Pube

Also, how much fluid do I need? Ford parts department say 6 litres, new gearbox shop says 5.5 litres but ive been reading some use 11 litres?

Went back to my gearbox shop after not being happy with the oil he put in. Turns out it was the Atlantic oil and he also highly recommended the oil. My car is doing the same as mentioned above, no good when its coild but ok when hot. Changes back down to second gear under load are very snappy at any temp and 5th and 6th seem to flare more so when cold. I mentioned the Gulf Western stuff to him and he said he wasnt a fan....Im going back to the Genuine ZF oil.

I got my BF ZF serviced by my local transmission shop recently. The owner tells me that you can now get aftermarket ZF oil which is the exact spec to the genuine stuff. The service cost me $470 approx including steel pan. Anyone else heard about this oil?

I just finished swapping some injectors. The new ones are standard, just cleaned. Installation went ok, just a bit of a pain with all the LPG gear in the way. No leaks and she runs fine. However, when I was cleaning up I noticed that one of the old injetors was missing an o-ring that would have been on the fuel rail side. Without pulling everything apart, is it possible that the old o-ring is still stuck in the fuel rail along with the new injector? Is it even possible??? Or is it more likely that I have dropped an o-ring in the engine bay somewhere? There are no leaks, engine runs fine but its just at the back of my head that im missing the o-ring and its still in the fuel rail. I had a look around the side of the engine when everything was back together and I couldnt spot the missing o-ring.

Im from Camden also, you must have seen me around!

A friend of myne works for Ford and went to Sweden with them. Managed to get some of his pics:

Ive been reading this thread and have enjoyed it so far. I dont think anyone is being harsh its just interesting seeing a new kid in town and his take on life. Welcome to the forums #2010fgxr6turbo, only advice I can give you is that this place is full of information and I suggest you have a good look around read more before you stick your big head out as im sure it will again get chopped off.

pfft 98 octane.....LPG 100 + octane

Looks good but just cant look past your old blue beast. With all the time, money and effort involved in building up that powerful LPG sustem, why did you depart with her?

I went on this cruise last year and im a local from Narellan. Can I suggest instead of turing right onto Narellan rd, we turn left and then turn onto the Camden Bypass then onto Menangle and Douglas Park. When we turn right onto Narellan Rd there is too many traffic lights, especially through Macarthur Square where the group lets split up and lost. If we go Left onto Narellan rd, we will only see 1 set of lights then onto a dual carriage way 100km zone (camden Bypass) all the way to the Gong.

The biggest problem I had with adding ice into the system for the water/air intercooler was that I had to drain some coolant from the system reservior before you could add ice. Since you should be using some sort of anti-corrosion fluid (coolant) in the water/air system it became messy, annoying and can be expensive over time. Also, is only possible to add ice if you include a decent sized reservior. I had a reservior a bit larger than a car battery (passenger side front) as you can see in the pic I posted. Even if you drained half the reservior, you couldnt get that much ice in there.

This thread is getting long, not sure if its already been questioned... So the support for the XCAL1 is ceasing, whats stopping a tuner from using the XCAL1 tuning software to tune my car? Is the manufacturer sending updates to the tuners to lock them out of the XCAL1 software? If this is the case, could the tuner not 'update' their software and continue to tune with the XCAL1?

I used a factory water to air setup on my twin turbo Toyota Corona that I built a few years ago. The engine was a 2.0L inline 6 with an intake similar to our Falcon I6. The engine came facotry with either a air to air or water to air intercoolers and I used both but settled on the water to air for some stealth. From my experience, Id stick with an air to air intercooler setup. The water/air setup had consistant performance, had very short plumbing and was neat and tidy but was far more time consuming to setup and was not a set and forget installation. Im sure the barrell units are far more efficient than the factory toyota water/air unit I used but myne suffered from heat soak as you would expect from sitting on top of the engine. To make the most of them you should try and get them away from on top of the engine although a good volume of water and a large water heat exchanger (I used the largest PWR unit) in front of the radiator will keep them cool inside. I didnt notice any difference in reduced lag by using the short plumbed water/air intercooler in my setup. Im not trying to put you off, its always good to try differrent things which could start a new trend. Just if I did it again, id go the front mount. There are plenty of fmic kits out there that work well and will be cheaper and less hassell.

Its finally all back together. What a crap job!! With the LPG injectors, the wiring was a tangled mess. Good result in the end with no more squealing noise and also my idle is no longer rough which I have had for the last 6 months. I also fitted some bosch 36lb injectors and she runs smooth which is interesting. Just gotta get another tune one day to see what power they will make.

I removed the inlet manifold tonight. What a crap job! The whole cars wiring harness seemed to be wrapped around the runners, along with the liquid LPG injectors. Anyway, looks as though I have a dodgy inlet manifold gasket at #1 cylinder. Looks a bit different material compared to the new genuine ford gasket I bought today. Possibly an aftermarket gasket was supplied with the LPG kit. Not too sure what has happened, maybe the gasket was removed and damaged, then reinstalled.