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I bought some MSG a few weeks ago. Fark me it makes a good rib sauce. I don't think it'd work with tortillas though. I bought some other cool stuff today. It was second hand but still in great condition and I also got some weight with it. It's also got a few extra attachments than is shown in the picture.

That would be great. The inbuilt screen/software looks decent and the android apps are a huge plus, but the proper support would be fantastic. Would be interested in this too - would like to see what the inbuilt amp options are. Looks like it's already a step above the "premium" ones on the XR6T's, but further mod ability would be great. Are there any obd2 options for android other than via bluetooth? Hopefully their website gets up and some test dummies give the unit a go so we can hear some reviews on how it goes integrating with the turbo's. Something like PCMTEC @DarrylC @rollex integration/display would be fantastic - not sure if android is an option for them though? edit: have sent a message to the guy, hopefully he can jump into the thread and answer some of our queries. Facebook is probably fine for most, but it gets a bit hard to filter the comments for the proper info.

Just popped up on my facebook. Replacement ICC for the FG's (in the comments he says both MK's of the FG and also the FGX) Have been looking for options to upgrade the audio in mine - this may come close. Will wait for some reviews from around, but could be a goer with the SatNav, android and more powerful AMP etc Anyone else heard of this or "Kayhan Audio"?

Make sure if you helicoil that thread you either put grease on the drill bit and tap, or another option is hold a vacuum cleaner nozzle right next to the hole as you're drilling and tapping. Also drop your oil afterwards just in case. You'll need a right angle drill to drill the hole. If you're not confident in doing it get someone who is to show you.

until something major breaks- then see what youd rather have... theres a reason some on here have seriously considered going the (ridiculously) relatively cheap second hand bmw M series, merc amg's etc. but ended up steering clear. even relatively simple consumables (brakes for example) will hit you hard, and if an engine pops- will send you broke. better cars? absolutely. but the performance the barra turbos bring for a pittance are what keeps bringing people to the ford camp....

almost forgot the interior head liner dropped, both on my BA and FG

They are super weak threads in the sump. A helicoil is a good way to fix it if you've stripped the thread. Or re-tap it very carefully.

I tried to turn it off with HP tuners before with the coding advised by HP tuners but it didn't work, from memory the car didn't drive properly with that setting. This was a few years back when I tried. I would normally give a kunt answer also but cause legit question I thought a bit of -ock sucking was in order.

hahaha you guys are all kunts, me included. If the car is tuned, it can be turned off in the tune.

I have seriously been contemplating the RS4. My brother got one second hand recently. Nice clean car and it has grunt. takes off well, but does not have that "butt" Dyno feel to it. The RS6 with the lambo engine would be sweet I think, but they go for 70k second hand. I can't afford that.

Nice purchase

Not much news on the car front really, doing less kays now though thank god! Think it's up around 361,000km or so Glad you enjoyed the read Simbad! It's been a long love affair that's for sure and doesn't look like stopping any time soon. Hopefully one day I can chuck a built engine in!

nice cat pole

Next installment, Harrop Brakes, very brief this time; As mentioned in my initial write up, I went on a pretty big mission to fix persistent brake shudder. This has been an issue in all Falcons from BA onward. EF and EL falcons didn't have the issue as long as we ran factory rotors. Interestingly aftermarket rotors on EF/EL developed brake shudder over about 5,000-7,000 km. Machine the rotors and they would be OK for another 5,000 - 7,000 km and begin shuddering again. My experience with EF/EL falcons was that the factory rotors were quite soft and wore very quickly, I remember the pads wearing into the rotors and raising lips on the outer edges of the rotors say 2mm high. Stock pads were lasting around 20,000km and rotors maybe 40,000km, this said there was never a shudder issue. Aftermarket rotors were a lot harder and lasted much longer but suffered from shudder. The EF/EL experience contributed to my suspicion that the rotor type (harder) played a key role in the issues seen in BA onward. The BA's were getting front pad life of up to 70,000km and rotor life well in excess of this. The rotors on BA's were not wearing out due to wear they were going undersize due to being machined numerous times to correct shudder. I sat on the fence for a while after trying two sets of DBA rotors and disc machining of the stock rotors along with different pad types, none of this fixed the issue for more than 7,000km. Finally I sprung for Harrop brakes, funny story about this, the car was a novated lease through work at the time (hence all the stealthy easily reversible modifications) so I managed to get the lease company to pay for the Harrop upgrade by calling it a repair, sure it was my own money but it was pre-tax at least. History aside, here is a shot of the LH front brake assembly, note the Kmac caster camber kits are installed in the background, also two allen head bolts through the chassis rail just above the caliper are holding the process west surge tank and 044 set up, still running the Bilstein shocks and Kings spring set up at this time. For the super observant out there you may notice the top left Kmac adjuster is at maximum adjustment outward (pushing the top ball joint rearward for maximum caster) while the RH adjuster is set to whatever it needed to be to get to -1.2 degrees camber.

I have an Eaton Trutrac in mine, have to say if I had it to do again I would go clutch style LSD. Half the price, and yes you do have to replace clutches but about that time you will probably need to do the bushes any way. Negative of the Trutrac for me is they wine a bit and you get wheel spin for the single wheel before the other cuts in. Plus it is only LSD when accelerating and single spinner when decelerating or costing so if you use the gears hard to slow down not the same efficient and different balance. Also if one wheel lifts on fast corner it will hit the ground spinning slower than opposite wheel, where as the convention LSD still spins at the same speed when it hits the ground which makes it easier to handle. Ture trac is only better on gravel.

morning all, happy Monday