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Hi all, it's been a while.. I couldn't get the VN ready in time for Rockynats, so I put some time in to the old girl and got her mobile again. As I had to pull the IRS to replace the outer diff support bushes, I decided to finally assemble the Try Trac that has been sitting in the shed for the past 4 years. While I was at it, I put a new set of Dana gears, so that I didn't have to cannibalise the centre that was being removed. Having missed all previous Rocky Nats due to work, I decided that I was not going to miss another. I have a great time, met many wonderful people and checked out some really cool rides. I didn't take any pics of the car, but I found some on the Nat page that I have shared below. I have also included a current pic of the bay. It has changed somewhat and looks a lot neater. The car was running really crappy, which is why I haven't really been interested in it. My tuna (Joke) installed the latest firmware update and utilised the new manifold pressure predication vs fuel table, car now runs like factory, no more hunting at idle, or stalling. For the first time in a while, I can honestly say that I really enjoy driving the car again. I have also started to make some carbon parts again, although it has been somewhat of a learning curve. I am currently toying with a new rocker garnish to suit the FG rocker cover (1st attempt failed due to air leak in the bagging, so I laid up a new one in the mould tonight) and will soon start on a modified version of the radiator sight cover. I will also have to find some time to remove the dash, as the dreaded mixer shaft failure has finally eventuated. FML Until next time... 🍺

Righto I did my thing and here's an update. I did a comp test and one of the cylinders was low with others being out of spec too. Turns out the head was leaking like a mofo out of the exhaust valves...so I rebuilt the engine. I used stock turbo pistons, Spool I beam rods, upgraded piston pins, Cometic 3 layer MLS, ARP head studs with OS washers, new hx bearings with 360 thrust, inconel high pressure oil pump spring with adjustable relief, oil pump gears and backing plate, Ross balancer, Plazmaman intake and maybe more I forgot. I got hectic with the valve grinding paste and the head is passable. I relocated my trans cooler under the car and wired in the fan with a relay and a switch. I painted the rocker cover with Black Velvet Cerakote, it was sh*t before and now is a bit less sh*t. Haha I still gotta fit the catch can, I'll do that later I suppose. I've had a successful test drive or 3 today, no leaks etc so happy days. It still runs the same boost, it makes 300awkw on about 14.7psi. This should tide me over until I can afford to rebuilt the actual turbo territory. The only thing I really want to do with it now is to have electronic boost control, the na pcm doesn't have that so I'm in the gutter using a boost tee. Here's a pic, hard to believe I did it all in the span of 1 week, in the driveway, while still having family commitments.

Thought it would be appropriate to thank the people most responsible for the successful completion of this project. * This bloke needs no introduction. Aaron aka JETURBO for all the engine and fabrication work. Words are not enough to express how grateful I am for the time and effort that Aaron put into this car. The result is something to behold. Thanks mate. * Paul @ PE Customs in Brisbane for the paint job which is perfection personified * Mike @ Mike Savage Custom Bonnets at Bargo in NSW. It’s a hybrid design we cooked up that actually works. It’s that heavy I had to get new bonnet struts to hold it up lol.

This thread is about my territory adventures so may as well do a consolidation post here. I bought another territory, 7 seater, cloth interior, non turbo 2009 model zf awd, 360xxxkm, lightning strike same as the turbo one, trans in limp home mode, clunks and bangs galore, busted tailgate, no oil showing on the dipstick, farked lifters, overheating, slightly missing, $1500. I probably paid too much for it but considering I can do all the work it ain't that bad. So far I've chucked a reco tailshaft in it, new rear shocks, new front diff bushes, new front wheel bearings, new front lower ball joints, front sway bar bushes and links, a second hand set of trans solenoids to fix the trans issue, an engine service, a trans service, fuel filter, thermostat, rocker cover gasket kit, external trans cooler, a front mount intercooler, 1500cc injectors, 255 fuel pump, drop in adjustable fuel reg, valve springs, anti pump up lifters, roller rockers, spark plugs, genuine coils, billet wheel gt3576 with flapper mod, stock dump and stock turbo territory exhaust, engine tune obviously, trans tune, a second hand tailgate to replace the trailer hit one, 4 tyres, brake pads all round and I reckon that's about it. No doubt I'll remember something else once I hit post. I've still got the rear sway bar bushes to install and also rear diff bushes. I'll get to that in 3 months when my arm is better. It started out at probably 130awkw as an na beast, probably went up to 145awkw with a tune and now is sitting at around 275awkw with the turbo stuff installed. Anyhow there is that, now people can read about it here instead of it being spread out through the forum.

Valve springs are going in, Plazmaman Pro

I dont think you can call it Na anymore. Its got more fruit than a turbo terry since you've been hard at work

Cheers, this is my cart... add hose, rad zip ties and gulf western atf, filter and gasket and I think im sorted. https://imgur.com/ZB15x18

I've increased the boost on the na+t territory and it makes a bit over 300awkw and 600nm on 15psi. As a result the trans needed an update to the tune, which I did this morning. Once again the shifts are quick and crisp and you wouldn't know it's an na trans in there. I think this is where I'll stop the increase in power, it is a na engine after all. When the time is right I'll do some minor engine work to it so it can handle all the boost, but for now it will do.

THE END

does add a certain uniqueness to your car; nice and the rear bar with the twin exits looks great

I put a built trans into the na territory today. Holy sh*t it's a night and day difference!

and the motorbike I had to sell (hence buying myself a 'nice' car) due to personal tragedy. and finally the pos VW boring as hell econobox diesel that's about as exciting as a fridge without an ice maker.

I'm an Atheist haha so you can put the hail-mary's approximately here

swap the plastic connectors around, just push in the sides inside the holes and pull the connector off. Unclip the ear nose clamps, holding the existing hoses on and replace with an L shaped hose by Gates, Part number is 02-0025

Unsure what the coolant ID size is (19mm maybe)? I'd just use copper pipe as it's easily flared and bent but that's me. Pretty sure they sell a pipe to connect them and fits to the old mounting locations but unsure of the name...

I have HFC here with FttN NBN. Had 100/40 for ages with a cheap ISP and it was a barely okay sort of service. Upgraded that to a more internet focused service provider more recently to 250/20 and it's a lot better.

I read the replies on the thread early on boys but didn't get a chance to reply until now. With the battery tray, because of the way ANTZ have the tray propped up just by one support in the centre and also because the metal tray can be flexed, the battery can be rocked with pressure forward and back. I worked out the easiest fix is to drill 2 bolt holes into the tray and make a support and drill that into the engine bay metal (small screws). Should work a charm. Just have to get a flat bar of metal and I should be set!

There's a huge list of "pros" like you've listed for the country-living, but a huge list of "cons" as well, same as for living nearer to the city... I'll weigh it all up and spend heaps of money either way haha.

You want to have it within an adaptation range so it can adjust the pressures if necessary. There are multiple types of adaptation and subsequently various temp ranges for them. Slipping adaptation starts at 70C, so it would be wise to wait until then before giving it the berries. To make things interesting there is a 3C hysteresis on the trans temp, so maybe wait until 73C lol.

Maybe I should have said "waste of time in a street car in Canberra". Mine turned on once in 6 years I reckon and even then the transmission was well within its safe range. The manual override was a more useful option - I used to flick that on when the trans was warmed up and I was working it hard.

nice work on squeezing that in for ACDT morning all, happy Friday 🔖

I guess it might have to be another stock injector. Well I'm pretty positive it's the injector. I put new plugs in and gapped them to .7 still ran the same, swapped coils with cylinder 1 was still the same. Very noticeable on the graph when reving, holding 2000rpm levels out but some exaust popping, taking my foot off the throttle after holding revs the graph on number 5 goes crazy unless I got a bad plug ? Double checked fuel pressure and it's 4bar with out vacum connected. It's not picking up any codes except p0420 and that's cause my cats been taken out

gotta love an easy fix

I downloaded South Park, the fractured but whole, on the ps5. Apparently pressing the fart button repeatedly annoys the missus.

Hi guys, I'm installing a walbro 460 intank pump and I know I need to drill the return line out to 4.5mm. Is this the right one? Can anyone explain what the center one is for as it's blocked? Thanks,

Great job! I will have some pics of my fgx adventures soon, efr 9174, artec high mount, farmer made custom 4 inch dump etc.

When I worked at a workshop, we would install a boost reference nipple into the front part of the exhaust to diagnose back pressure issues. If a car is making lots of boost and not much power, this is one of the first things to check.

Oh yeah that's right! I'd forgotten it was that bit!

As always a quick check with virtual dyno, now it makes 291awkw at 13.7psi vs the 276awkw it was making at 13.4psi previously. It's also only making 203awkw at 3500rpm vs the 300awkw it did on a cold night a few nights ago. That's what's gonna keep the rods in it lol.

Hey mate. I honestly can't remember exactly where the other hole was, but I remember just visually tracing how fuel flows through the module to identify any restrictions so I suspect it will be obvious once you are in there. Sold the car last Friday so I can't even have a look to confirm. I did also have to adjust the low slope a little to get LTFT spot on. As Puff says this is likely just due to aftermarket dump and cat so nothing unusual. Since the above, car behaved beautifully in the years following.

can't go wrong with that idea

I'll take the blame turbo'ing every car that you buy should be mandatory

woo progress

Good outcome mate. Exact experience I had going from 10W40 to 20W60. I even found the 15W50 Penrite 10 tenths not quite enough. Do you roll around on the road at 1000hp all the time?

All the best with it mate! I anticipate you'll come back to an FG one day...

All that effort and then they choke the life out of the engine with a 1" ID cast pipe under the battery! Interesting none the less... I'll add that back in the early days I did prefer the look of the APS intake at the throttle body, this was before Nizpro released but they were expensive as hell even though I still believe their intercoolers were designed right. No actual facts just my opinion on entry bottom, exit top being the most efficient yet you never see it anymore...

Did another log to work still in open loop decided to check fault codes again, now I have a pcm fault. Reset the pcm car went back to closed loop for about 1min and then went back to open loop again, fault code hasn't shown up yet. https://www.instagram.com/p/CTPsdDqBzCw/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Did another log on the way home from work, https://www.instagram.com/p/CTO1Wqah5S1/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link Drove alot better than it has for a while fuel trip still continues to come down, its only when on idle it's having the issue. I heard that the factory fuel rail can rust over years internally and gunk up the fpr, hopefully it'll be that or the return will see this week. Only thing I noticed is the whole time it stayed in the open loop which I'd think is odd as open loop is the ecu not taking reading from the 02 correct?.

No I mean stock as in base boost etc accounting for the injectors. Just grabbed a FPR will swap it out in the coming days. Did a log on the way to work, the 02 was hunting all over the place unless I take my foot off throttle and then it sit about .078 Long fuel trims hunted for a while and then sat at 0%. And the short trims were all over the place and then would sit at -18.79% and go up when more throttle was applied. Here's a screen shot of the log from Forscan last night. https://www.instagram.com/p/CTNSJhvhbTF/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet

From my understanding long-term is what the car has learnt over time?. Can you explain why and also what value I should be looking for on a stock tune?. Put it this way the cars fuel trip on the dash over time has gone from about 13.1 to as high as 25L per 100. managed to get it down to 19 by driving it like a nanna.

Custom dyno tune. Intercooler and injectors. No wideband installed, rich as in using not pulling fuel out. Just went for a drive and monitored the 02v and it's stays at .90v and only when blipping the throttle it'll dip down and then return back to .88-90v should be around .45v stoich correct?

Any update to this, I've got a MKII 04 XR6T and have been dealing with the same issue, and similarly replaced alot of the same parts with no success. Just purchased Forscan OBD and from what I could see no significant faults that would cause this issue. Just purchased another o2 sensor in the hopes that the previous one I installed might have been d.o.a any help would be great! T.I.a.

what does the hot water do and if it’s stops the rough idling then how and what’s causing it I’ve changed coils,plugs,02sensor,I had only put on new keyless pads with keys and did it fords way press rear demister button for three times and when door locks open press each button on each pad so you know they are setup correctly First drive after doing these my car has been idling fine when cold as soon as it’s upto normal driving temperature the car idles very roughly when I put it into neutral it’s okay WHAT IS CAUSING THIS NIGHTMARE OF AN ISSUE SURELY MY CAMSHAFT HASNT GOT THIS LUMPY GRIND IT WOULD HAVE DONE IT PRIOR TO THIS IVE HAD CAR SEVEN YEARS NOW ONLY 112,300klms very good condition

Another pump question. BF xr6t - flash tuned and flowed injectors only (stock pump). After sitting for a couple of hours when starting you need to hold the key on for a few seconds before starting. Strait starting results in pre-ignition or backfire (which blows the PCV hose off). 1: Is this likley to be caused by fuel pressure dissipating when shut down? 2: If yes, are there a few likely causes. I can buy a guage and test but if there are other ways to diagnose the prob with my eyes, or if there is a common fault peeps know about I can save the money. Thanks in advance

for 320rwkw, a GSS340 is plenty for an in-pod pickup pump and provides the pickup abilities for surge-tank setups if you go that way for more power in the future.

no worries

Thanks 4321, I'll check it out over the weekend! Why would running an earth from battery to engine change anything? Is there a known farthing issue with these cats? Cheers again for the help!

Don't try & clean sensor just replace it with a new quality one (only the frount one not the one under the car) O2 sensors are not designed to last the life of the vehicle veiw them as a long term spark plug. While these engines have suspect coils (replace with genuine only) if it runs good on the road it does not sound spark related, as you accelerate you add more fuel and therefor need more spark to light it. If there's not enough spark at idle there's not going to be any were near enough under acceleration for it to run properly. by all means change the spark plugs (and do a comp test while your there) check or replace coils is a maintenance thing on these engines. You might just have a leaking inlet gasket or the injectors need cleaning but you have to make sure the basics are right

its not a very good pic

Genius I don't suppose you have a pic of it with the airbox cover off?