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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/01/19 in all areas

  1. Today, with the wifes assistance, I fitted some bosch "1000cc" injectors, a garret 12psi actuator, innovate wideband and tuned it to suit. As I already had injector data from the falcon, I put that in and it fired up straight away and didn't really need adjusting, though I did quickly change them to sus out if I could hold 11:1 afr to redline. #returnfuel I added about 7 litres of e85 to half a tank, turned the boost control way down to get a feel for what it was going to do and after about 5 drives up and down the road it was good enough. I was going to go for 12psi across the board but settled for a peak of 16psi dropping to 13psi. I could have done another couple of pulls to get the 12psi across the board but it felt good there. There is still some duty cycle left in the wg and there is a tonne of dc left in the injectors. The timing is plenty safe, even for straight 98, and will adjust the knock sensors when I get a microphone of some type onto the engine. The afr's are where they should be @12:1 and the car goes very well now. It's just a pity that the intercooler is so useless but that will be done another day.
    4 points
  2. It removes a lot of the moisture in the meat, making the meat and the beef flavour denser/more intense (~10% loss of weight) A "normal" steak can lose close to that when cooking, so the weight loss isn't significant, but the intensity gained is. It allows the break down of the protein/fibres in the cut, making the meat a lot more tender - "melt in the mouth" It ages the fats, making them creamier and more flavoursome Going over 60 odd days brings on a "nutty funk" to the meat which many find exceptional, others find off putting.
    2 points
  3. New one from ford for a FG xr6 turbo was $52. Got it the other day and drives a lot smoother. Don't see the point in doing maintenance when you can just replace it.
    2 points
  4. Nup - have just fitted an air to oil cooler upfront. Factory cooler is still hanging there until I get a fitting to connect the two coolant hoses together [emoji16]
    2 points
  5. 2 points
  6. I managed to get to the drag strip yesterday and take her for pre-engine upgrades and tune baseline times. It was a hot day by NZ standards and she ran a 13.2 on every one of the 6 runs, so very consistent bit never quite breaking out of the 108pmh speed. My 60's were not great sitting in the 2.2s and while happy with the time for a basically stock beast I cannot help wonder if the turbo side intake and bigger cooler may have been holding the factory tune back? My plan is to get over to AU in the next month or two, or find a friend heading over sooner, and collect the new turbo, injectors, pump and tuner from @JETURBO who has pulled together a shopping list for me and hooking me up with a deal.
    2 points
  7. Nice new avatar Fluff. Which dancer are you
    2 points
  8. because falcon owners are tight asses
    1 point
  9. that's why I let her do all the work.
    1 point
  10. Yeah funnels are good too. Chuck a long bit of hose on the end for all kindz of oil hole access. I did the wife's lancer manual trans with a funnel and hose.
    1 point
  11. Yeah should have done that. The drill option is a good tip. Actually a funnel with a hose would have done the job too. I'm 3 litres in (but paused until my fittings arrive) so will probably finish with the little guy, but will pick something up ready for the next trans and service.
    1 point
  12. I wouldn't worry about warm up with going to oil to air and deleting the factory heat exchanger. Heaps of people have taken this approach. There's an email from ZF floating around on a post somewhere where they say the trans heats itself quickly and is designed to operate from -20 degrees. I might be wrong, but to my thinking if your thermostat is closed at startup, the coolant parked in the heat exchanger until the thermostat opens won't be getting warm anyway. One of the items you can read with an OBDII scanner is trans temp so no need to install a gauge. Yes, you will need to top up the fluid. I figured if I was getting under there I'd do a full service and flush anyway. I've taken plenty of pics and will write up a full version of what I did in the next couple of weeks.
    1 point
  13. What car do you have puffy? And why do I feel like this is you not looking at the road.
    1 point
  14. I'm good for either Rab but prolly prefer steak - had an issue with brisket before ... couldn't finish all of it
    1 point
  15. "it was like that before"
    1 point
  16. Kids broke a branch and cable tied it back together. Bush mechanics.
    1 point
  17. well, it's about $300 for a centre bearing, about $1000+ for an upgraded driveshaft... that's without balancing etc.
    1 point
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  21. Hi All, I was surprised to see this thread and how many people appear to be suffering the same "stall at low RPM" problem. My car is a 08/03 build and is a manual XR6T. Reading thru all the posts I see the classic symptoms that I have as well are shared by most others: 1. Problem is worse when the AC is On and the higher it is set (ie Max). I think this is due to the extra load the compressor places on the engine. Many factory setups switch off the electric clutch on the compressor at idle, to prevent this, but it seems the BA set-up keeps the AC clutch engaged at least during initial de-acceleration (ie letting off the throttle, from cruise). 2. As per symptom 1, the problem will occur at the lights, especially as you approach a "red", push in the clutch, and whamo, the idle drops to about 500 RPM and stalls. 3. The problem gets worse, the older the car is. Mine has 53000km on it, when it was new (and standard), it occurred very infrequently, maybe five times in the first 25000kms. Once I got to 40000km it was happening every time I went for a drive. 4. The problem is worse (seems to be anyway) with an interceptor (ie Xede, or Unichip, etc), cause the base mixtures are influenced by the interceptor under the conditions described above (usually for the worse). I noticed someone has suggested and posted that the problem is due to the engine getting an overly rich mixture under the conditions above, and thought this was due to the purge valve sticking open. Effectively flooding the motor and stalling it. Irrespective of if the purge valve is to blame, I think he's got a point. Fuel vapour will be greater when the AC is On, cause it's "hot outside", so the fuel in the tank has more vapour being produced due to heat. Also my problem occurred more when the fuel level was very low (ie tank empty, hence more volume for fuel vapour), or just after I filled it (again, fresh aerated fuel pumped in = more vapour). The reason I say this, is that I have a TSI Pro interceptor fitted. I used the inbuilt diagnostics, and with some help from a friend (one driving, one looking at the laptop), I was able to "see" where on the map the "problem" was occurring. It seems (on the TSI anyway), that on the 500 RPM map at high vacuum settings, the fuel map needed to be reduced by about 5% injection time. Also I "smoothed" the ignition timing at 500 RPM as well, following it down from the 1000RPM map settings, but uping the advance from +0deg on top of base timing, to +2deg. Originally it used 0deg across the entire 500 RPM vs load map. Initially I changed the iginition timing only, but that didn't fix the problem. After changing the fuel map the change was immediately noticeable. Anyway after doing so, I tried to get the problem to occur, and while the idle RPM still dropped when the clutch was engaged, the RPM wouldn't drop as much (down to about 600-700 RPM) and the car wouldn't stall at all. The car so far has never stalled again in 5000 km. So I think (my opinion only), that the OEM base mixtures under these conditions aren't quite right (for that ECU firmware version = 08/03 build at least), and if you have an interceptor you may be able to "fix" this OEM defiency. I don't have a XEDE or Unichip, so I don't know if the info above can be applied to these interceptors or not. If your car is using OEM ECU, keep knocking on the door of your Ford service department !!! Cheers Robin.
    1 point
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