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samhouston

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Everything posted by samhouston

  1. I would personally try and pick up a cheap surge tank as well, I saw one for sale in the classifieds for $300 with an 044.
  2. I got mine done at Ultimate Power Steering at Brendale. It's something any power steering place could do I'm guessing. You will just have to take your pump down there, he used a -10 flare fitting and machined that.
  3. I didn't tap a thread into the pump as I thought there was not enough meat there. Welding wasn't an option due to how close the seals are to that spot. I ended up having a fitting machined up with an O Ring which is press fitted into the pump.
  4. I have lowered 2 utes, reset the springs on one of them for a couple of hundred and replaced the springs on the other with Kings, which was about $500 from memory. The kings is a better option but there is nothing wrong with getting yours reset as well. I have not had an issue with the diff, although the turbo has a different diff to the NA from memory?
  5. Good work mate. Looking forward to seeing what you achieve with it now! Colour looks awesome too.
  6. My ears and feet are more sensitive than they have ever been driving this now!
  7. Yep it is all good, nothing has come loose and there are no vibrations that I can feel, even up neat 7000rpm. I put plenty of miles on it today, so it is up near 550km since it has been back together.
  8. Been back on the road for a few days now, put around 300km on it so far with no obvious issues so far. I still plan on pulling the gearbox out in a few weeks and check to make sure everything has stayed tight, but so far so good
  9. There are flange refacing tools available. It's just getting hold of one that's the hard part. The crank is definitely not a throwaway item, it can be repaired, but doing it while in the car is tricky without the right tool.
  10. Yep that's right. That is why I'm going to pull the gearbox back off after a short time and check it all again. Unless there is a way to machine a crank on the car!!
  11. I didn't smooth the crank. The material has only been removed from the crank and no high bits were left.
  12. I put the flywheel in a lathe and took the high spots off, it didn't take much as the crank material seems quite soft. I will get the new bolts on Monday and then dowel the flywheel then, the magnetic base drill looks a good bit of kit!
  13. Thanks everyone for your replies. today I checked and made sure that the mounting surface of the crank was still flat and bolted the flywheel back up and the run out was around 0.01mm which I'm more than happy with. I assume it probably hasn't changed at all. Bolts should arrive on Monday and I'll install the whole clutch again and bolt the gearbox up and then check it after a few hundred k's.
  14. I just checked that. The witness marks on the flywheel look like they have been loose for some time before the heads popped off. I refaced the flywheel tonight so that's good to go and upon closer inspection the crank appears ok with no high spots at all and the depth of the pitting is minimal. Once I get the new bolts I'll mount the flywheel up and check that it mounts flush and runs true but I'm confident that it will be ok.
  15. It's an extreme twin plate ceramic.
  16. Yeah I definitely installed it wrong, I know what to do this time but patience isn't my strong point and it's come back to bite me. The bolts were not torqued correctly and I had loctite between the crank and flywheel. Ill install it all correctly this time and add some dowels and hopefully it will work fine. I am confident there is enough meat left in the crank that it will pull up nice and square and not come loose or cause a problem.
  17. That's what I'm planning on trying anyway. The pitting looks much worse in the photo with the flash than what it is, it is minimal in most areas so there is still plenty of face for the wheel to mount against.
  18. It will be ok. Everything can be fixed, I'll get busy over the weekend and it will be back on the road in no time!
  19. Nope ? All that brinelling is from the flywheel coming loose
  20. This is as good as I have at the moment. I removed the bolts today so I'll be able to get another photo tonight if you want. The clutch has been in the car for 2000km, and we rev it up near 7000rpm, so it's under a bit of stress. I was going to refit the flywheel with new bolts and dowels, The surface of the crank is still flat and the damage appears worse than it looks to me.
  21. Yep, that's what I was going to do. Any tips on keeping the dowels in place? And would I run a 10mm dowel between each bolt?
  22. Time for some stronger flywheel bolts. Anyone have opinions on what to use? probably want to keep them at 10mm so I don't take too much meat out of the edge of the crank face.
  23. I ran two passes at 11.2, this one was a little bit less mph I think I held 3rd a little too long.
  24. I didn't realize they had a shift cut in them. I'll give this a go next time. I haven't looked too hard into a 2 step just yet. But I will look further into it
  25. If I put an auto in it, it would be a lot quicker, but I don't want to do that. ill get a photo of the slip and post it on here. the hardest thing is getting through the gears at exactly the right point and quick enough to reduce the lag. I will work on my shift points and just try a few things different and there will be some improvement there. That was on Drag radials by the way and launching at around 6000rpm
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