samhouston

The focals can handle quite low frequencies due to the size of the magnet in the mid. This all depends on how much you are feeding them and how they are installed though. Will they be amped or will you be running them off the factory source?

I have Focal 165K2P's in my FG XR6T ute, running passive off a true Tech B2-110. Accompanied by 2off IDMAX 10s running off an Audiosystem F2-500. My source is a Pioneer P80RS, I previously had an Eclipse CD7100, which I much preferred over the Pioneer. Don't waste your time with cheap stuff, do it once and do it right, the good quality stuff is hardly ever superceded like the cheaper mainstream stuff. Use good quality cabling, get yourself some Dynamat or other means of sound deadening and don't short cut on installation. But then again my stereo owes me around $12,000 to get it where it is now, so my opinion may be quite a bit different to others.

My problem ended up being a wheel weight was thrown on the front left wheel. It didnt matter where that wheel went the problem stayed. Weird. But it is fixed now so that's good.

If you are looking at a speaker upgrade, consider 6.5" splits or 6.5" coaxial speakers, you will get a much more natural sound and less distortion. Also have a look around a few car audio forums for speakers, you can get much more bang for your buck often by buying second hand.

The plug is a square looking plug so I am not sure what type it is.

No good when you are after excellent sound quality. In comparison there is zero tunability and terrible interference.

People seem to be paying quite a lot for their T's. I would be thinking no more than 40k for a sedan and 35k for a ute. Plus options of course. It is quite easy to bargain, you just have to pick a price and not budge.

If it is in an FG, I would suggest using an aftermarket source. The standard item is a massive POS.

Hello everyone, I have an FG XR6T ute and I am putting an aftermarket head unit in it. I would like to buy an adaptor for the aerial plug but I am not sure what type of plug it is. To anyone who has installed an aftermarket source into their FG, how did you get around this issue. The only option I can see right now is soldering another plug onto the aerial lead. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Sam.

I thought that too. I have had Ford alloys on and the problem seemed to go away which I thought was very strange.

Reaplaced the rear wheels. No better at all. Going to try to source some factory alloys and give them a try.

I have a set of wheels which I am mucking around with at the moment to try to eliminate the problem wheel. I will post up how I go.

Hello everyone. I have never had so much frustration from one small problem. I will give you a run down of my initial problem and my current situation. Took my car (FG XR6T ute) to the track to have some fun. Note my ute has 20" G.MAX defiant rims on it. I got a puncture in one of my rear tyres which were just cheap crappy tyres anyway. So I decided to replace the rear tyres and swap the wheels to the front of the car, with the front wheels with old tyres going on the back. I bought a pair of Federal 595 EVO's and had them fitted up, balanced and had the wheels swapped over by my local tyre shop. A day later my left rear wheel came loose and the car was shaking all over the place. I realised and tightened the nuts, quite annoyed at the tyre shop for obviously not tightening them enough. The shake however never went away. Mainly noticeable above 80km/h, worse the faster you go. The following has been done to the car since then; 1. Had 2 studs replaced on rear left which were damaged when the wheel came loose. No better. 2. Had rear wheels balanced. No better 3. Had hub centre ring replaced on rear left. No better 4. Had rear wheels re-balanced. No better 5. Swapped front wheels to the back. No better 6. Took the car to Ford to get drivetrain checked (at a cost of $272 which I will be hitting the tyre shop up for) and all was ok. 7. Swapped 20 inch wheels for standard 18 inch Ford wheels. Problem went away. 8. Had 20 inch wheels re-balanced and fitted back up. Problem re-appeared. 9. Tried spare on rear left and rear right to eliminate either wheel, made no difference. 10. Removed hub centre rings, cleaned face of wheel and hub. No difference 11. Replaced wheel nuts on rear left. Problem went away for 25km or so, then re-appeared. 12. Had hub centre rings re-fitted. No better. I have sourced another set of Ford wheels which I am going to try a whole heap of combinations to try to eliminate variables. The tyre shop is trying to wipe their hands of the problem, which I am not happy about. They keep telling me it is a drive train problem. Basically I have told them I bought a perfectly good, 10,000km old car to them, and a day later it drives like a 500,000km old car. I have no confidence whatsoever in the car, I am scared something is going to fall off the shake is that bad. Has anyone ever had a similiar problem and may be able to shed some light. I am frustrated to the point where I am considering going back to standard wheels, even though I love the look of my ute at the moment. Any help would be extremely appreciated, I am aging by the second with this one. Cheers, Sam.

Is this on a sedan or ute? I have an issue with a bad shake through my car. Going to Ford on Wednesday and hopefully getting it repaired under warranty. Shouldnt be a problem as I havent done anything to the car which would affect the driveline. (I think) Has anyone else had the issue of a bad shake through the middle to rear of the car/ute at 80km/h or above. I have an XR6T ute if anyone is wondering.

No I just bargained with them and I was firm. You can get them for this price, especially in the current financial climate.

Standard wheels are 17s. I sold mine for $1200. Optional 18s and 19s are available.

Yeah I read 230 in the manual but a guy at Ford tried to tell me it was 180. He didnt really seem to know what he was talking about though. I have searched and searched but not found the answer I was looking for. I just would like to know why my car seemed to be cutting in and out of boost around 180. I may have gotten to 190. The day was also very hot, would this possibly affect anything?

As the topic states, does anyone know if the FG XR6T ute has a speed limiter on it? I seem to have trouble getting it past 180 at the track. It feels like the boost is cutting in and out and it wont accelerate any more.

I had about 3/4 of a tank. It was making the noise like the boost was being blown off and then the power would kick in again. It was very annoying as I was getting to half way down the straight and it wouldnt go any faster.

I paid 35k drive a away for my XR6T manual ute. They werent keen on it but I stuck to my guns and it took about 3 days to get the dealer down to that price.

I am really sorry to bring up an old thread but I have a problem. I have an FG XR6T ute stock with CAI. I took the car to a track day on Saturday and experienced the boost cutting in and out. It was quite a hot day. Could someone explain to me please the 'overboost' and 'boost cut' for me? I rang Ford and the guy was useless, he just said he didn't know and to ask around.

I also had this problem last week when I took my car to a track day at QLD raceway. It is a FG XR6T ute stock as a rock with a CAI. I had 3/4 of a tank of fuel, it just wouldnt rev out and was rediculously annoying. Any ideas on what that could be? It was a very hot day.