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I know of a dead stock TCM tune being used on a $10000 built box. 850hp engine. All the “tuning” as such is done from within the Haltech!

Cheers mate for the help, I'll try it out tomorrow and report back.

It looks like your boost gauge line is smaller diameter than the vac lines, but has that T piece. So connect that line to the gauge and into the middle of the T. Then just cut a vac line under the bonnet and connect those to each end of the T. I'll grab a photo later if the sort of thing you are looking for. That BOV you have taken a photo of is the actual air path for the BOV, not the vacuum line that controls operation of the valve. There will be a much smaller line floating around somewhere that been blocked off as well. You see the size you are looking for when I grab a photo.

We all been there/here :P

Tune switch is not done on factory ecu car has Haltech in it. The one in my car has 12 setting to change boost and rev limiter, think of it like it has 12 different tunes you can pick from on the fly. Haltech is fancy bit of gear once you use it you wont go back to stock ecu.

Not sure. I did say dyno this weekend so should probably see about arranging that. The dude has got a back pressure sensor for the dump so we can see how much the exhaust is holding it back. That catch can kit needs installing. I haven't adjusted the cold start or much else for E85 so should do that. It takes 3 cranks to start and can't be driven for at least a minute until it warms up. I know how to fix it though. Wanna do an oil change again so there's that. Have got a steel pan for the auto with gasket and filter to go in, so just need some fluid to get that done. My foot is sore again to the point of not walking and have just developed a cough and cold, so realistically don't have to do anything if I don't want to. I might just sit here and look at it for the next month or two.

If this thread single handily doesn’t show how much of a immature person Arronm is nothing would. Why even bring your useless B/S into general threads regarding general questions Arron ? Seriously no one gives two Chits and no one thinks your “so cool” Your an old man, fruck off and tell all your mates at the Pub how cool you are 😐 Since you’ve always had a crack at nearly every single persons mods/tune/Dyno sheet let’s have a look at your “Magical” witchcraft sheet.... Shall we ? Barely makes 2 psi against the roller - That’s actually really appalling for a GT3582 Takes up until 5000rpm till it makes 15psi ... That’s terribly laggy Power comes over and can’t even pull until redline... Yep what a winner ( performance head that can’t flow past 6000rpm, yeh killer sign me up for one ) Boost can’t even be commanded and held flat... Basic tuning/set up of turbocharger specifics ... ( can’t wait for the excuse on this one ) Power generation down low is pretty average and nothing is showing exemplary efficiency here as depicted by the Torque displacement What you actually have is a “Dyno queen” tune as I doubt a “Fully Built Nizpro” F6 is missing some vital hardware that your tuner is allowing for and can’t ramp it in hard and fast 🤣 Looking forward to you replying to each above statements with facts, know you’ll just sprout off about some totally unrelated issues but you ... Go Girl ! To the bloke who started this thread, Sprints are a good package, I’ve got 414 of 500 and Some might say I know what I’m doing in regards to modifying and tuning Turbo falcons ... Yes the magical 400rwkw zone typically falls just short on the factory turbo GT3582 on 98 fuel so unless it’s tuned Really lazy like old mate above’s graph or on E85 it probably wont do it with full list of mods. Common safe ground is about 18 psi & 360-380rwkw with the GT3582 on the FG/FGX platform A GTX3582 G2 is what you will want to keep as close to characteristics of the factory turbo but have enough support to see the 400rwkw target. This is a well walked path and yes other turbos are on the market that can do it but it’s a more expensive option, characteristics change, manifolds might need to be purchased and the list can go on Typically a punter will want to get to a target with the least amount of outlay and least amount of stuffing around but yes experiment and left of centre options can generate results too... many ways to skin a cat especially if you’re a king killer big wheeler cat peeler Cheers

5,000 or GTFO !

After nearly 6 months, the wiring is completed and installed in the car. I cannot begin to describe my feeling of joy and relief. I really feel like crying.. I know that some will wonder why it has taken so long. The extended duration was due to my wiring guy having a full time job (At the mines), which involves being away from home. Given my familiarity with these circumstances, it has taken substantially longer than normal. However, the man is absolutely fastidious with his work and I'm sure that when you view the pictures below, you will attest to the wait being justifiable. AS you can see, we cut the harness just past the firewall and added a Motorsport connector. This will allow us to completely disconnect the wiring harness in one spot (Except coils), if engine removal is required. I wish that I'd thought of it the first time around.... We've done the same with the Thermocouple amplifiers to allow for ease of removal/installation. Note that they amplifiers are not yet installed into the engine management compartment and that they will be mounted on top of thew wideband and I/O expander modules... So, the beast has been fired, but we had a small trigger issue. It seems to be losing it's home(Can't remember exact term).. We'll put it on a scope and suss it out...