BlueOvalPower

You really need to have a think about your setup champ, coz a 42 is not your normal street turbo haha. Well sure it will work, but she is on the large size of huffers that's for damn sure. I'm guessing you may find people using that turbo in the 500+ rwkw section on this site, and well when you are up at that level there are not to many stock components left in the lower end of the engine lol. If you are going to be doing a more street then strip use, you may even want to have a think about unloading that one and making a few $$ on it if ya got it cheap and check out the GTX3582's. But that's just something to have a think about. and yah the lower the number the smaller housing and the faster the spool, but smaller will also limit the higher rpm hp. Might want to sit down and write a few things down and see which path you want to take, coz a 42 is the "no joke" path lol.

Grab a calculator and also know what you'll be using the car for. It will largely depend on if its a street or strip only car.

Hey Das, yes I have the AEM kit but its not installed yet. I'm just starting to work on my car again now (suspension almost up lol). Its worth is weight in gold for making power especially when hot. I would love to have E85 like the other fellas, but my nearest E85 is about 100km away and I dont feel like pumping fuel from a 45 gallon drum in my back yard lol. The fellas @ AEM said with a 50/50 water / meth mix it will take the 98 fuel to around 110 octane, and then you have the water on top of that to pull heat from the cylinder.

Did most of you wait till your warranty ran out before you modified anything? I like the idea of warranty but I could not drive a stock car for that long! My warranty was void with less then 100 km's on the clock lol

Cheers guys, I done the best I could with what I had to work with at the time, I know its far from a How To, but im sure a few of the pics will help yas understand what your up for before jumping in. TomT, just like Willo said oil loss is very minimal, maybe a couple of teaspoons. Also, when looking down onto the intake manifold the oil outlet is between runner 2 and 3, not 1 and 2 like I said in the original post, I tried to edit it but the edit button has dissapeared

I'm out near Tamworth, but will be driving to Sydney to have it tuned since there are so many good tuners down there. So hopefully find a place that can install and tune. What ya think Jet, best tuner installer combo?

hmm I dont know why the intake manifold image is upside down ... I flipped it in my photobucket album but its still upside down here. Sorry bout that guys.

So a few of my parts didn't turn up today so I am unable to finish some parts I wanted to install which stopped me from doing the oil line kit install, but I kinda slapped a few pics together as to how I will be installing it. This is in no way a "How To", but a couple of these pictures may help a few of you understand where some parts are located and give you an idea whether or not you wish to do it yourself. To be quite honest its a very simple job as long as you have some mechanical knowledge and some tools. The only couple of tools I can think of that maybe the average joe may not have for this job are: Internal cir clip pliers (to remove factory oil screen), long sockets (to remove oil pressure switch "easier") you may be able to use some ring spanners but its kind of tight down in there. This first pic is of the intake manifold and shows what parts I have removed, you may not need to remove as many parts as I did, as I had most of this removed for a battery relocation and injector install and other crap. As you remove parts just take as many parts as needed to be able to fit you hand under the manifold to reach the oil switch which can be seen if you look between number 1 and number 2 intake runners. You'll see it better in the next picture. A lot of this work may be able to be performed from under the car, but I dont have access to a hoist and didn't want to lay on the ground, but if you can reach it from under neath, go for it, you may not have to remove much us what I have. This picture shows the fitting after I have removed the oil pressure switch, adapter, factory banjo / oil supply line, and I have also removed the small internal circlip which allows you to pull the factory mesh filter out. I will be chucking this filter out, as I don't want it to ever block up and starve my new turbo of oil. This is not for everyone and some people may be happy to clean it and put it back in but that's up to you. These are the parts I removed from the fitting in the above picture, I layed them down in the order they go onto the fitting. Sorry I have no pictures of them on the engine but I was half way through this job when people asked for some pics. So you have your oil screen, which slides inside the fittings on the engine block, then a copper washer (not pictured) then the factory banjo oil supply line, copper washer (not pictured), then the adaptor, copper washer (not pictured) then you oil pressure switch. Here is my earls oil line kit, I got no instructions with the kit so I don't know the "exact" way they recommend to route the lines but I normally route stuff the way I like and what way I think will not rub anything and or what looks the best. I pieced it together like this. This is the oil supply line fitted onto the fitting in the block, first slide on a preferably "new" copper washer, then the earls banjo fitting, copper washer, adapter, copper washer, oil pressure switch, and make sure there all snugged up. Now if you have never installed a banjo fitting before you may notice when you are trying to snug them up, they will spin so be careful not to break any clips or other parts by just cranking on the fitting. I always put my fitting in a position where it will rotate into the right position after it has moved around some after being tightened .... if that makes sense? lol Here is the routing I chose for my line, using the factory clips that clip from the water supply line for the turbo, I clipped my oil line into the same plastic fittings, they actually fit quite nice. I also recommend using a few zip ties to neaten up the install but most importantly stop this braided line from rubbing on stuff. For those who dont know this braided line will saw its way through parts if allowed to rub against it, especially aluminium. You may even want to use some split rubber hose over the braided line in some areas. I have not done any of this yet as I am pulling this all back off after I take these pics to finish other stuff. Here is the routing to the turbo, and you'll see earls has supplied some nice heat shielding cover over the braided line to help stop some of the heat from the turbine housing and manifold against the braided line. My turbo is kind of just hanging on by a few bolts as I just chucked it on quick for these pictures. Now I have a 4" Plazzy intake and a GTX turbo with 4" exhaust, so your setup may differ slightly and may even have slightly different routing, but you get the picture. Just a closer picture of the fittings in the turbo area. Sorry I couldn't get any more pics but I was half way through a bunch of stuff when people asked for some guidance. If anyone has any questions or tips on how to improve the install please feel free to speak up. This is my first oil line kit on an FG, and im always open to suggestions on improving so we can pass it on to other to save them time and money. Hope some of these pics helped guys.

Whats the labor worth to change the springs? Who does the best drive in / out price?

I just done one on a FG mkII, I didnt have to drill any extra holes, but it did require me to massage that a/c line up a bit, even now it only clears by a mm or 2, I actually put some rubber between it as im sure it will work its way through the aluminium fairly quick. What helped me alot was to push the radiator as far back as I could in the newly supplied lower rad bracket, I found the rubber bushes would still move around 10mm when they sat in the holes. I just loosened it up and pushed it to the back of the holes and snugged it up. I didnt find it to bad for such a large cooler, only a few small tweaks was needed.

*Update* Just a couple of pics of the Garrett universal actuator bracket on the GTX turbo. The turbo is clocked into the exact position it needs to be and this is how the bracket looks. I have a straight actuator arm on my wastegate, and not sure if im going to use this one and maybe give the bracket a slight massage to straighten it up a bit as it kind of bends forward toward the front of the compressor at the moment. Or I may end up swapping it for an actuator that already has a pre-bent arm on it. Not sure what way I will go just yet il do some measuring tomorrow and see if a straight arm will work or not. Anyway some pics for you guys to see. Garrett bracket part number: 773161-0002 The pictures are deceaving, it looks like there is a big bend needed in the rod, but its not as much as it looks in some pics. Im thinking a small massage on the bracket and small tweak in the rod and it will fit just fine. Not 100% sure what il do at this time, if the turbo company lets me swap it for the bent arm, il probably swap it, but if they dont, im sure I can make this work.

I'm doing one tomorrow, il get some pics for you if you want. Well I already have all the lines off and just pulled the little filter out of the oil fitting on the block but I can take a pic of where the filter is located and how im routing my lines. I have not started to install it yet so il get some step by step pics for people. Its not a "hard" job, its just a pain because of where the oil feed is located on the block. You may be able to get to it easier if you had it on a hoist, but I already had my cold side piping off for a battery reloc install so I just popped the TB off and its easier for us Aussie blokes to fit out hands in there.

Yah id do a quick check of battery terminal connections, make sure there clean and tight. Volts is one thing, amps is another.

What a tough looking car, the full combo. If you was at the lights and that thing rolled up beside ya it would give you the "gulp" feeling when looking at the rear tyres hahaha, what a beautiful car.

Its just a simple nozzle that can be mounted in a location you feel would work best (after fmic). Its very much like a nitrous nozzle to be honest. Pump pressure is 200+ psi so the water / meth mix is injected extremely fine and atomized. If setup correctly the results are incredible. Its the "fail safe" that is crucial incase of a low flow or no flow condition it defaults back to lower boost / timing settings.