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Everything posted by absmith

  1. From memory every part of the 9180 was bigger than the gt3582r... It's a while back now but I recon I would go high mount if your keen on the 9180, it's just so much longer than the original turbo and becomes a nightmare with power steering pump clearance ect. I still have the car, no issues since doing the modifications, but again I think I would go high mount and am considering other turbo options in future. I think the 9180 was 1000hp rated but in my opinion there is no way this is achievable on a barra on 98 fuel. My guess would be 600hp, maybe some more with water meth. E85 is not really an option here availability wise. The .83 on the EFR is definitely larger than stock.
  2. I run Nitto NT 05's on the factory wheels, I think they work pretty well. I would like a bit more width on both the front and rear but stock is still adequate. Being a country car having a bit more sidewall and compliance in the tyres is a good thing. I have hit some nasty potholes and one gutter with no issues. As long as the wheels clear your brake package then no need to go larger diameter.
  3. Next installment, Harrop Brakes, very brief this time; As mentioned in my initial write up, I went on a pretty big mission to fix persistent brake shudder. This has been an issue in all Falcons from BA onward. EF and EL falcons didn't have the issue as long as we ran factory rotors. Interestingly aftermarket rotors on EF/EL developed brake shudder over about 5,000-7,000 km. Machine the rotors and they would be OK for another 5,000 - 7,000 km and begin shuddering again. My experience with EF/EL falcons was that the factory rotors were quite soft and wore very quickly, I remember the pads wearing into the rotors and raising lips on the outer edges of the rotors say 2mm high. Stock pads were lasting around 20,000km and rotors maybe 40,000km, this said there was never a shudder issue. Aftermarket rotors were a lot harder and lasted much longer but suffered from shudder. The EF/EL experience contributed to my suspicion that the rotor type (harder) played a key role in the issues seen in BA onward. The BA's were getting front pad life of up to 70,000km and rotor life well in excess of this. The rotors on BA's were not wearing out due to wear they were going undersize due to being machined numerous times to correct shudder. I sat on the fence for a while after trying two sets of DBA rotors and disc machining of the stock rotors along with different pad types, none of this fixed the issue for more than 7,000km. Finally I sprung for Harrop brakes, funny story about this, the car was a novated lease through work at the time (hence all the stealthy easily reversible modifications) so I managed to get the lease company to pay for the Harrop upgrade by calling it a repair, sure it was my own money but it was pre-tax at least. History aside, here is a shot of the LH front brake assembly, note the Kmac caster camber kits are installed in the background, also two allen head bolts through the chassis rail just above the caliper are holding the process west surge tank and 044 set up, still running the Bilstein shocks and Kings spring set up at this time. For the super observant out there you may notice the top left Kmac adjuster is at maximum adjustment outward (pushing the top ball joint rearward for maximum caster) while the RH adjuster is set to whatever it needed to be to get to -1.2 degrees camber.
  4. Next installment, caster camber kits; As mentioned above I installed Kmac caster camber kits, I like the design with no shimming required and a much larger range of adjustment however I didn't like the execution. The welding was not something I would trust at speed while throwing the car into corners or under heavy braking. Just imagine the torque applied to the upper control arms when braking a 1800kg car from 100+ km/h. I installed them for about 2 weeks with the thought that they (the manufacturer) must know what they are doing and it would be OK. While driving around my conscience got the better of me, the idea of them snapping off at speed gnawed at me, so I pulled it all apart again, ground all the welds off and re-welded every connection point with twice as much weld length while achieving decent penetration as compared to the original welds which as far as I could see, seemed to be just sitting on the surface. These have been in the car for probably 7 years and 100,000km now, no issues, never slip out of adjustment, excellent. An additional tidbit for anyone interested, I did all of my wheel alignment work at home with string lines for toe and a digital level for camber. I never worried about what the caster angles were as an actual number. Yes, caster is important, definitely so this is how I approach it; dial in as much caster as I can on the LH front wheel, this means take it to the limit of adjustment (shim or adjust the upper control arm so the top ball joint is as far toward the rear of the car as possible) Dial in slightly less on the RH front wheel, if I had the actual numbers it would be something line 1 degree less caster on the RH front (upper ball joint slightly further toward the front of the car) On the FG's I think the caster angles end up being somewhere around 5 to 6 degrees, happy to be corrected here but this wont be too far off. I did experiment with offset drillings in the upper control arm mounts to dial in even more caster but found the car seemed to not like it too much so reverted back to closer to standard values. Note- Caster is the best wheel alignment angle to use to get the car to drive straight (resist the camber of the road), you can do it with camber but this will cause unwanted wear on the inner edges of the tyres (excessive negative camber, in particular on the LH front) 3. Set camber on both front wheels to just over -1 degree on each side (actual ended up being around -1.2- 1.3 degrees), there can sometimes be a bit of fiddling around as each change to camber affects caster and vice versa. You just need to work with it until you land in a spot you are happy with. 4. Set string lines down each side of the car and set toe on the front and rear, I put a slight amount of toe in on the front, say around 1mm on each side. Similar deal on the rear of the car but the factory set up doesn't allow much freedom in alignment sadly. There is one adjustment that changes both camber and toe at the same time so a compromise has to be struck between the two. I generally ended up with around 0.7 degrees negative camber and toe close to 0. It is never perfect due to the constraint I mentioned before. There are aftermarket kits available to sort this out but I never felt the need to bother. No such thing as caster on the rear. Final step is to road test the car, promptly find out it pulls left or something just as irritating and go back and do all of the above again, repeat numerous times and after something like 6 months of dicking around arrive at a point where I am happy with it. Images of caster camber kits below with before and after welds, you guys should be able to see which are which...
  5. Yeah, I used the borg warner match bot program to look pretty closely at what the turbo was capable of. It certainly looked good for 800hp. Whatever the case is it has to be a lot better than the GT3582. Some time ago I toyed with the idea of installing a tapping point in the exhaust manifold to measure back pressure directly, kind of lost interest after a while. Correct me if I am wrong but I think the EFR 9176 is a hybrid? Do they run the smaller exhaust wheel to allow a higher shaft speed limit on these turbos? I think the EFR 9180 is only good for 116,000 rpm while yours might be OK to 150,000? What power did you make with yours and on what fuel? I had thought about this shaft speed issue a bit and began to wonder if I was overspeeding mine, like the tapping point idea I lost interest in this after it held together for 30,000 kms. Speaking of holding together, or not, here are some depressing pictures of the oil pump failure I had, just another installment in the history of the FG. It survived fine but it managed to fail at a very inconvenient time, I was working on renovating a house while I was on annual leave for 4 weeks so while I was flat out trying to finish the renovation on a very tight deadline so I could rent the house out I had the additional side project of complete engine removal. That will teach me for limiter bashing the thing.
  6. EFR 9180 installation; This was a bit of a mission. The worst part was the power steering high pressure hose and reservoir relocation. To keep it as stealthy as possible I decided to low mount the turbo on the stock exhaust manifold, this part of the fitment was very straight forward from there on it was fiddly. High Pressure P/S hose was a pain, it is as if Ford specifically didn't want anyone to put an EFR on there, especially with the location of the P/S switch. I ended up bending up a piece of fencing wire to reflect the final shape I needed the first 10'' of the line to be and took it, along with the hose, to Pirtek. They cut and shut the hose in the correct orientation. This worked out OK and for around $30 I got out of it OK. P/S reservoir relocation, pretty straight forward, but I did impose a caveat on myself, like with most other modifications I wanted to be able to return to stock at a later date if needed. So with this in mind I made a bracket to mount the new remote reservoir back near the brake booster, this picked up an existing (stock) hole to anchor the bracket. The reservoir is nicely hidden and looks stock in black. To connect to the P/S pump I machined up a brass hose tail that slipped in to the power steering pump and sealed using the same "O" ring that the standard reservoir uses, to retain it I drilled a small hole through the P/S pump that allowed me to put a split pin through the pump and pick up the edge of the hose tail. Wish I took a picture of this because it is hard to explain. Either way, it worked out fine and left me with the ability to remove everything and return it to stock later. I used a banjo fittings that went to a 1/2'' hose tail to connect to one of the factory water lines with flexible hose. The second water line just bolted straight on to the EFR with a slight amount of bending required. The oil feed line bolted straight up (I already had the flexible braided Earls feed line from past issues...). I finished off the oil drain line with a couple of hose tails and a flexible hose from Pirtek, it was too close for comfort to run a flex hose that close to the turbine housing so I heat wrapped it and secured with stainless cable ties (same stuff you wrap extractors with). Usual stuff for drivers side air box modification, Plazmaman battery relocation kit to get rid of the battery. I didn't want to pay for an airbox so I fabricated once from stainless myself, nothing special it just needed to cover the K&N pod filter. Got a mate to bead blast it to a matte finish which I don't mind. I was going to paint it black but the sand blast look grew on me. The EFR's are a vee band exhaust connection (around 3" I think), so out with my old dump pipe that suited the GT3582 and a bit of cut and shut on that with mandrel bends from the local exhaust shop. It is bloody tight trying to squeeze a 4'' pipe between the turbine outlet and the firewall/steering shaft. It worked out OK after a few trial fits, just tack welded it in place then removed it from the car for final welding. I add an extra bracket to support the dump pipe that bolts to the engine block while I was at it. I was not keen on hanging the whole front section of the exhaust off of the turbine housing alone (which is how the old exhaust was done by others). Hot side turbo piping was pretty straight forward, given that I already had a Nizpro intercooler installed it all lined up pretty well, just a couple of silicone elbows and it was away. Then it was tuning time, to be honest I didn't need to do a whole lot, I have a wide band permanently installed in my dump pipe so I logged AFR's on some WOT runs, looked OK at around 11:1, listened for any pinging and then started throwing some more boost at it. Again, it is few years back when I did this so I think I pulled a couple of degrees of timing at full load. Apologies for the pictures, they are all I could find on my old hard drive, normally I would be able to take some more but I am not at home ATM. EFR 9180 vs my old GT3576 Trial fitting of the EFR Halfway through the fitment process, the remote P/S reservoir is not installed in this image, it ends up hiding to the left of the brake master cylinder.
  7. OK, I think I have worked out the picture side of things so here we go. Images of the car, as explained about as boring as it can be, just looks like a stock hire car which was the intent. It is about an inch higher now since I put Tein coilovers in it. On close inspection a couple of the shots are from a long while back so have factory ride height. At least one of the shots has a clue to its location in the background. Will post some pics of the EFR as a second installment.
  8. Thanks for the replies, I wanted to put some pictures in however couldn't work out how to do it without using a link, I would like to just embed an image in the body of the message. I think mine are the snowflake rims, once I work out how to put a picture up.... Harrop sent me some sweep profiles for the brake package, these were just some paper cut outs which I could hold up inside the wheel to check clearances. I fit the brakes up and they are bloody close, say 3mm clearance to the inner side of the spokes. Been on the car for a few years now and done maybe 30 or 50,000km's absolutely fine. I tried everything to fix my factory brakes, meticulously torqued the wheel studs every time, cleaned hubs, two sets of DBA slotted, machined factory rotors, different pads, polyurethane upper control arm bushes (there is a thread about brake shudder on Brembos being related to these bushes somewhere). None of it fixed the issue for more than around 7,000km before the shudder returned. Gave up on factory and went with $5k of Harrop package. On the valve spring issue, I have been told by a reputable tuning house that they have seen up to 60 psi back pressure in the exhaust manifold when pushing high boost with turbine housings and or wastegates that are too small. This said, with good set ups they have seen less than boost pressure in the exhaust manifold. Their angle was that it was the exhaust valves that were being held open rather than the inlet, I guess it could be both....
  9. absmith

    My Build

    Hello Brad, I followed through and wrote mine up,
  10. Hello all, I have been on a journey of around 8 years with my FG. I penned the information to a mate a while back who was considering an XR6T, but recently thought it might be worth sharing. Here is a list of issues and modifications with my FG. It has something like 130,000km on it now. Mid 2008 model. Bought it with 20,000km’s on it from a dealer. It was owned by the Church before (no joke) I actually called the original owner as his name and number in the service book. He was an older guy and he didn’t have any issues with it, said he liked it for overtaking. I have done all of the work on the car myself over the years. It was my daily driver for most of this time and the intention was to put together a good street package, this included handling and braking. I also wanted it to look as subdued as possible to not attract any attention, first thing I did was peel the turbo badge off when I brought it home. Set at standard XR6 ride height with stock rims and no tint, intercooler is also black. The only give away is the Harrop brake package. Issues, A/C is pretty unreliable these days, I think there was a HIM issue but it isn’t helped by the intercooler in front of the condenser. The cooler is 3’’ thick so airflow is pretty poor across the condenser. If anyone knows about a fix for this please let me know. Pretty much all of the suspension bushings standard are too soft. Early days the diff used to sound like it was hitting the floor pan if any wheel spin occurred. I replaced shocks and springs but it didn’t help. In the end I put super pro polyurethane diff bushings in it and it was sorted. All three bushings were done, it requires the entire rear cradle to be removed. Under warranty I got the dealer to put them in for me, they were going to put new standard ones in but I just handed them the polyurethane ones on the day. This resulted in more drive line noise but it was worth it. Front upper inner control arm bushings are a bit soft, I replaced these myself with super pro polyurethane as well. This is not a must but I guess it helps to get a better feel in the steering. Front caster camber kits, I put Kmac ones in that allow for a lot more adjustment than the shim ones. I was unimpressed with the quality of the welds on the Kmac kits, so much so that I ground all of the welds off and re welded with my mig at home. I was hesitant to throw it into a corner very hard with the bird sh*t welds they had. I am happy with them since my modification and I would still use them again because the design and adjustability is good. Brakes, absolutely hopeless stock, not a fade issue for me. It was just shudder as soon as they got hot, definitely never experienced any fade and I was pretty hard on it (twisty/hilly country roads) every day, this said I backed off early because of shudder which certainly detracted from the driving experience. I tried Ferodo pads with DBA slotted rotors, (not cross drilled as I believe the cross drillings lead to cracking). Still developed brake shudder after 5,000km, it was a bit different to the factory rotor issue, with DBA is was a higher frequency shudder but still crap. I actually hit DBA up under warranty, they were very good about it and actually took me on a factory tour in Silverwater when I returned the rotors, they gave me a new set straight off on the day, I tried with these again, same issue developed. There are so many theories as to why the Falcons suffer from brake shudder but none are proven that I know of. Some say it is because there is a small amount of rust scale on the hubs that means there is a little bit of runout on the rotor which then causes the rotors to wear unevenly (thicker and thinner areas around the circumference) however my measurements never showed this. I would also expect the shudder to be there all the time if this were the case, not just when hot, which was not the case. Others say it is incorrect pad transfer to the rotor, apparently the pads lay a layer of material on the rotor and if this is inconsistent then shudder will occur, don’t believe this either. I recon the rotors are not thermally stable and warp when hot and then return to shape when cold. I can pretty much confirm it wasn’t my hubs because my Harrop brakes are on the same hubs and have done around 30,000 km without any issue. More on the Harrop brakes later. Rear control blade bushings were very soft as well, I replaced these as part of my efforts to get rid of axle tramp, I think it was never just one specific fix for the tramp, it was a combination of diff bushings, control blade bushings and shock and spring rates helped as well. End of story was it was fixed in the end and I could drop skids anywhere dry or wet without the issue, not that this was a daily occurrence but at least I could take off from a standing start without it feeling/sounding like I was going to break something. Glovebox lid wasn’t square, common issue replaced under warranty. Manual gear knob is leather wrapped from factory, this stretched over time. Replaced under warranty. It has stretched again but it isn’t really an issue. I have replaced one front wheel bearing and one rear needs doing now, not all that noticeable unless really pushing in a corner, bit a a click can be heard. Stock tyres are not great, don’t get cheap tyres either, it makes a big difference to grip and stability. I had to run high pressures in cheap tyres to get the thing to be stable at speed because the sidewalls are too soft, this compromises traction so it is not the best way to approach the issue. Better quality tyres is where it is at, currently Nitto NT 05's 245/45/18 on standard rims. Clutch, stock this held OK until 90,000km which was around the time I was pushing more power. It was OK at 300 RWKW but once I was at 350 RWKW it started to slip a little in 5thand 6th gear WOT. Shocks and Springs, too soft stock. Mine might have been an earlier model which had softer rates in it, I recon some of the hire car ones I drove in later years were pretty good in comparison. In fact, remembering back the brakes on those were fine with regard to shudder but fade was an issue although it took quite a bit to fade them (and they were smaller than the turbo ones). From the above description, I don’t think there is much there that is a genuine warranty issue except the bushes and axle tramp and brakes. The rest is just a personal thing chasing a better handling package. Modifications, I tried a fair bit of stuff to get to where it is now, not worth listing it all though. The bit I would like to do extra would be tune for E85, bigger injectors to go with it and a second fuel pump. I just stayed with BP 98 because I like my country driving. Started with a PWR stepped intercooler now running a Nizpro intercooler and piping. Process west surge tank and bosch 044 fuel pump, likely to run 2x 044's in future if I play with E85. Plazmaman battery relocation kit K&N pod filter (the largest I could fit) hidden under a home fabricated stainless air box where the battery used to be. Bead blasted stainless, it looks a lot like the colour of the car (Lightning Strike) ID 1000cc injectors- Might need to go to something larger if I go E85. 4’’ dump pipe from turbo to cat, I fabricated this myself at home 3.5’’ exhaust from cat back 5’’ 100CPI cat (kind of a token gesture of a cat, to me there isn’t much in the 100CPI cat's really) Started out with the GT3576 stock FG turbo, this ran 300rwkw at best, it then developed a bearing noise. I believe this is common so I changed to a GT3582 and installed an Earls oil feed line to prevent the issue happening again (oil starvation due to clogging of the stock filter screen, although I didnt see anything on my screen when I removed it). The GT3582 made 350 rwkw and certainly livened the car up. Finally, I went with a Borg Warner EFR 9180 turbo installed on stock low mount manifold. I like keeping the cars looking as factory as possible. I can't say what power this is making because I have never put it on a dyno since the change. Turbosmart fuel pressure regulator, this was a must, the stock pressure regulator couldn’t relieve the full flow of the Bosch 044 pump which resulted in all sorts of idle quality issues due to the fuel pressure being too high at idle. Mal Wood clutch (Option 5) It is a twin plate with billet flywheel. Atomic engine oil pump. It is common (mainly manuals) for the pump to shatter with high HP applications. No limiter bashing or free revving the engine if you are still running a stock oil pump in a manual falcon. Tuning is being done by me with HP tuners VCM suite Harrop Monoblock brake kit front and rear, these are 355mm rotors all round. I chose these instead of their ultimate kit because they fit under my factory 18’’ wheels (only just). If you get the ultimate kit from them you need to run different wheels. Very happy with these, I have found them excellent in all conditions, quiet never squeal work well hot or cold, importantly no shudder. Tein EDFC Super Steet coilovers, these can be adjusted from the cabin for damping rates. If you feel really tricky they can be set up to change damping rate depending on G forces force on accel and decel and lateral automatically but I don’t use it. They can also adjust depending on speed, again I don’t use it. Mine are just set to middle setting and that is about right for rougher country roads. I have been very happy with the Tein set up. It really transformed the car. I was running Bilstein front shocks, with Koni adjustable rears and king springs. It was better than stock but I was never really happy with it. A side note here, I think lowering these cars much below standard XR6T ride height is actually detrimental to handling, this might be due to me being on rougher country roads but I have never been happy with any of my cars handling if they were too low. I don’t know how much power it makes these days with the EFR turbo on there. I have just tuned it myself on the street. Running about 25 PSI boost from 2500 rpm to redline. It can build boost earlier, say 10psi at 1900 rpm, 15 psi at 2200rpm. Something like that anyway, so for highway cruising it can make plenty enough power in 6th gear to not worry about changing gears while on cruise control. My guess is around 400rwkw as it certainly has a lot more top end than it did with the Gt3582, the old Garrett seemed to nose over at about 4500 RPM. Again only a guess on the power number. The good things stock, Diff, the M86 diffs are plenty strong enough and the LSD has copped plenty of abuse. Tailshaft has been fine in mine, again I dont drop the clutch on it or abuse it too much. Normally put it in a gear and them put the foot down. CV shafts are fine, I think this is the case unless drag racing with slicks and auto trans, street tyres just act as a fuse to protect the tailshaft and CV's. Tremec TR6060 transmission are about as good as you can get, no issues whatsoever Stock unopened engine, no issues there (although I am surprised it has held in there), still stock valve springs at 25psi boost, no issues. I think the issue with valve springs is if trying to run high boost with small turbos the back pressure from a small turbine can hold the exhaust valves from closing causing a miss. It even survived an oil pump failure, just shut it down immediately at the time, pulled it apart and picked all of the chunks of metal out of the sump, a little depressing really. Shot some petrol up the main oil gallery leaving the oil pump with a clean white rag ready to catch what flowed back at me, no metal pieces up there so all good. It has done at least 60,000km since with no issues. I did put together an insurance policy after that experience in the form of a second engine ready to go. It started as an FG N/A engine out of a wreck with only 700km on it. New exhaust valves, some mild port work and better valve seat angles, Atomic rods, cosworth pistons, main girdle, new bearings ect. Ready for the next phase of the cars life. Interior is good Seats are good Words of wisdom, if I was building from scratch again I would have skipped all the intermediate steps along the way and gone straight for the best components I could get first time around.
  11. absmith

    My Build

    No worries, I fixed my idle issue years ago. No issues since. Plenty of people read the forums for information without posting, I haven't posted much because I hadn't been on the journey yet so didn't have much to add. 8 years of trying different things on mine now. The ARP bolts are a lot harder than stock so it takes more torque to get them into their elastic zone. I had loctite on mine as well but it made no difference, like I said they basically backed out by 3 or 4 full turns within 50km's. I have now done at least 50,000km since that event and not had an issue since. Saw that you are running a KPM fuel pump setup, I was very close to doing this myself, even dropped in on the guys down there while I was in Adelaide on a work trip some years back. They run a good outfit and they spent a bit of time showing me their manufacturing area as well as their automotive side. Good to see some Australian businesses going well. For now, I think I will buy a second 044 to go with my existing surge tank. Like you 98 ULP is most convenient, to get E85 is a mission in the Central West. I am very interested to see how you go with tuning on 98 ULP, I feel like I can't get any more out of mine on 98, I wonder what the limit is? It would be interesting to hear what other people have achieved. I have been through the power steering reservoir relocation and modification to the high pressure P/S line as well, it was a mission. I just cut and shut the standard hose, no issues once it was all bolted back together. I assure you there will be plenty of people who will read your thread and gain plenty from it, not wasted at all. To this end, I think I will post a build thread on mine, well at least what I remember of the journey.
  12. absmith

    My Build

    Thanks for putting the time into the write up that you have done here. I came across your build thread as I am researching fuel pump options or my FG. By chance it happens that we had an exchange relating to the idle issue in another thread. I have read your entire build thread now and have had similar issues with a Mal Wood option 5 twin plate install. It is not an issue with the quality of the kit, it has now been in my car with a Borg Warner EFR 9180 for a couple of years no issue. Lighter than stock as well. I am not overly hard on it though. My flywheel bolts loosened off within about 50km of driving the day I installed it, turns out I torqued to factory specifications which was a mistake. Same story as you, was able to redeem the crank mating face with minor filing to tidy up. This was a long time ago (say 5 years) but I think I ended up torquing to around 70-75ft/lb. I think you mentioned 85nm in your post earlier. When the replacement set of arp bolts arrived they came with a little piece of paper that had the recommended torque on it. The first set that came with the kit did not. Your story was identical right down to forgetting the sandwich plate, thinking it was a bleeding issue, heat issue of the clutch line running near the turbo dump.... Word of caution make sure you check with Mal Wood what torque he recommends before driving her again.
  13. Interesting, I never noticed a screen in there when I pulled the old regulator out. I have heard of some people somehow opening up the factory regulator to flow a bit more. Took me a while to find because the problem began once I brought it home from the tuner (they fit the surge tank and 044 while tuning), went back to them 3 times and when they still didn't know even after changing to different injectors, I bought HP tuners and started hunting the problem myself. Easy job to put a pressure gauge on as a quick check. Correct me if I am wrong but at idle I think you are looking for 4 bar fuel pressure.
  14. I dont know what else you may have changed on yours, however I did have idle issues when I first started modifying mine. I had an issue with my FG XR6T after fitting a bosch 044 fuel pump and surge tank, it is manual so every now and then it would stall with the clutch in rolling to an intersection. Took me a while to find but it turned out the fuel pressure was around 6 bar at idle (this is some years back so I may be a little off here). The factory fuel pressure regulator could not flow the extra fuel delivered by the 044. Replaced the regulator with an external regulator and all good since, https://www.efisolutions.com.au/turbosmart-fpr1200-fuel-pressure-regulator-black
  15. PWR stepped core ID 1000 injectors Process west Surge and 044 Herrod Piping Stock air box with drop in K&N panel filter GT3582 turbo 350RWKW on 98
  16. For everyone out there here is how I went with my PWR cooler, I am running a PWR stepped intercooler on an FGXR6T Manual. I have the F6 turbo fitted, siemens 60LB, 12psi actuator, 4'' dump to 3 1/2'' exhaust, 5'' 100CPI cat, surge tank, Herrod piping kit, ported waste gate, running around 16psi boost. The PWR intercooler has been fine, we made 344.8rwkw on a 23degree day. Mine made 297rwkw with the standard turbo, stepped intercooler, 5'' cat, no surge tank and standard exhaust but all other mods listed were done at the time. The larger turbo makes a huge difference to the FG's, with the stock turbo the car would nose over at about 4000 RPM so I would find myself shifting early to keep it in the 2500-4000band. Now with the F6 turbo the car pulls really hard all the way to redline. I cannot stress the difference enough, it is like night and day. Thanks to C+V for the tuning work. Hope this helps, when I was researching the PWR cooler there was very little information out there. ipb.global.registerReputation( 'rep_post_1207043', { domLikeStripId: 'like_post_1207043', app: 'forums', type: 'pid', typeid: '1207043' }, parseInt('0') );
  17. Yes, I am running a PWR stepped intercooler on an FGXR6T Manual. I have the F6 turbo fitted, siemens 60LB, 12psi actuator, 4'' dump to 3 1/2'' exhaust, surge tank, ported waste gate running around 16psi boost. The PWR intercooler has been fine, we made 344.8rwkw on a 23degree day. Mine made only 297rwkw with the standard turbo stepped intercooler and standard exhaust but all other mods listed were done at the time. Hope this helps, when I was researching the PWR cooler there was very little information out there.
  18. Hello All, I have an FG manual XR6T sedan. I found the axle tramp very inhibiting especially in the wet, even the slightest bit of wheel spin turned into a severe banging in the rear. I basically had to baby the car around to prevent the issue. My fix went like this; 1. inspected all of the bushes under the car, found the centre rear diff bush torn. This was not too obvious, only noticeable if a screwdriver was inserted into the voids of the bush to spread them then the split became obvious. 2. Installed centre diff bush insert from Pedders, did this without removing the rear sub frame (slotted the washer they gave me to go over the bolt). This approach did absolutely nothing to help. 3. Installed superpro control blade bushes, no difference. 4. Installed superpro pinion support bushes and the centre diff bushing (removal of sub frame required), this fixed about 70% of the issue, huge difference. 5. Put new tyres on the rear to replace the original equipment Dunlop's, just cheap 245/40/18's. Problem completely gone. The car will now skate on wet surfaces at any time without tramp. Bushes cost around $450 for the control blade, pinion support and centre diff bush. Hope this helps. 4.
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