snakeoilstu

Chur bro.

Cheers dude, wtf ...............like me the ford probably wont see out the deacde so I think I'll go for gold ! ...............As a further Q.........best setting for drags ? normal auto "power" or tiptronic ?

I have a modestly tuned 2009 FGT, its done 220thou and I have been pretty religious about chnaging the oil every 5000. It also has a trnsmission cooler after finding the thing goes into limp mode a bit too often on track days etc. When I say modest tune 300rwkw and 830nm peak torque at 14psi boost. I have taken it to a couple of drag meets but have found it tends to hang on the gear change, (this is in either of the two auto or the tiptronic manual settings). My mechnaic says the ZF has an input power sensor which will cut spark if it gets overloaded but he can adjust that higher, (I have an SCT X4 flash tuner - I presume that's how he adjusts it as he said he needs the tuner but not the car). My Q...if youve got this far is...is that a good idea ? I cant seem to run better than 12.9 / 111 for the quarter and I wouild love to get to low 12's or high 11's. High 11's I could compete with the slower of the street stock trailered cars. .....I drive this one to and from meets. Obviously at some stage more power will be required but if the gearbox is hanging that seems to be the weak link at the moment. If the torque input setting can be adjusted higher, is my reward likely to be a broken gearbox ? On that subject whats a reasoable box replacement to take more load or is that an absolute major. Any advice gratefully apprecaited. Stu

Had a go at the drags this weekend, 2009 FG XR6T with 300rwkw tune road tyres dropped to 25psi on the rears and ZF 6 speed box. Got some clean runs in at 12.9 secs and TV's around 110-113mph but I know its got more in it. Couple of problems, "sport" mode didnt seem to do any better than normal drive......is that what you'd expect ? On a number of runs the gearbox or something seemed to do a big stall between 1-2 and 2-3 ...............must have cost half a second each time. Seemed to happen more often in sport mode. This is with 2 hrs between runs so hard to imagine its gearbox fluid temp ? Also I had a cooler fitted to the box. Any thoughts ? Be nice to run into the high 11's.................is that doable on that power using drag slicks ? What size will fit ? 275's ? Go for a smaller rim ?

I went to get some new pads fitted and the mechanic said he couldn't get them on as the teflon ? tips to the brake pistons had warped. He suggested replacing with the steel ones used in the earlier models. This is on a 2009 xr6t with updgraded brakes - dba4000 ?....... the heat treated ones anyway slotted front rotors and standard dba slotted rotors on the rears. Don't recall the pads he got but some heavier duty than normal ones. Question is do I ; file down the originals ? replace with new teflon ones, or replace with steel ones from earlier model ? Experiences and opinions appreciated. Cheers Stu

I just got a quote from local ford agent to fix .............$665 for the shifter PCB and $1100 fitted. (that's NZ$ + 15% GST on top), Think I'll live with it !

http://www.fordmods.com/post1345965.html?hilit=zf%20problem#p1345965

Yeh I hear what you're saying but I found an excellent detailed explanation of the problem on the fordmods website. Something about little magnets attached to the shifter, and other people with the same issue so pretty sure its not oil related. Gearbox oIl cost is a bitch though - must be made from orca spleens caught by hand !

According to my guy this is likely a gearbox / electrical problem and not unheard of for the ZF 6 speed auto. No-one else come accross it ???. Anyway its off to Mr Ford for hopefully a simple fix. Stu

I have the sedan's (FG NA and then turbo). I use mine for work all the time and am allways impressed with how much sh*t you can get into them, the back seats fold down and there is a trap door to the boot so you almost have a ute with canopy anyway ! and then when it dosen't all fit they are also really good towing vehicles. Stu

I thought about doing a conversion and ended up trading mine on a turbo like everyone says. No regrets but I would add that if are going to trade it in, and you have a need for speed, you should consider getting a turbo that someone has allready boosted up a bit - (although not flogged to death), as you will probably end up doing that anyway. Just a mild around 300rwkw dosen't seem to drastically blow reliability or fuel consumption but it took me around $7k to get there from standrd turbo (I know - more money than sense). Good luck. Stu

Whats the torque ? that's usually the really impressive number on these motors.

I thought he said an extra 2L but may have got that wrong. In any case more oil was added and the box ran smoothly after that............well for the next 10,000km anyway. So concensus is that this is not some common minor glitch and more of a major probably caused by the initial underfilling ? I'll go back to the guy and see what he has to say before blasting his name over the internet. Suffice to say a NZ company so for 90% of your members not relevant. Cheers stu

2009 FG XR6T with zf 6 speed auto. 120k km it has just started not changing down on tip tronic. Only noticed as I don't usually use it but there's a hill where I allways chnage down into 4th for brakeing and went to do it this time and nothing there. Will chnage up and down 6/5 but that's it. On auto seems to work fine. No the fluffy dice and hula girl are not stopping the stick getting full travel. I got the gbox oil and filter done not long ago at about 110k km but they intially mucked up and didn't get enough oil into it (apprently there's a bit of a trick). Chnaged very rough until it went back to have the extra 2l added - then it worked fine until this - could that be a factor ? Cheers stu

Greetings oh knowledgable ones . I am thinking of getting an SS inductions modified air box and pod filter to fit to my 2009 FG XR6T. The agent claims; up to 12 additional rwkw, better low down torque, better sounds when you boot it, and an astounding 80-100km per tank improved fuel consumption with easy driving. Directed me to the ss indictions web site for tech info where the only thing I could see was a couple of vague references from some NA vehicle owners. This mod is selling for about $800 NZ and fit it yourself. I find it surprising that the people who market these sorts of things don't have some tech info to back up their claims - suggests that maybe the claims aren't correct ? I have read the other posts on this subject and would be keen to know: - has anyone tried this particular tack on and how did it go - has anyone tried anything from the Ford parts bin - if so cost and results - any alternatives or do I just forget it and save for a F6 ? Cheers Stu

Thanks guys. I was on track 2 at Taupo NZ. Yep...I'm a sheep shagger. Had no idea what tyre pressure to run so I put them on 34psi all round where I normally do 36. No standard handling improvements you can recommend ? I usually drive in auto so to start going on the track for the first time plus using manual for anything other than engine braking was too big a jump for my old witts and undersized cpu but I think I will need to do that (drive in manual) next time. Its just there are so many gears you can't "feel" which one its in without looking at the console all the time. Maybe a heads up display would help....anyone got one of those ? Cheers Stu

Yeh it was the most fun I've had with my clothes on. The failure to change up was having powered out of a corner and foot flat - straight line heading for the next one. Don't think even the dumbest gearbox could have thought anything other than I wanted to go faster.......... quickly ! Cheers.

Ahh, that's a relief. I take it you were running an XR6T as well ? I've yet to take the pads off and have a look but had come to the conclusion after talking to the supplier today that as long as there was 10mm or so of pad left I'd leave well enough alone. I still however have the prblem of not being able to keep up with a 180HP audi TT running Hero tyres (appriately named I think judging by the squealing and sliding they put out). Assuming you are running the same car as me, and driving ability aside, any suggestions about ways to improve handing round a tightish track. I am running my second set on Dunlop Sports Max or whatever the original tyres are 245 x 18's. Seemed Ok on the road but felt like they were sledging and combined with what felt like lots of body roll on the track made me slow on the bends. I was also leaving it in auto but found on some occasions it woudlnd't chnage up, just sat on 6500 which I assume is controlled by the rev limiter. Someone said that might be oil slosh in the box. Is that a known problem with hard driving ? Thansk for the help. Stu

Bugger. Thnaks for that. So now the rotors have overheated does that mean they need replacing ? as I said the brakes still seem to work fine, no shuddering or anything. Cheers Stu

Greetings I took my 09 fg xr6t onto a track the other day for a play and found 180k - 80k after about 2 laps didn't work. Ok so went to an aftermarket supplier who sold me dba 4000 series front rotors, Ferodo pads all round (not sure what model) they just say "race developed formula - made in Thailand", and some Penzoil high temp fluid. So ran them in for 300k easy braking and then back to a different track and after 2 laps of spirited braking (but not from over 140k down to 80k say), they were smoking and spitting. I thought that might have been just the new rotors, maybe an anti corrosive or something burning off. Carried on for another 20 laps or so 2-3 laps at a time and then a break (hand brake kept off), then another 2 or so and when I checked things out after, the temp monitoring colours on the dba rotors had all changed, apparently indicating it had gone over 630 deg C. Haven't removed the pads but they feel like a fair bit of meat has gone. The brakes I might add worked fine during the track running and since. They didn't feel too much different than the std units except for the important feature that they kept on working. Did get blown away by both a 71 charger running a hot 340 and (ouch) an audi TT hairdressers car but that's a diffrent storey and it was a tight track. So..... Have I stuffed something ? Was I braking too hard ? Are the thermal indicators accurate ? Any thoughts ? Cheers Stu

Hey thanks guys, although I note that in a seperate thread on this site there are people omplaining about noisy diffs in FG's ? Reading that thread it sounds like a luck of the draw thing as to whther you get a noisy one or not . Thnaks for the replies. Cheers Stu

Have researched further and it appears the problem is with the clutch plate type LSD diff (dana M80 ?), some sort of tab or lug falls off the protector caps ? (this from an independant mechanic), casuing diff noise.

I am looking to upgrade my NA FG to a T. Have been told by someone that ford diffs can't take the turbo load. when I tried to trace the source of this rumor it appears to realte to an earlier model Borg Warner diff used well prior to the FG line up. Have had no problems with mine which has now got 50k on the clock and has pulled some heavy loads but is only a NA. Any other experiences ?? Cheers Stu

I've found the connection seems to drop out quite a lot. Screen on the car says ""phone not connected"" and the bluetooth icon disappears, then I curse a bit, run over a couple of pedstrians, hammer the snot out of the steering wheel paddle, and sometimes....... it reconnects. Can't be sure who'se dropping the ball though...the ford or my realtively unreliable HTC touch phone. Anyone else have the same trouble ?? Cheers Stu

Exactly the info I was looking for - thanks very much. Guess I'll just stick with the base model and be happy that the fuel consumption is (albeit marginally), better. Still love the FG anyway. Cheers Stu