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Righto I did my thing and here's an update. I did a comp test and one of the cylinders was low with others being out of spec too. Turns out the head was leaking like a mofo out of the exhaust valves...so I rebuilt the engine. I used stock turbo pistons, Spool I beam rods, upgraded piston pins, Cometic 3 layer MLS, ARP head studs with OS washers, new hx bearings with 360 thrust, inconel high pressure oil pump spring with adjustable relief, oil pump gears and backing plate, Ross balancer, Plazmaman intake and maybe more I forgot. I got hectic with the valve grinding paste and the head is passable. I relocated my trans cooler under the car and wired in the fan with a relay and a switch. I painted the rocker cover with Black Velvet Cerakote, it was sh*t before and now is a bit less sh*t. Haha I still gotta fit the catch can, I'll do that later I suppose. I've had a successful test drive or 3 today, no leaks etc so happy days. It still runs the same boost, it makes 300awkw on about 14.7psi. This should tide me over until I can afford to rebuilt the actual turbo territory. The only thing I really want to do with it now is to have electronic boost control, the na pcm doesn't have that so I'm in the gutter using a boost tee. Here's a pic, hard to believe I did it all in the span of 1 week, in the driveway, while still having family commitments.

Cheers, this is my cart... add hose, rad zip ties and gulf western atf, filter and gasket and I think im sorted. https://imgur.com/ZB15x18

and the motorbike I had to sell (hence buying myself a 'nice' car) due to personal tragedy. and finally the pos VW boring as hell econobox diesel that's about as exciting as a fridge without an ice maker.

I'm an Atheist haha so you can put the hail-mary's approximately here

swap the plastic connectors around, just push in the sides inside the holes and pull the connector off. Unclip the ear nose clamps, holding the existing hoses on and replace with an L shaped hose by Gates, Part number is 02-0025

Unsure what the coolant ID size is (19mm maybe)? I'd just use copper pipe as it's easily flared and bent but that's me. Pretty sure they sell a pipe to connect them and fits to the old mounting locations but unsure of the name...

what is everyone doing in regard to the coolant lines that go into the exchanger once they bypass it to an oil/air cooler at the front? I could just leave it connected but if the inside of the exchanger degrades im going to be dumping my coolant all over the road lol. https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/PWR-PWO0528-XPX-Trans-Oil-Cooler-280-x-255-x-19mm-3/8-Hose-Barb https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/Raceworks-RWF-411-08-06BK-AN-Female-to-Barb https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/transmission-oil-cooler-adapter-fittings-2pk-ford that's what im planning on using, plus some 3/8" tube of course.

Yeah man, 80/20 is the bare minimum for us too. Hopefully we get fibre over the next 10 years or less.

I have HFC here with FttN NBN. Had 100/40 for ages with a cheap ISP and it was a barely okay sort of service. Upgraded that to a more internet focused service provider more recently to 250/20 and it's a lot better.

I read the replies on the thread early on boys but didn't get a chance to reply until now. With the battery tray, because of the way ANTZ have the tray propped up just by one support in the centre and also because the metal tray can be flexed, the battery can be rocked with pressure forward and back. I worked out the easiest fix is to drill 2 bolt holes into the tray and make a support and drill that into the engine bay metal (small screws). Should work a charm. Just have to get a flat bar of metal and I should be set!

There's a huge list of "pros" like you've listed for the country-living, but a huge list of "cons" as well, same as for living nearer to the city... I'll weigh it all up and spend heaps of money either way haha.

yep, or move out to the middle-of-nowhere and get a MUCH cheaper mortgage haha

I got laid, so can't complain