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Hey guys. Been such a long time since I've been on the forums. How is everyone? Last time I had any contact was ages ago!!! Smurfs still in action, well wasn't for 2 years as I was rebuilding bigger and better. Anyone in Sydney?

Finally remembered to chase up these photos.

it looks a LOT better than it used to haha glad the OP's taste has changed

gone from raspberry cordial to milk took the opportunity to clean the GPU waterblock there was a little bit of green slime that had to go

looking a lot better in the tune

Some more good have arrived and been fitted.. Illuminated window switch, Wuhan special. It works but the auto down isn't auto lol Genuine camber bolts too.. My knuckle doesn't have provisions for these so I will have to track down a second hand set or work out a way to get them to work. Finished up with a touch up tune this morning also.. Good I think, less boost more power better torque curve. Feels nice to drive, strong yet effortless when cruising.

Most peeps on here are fairly knowledgeable. With respect, no chance of selling it on here at that price. Try other market places. If you get anywhere near that price hats off to you.

Bit of an interior clean for the work horse with new shift & handbrake leathers today. Seat and steering wheel leathers are getting very shabby but I'll stretch a couple more years out of em. Hopefully picking up a new door for me xf panel van tomorrow after I did the old 'reverse with the door open and clean up the wheelie bin' trick.

One of 2 for the rear end of a 80 foot catamaran Billionaire's can be helpful to keep the work coming in [emoji13]

Shiny shiny [emoji851]

Coils are wired and the car starts and runs a lot better. I fixed the exhaust leak that we had at the turbo/dump pipe v band. I decided to change the exhaust housing to a 1.15 while I was at it. I also fitted the new billet thermostat housing and removed the header tank. It really opened up a lot of space... Only a fuel line leak to fix and she'll be ready to hit the dyno again...

Yes, was quite costly. But Im hoping it will be worth it once I achieve the power levels Im chasing. The tyre/grip levels on these are very under-engineered for the stock power levels, not to mention 500rwkw... And no, no guard rolling required whatsoever. Even at full compression there is plenty of clearance.

As I found Jumbuck's posts from August last year the most helpful in determining my wheel specs I thought its only fair I post my findings. Hopefully this will help anyone wanting to know how wide they can go on the rear without running into guard clearance issues. I had my wheels custom made as a one off set, just like Jumbuck did. I was trying to achieve maximum possible width in tyre contact for my street setup. Rears pictured, are 19x10.5 +52 offset Tyres are: Front 245 35 19 Rear 295 30 19 Measuring across the tyre the rear is 315mm. I wouldn't advise going any wider than this. There are a few modifications to be made to accomodate this setup.. Superpro control arms (plus the addition of 2mm shims to add a fraction more clearance) Low profile bolt in upper shock mount Shortened shocks. NO guard work required. Can just make out the shims between arms and hub The shortened shocks lift the wheel slightly at full droop to avoid contacting the chassis I measured 6mm clearance to guard edit: the car is a 2015 FGX XR8. The shocks were shortened by 10mm The upper shock mount was modified by notching a square into the bolt hole to allow an internal locking bolt and the fixed nut was ground off the back to add a nylock nut for tightening Thanks again to Jumbuck

Dummied up, ready for wiring... It was supposed to happen today, but my wiring guy/tuner had issues with a car he was dynoing.. Next week it is... I found that the mating the spring in the boot and the coil was questionable, due to the spring seating lower in the silicon. The coil is long enough to reach the spring, but you can't ensure that it is correctly seated. I stretched the spring with some pointy nosed pliers until it was flush with top of the silicon, so that I could seat it into the coil before it engages the silicon. Also be aware that the silicon will separate from the coil when removing and the pill will fall into the spark plug valley under the coil bracket... The silicon is a snug fit into the bracket and takes some effort to remove..