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Agree. I'll let you know in 650odd Kay's if fuel economy changes. Your on the wrong forum to worry about the koalas as well

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https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/GENUINE-FORD-AU-BA-BF-FALCON-FULL-SET-4-UPPER-LOWER-BALL-JOINTS-FAIRLANE-LTD/302934264650?epid=13025119178&hash=item46884a0b4a:g:A1EAAOSwZ1hb0pdQ https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/H-PERFORMANCE-WHITELINE-FORD-BA-BF-XR8-V8-FPV-GT-FRONT-LOWER-CONTROL-ARMS-H-DUTY/263897817653?hash=item3d71892235:g:hNcAAOSwuIRbgN8R https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUPERPRO-FRONT-CONTROL-ARM-UPPER-INNER-BUSH-suits-FORD-FALCON-AU-BA-BF-FAIRLANE/163801842451?epid=24017003724&hash=item262359c313:g:YrQAAOSwlLBdQ4qj

Dont need a $200 tool anymore , go to bunnings get 3 × 8mm d shackles $1.44 and 3 x 8mm x50mm long galv bolts .with the y type old school harmonic balancer tool youve already got (40$ at supers) , Slip the shackle between the 3 spokes ( with the thread at the back )with the crank bolt out . Then with tools adjuster bolt in (use some flat sheet metal or ply to protect the air con radiator) adjust the adjuster bolt so the tool fits flat , put your 8mm bolts in ( a little fidgetty but quick enough , having all shackles facing the same way do up all bolts loosely then when sure the main adjuster is centred tighten att 3 bolts , Then with a big spanner turn turn turn , sure the shackles may take up the slack for a few minuted then it will get harder hit the balancer with some shock ( can help breck the tention bond) keep going till off .. easy as. Notes:: Just removed snorket fan plug and the 2 x 8mm bolts for the fans , keep close in the holes in the top cross bar (radiator support bar). No radiator removal no damaged nuckles , just asked bro to help with the main bolt , he used plumbers wrench to secure the balancer and an extention pipe on the 22mmx1/2 5 sided socket ) I recomend 5 sided to multi socket so as not to round it or your really stuffed,,,,.also 8mmx40mm bolts were too short stripped thread and bent shackle so did 2nd trip to bunnings so 8mmx50mm gets thread all the way into the shackle,,, dont need the $2:48 hardened one .looked too short anyway the galv ones worked fine For me this solves the expensive tool problem as kennards ect dont have them to hire, and lube mobile wont even quote on what they rule , half a job, ( no removing it is the job , its the whole job) I even spoke to the sydney call centre supervisor. They didnt want even $80 for a 5 minute job ..All other solutions involved buying the $200 to $300 tool this is max $50 ,,,, thanks for this forum for hints ive used in the past .happy 98ron to you all   I've been trying to post these pics for my post ,     to show that I did do it and then say that the new one from repco (rac member discount came to $185 plus $12 for steel epoxy putty has 3 thredded holes )TA,

You didn’t pay for numbers. Money doesn’t equal power. The package you have now would be more efficient, better in the mid range, more reliable and have a heap less strain on your engine to make that power. that's about what a Bf makes on 98 fuel at 14 pound when working efficiently. Sounds about right to me. The fact of the matter is you can give someone two cars with two different tunes and the better tune will feel faster, doesn’t mean it’s reflected on Rwkw necessarily on your dyno sheet. Worry about how it feels not the numbers, unless you’re building a dyno queen car, in which case I suggest you change your entire approach mods wise. To make more power on those mods on that turbo it needs more boost... which your tuner may have chosen not to do due to a bunch of factors, condition etc.

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