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My gold ute has a highmount (jpipe) and I put an ally overflow on after org one melted. Ally one got to hot to touch. Ended up coating it in heat reflecting tape and making a heat shield that also coated in tape. Heatsheild made biggest difference. Its only a finger gap from overflow, n around two to turbo, but was most effective. If it was a daily id put a turbo beanie on.

I have wrap ready for my aftermarket dump pipes and was thinking about a beanie purely because up here it's a farking joke as far as temperature goes (humidity is off the charts but we've had some rain, Yay!). I figure the less heat in the engine bay the better and I believe the scoop is restricting air extraction somehow. I'll remove the top weatherstrip at the windscreen wiper area that seals the bonnet again and monitor the temps.

So.. Fixed all the issues I've had, turns out the spark plugs were causing interference in the canbus system causing the pcm to lose communication with the abs module and lose it's speed data. Oh well. Changed the rocker cover to an FG one with FG coil swap too. Back on the factory PCM and going on the dyno to check my tuning capabilities before the 1/8 mile drags on the 20th Feb

Hell yeah there's enough fuel now!!! There's just the right amount actually I'll gap the plugs tomorrow after work unless I've melted into a puddle. I am planning to get an turbo beanie and also wrap the dump so I can get rid of the temporary heat shield I've got in there atm. That should help stuff and things. I already ordered and paid for the alloy tank so I may as well use it. In saying that, I can measure a thing or two, so welding up tanks etc should be doable. Just gotta make some time. Also it's gonna cool right down by the weekend so hopefully can get some quality dyno time in.

If it has a generic tune I'd say valve springs if the car runs like crap then clears up without a restart. Overboost from memory requires a restart to run properly again afaik. You can remove the spark plugs and squash the gap down to 0.70mm to save screwing around. I always did 0.60mm with 18-20psi on my BA and 0.65mm on my 08 F6X. As for boost, I'd buy a generic obd2 dongle (Bluetooth, wifi or usb) and use the Torque application from the Android store or use ForScan with a laptop (free license for a set amount of days). That will tell you what boost you are actually running as well as some other things like Long and Short term fuel trims etc. If you can I'd jump on the highway in 3rd gear from as low an rpm as possible (needs to be in sports mode with you manually changing the gear so it doesn't jump down a gear) and full throttle if you can up until at least 4500rpm+ (speed issues is more of a concern by this point). Have a mate with you to monitor boost, I assume you've tapped into the vacuum line at the manifold? Other little things are cleaning the throttle body and using a catch can so it doesn't ingest oil from blow by at its age.

Fitted my 2200cc injectors this afternoon. The tune I had prepared for it was for 98 so the injector scaling was incorrect. No wideband at the time so a few attempts later I had it running ok and pulling out some fuel at idle. Thank fark for partial writes! Looking through the log that I did on the way home showed that the trims were pulling 1% fuel at 110kph with a whopping 3% injdc. Got on it a tiny bit to 4500rpm and saw 35% injdc at 23psi. It's good enough for now and will touch it up on the dyno over the weekend.

There is a slight difference in dwell time for the FG coils, I just did the swap myself. Fixed a miss at higher rpm by just swapping coils.

I would like to have at least 5 gears. I want to keep this on the street and street drive it. Also want to road course it aswell.

Paid more then this to have a BA motor sent to the US.....lol RIP