veczar

Start a torrent or... yeh id like to borrow and see how it looks...

Cosmetic: New very high RMS 12" Sub. 18" or 19" Wheels and rubber GT Wing Lumpy Bonnet Full Body Kit Fasty-ness: Clutch Cat, Dump Pipe, Maybe full APS exhaust Fuel pump Valve Springs Bigger IC Unichip re-tune

0.5 farad per 500W RMS is a rule of thumb I have heard to use. So maybe a 1 farad cap would be ideal at about $90. You usually only need cap's for the amps that drive subwoofers. This is probably a better idea than a new battery.

Where does it go to once it hits the front dash? Did they cut a hole in dash and put it thru the firewall or what? Exuse my ignorance...

I got the ENVI Ford brand touch up paint for under $20 and it is ok not great though... Thanks.

Hi, I couldnt start a topic in the events section so I'll post it here. I was wondering if any of you guys are going to the anual Sheparton Spring nats in October? Is anyone entering or just going for a look? I was wondering if maybe in October 2006 we could enter as a club...? http://www.springcarnationals.com/

I have center muffler removed at the moment. To get to 300rwkw and then maybe over will replacing just the cat and dump pipe be enough or should I get the whole exhaust redone e.g. APS comlete exhast setup? Also does the $1800 APS exhaust+cat also include dump pipe? If it doesnt then that sux because it is a restriction.

No I dont get many rattles yet thankfuly. The easiest way do do it (rather than me measuring) is to measure your boot and build it how you want and how much room you want to use, you also have to build it to match the subs requested capacaty (literage). Thanks guys...

My brother and I were playing a heated game of table tennis and I won 7 games 2 and he was furious, picked up the broom and threw it about 15 meters it hit the big stones and they sprayed on my car. One of them made a knick in the rear wing... I also have a few other small faint scratches and knicks here and there from day to day driving. I was wondering what home patch up paint products and the like people have used (I have an ENVI T). Could you recomend some brands and types and your opinion of them? Thanks help apreciated and im sure this is a topic everyone could use at some time...

**excited** Now we are getting some better claims for the T... chase those VL's down adam

Go to the mods section and look at my topic about my new install. XR06T, Yes I have done my own electrical. A hole through the firewall can be found with the clutch gromet if you have an auto. If, like me, you have a manual then there is no such free space... So out comes the drill, be very careful and put a wooden block on the engine side so you done spear any precious pipework etc. The rear seats dont need to come out. Just run your fat guage possitive wire from behind the brakes, past the fuse box, through the door scuff panel (unscrew the two screws and clicks out), then the same for the rear door scuff panel, up beside the seat and under the boot floor carpet into the boot.. walla your there. IH8PORK, Use a hi-input from your rear speakers into a "high to low converter" and RCA out to your amp(s). That is the easiest way to go. From one amp run your subs (with lpf enabled) from another amp run normal speakers. Good luck all....

I took some photo's of my new setup which I designed to replace my old setup because it was taking up too much boot space and looked ugly. This is a pretty high litre sub-box considering that it only comes to the first lip in the boot. So I still have a neat looking boot and retain space for lugage. The sub-box is packed with padding as it gives it a 'denser' and lower bass sound. The sony amp is overpowered for the clarion sub so I am considering doing the same to the other side of the boot at some stage. The sub-box is a piece of art as it has many faces as to fit around the odd shape of the driver side boot wall and to get max capacity out of it. I did it all myself except the woodwork which was done by a mate named Rob. I made sheet metal brackets that easily disconnect the box if I ever need to get to my Jack etc. The electrical work was done by me previously using hi-input to Low output converter from the rear speakers. The power line runs from the battery and the remote line works off a relay which Ford rewired an unused trailer line in the boot. Check out the picture, I only put one to save load time but if you want more tell me and I will do it. Cheers. Comments? Flames? Anything

I hope they put all the pictures taken into the mag Would have to be a super phat edition. Id buy it. They'd go broke... Ian Would be famous. Um, anyway, Congrads be sure to post a new topic that says when the mag comes out so we can all grab a copy (for those of us that dont normally look at newsstands for mags)

Im interested, what sort of $$ we talking.. Sorry if I missed somthing

Congrats

I live in a 20,000 person city, but it is really a country area. I stuck with them and they have looked after me well so far. They game me a good deal but im sure I could have save another $1000 but that's worth it for the local service and supporting the local businesses etc etc

sykes, Im not sure what you mean my a straight swap over? You dont want to run the factory sub with your Alpine V12 becuase the factory sub is at capacaty im sure... Also it is not a straight swap one reason being what I mentioned above.

XR06T, No the diagram is for the standard cars as well you just ignore the amp and sub lower section, AFAIK. Also someone mentined using the prem amp power lines to power their own amp. NO! Do not do this. For the little extra work run your own proper power from the battery (with fuse) to the boot. Im not sure how much current the thin crummy ford amp lines can run but its not enough for a decent custom setup. Also if somthing does go wrong (short etc) its easier to diagnose with a single line you ran than fidling thought fords maze of whires and fuses.

bkofoed, You dont need to use the ford amp with a line level converter... I also have the wiring diagram. You would go: Ford head unit (+noise) ---> line level converter (+noise) ---> Amp (+Noise). The Amp is for the sub only (prem audio)! I have no evidence but I have been told most hi-inputs on amps are not so great... I use line level converter and it seems to be working good for me. I have just installed a custom box and 12" sub + sony amp. It looks and sounds great. The box fits neatly into the driver side of the boot and doesnt come out further than the ditch. The box has about 12 faces on it to get all the angles right.

Silly chumps should be made to wash your car for 5 years for that!

RACV is really good for T insurance. I am under 25 and was with them for $1000 a year... But they wont touch modified T's. If you want to mod then you will have to go with just cars for over $2000 p/a.

I have a cheapo $30 hi-input to RCA line converter and it does the job for my sub amp. I was wondering what line converters you guys use and if the more expensive ones are worth the money? I am in the process of upgrading my sub amp and getting custom box built. My bass goes loud and soft for no reason (power limit is off on head unit) I was wondering is ne1 knows why?

I have Eugenes injectors... They are apparantly the same specs as the 969s.

I have a T-Piece about 40cm from the motor on the washer bottle on an uphill incline, the one going striaght up goes back into the bottle lid. the ongoing left (horrizontal) goes to the IC (the ony from the bottom was from the bottle, where the water is pumped from)... cheap antisyphon! Works well. I dont have a presure switch because I didnt want to spend $70 and alos I dont use it much so a manual switch is good for me. Just flick it when I want some water

How could the center muffler removal be over 96db drive by? Wouldnt you just pop it in 4th and cruise past??