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Showing content with the highest reputation on 19/07/19 in all areas

  1. So recently working on the old mans GT I was installing some injectors getting ready to " I <3 Bananas send it" lol. Everything went sweet apart from this bloody vacuum connection that broke behind the intercooler. From research it seems to be quiet common but no detailed fixing instruction so here you go. This fitting is connected to the fuel vapour canister purge outlet. As you can see here this is how mine broke with the thread still stuck. Being in such a *beep* of a spot I decided rather than trying to get hands behind there it was easier to just take the intercooler out. To do this start by disconnecting your oil breather from your air intake piping then take your air intake piping out by loosen the hose clamps each end and wiggling the hose off each end. Next take the 10mm bolt out holding your engine oil dipstick to the throttle body housing as you'll need to shift this a little to get the throttle body out. Next disconnect both connection to the throttle body then take out the 4 bolts holding the throttle body and remember to grab the gasket and not let it fall down into the engine bay and look after it!! Might even be worth inspecting and replacing. If you're experiencing the main issue here you know how temperamental these cars get with a simple air leak lol. Shimmy the dip stick out of the way to slide the throttle body out. Next you need to disconnect this "hat" or bracket. They are a 5mm hex bolts so be careful not to round them like I did 🤦‍♂️ Next start taking out the torx screws holding the 335 plate down. From memory I think they are a T20 bit. Once that's off disconnect the T-map sensor plug and move the wiring out of the way, The sensor can stay in. The rubber under the 335 plate is a charger "silencer" from what I was told... Ours looked good in the bin 🤷‍♂️ Next start taking out the 8mm bolts holding the intercooler housing down. You will need a 1/4" uni joint socket and a small extension to get the back 4 bolts out, Handy to keep a magnet on hand as well so you don't drop any bolts down into the bay. Now the housing should just lift straight out. Next take the 6 bolts out holding the intercooler down then just lift the cooler out. Now there's plenty of room to get the thread out, I just used a thread extractor tool. With the tube still connected to the fitting you just push in and hold down the fitting end then pull the tube out. Now I went to Enzed to get some metal fittings because F*#! ever having to do this again because of cheap plastic. The parts I got (on my Enzed receipt) Product code - A72-0604 72 3/8X1/4 M&F Adaptor Product code - 20003-M0806 M STR 8mm Tube X 3/8 BSPT You will also need to disconnect the oil breather line just to screw this fitting in. Now just push the hose back into the fitting and reverse all the steps to put it all back together Hope this helps anyone who has this happen to them and hey.. Least you know how to do half of the job installing a after market intercooler 😈
    2 points
  2. N/A mate, that's the issue....
    1 point
  3. Your inclinometer prob needs calibration
    1 point
  4. Thread name says 600hp but you want 600rwkw, correct? Read threads in this part of the forum to get a good idea of what's required. https://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/forum/189-600-club/ What's the most powerful car you've ever owned/driven? 600rwkw on the street is a sh*tload in anybody's money. Some of the questions you asked in your original post would suggest you're possibly new or at least new-ish to the modified car scene, nothing wrong with that but what you want to do is not beginner level by any means.
    1 point
  5. Lets have another oil war based on personal opinion and manufacturers claims! Fully semi synthetic mineral oil is the best
    1 point
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