Ross Bille

I did not cut this, although im pretty sure there was a change in the last few months to make it cut-free

thanks, I'll give it a go

to expand on this a little, what would be the best way to combat axle tramp with the above setup?

that's exactly how it is set up, its just really close to the bottom intake runners and was really hard to attach the line properly

the backing plate had to be trimmed down a little between taking this photo and fitting it, cost was: $150 labour + alloy $80 fittings $20 hose clamps $20 hose $15 bracket $200 pump then took about an hour for me to fit up myself Im thinking of changing the alloy elbow to a rubber one some day. so that might add a bit more to the total cost. And if anyone wants to do the same, don't put the input fitting at the top of the tank, its pretty inconvenient

the pulleys are cheap (between $15 and $50), get a metal one, that way even if it wasn't the problem, you have prevented the future problem (the plastic ones can melt and disintegrate) I had a ticking with my BF2 and it wasn't always there, once I removed the idler pulley it was clear that was the problem, the bearing sounded like a kids rattle.

Yeah it was a bit of stuffing around Next time I would get a smaller outlet on the pod This one is 4.5" and pipe work that big wont fit past the power steering pressure switch I've got a cover over it now and a new pipe to plumb in the BOV and breather hoses

My bf xr6t hit 350RWKW at 14psi yesterday thanks to Joe at CMS We could have pushed it further but the catback seems to be holding boost back Mods to date are Tein coilovers Whiteline adjustable sway bars (27mm and 24mm I believe) 60lb seimens custom surge with bosch 044 walbro intank Process West Stage 2.5 (with custom turbo side intake) xr6turbo developments 4"dump and cat venom twin 2.5" catback Flapper mod and actuator

if its the points im thinking of, youll snap the bar pretty easy, your better off removing it, 10-15 minute job

I was going to do my fuel pump today, the car is a bf2 xr6t and the metal ring isn't held down by the 4 screws as it says in the first post. Its got some sort of twist lock system. I could not get it to budge today. can anyone tell me how to get it off?

ive got 2 stockers sitting here if you need $50s will do

no theres nothing blocking it. Does anyone know where the wiring lies for the sensor? im thinking I may have dislodged it when wiring up my boost gauge?? its the only thing that's changed between now and when it was working