3" v-banded intercooler piping, cost a fortune but no more intercooler piping blowing off
being a ute, traction is non existent on the street even with radials on, trying to get used to the acceleration at the track is an awesome learning curve. Willowbank had the hot rod and nostalgia reunion on that weekend, so in the 5.5hrs I was there, only got 4 runs. 1st run - 132mph (red lit with a transbrake fault), 2nd run - 11.0@140mph (left off the foot brake without boost), 3rd run - 10.3@139mph (3000rpm launch, short shifting through the gears), 4th run - 12.2@141mph (3750rpm launch, blazed the tyres,, pedaled 5 times).