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mick1378

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Everything posted by mick1378

  1. Just an update so far I took the car down to pedders to have a look at it for me. And basically they tell me as far as they are concerned all is ok which is great news, so the resonating noise seams to be simply that. They did say they never heard it that bad but a least I have a in biased opinion on the noise that im hearing and it seams as though all is good in regards to the bushes etc. I did try and record it but the iPhone won't pick up the low frequency. (I dont like to give people stick if its undeserved that's why I was here before going back to Midas to give it to them) so I have ordered some sound deadening material online and I hope that this will void all resonating noise from rear end. (Or at least I hope so cause it will dead set annoy the living f¥#k out of me and I will burn the car lol) Anyhow thank for the post/ replies much appreciated.
  2. Funny that when they first installed the bushes that night took it home straight back next day an they had used the original bolt in rear diff bush and this had pushed it forward as it was longer than needed the nolathane people apparently told them that so they had to cut down the bolt to suit. So this was taking up all the free play between gear box and diff. Diff, gear box with tailshaft sandwiched in the middle. I'm thinking the issue is with the diff as the clunkyness feels a bit excessive especially with the new bushes and maybe the fact that they are a harder that the old worn bushes didn't transfer any of the harsh noise. I think I will go via diff specialist get them to have a look.
  3. New at this so hope they upload. Now what I thought was ment by outrigger was the arm from the cradle to chassis but now I realise that you more than likley mean the two arms off the diff centre that attach to the left and right bush correct.
  4. Will do, I'm guessing touching or anywhere near touching is too close.
  5. Thanks Ralph I will check it out. is there an measurement or something that I can check myself. I am assuming that you ment out riggers and they would be the 2 round rods that go from cradle forwards 2 body one either side of diff centre off memory. I'd found out after the fact that this is the first set of non genuine bushes they had installed. (Lucky me)
  6. Mr4.0 I understand more noise but this is a massive resonating noise and it only Happens part way through the rev range sounds to me like it could be diff as stated earlier there is a clunk in rear end that sounds like diff centre. So I'm thinking maybe its bearings in there on their way out. Ralph no just rear end. Unless you mean centre left and right diff bushes, control blades, upper and lower control arms etc were also done.
  7. I had installed by midas nolathane diff bushes (wanted super pro) but midas store I went to obviously have no idea on non standard bushes (and the misses picked up and paid for before I could object). Regardless the general feel of the bush is fine, but I do get a bad resonating noise through the read end if I either (auto manuel mode) down shift as car winds down through 2nd gear mainly it gets to a point that it resonates badly through a certain portion of the rev range or if I accelerate only really in 3rd / 4th when under load but not high revving same resonating noise comes from rear end. Any help please there is a clunking in diff if I'm on and off throttle so is this maybe a diff issue. Thanks in advance
  8. amen stop putting your foot to the floor boards prob run a bit cooler lol
  9. If its an after market LPG system it could be like mine, so I never had a problem with mine but this is how my LPG system operated. I know you said you had LPG installed after, but I know that with the LPG install I had on a triton ute it worked in this fashion Car starts on petrol (which in this case only revs up to say 1500 rpm on start up no throttle) So still running on petrol for how ever long you have to give the throttle a rev to over say 2000 rpm and then the lpg system kicks In and clicks LPG solinoid and then petrol cuts out and LPG Takes over So as I understand it the point at which the petrol system is over taken by LPG is determined in rpm / a stab at the throttle (which is adjustable) so I think that you have an LPG Problem In my case you could hear the solinoid click when you gave the car a rev so maybe start car listen for a click sound and if at this point the car dies I'd say it's an LPG problem Hopefully at least this will rule out that it's an LPG issue and I hope its at least relevant (also does your car run at all after 1000rpm on either gas or petrol) if it does on petrol only then I'd say LPG system issue.
  10. Happy Birthday mick1378!

  11. Straight after reading post went out swapped wires around and in my opinnion makes a hugh difference. I normally have bass in equalizer (treb/mid/bass) on prob 2 clicks on positive side of middle line and if volume is up prob 25 that's the limit before it starts distorting. after swapping turned bass up at almost on max on equalizer and volume prob 28 before it wants to start distorting.
  12. I will definetly have to give this a crack as I have replaced factory sub with clarion free air sub (marine) in my opinion made no real diffrence I do however think there is enough room to possibly stick a 10"in place of 8" sub with a bit of tweeking of the mount, but it was prob about a year ago when I actually changed it so my recollection of how it looked (setup) could be off a little.
  13. ok update luckly didnt have to remove entire roof lining, partly because I didnt have a torx bit big enough for seat belt mount. So I managed to get away with just removing the 2 sunvisor clips these were held on with No. 25 torx screws (the 2 parts either side of light cover) I then pulled down the interior head lining at the front. I was able to get enough room to undo the 4 phillips head screws holding the light cover in place with a stubbie phillips screw driver. Then ewith light removed had acess to the nut holding aerial in place. I completely undid nut pulled aerial out from top cleaned around hole and put a blob of sika flex(a bit like silicon) just to give extra protection as it only relys on the rubber base of aerial to creat the seal, if nut comes loose again (was not overly loose to begin with) hopefully this will keep water out. then stuck it all back together again approx 20min work.
  14. thanx rancidpunx was hopeing it would be easier than that but if that's how it is then so be it
  15. ok my first post I have a fg ute for work and the aerial is leaking (utes have an external aerial just above interior light cover not inbedded in rear screen), when it rains interior light cover fills up and drips out of the blue tooth micro phonehole. I can see that the aerial is a little loose as the rubber mount has slight gap underneath but cant get inside to see whats happening. I know how to remove the clear bulb covers but there is no way at getting to aerial to see if its easy to tighten. I have forced the roof liner up and can see two black clip looking things on either side of cover (passanger and drivers side) but cant get good enough gap to really see what needs to be done to unclip. ps. its out of warranty so cant just take back unfortunatly any help would be appreaciated!
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