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  1. This thread is about my territory adventures so may as well do a consolidation post here. I bought another territory, 7 seater, cloth interior, non turbo 2009 model zf awd, 360xxxkm, lightning strike same as the turbo one, trans in limp home mode, clunks and bangs galore, busted tailgate, no oil showing on the dipstick, farked lifters, overheating, slightly missing, $1500. I probably paid too much for it but considering I can do all the work it ain't that bad. So far I've chucked a reco tailshaft in it, new rear shocks, new front diff bushes, new front wheel bearings, new front lower ball joints, front sway bar bushes and links, a second hand set of trans solenoids to fix the trans issue, an engine service, a trans service, fuel filter, thermostat, rocker cover gasket kit, external trans cooler, a front mount intercooler, 1500cc injectors, 255 fuel pump, drop in adjustable fuel reg, valve springs, anti pump up lifters, roller rockers, spark plugs, genuine coils, billet wheel gt3576 with flapper mod, stock dump and stock turbo territory exhaust, engine tune obviously, trans tune, a second hand tailgate to replace the trailer hit one, 4 tyres, brake pads all round and I reckon that's about it. No doubt I'll remember something else once I hit post. I've still got the rear sway bar bushes to install and also rear diff bushes. I'll get to that in 3 months when my arm is better. It started out at probably 130awkw as an na beast, probably went up to 145awkw with a tune and now is sitting at around 275awkw with the turbo stuff installed. Anyhow there is that, now people can read about it here instead of it being spread out through the forum.
    3 points
  2. Valve springs are going in, Plazmaman Pro
    3 points
  3. Thought it would be appropriate to thank the people most responsible for the successful completion of this project. * This bloke needs no introduction. Aaron aka JETURBO for all the engine and fabrication work. Words are not enough to express how grateful I am for the time and effort that Aaron put into this car. The result is something to behold. Thanks mate. * Paul @ PE Customs in Brisbane for the paint job which is perfection personified * Mike @ Mike Savage Custom Bonnets at Bargo in NSW. It’s a hybrid design we cooked up that actually works. It’s that heavy I had to get new bonnet struts to hold it up lol.
    2 points
  4. Bought it. Well, my wife did. I was still riding the porcelain bus.
    2 points
  5. morning all, happy Thursday 💡 happy to have got the gains... after winning the Grand Final by 1 solitary run
    2 points
  6. Quick update....the car still ran a little rough after the new battery...especially idle when cold, but has been like that for quite a while. It also had a very slight hesitation too. On the weekend, I changed both cam senors (Genuine), no burnt wiring on the exhaust side...but wrapped in shielding anyway. I also changed the MAP sensor(Genuine), and removed all injectors ( DEKA's) and gave them a good clean using the poor man method, battery and throttle body cleaner. I re-flashed the tune, started it up, and idled perfectly. Taken it for a few good drives, and I cannot believe how smooth it is. Hasn't been this smooth since I bought it. Feels like driving a new car, and all my power is back too. Spins the wheels at 80ks in third.....hasn't done that for a long long time. It's no longer running rich either. The injectors were pretty dirty with some slight carbon buildup. I noticed the drastic difference in the spray pattern as I cleaned them. Kinda reminded me of a dirty shower head with limescale. Anyway...car is running great.....finally.
    2 points
  7. Obviously, that is the first thing I tried. With modern elbows you can't just guess what the problem is, you have to plug in the scanner to see what codes they have.
    2 points
  8. Hey, probably not easily, unless you had a network log running while you did it. morning all, happy Good Friday (for those that follow that, otherwise just Friday) 📜
    1 point
  9. When I worked at a workshop, we would install a boost reference nipple into the front part of the exhaust to diagnose back pressure issues. If a car is making lots of boost and not much power, this is one of the first things to check.
    1 point
  10. 2.5 years you mean to reply to a thread no one was able to help with, which is why I took it in to a workshop.
    1 point
  11. Hey mate, I ended up taking it in to have it professionally looked over, they took two days to figure out the issue was, it wanst making any power 200rwkw so the tuner took off the back half and she picked up 111rwkw, ultimately was a blocked muffler. I had a few other things done and got the car back with 320rwkw.
    1 point
  12. Nice one man, I've thought about doing this to an na AWD Territory. Cool project
    1 point
  13. I have a couple of sets of turbo rods I can use, also a bunch of turbo pistons etc. I could just slap my spool I beam rods in it and a set of turbo pistons, that will keep it safe to make all the power that turbo can throw at it. So far the trans is fine, I've given it a pretty decent tune up and it's behaving itself for now. Obviously that will change if I throw much more power at it but again, I have some bits I can chuck in it to make it stronger without costing anything. It would be better to have a spare engine so I can do the work on one, then swap it over in a day so there isn't much down time. @Typhoon you're selling an engine ain't ya?
    1 point
  14. As always a quick check with virtual dyno, now it makes 291awkw at 13.7psi vs the 276awkw it was making at 13.4psi previously. It's also only making 203awkw at 3500rpm vs the 300awkw it did on a cold night a few nights ago. That's what's gonna keep the rods in it lol.
    1 point
  15. Once again it's all keefs fault...I installed the gen2 gtx3582r I had sitting on the shelf this morning.
    1 point
  16. Whats better than a single turbo? Two of course! I agree, you should do this
    1 point
  17. It might, one way to find out. Maybe it needs 2 turbos to keep the exhaust separate?
    1 point
  18. Indeed, I blame you lol. Car is much better now though, it's actually decent to drive.
    1 point
  19. Got it all finished a couple of hours ago, test drive successful and a new rocker cover gasket kit got rid of the spark plug hole leaks. As always when going from stock springs to beefy springs, the difference is night and day. It pulls hard to redline now and with decent springs and anti pump up lifters, there is no valve float whatsover. I'm gonna have to raise the rev limiter by 100rpm or so, cos it tagged it in auto mode on the 1>2 shift. Happy days
    1 point
  20. All the best with it mate! I anticipate you'll come back to an FG one day...
    1 point
  21. well, I hope you enjoy it as much if not more than the FG, I guess... would you bring it on a snowies cruise?
    1 point
  22. And don't forget a 460 will need upgraded wiring, I'm running a 320lph pump with stock wiring loom and fuel reg, 350 killer wasps, no probs. Will be going 460 in near future as I go for 400+ tune
    1 point
  23. That's one way of saying you're gonna buy a treadly
    1 point
  24. ready for some gains this evening, after a (hopefully) grand final win in my indoor cricket team tonight
    1 point
  25. For anyone that wants the Dark Argents Paint Code...for their bumber inserts on BF Typhoons or BF aggressor....the code is below...I had mine colour matched...and it's exact....😁 E2 2911 1000ml Mix E74 - 530.7 E10 - 278.7 E48 - 69.8 E36 - 53.8 E59 - 43.6 E61 - 18.3 E25 - 10.2 Take this code to Inspirations Paint, they'll mix it for you. Cheers.
    1 point
  26. aeropro do a plate and cooler. Would want to use AN8 lines and keep line run short. Derale make a thermostat block to help with warmup.
    1 point
  27. It's a good idea man. Not many people run them though. Falcons aren't meant to be tracked hard, especially not at 700kw. I was looking at a Setrab oil cooler, but haven't got around to it
    1 point
  28. I've got the Castrol Edge 20w60 in mine at the moment. It boosted my idle oil pressure on idle to high 20s. The Penrite stuff is probably good to go.
    1 point
  29. 1 point
  30. Got x-ray and ultrasound today, there's a bone spur under the tendon which is causing the pain and my nerve is jumping across the joint when I extend my arm. I've got a follow up with my GP tomorrow but it appears I'll need surgery to scrape the bone. Yay I suppose this year will be dedicated to squats and deadlifts.
    1 point
  31. Yeah it's dead easy to make the car idle higher. Only thing is it will want to push the car along so you'd be on the brakes a lot more often. Worth a try though.
    1 point
  32. Yep I had a 5 1/2 month break from drinking last year, I didn't feel noticeably better but I also didn't feel like sh*t either. Pretty sure I'm gonna stop again cos it doesn't fit in with my desired lifestyle. I only drink on weekends now, but even that is too much to fit in with working out and being productive etc.
    1 point
  33. no wonder why you're hungover I don't miss hangovers at all since I stopped drinking alcohol completely ~2016.
    1 point
  34. Makes sense though....even though it had enough power to start the engine, the sensors would have all been out of their voltage range, triggering limp mode. No wonder it threw 20 codes for just about everything. These are the codes that it threw...the complete list. PO21 Intake cam PO22 Cam not in position to crank PO124 TPS or PPS error PO172 System to rich PO221 Throttle Position Sensor PO223 Voltage output PPS or TPS to high PO224 PPS Sensor switch B PO351 Cylinder 1 Coil fault PO356 Ignition Coil F Circuit Malfunction PO1270 RPM Or Speed out of calibrated range PO2100 Throttle Actuator A Control Motor Circuit Out Of Range PO2105 Throttle Actuator Control System PO2110 Major Failure In Throttle Actuator PO2138 Throttle Position Sensor Or PPS Voltage Correlation Problem PO2139 TPS Or PPS Switch D And F Voltage Correlation Problem. I did have lots of starting issues and big voltage drops starting the car before this all happened.
    1 point
  35. Ok so I've gone to have a look and it's not as straightforward as I first thought. Basically the ignition timing and the idle airflow are both in closed loop control at idle. That means that if you change them to an incorrect value they will self correct in just a couple of seconds. I would need to look further into the tune file and see if there is a way of having either the ignition timing or the airflow not be controlled at idle. This isn't a common thing to be looking for, so I would have to sit down and browse through a few hundred, or possibly a couple of thousand parameters to find a likely candidate, then I would need to flash my car etc etc. While it doesn't cost me anything to do this, it does take a lot of time. This certainly isn't a request you would take to a workshop, as you could easily run up a few hours, or a whole day sorting it out. I'll have a look through the tune when I've got some quiet time during the week, I wouldn't hold my breath for an outcome though.
    1 point
  36. Hi all. I’ve owned my 04 (March) manual stock baxr6t for over 10 years. I’ve been a member on this forum for about the same amount of time. It’s a great resource. I have had problems over this time but have resisted asking for help as I didn’t want to waste peoples time with stupid questions. But the time has come. Here’s a bit of back ground. probably the worst of the problems I’ve had is intermittent missing under load. It’s been an issue for years. I’ve done all the usual things a few times ….Coils, plugs, throttle body, check for vacuum leaks, engine diagnosis… I have generally used a very well known and respected tuning shop in Sydney for 7+ years now. In the last 3 years I have spent $18000 on assorted things to maintain it and try to ultimately sort out this intermittent missing. 16 months ago a had a clutch put in it and they told me to put in a twin plate clutch. I went ahead with it. Rear main seal, flywheel machined, spigot bearing replaced, clutch fluid flush, stud forch, nut-copper crush, racing bolts and spring washers, coolant temp head sensor. Also plugs, turbo t3 gasket, wastegate actuator, sump plug washer. LHS & RHS engine mounts engine insulator. Dump pipe repair drill and tap (helicoil), hot side intercooler piping kit, tail shaft center bearing, exhaust manifold gasket. When I picked up the car I was informed my car had been overboosting to 16 psi and breaking down. Evidence of vehicle running lean. Wastegate diaphragm was found to be damaged and pierced. Unable to control boost. They were unable to determine if any damage had been done to the engine due to this. So they gave no warranty because if this. (As a side note at this point I should mention I had to REPLACE the clutch 3 weeks ago as it was slipping and worn out!) 12 months ago I had 4 tyres and alignment, motor and tranny degreased, wipers, headlight globe, coolant turbo pipe, handbrake adjustment. Also rocker cover, spark plug recess, vct valve cover gaskets replaced. When I picked up the car I was informed battery might need replacing, idler pulley was noisy and will need replacing in the near future, one rocker cover bolt was “worn” and was tightened as best as possible and front cam connectors clips broken on harness and re-secured as best as possible. 9 months ago I had a coolant o ring replaced and coolant flush, motor and tranny degreased, valve cover gasket kit, timing cover gasket set, ribbed pulley replaced, flat pulley replaced, a hose a sump plug washer and a tensioner belt replaced. I also replaced radiator and hose. When I picked up the car I was told clips broken on ignition coil and vct plugs, also connector to crank sensor not clipping on. They secured all clips as best as possible. 5 months ago I had coils and plugs done again and an engine diagnosis. I returned the car 2 days later as it was running terribly. Missing badly and breaking down under load. They said it’s the engine wiring. I need a new loom and the ecu probably needs replacing! My patience and pocket was empty and I drove the car for a couple of months with a terrible miss and stutter, it constantly died at standstill and was rough as it’s ever been. Then as I mentioned before my clutch died and I got another mechanic to put in a standard one. He told me it was very worn! After 12 months?!!! I rang the tuning shop and they told me I should have bought in to THEM, they said it could have been ANYTHING! I informed them that the clutch mechanic said it was worn. And was resistant about bringing it to them as it akways costs me thousands of dollars ever time the look at it and I didn’t have a great deal of money. My car is currently at a auto electrician. It has 2 error codes reading it’s timing running advanced, and a throttle body code. He discovered the cam sensor exhaust side was broken and the wiring burned in the harness as wiring was bridged together by hose clamp on water pipe. Wiring behind engine block burnt in harness, cam sensor faulty under testing. He removed wiring harness from vehicle cam sensors to engine ecu and repaired wiring harness with new plugs on cam sensors. He said upon further inspection the water pipe that caused damage near the cam sensor was moving freely by hand and noted it was not secured to inlet manifold by bolt. He then cleaned , reprogrammed and aligned throttle body. I picked up the car and on the way home it started surging like you wouldn’t believe. It’s a bucking bull. It seems ok under load but when backing off and maintaining speed it is tragic beyond belief. The idle is fine and nothing is showing on the rpm display when it’s jerking like a *#€¥#!. I’m a patient tradesman of over 35 years myself, but I am really at the end of my tether. I have spent now over $20000 and my car is still f@$*#!. I’d be interested if anyone has had similar issues or advice on these matters. Your input would be very greatly appreciated.
    1 point
  37. I haven't tried it yet, I forgot, I'll get onto it tomorrow.
    1 point
  38. I thought "There may also already be a product specifically for this application somewhere?" and found these https://aeroflowperformance.com/brake/brake-accessories/vacuum-pumps Then I found this for $147 BRAKE BOOSTER VACUUM PUMP FITS Expensive Daewoo Late model camira VE VF V6 V8 HOTROD GM 92227002
    1 point
  39. They put a vacuum canister in for my stage 5 crow cams...did the job and a very simple fix. Before that when the idle was low, pulling up to a car Infront of me was dangerous, braking suffered under the right conditions.
    1 point
  40. Hey mate yeah I still have the issue have the issue the last thing I did was replace the the fuel pressure regulator and it still does it. I work FiFio so the car is parked up majority of the time these days. Think I'm going to have to bite the bullet and take it to a shop to have them diagnose the issue.
    1 point
  41. Hey mate I have similar issues and also this exact code on my ba xr6t now Aswell. Mine was open loop faulting. I tracked that to bad oxygen sensor wireing....fixed that. Change oxygen sensor Aswell. But also had TPS... throttle pedal....and 2 other oxygen sensor codes that I couldn't get rid of no matter what I did till I swapped around the ess(?) Relay and came good but the p0172 code I am yet to get rid off and it's using a fair bit of fuel again What I'm about to try is the CHT sensor as it's reading that it's at 1/4 on guage no matter tragic the jumps up a little then down just as quick. ..other thing is I was gonna check vacume leaks again and also fuel pressure return restriction in line as the FPR is fine/new. Don't like using bucket loads of fuel haha
    1 point
  42. Did another log to work still in open loop decided to check fault codes again, now I have a pcm fault. Reset the pcm car went back to closed loop for about 1min and then went back to open loop again, fault code hasn't shown up yet. https://www.instagram.com/p/CTPsdDqBzCw/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
    1 point
  43. Update installed the new o2 sensor. Now it seems to be running better around town went for a drive and got the fuel trip down from 19 to 16. Where it still seems to run rich and cause issue, is idling.
    1 point
  44. From my understanding long-term is what the car has learnt over time?. Can you explain why and also what value I should be looking for on a stock tune?. Put it this way the cars fuel trip on the dash over time has gone from about 13.1 to as high as 25L per 100. managed to get it down to 19 by driving it like a nanna.
    1 point
  45. Custom dyno tune. Intercooler and injectors. No wideband installed, rich as in using not pulling fuel out. Just went for a drive and monitored the 02v and it's stays at .90v and only when blipping the throttle it'll dip down and then return back to .88-90v should be around .45v stoich correct?
    1 point
  46. Finally got around to sorting this. Pulled the fuel module out, as last time I'd had to reuse some fuel hose and wanted to have both lines using the proper flexi stuff. Drilled out the fuel return thing in the bottom of the cradle to 4mm But I also noticed that the return port in the cradle was blocked. Not sure if there is meant to be something there or not, but either way it wasn't passing any fluid. So drilled that out too. Before and after pics below. I now have positive fuel trims (remembering that I fudged my low slopes to tune around the issue temporarily) so think I have resolved the fuel pressure issue. I'll do a few km to make sure the trims continue like that, then flash the correct low slopes back on.
    1 point
  47. I can agree that the xr6 5speed auto is sh*t my car will clunk every time I go from p to r into d when cruising gears won't change properly and even when u punt it hard seem for it to take a few seconds before it starts to move I wish I went for the 6speed zf even my ba mk2 turbo 4speed trans goes better and harder then the 5speed
    1 point
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