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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/11/20 in all areas

  1. Heh take a listen here. Some good info inside.
    1 point
  2. I used a machine that does them on the car. It's a very quick process compared to the old method, once you've got the hang of it.
    1 point
  3. Insert barra into Aussie racing car (silhouette?) for unimaginable track fun I'm guessing!
    1 point
  4. The N/A BTR is vastly different to the Turbo / V8 BTR it’s capability to handling higher Torque ratings so the expected lifespan of a N/A BTR strapped behind a Turbo engine will be limited when driven beyond a medium pace
    1 point
  5. I can take a pic of mine for you to use as the before shot! They don't shudder but look nicely grooved and glossy... I doubt they'd fit in the father-in-laws lathe and I'd rather poke my eyes out with a stick than use his (any) milling machine!
    1 point
  6. There's a nipple on the front of the stock turbo that goes to the boost control solenoid and then a separate line comes out of the solenoid and goes to wastegate nipple. If the GTX3582R you have doesn't have a nipple to connect to you do what Puffwagon said and drill+tap a line and then run it the same as the stock turbo was.
    1 point
  7. I’ve recently had a MkII T56 gearbox fitted in replacement of the MkI T5 in my Series 1 XR6T. It was done by Nizpro, but the installed looks and actually is very simple. Here’s the details. Parts Required: Ford T56 MkII gearbox (Approx $6k), BA XR8 Gearbox Yoke ($190), MkII BA Gearbox Crossmember ($180), a connector to fit to the reverse lock-out solenoid connection. At the same time I had a Nizpro twin plate organic clutch fitted which easily handles the 360 rwKw / 775 Nm the car is making. The clutch is smooth and light (pedal pressure), lighter than the original clutch and engagement is even across the pedal travel (ie not all out at the bottom, etc). Feel is “as” factory, but it can handle the punishment !! Install: 1. Pop gear boot cover and undo two bolts on shifter. Remove shifter. 2. Unbolt T5 (engine bolts, tail shaft, cross member). Best to do this on a hoist. Disconnect wires (only reverse lights). Remove T5 reverse switch (needed in conversion). 3. Unbolt clutch / flywheel combo and fit new flywheel / twin plate combo. Don’t forget to torque all bolts and use loctite as appropriate. 4. Disconnect exhaust at the centre muffler flange. This allows the engine to “rock” on the engine mounts a bit and allows easier fitment of the T56. 5. Remove the T56 reverse switch and screw in the T5’s in it’s place. 6. Get you mates to hold and slot the T56 into place and replace the original engine bolts (same as used for the T5). You can prop the engine at the front, to cause the gearbox flange to be tilted down. This makes it easier to slot in the gearbox. 7. Slot in the XR8 gearbox yoke, and fit the MkII cross member (you’ll need a few M6 nuts as it didn’t seem to come with them ?). 8. Bolt on the tail shaft and cross member (bolts directly to MkI location, no new holes to be drilled) using original T5 fasteners. 9. Reconnect the reverse light loom connection. 10. The T56 has a reverse selection lock-out solenoid that needs 12v to prevent accidental selection (as reverse is next to 5th). When reverse is wanted the solenoid needs to be de-powered. You can run a wire from one pin of the solenoid to ground and the other pin to 12v on the brake light switch. ie. to select reverse you need to put your foot on the brake. A good safety feature !! The loom for the MkII is available from Ford, this will get you the connector at the solenoid. Mine is actually done using some ECU pins (pushed over the solenoid connections) and fixed in position with some epoxy. The potentiometer on the brake switch has three connections (?) and you need to get the correct one. I think Dave said it was the bottom connection. 11. The T56 is already filled with Dextron III from the factory, you can change it if you want. I’ve got a bottle of Transmax Z, but I thought I’d run it in a bit first before changing. 12. Reconnect exhaust flanges, and torque all bolts. If you couldn’t be bother doing it yourself, Nizpro can probably help you out, or any competent mechanic. Some pics of the install follows. T5 - old T5 soon to be gone Twin Plate - layed out for all to see Twin Plate In - flywheel / twin plate fitted up OEM Clutch - original clutch, worked Ok but slipped, see the heat marks !! MkII Crossmember - new MkII crossmember replaces MkI, a bolt in. T56 - It's in !!! Robin.
    1 point
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