Leaderboard

Drop the trans mount, this will automatically lift the front of the engine and lower the rear of the trans, long extension bars (x2) and uni joint,19mm shallow socket and take it up from the trans mount area and up towards the top of the bellhousing, rattle gun or ratchet and away you go. Now you HAVE TO undo the torque converter bolts FIRST, this is done by taking out the starter motor, using a mirror ( if doing this without a hoist ) and undoing the x4 bolts once you’ve undone the torque converter bolts then tackle the bell housing bolts, then pry the trans away gently from the engine block... making sure the whole time the converter is being pushed back into the transmission ( through the starter motor hole ) the whole time as you want the converter to stay in the transmission as you lower the transmission down from the transmission tunnel. It will all make sense as you're doing it

I recon its time keithy got a new avatar

yeah; going slowly is fine with us

Thanks bud. It's slow going with work, school and family spare time is almost non-existent. It helps build suspense I guess lol.

loving the updates, mate keep them coming. looking impressive in that engine bay; sitting high and proud

I know someone is going to ask why I modified a BA/BF front sump pan after going through the effort of getting a FG rear sump pan. I decided that I can modify the BA/BF pan without worrying about screwing it up since I have an extra. I have to notch the FG pan also. Doing it this way allows me to make the motor mounts and pin down the engine left/right and front/back. I'll modify the FG pan after the motor mounts are made. This way I cut it once and wont have to tweak it later if the motor mounts create an issue. I am probably being overly cautious but each oil pan costs me $300 USD after its shiped halfway across the world.

I removed a "small" chunk from the BA/BF front sump oil pan. I also removed the front sway bar. Now it fits, even with the steering rack in place. IT FITS! The stock hood even closes (barely but that still counts). I am probably going to space the k-member down with 1 inch spacers. This should improve hood clearance, and help with my drive line angle a little. I'd like to see the motor "tilt" a little forward, nose down another 2 0r 3 degrees. 1 inch spacers are not going to give me any handling issues. I'll be able to adjust the suspension with back into spec. Adjustable coil overs, caster/camber plates, offset steering rack bushings and bump steer eliminators are common mods already really common. I have 3/4" spacers in my 5.4 4V 96 Cobra and it handles like its on rails.

750 hp is 560kw. You need a lot of mods for that. What fuel??