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  1. Hey guys. Been such a long time since I've been on the forums. How is everyone? Last time I had any contact was ages ago!!! Smurfs still in action, well wasn't for 2 years as I was rebuilding bigger and better. Anyone in Sydney?
    12 points
  2. If this thread single handily doesn’t show how much of a immature person Arronm is nothing would. Why even bring your useless B/S into general threads regarding general questions Arron ? Seriously no one gives two Chits and no one thinks your “so cool” Your an old man, fruck off and tell all your mates at the Pub how cool you are 😐 Since you’ve always had a crack at nearly every single persons mods/tune/Dyno sheet let’s have a look at your “Magical” witchcraft sheet.... Shall we ? Barely makes 2 psi against the roller - That’s actually really appalling for a GT3582 Takes up until 5000rpm till it makes 15psi ... That’s terribly laggy Power comes over and can’t even pull until redline... Yep what a winner ( performance head that can’t flow past 6000rpm, yeh killer sign me up for one ) Boost can’t even be commanded and held flat... Basic tuning/set up of turbocharger specifics ... ( can’t wait for the excuse on this one ) Power generation down low is pretty average and nothing is showing exemplary efficiency here as depicted by the Torque displacement What you actually have is a “Dyno queen” tune as I doubt a “Fully Built Nizpro” F6 is missing some vital hardware that your tuner is allowing for and can’t ramp it in hard and fast 🤣 Looking forward to you replying to each above statements with facts, know you’ll just sprout off about some totally unrelated issues but you ... Go Girl ! To the bloke who started this thread, Sprints are a good package, I’ve got 414 of 500 and Some might say I know what I’m doing in regards to modifying and tuning Turbo falcons ... Yes the magical 400rwkw zone typically falls just short on the factory turbo GT3582 on 98 fuel so unless it’s tuned Really lazy like old mate above’s graph or on E85 it probably wont do it with full list of mods. Common safe ground is about 18 psi & 360-380rwkw with the GT3582 on the FG/FGX platform A GTX3582 G2 is what you will want to keep as close to characteristics of the factory turbo but have enough support to see the 400rwkw target. This is a well walked path and yes other turbos are on the market that can do it but it’s a more expensive option, characteristics change, manifolds might need to be purchased and the list can go on Typically a punter will want to get to a target with the least amount of outlay and least amount of stuffing around but yes experiment and left of centre options can generate results too... many ways to skin a cat especially if you’re a king killer big wheeler cat peeler Cheers
    12 points
  3. Can we please move this to the 1200kw section?
    11 points
  4. Did some tuning today. Apparently gapping the plugs did the trick cos straight away it ran up 605awkw with no tune changes. I frigged around with fuel and boost and this and that, and managed 685awkw at 39.5psi. I brought it in gently as the trans wasn't happy to take much more than 30psi on the hit. There was some trans truncation going on at that power level on the road, so I've turned it back down to about 640awkw for now.
    10 points
  5. Hey guys, Just got a new XR6T from the mainland (I'm in Tassy) Just thought I'd share a few pics.. Good to be back in a Barra after selling my F6 RSpec a little while ago.. - 2005 MKII - 101,000kms original - Rapid V3 intercooler kit - SMB turbo back exhaust system - Walbro 255 with upgraded hoses at tank - Valve springs - FG turbo exhaust housing, ported/flapper mod with 12PSI actuator - Low temp high flow thermostat - Iridium plugs - 5x Genuine FPV "Cobra" wheels - 6 / 4 Brembos - BILSTEIN shocks all round with upgraded heavy duty lowered springs - WhiteLine adjustable swaybars with upgraded bushing and a camber caster kit - Triple gauge pod - DJR lip spoiler - BF tail lights - 344rwkw @ 15psi - tuned by PitLane 8 or so years ago and still going strong! Cheers!
    10 points
  6. After nearly 6 months, the wiring is completed and installed in the car. I cannot begin to describe my feeling of joy and relief. I really feel like crying.. I know that some will wonder why it has taken so long. The extended duration was due to my wiring guy having a full time job (At the mines), which involves being away from home. Given my familiarity with these circumstances, it has taken substantially longer than normal. However, the man is absolutely fastidious with his work and I'm sure that when you view the pictures below, you will attest to the wait being justifiable. AS you can see, we cut the harness just past the firewall and added a Motorsport connector. This will allow us to completely disconnect the wiring harness in one spot (Except coils), if engine removal is required. I wish that I'd thought of it the first time around.... We've done the same with the Thermocouple amplifiers to allow for ease of removal/installation. Note that they amplifiers are not yet installed into the engine management compartment and that they will be mounted on top of thew wideband and I/O expander modules... So, the beast has been fired, but we had a small trigger issue. It seems to be losing it's home(Can't remember exact term).. We'll put it on a scope and suss it out...
    10 points
  7. Just completed and passed a certificate 4 in “Electrical installations in hazardous areas” HV/LV/ELV and certification of existing hazardous areas with the pathway to Diploma well and truly started it was without a doubt one of the hardest assessments ever due to the risk associated with installations and having the ability to now certify others Pretty happy with myself
    10 points
  8. Thought I may as well get a start at a new thread for the 'new' ute... My little brother sends me links to random cars on gumtree and carsales semi-regularly, a few weeks back he sent one that made me look twice; built atomic motor, built auto, g2 gtx3582, wavetrac, tailshaft etc I always thought if I get another barra it would have to have a built motor and auto box, and would prefer a ute again...so all boxes ticked, nitro blue same as the old bitch. Bit of digging and found out the seller was a 3rd mate twice removed in family terms lol The usual back and forth, decided to go ahead. Picked it up a couple of weeks back, haven't taken any photos apart from these To be continued...
    9 points
  9. A small project that I've started.. Sonic tested Fg Mk1 block (Has both BA/F and FG dipstick provisions). Tunnel alignment checked, bearings fitted and clearances measured. Atomic main and head studs (14.3 mm). Factory crank that has been nitrided and stress relieved. Mains and big ends are 10/10. Rotating components balanced. Acl, 360 degree thrust main bearings and ACL big end set. Crank machined and Torrington thrust bearing installed. Atomic 998 conrods, JE ceramic coated pistons, thicker gudgeon pin An interesting find by my engine guy. Misaligned machining of the gudgeon pin oil feed (slot going left instead of right) . We modified all 6 rods. That's all that we managed to fit in today. Hopefully more progress tomorrow... Till then, stay safe.
    9 points
  10. 9 points
  11. Oi let's get all social media about it... If this post gets 5000 likes, I'll fit a gen 2 gtx35r to my territory this week and run 18psi through it. Since we're here in fordville I'll settle for 5 likes or a decent burrito recipe. K go.
    9 points
  12. That last crazy lap I got within 0.2 seconds of my lap 2 PB despite the slow start and skids. I think I can shave a second and a half off if I string it all together with grip the whole time, maybe 2 if it's a really clean lines lap. I'm hoping for some cool footage and action pics from the media. You can see a drone hanging around a chicane in one section, Brad Frost my mate from here and prior Racewars events was part of the media team, had a GoPro and reckoned he got some good footage of me absolutely hooking too, so fingers crossed! Bonus bits Rain setting in after my last lap - not everyone got to do 4 runs! The venerable BARRA. It's stock, officer. Start line antics Racewars Sprint video from FB Simon's incredible machine and skillset on show (he came second by less than a tenth and only get 3 runs not 4 due to rain) Metal fingers while navigating a chicane one handed at 82km/h - pro skillz
    9 points
  13. Well have good news. Just worked with IMS and it is all working as expected. Just a few clean ups but there is now Flex Fuel in the Falcon One thing to fix is Stoich recalc but I was expected that could be a issue to resolve. I will do that and the WOT gear change over the weekend.
    9 points
  14. Did some yesterday and some this arvo. Pulled out the airbox, intake manifold, surge tank and a few more things. Put better stuff in.
    9 points
  15. Having just serviced my ZF transmission and installed an air-to-oil transmission cooler with a fan, the following is a write up of how I approached it.Some of information out there was very scattered or hard to find, so I thought a full write up might help anyone else doing this. This should bring together the whole job of adding a cooler to replace the factory heat exchanger, adding a fan with a thermostatic switch to activate (plus a manual override), flushing the ZF, changing the filter and pan gasket and replacing the mechatronic sleeve. This was a first for me, so if there are things I could have done differently, feel free to point them out so someone else can avoid a mistake or save some time! While it is a reasonable size job, I don’t feel like anything was especially difficult.If you are confident with general servicing and basic wiring, you shouldn’t have any problems!Of course though it is your transmission which is expensive if you stuff it up! I pre-prepared as much of the wiring as I could so that it was already to go when I installed the cooler.You can of course not worry about the fan, as some people do, which significantly reduces this job.In my view, there is not heaps of airflow inside the bumper and while you are stationery, your airflow is zero.I figure if you are going to the effort, you may as well go the whole box and dice.I’ve noticed that the temps stabilise nicely once the fan kicks in, so I think your box will definitely run cooler with a fan installed which should help longevity. My car is a 2010 FG XR6 Turbo, but the principles will be the same for many other cars: -N/A you could mount in front of the air-con condenser and would have less need for a fan due to better airflow -BA/non-ZF BF with a BTR transmission – similar deal, but you are removing existing lines from the radiator, not the ZF’s heat exchanger. A big thank you to those of you who gave me advice and responses to various questions along the way!Also to a couple of BMW videos on YouTube that helped me out with the mechatronic sleeve. Parts list The following is the list of parts I used: Cooler – DC698 Davies Craig transmission cooler and fan kit (you can also get a slightly bigger cooler than this which would also fit but may be harder to fit the fan to). A length of aluminium bar (2x20mm.About 600mm will be plenty) to make cooler mounting brackets. 3/8” hose – 2x 2m lengths will do it.Some comes in the kit, but not enough. Hose clamps – I used EFI ones that don’t cut into the hose as much.4x clamps if you are not fitting a temp switch on the fan, 6x clamps if you are (some will come in the kit if you are using one, but I bought better ones). 1x relay (included in above kit if you go that route) 1x inline fuse (I got the mini blade type so that it was the same type as the car’s fuse box) 1x Narva add-a-circuit to add ignition power (needs to be micro-blade type to suit Falcon fusebox) – saves hacking into the factory wiring Some electrical wire Crimp-on spade connectors Stainless bolts, nylock buts and washers and a couple of self-tappers for attaching the cooler to the brackets you will make up. Raceworks ZF transmission adaptor (pack of 2) (RWF-922-ZF-08BK)– Aeroflow, Speedflow, Proflow all do these as well.(You need the ones for the ZF transmission, not the Ford 6R variant – outside diameter of the ZF fitting is 16.4mm) Aeroflow -8 AN to 3/8” barb right angle adaptors (x2) (AF413-08-06BLK) – again lots of equivalents in various brands ZF steel pan with drain plug (you can of course re-use your existing steel pan.I think the plastic pans are single use as the filter is integral) ZF pan gasket ZF filter ZF mechatronic sleeve 20L drum of Gulf Western Syn-TS (formerly SynTrans) If you want to have a thermo switch to kick the fan in: Derale thermostatic switch (13021) (gets plumbed inline to one of your new transmission lines, includes 3/8 barb adaptors) LED light (optional, but I like knowing when the fan has been triggered) Switch with an LED indicator if you want a manual override on the fan Scrivets for refitting bumper and shrouds afterwards Special tools Assuming you have all of the basic sockets, pliers, etc. the following will make your life easier: Decent wire crimpers and strippers Hose cutting pliers (these are cheap and do a much better job than stuffing around with pliers or a knife) A pump for filling the transmission – the type that fits a 20L drum works perfectly. OBD2 Bluetooth tool and Torque app to read transmission temperature when getting the level right. Part one – physical cooler and fan installation I installed the cooler in the space in front of the driver’s side front wheel, behind the horns. Place the car on ramps or stands (don’t tip it off and destroy your bumper like I did – goodbye savings from doing this job myself, but hello pristine new bar with no existing scuffs) Remove the front bar – lots of info out there on how to do this.But briefly: -Remove tray from underneath front bumper -Remove scrivets from intake, radiator cover, etc. and remove intake snorkel and grille -Remove scrivets inside both front wheel arches that connect to the bumper so that you can access bumper bolts (you can leave the lower wind defector section of the guard liner in place and these will just stay with the front bar when you remove it Remove two bolts (10mm) holding bumper in place behind grille Remove 2x bolts (10mm) each side at top corner of bumper (behind guard liners) Carefully pull each corner outwards from the bumper mounts and then pull bumper forward and remove from car.Have a sheet or something ready to carefully place it on, unless like me you had already murdered the bar and are fitting a new one. Assemble your cooler/fan assembly depending on the kit/instructions you have.I also attached the relay to the fan at this point You need to make up brackets to mount the cooler securely, but still have some flex.You don’t want to crack a cooler!I used the bolt under the bumper mounting bracket as my main bracket, and a right angle bracket to the chassis to stabilise it as per the picture. I made my main bracket by: -Drill some holes in the aluminium bar to suit the mounting holes on your cooler. -Use a vice and a shifter to put a 90 degree twist in the bar -Bolt the cooler/fan assembly to the aluminium bar -Measure the length the bar needs to be by holding it (with cooler attached) up next to the car, then cut the bar with an angle grinder or hack saw.Round off the top corner to make it sit nicely under the bumper mount and give you some rotation for adjustment.Make sure you allow for the cooler to clear the bumper when installed. Pics of main bracket: I made my secondary bracket by: -Bolting the cooler in place using the main bracket -Measuring the approx. size I needed for the secondary bracket -Cut and bend aluminium bar to suit. -Drill a hole in each end of the bracket -Bolt the bracket to the cooler, position the whole setup how you want it and use a centre punch to mark the chassis -Unbolt the main bracket and remove the whole assembly and then drill a hole (where you centre-punched) to suit your self-tapping screw -Re-install and add your self-tapping screw. Pics of secondary bracket: Note I had to fiddle around with the orientation of the horns a bit as they were hitting the fan shroud. Now is a good time to test fit your bumper and make any adjustments to your brackets if needed This is the whole mounting setup off the car: And installed in the car: Now route your new cooler lines: -Connect to your cooler, remembering to thread a hose clamp on to each hose first, then tighten down securely -I routed my hoses along the front K-frame cross-member (just cable-tied to the wiring loom running there – I will go back later and install p-clamps properly) making sure you are clear of the accessories belt and pulleys. If between the cooler and the K-frame your line is rubbing on any panels, protect by cutting open a small piece of hose and sticking/gluing to the panel to prevent gradual damage to your line that might cause an eventual leak, or using a grommet in the same way I have: (I’m planning to go back and check this later to make sure it all stayed in place OK) -Then go along the chassis rail under the inlet manifold towards the transmission -Cut one hose near your transmission and add in your thermo switch with hose clamps, then a new piece of hose long enough to reach the cooler ports on the transmission Thermo switch plumbed in (with wiring which I’ll cover next): -The other hose can just continue to the same location, but doesn’t need anything mounted inline. Secure the hose up out of the way and tape the hose ends if you aren’t finishing the job here – your car is still driveable but you have done the hard bit! Part two – wiring I won’t go into full detail here, as everyone likes to do this differently.But basically what I did was: Used the add-a-circuit in the fuse box to add a new circuit off an existing circuit that powers on with accessories.From there I split into two circuits: -One wire headed off to a switch (if your switch has an indicator light you can ground back to the grounding point behind the fuse box) to be used for the manual override.I mounted my switch in the little pop-out panel in the steering column that is used for the adjustable pedals option.From the switch, head the wire through the firewall. -One wire headed to an LED (I mounted mine with my aftermarket gauges) and then on through the firewall.This wire will be for the thermo switch and the LED will tell you when the thermos switch has kicked in. My wiring was a bit more complex than that, as I did it as part of a larger boost, wideband and oil pressure gauge install.I pinned up a Deutsch connector just inside the firewall to take all of this wiring neatly through the firewall. The rubber grommet behind the carpet in the passenger footwell is a great place to take the wiring through.It is away from the exhaust and conveniently pops out near your transmission.Just cut or drill a small hole in the rubber plug to feed your wiring through.A touch of Innox spray or similar will help feed the wires through (especially if you are feeding a rubber hose through for a boost gauge). Run your thermo switch wire to the thermo switch (you will eventually plumb this into your transmission line) and then from the thermo switch it can be soldered or crimped to your wire coming from your manual switch.You now have two switches (manual and thermos) wired in parallel and can run a single wire through to your fan location (just run the wire along the transmission lines you have added).Crimp on a spade connector and connect to the trigger terminal on your relay (or your kit may have a relay connector that you need to join to). Here’s my relay mounted on the cooler: Run power and ground from your battery to your relay (include an inline fuse on the power), ground from battery to your fan (can share with the relay’s ground) and power from your relay to your fan. At this point, it is not a bad idea to get out a multimeter or test light and confirm everything is working eg your LED, your manual switch, etc. I’ll draw up a basic wiring diagram of all this and add soon. Part 3 – hooking up the cooler and de-commissioning the old heat exchanger The existing cooler lines are held in place on the transmission by a bracket with a 10mm bolt.Remove this and the lines just pull straight out of the transmission.Have a drain pan ready for whatever spills out.Congratulations, you are now officially milkshake-proof! On the heat exchanger end of the lines, the fittings are push lock.You need to push them further on to the ports on the heat exchanger, squeeze the tabs on the side in, and pull off.A set of multi-grips does this nicely.If you get stuck there is nothing wrong with being rough or cutting them – it is all going in the bin anyway. First line removed from heat exchanger: You can just leave the coolant lines as is, attached to the heat exchanger, if you don’t want to lose a bunch of coolant right now.Come back later with a 1/2" male-to-male barbed fitting to connect the two coolant hoses together.I left my heat exchanger coolant lines in place as my coolant is brand new – next time I have a need to open up the cooling system I’ll sort this out and have the fitting ready to go. There are three bolts holding the heat exchanger to the engine block (you can see the lower one in the pic above).If you have disconnected your coolant lines, remove the bolts and remove the heat exchanger.DON’T sell it on Gumtree – put it in the bin where it belongs! If you are leaving you coolant lines intact for now, still remove these bolts so you can tip the heat exchanger and drain the transmission fluid out of the bottom of the heat exchanger.You don’t want this coming out the ports and painting the underneath of your car every time you turn right for the next couple of weeks.Once you have tipped out as much fluid as you can, replace the bolts. Now connect your transmission to the new lines you ran earlier. -Assemble each ZF adaptor to the -8 to barbed right angle adaptor (tighten with two spanners to ensure no leaks) -Thread a clamp onto each line -Fit the hose to each barbed fitting and tighten the clamps -Push each line into the transmission ports.The lower port it the outlet from the transmission, so this should be the line with the thermos switch installed. -Re-fit the bracket and 10mm bolt you removed when uninstalling the factory lines New fittings and lines installed into box, with bracket re-attached: -Do any tidy up of lines with cable ties or P-clamps to keep everything tidy and safe from getting hit or caught under the car Part 4 – service the transmission- flush, filter, mechatronic sleeve, gasket Now that you have a new cooler with new lines, you are going to need to at least top up your fluid due to the longer lines and increased cooler capacity.Makes sense to do a full service then and replace all of the consumable stuff at once.Your box will last longer if you do this – I think the only reason you wouldn’t do this is if you had a very recent flush on your transmission) I went with: -New fluid – 20L drum so I could do a full flush -New filter, of course -New steel pan with a drain plug and new gasket – not essential (as I already had a steel pan) but well worth it - not just for this job but if you are planning to service the trans periodically.Once you remove the existing pan once you will understand why. -New mechatronic sleeve – the o-rings on these are prone to leaking and you need to remove the pan to replace the sleeve, so do it now. First step is to remove the fill plug on the driver’s side of the transmission, towards the back.Mine was a T50 although it sounds like some might be 8mm internal hex (Allen).Mine was ridiculously tight (ended up with a steel pipe over the handle of a breaker bar sticking out the front of the car) so make sure you can loosen this before you go dumping your transmission oil. Prepare the area by putting down a tarp and some cardboard and even have a couple of old towels on hand.It can get messy! Remove the bolts from the pan and lower the pan, tipping the fluid into a drain pan.I removed a bunch of bolts and left the corners in place, then gradually undid these and then removed the front ones so I could tip as much fluid out the front as possible.Even so, there will still be quite a bit in there when you remove the last of the bolts. (Note I think the plastic pans have an integrated filter, so you might need a whole new pan assembly anyway – I haven’t done this on any other cars so I don’t know for sure.) Once the pan is out of the way you will see the filter on the bottom of the transmission.Pull this out too.You might find the seal on the filter gets left behind – remove this from the transmission too using a small screwdriver or a pick, being careful not to scratch the metal surface. The orange seal left behind that needs removing: Use a blade to scrape any left over gasket off the bottom of the transmission. Now for the mechatronic sleeve: -The wiring connector is at the back of the transmission on the driver’s side.Push the locking tab up to release the wiring connector and pull it out of the way. Connector removed: -The sleeve the connector fitted into is what you are replacing.This is locked into place by the white locking mechanism INSIDE the transmission.I found this out on a YouTube video for a BMW ZF installation – if you didn’t know about the lock and just forced the sleeve, you could end up having a very bad day. Locking tab to pull downwards: -As you have already removed the pan, pull this lock downwards to release the sleeve -The sleeve slides out – it doesn’t unscrew.Grab it with multi-grips if it is stubborn and gently wriggle backwards. -Lubricate the o-rings on your new sleeve with Innox spray or a bit of fresh trans fluid to make the sleeve easier to fit. -Push the sleeve into place by hand as far as it will go.You can see that there is a cut-out on the sleeve which dictates the orientation – this points downward. -Close the locking mechanism by pushing upwards.You may need to apply some pressure to the sleeve (pushing it towards the front of the vehicle) while simultaneously closing the lock.You can do this with a pry bar with a big flat blade, or use a breaker bar against a small block of wood (slide the bar in above the trans cross-member). Applying pry bar to sleeve: -Refit the wiring connector and pull the locking tab back down.Again, tabs and cut-outs mean the connector can only go in a certain way.Be gentle so you don’t wreck anything. You can now install the new filter, gasket and pan (NOTE – I did a new gasket and filter here and then new again for the final fill.You could just re-use the old stuff here and then go new for the final fill.) -Push the filter into place – push firmly so that it goes all the way home New filter installed: -Place the gasket over the pan, lift the pan into position and add bolts to each corner by hand. -Add all remaining bolts by hand, making sure each bolt goes through the gasket and the gasket remains neatly in place without being folder or wrinkled. -For tightening, you want to make sure you don’t warp the pan as it may leak.I think there is a recommended order, but if you alternate side to side and work your way from the middle to the ends, and just tighten a bit at a time before repeating the process, you should be fine. -The bolts need to be tight enough to prevent leaking but certainly not over-tightened.Stripping the threads in your transmission would also be a bad day. You are now ready to fill your transmission and start flushing. -Double check that your drain plug is in place, your pan is securely fitted and your new transmission lines well-secured. -Remove the fill plug on the side which you loosened at the start of this part.Use a pump, and fill until fluid start to run out of the fill hole.(I didn’t worry about ensuring the car was completely level front-to-back at this point – you are only flushing at this stage.) -Loosely replace the fill plug -Start the engine, lift the revs to about 1200 RPM for a few seconds, then switch off.This should pump oil through your transmission and fill up your new cooler and lines. -Remove the fill plug and top up your transmission to the fill hole again – it may take quite a bit.Replace the fill plug. -Start the engine and with your foot on the brake, place the car into reverse, neutral, drive, etc. pausing for a few seconds in each.Do this cycle a couple of times. -In a perfect world (I.e. one with a hoist) you’d run the car up to speed and let the convertor lock, etc.Safety first though and I’m not doing that on axle stands thanks very much. Personally I don’t think it is a major problem to be near enough is good enough here. -Undo your drain and fill plugs, draining the fluid.Due to the amount of fluid held in the convertor, it will now be around a 50/50 mix of old and new fluid. -Repeat the fill, start, cycle through the gears, drain process another couple of times until the fluid you are draining looks like nice, fresh fluid – this indicates you have gotten rid of the vast majority of the old stuff. -I actually stopped here after two refills due to time and drove the car for a week before doing the third and then final dump and fill.This certainly meant all of the fluid in the convertor etc was mixed through! You can now undertake the final fill, which needs to be a bit more specific: -Ensure the transmission is level.I used a spirit level on the pan to confirm.My front wheels were on ramps, so I just jacked under the K-frame a touch to bring the trans to level – extending the suspension slightly while still having the wheels on the ramps (I have a bit of a slope on the driveway) -You need to check the level with the transmission at or very close to 35 degrees C.A heat gun or using the Torque app with a OBDII tool will do this.My Max Ellery manual says ‘transmission case should feel warm to the touch but not fully warmed up’ – pretty approximate but might do if you have no other option! (In the Torque app go to Settings, Manage custom PIDs, menu, Add a Predefined set, Ford.This will add a group of Ford-specific PIDs.You can now add a display using the [FORD] Transmission Fluid Temp option.There are several there, but when adding a display pick [FORD] Transmission Fluid Temp Method 2 for current temp in Celsius.) -With the car running and the fluid at 35 degrees, let the engine run and pump fluid in until fluid dribbles out the fill hole.Re-fit the fill plug. At this point you are done – clean around the drain, fill hole, etc., check everything for leaks and tighten as necessary.Refit your bumper, etc.Lower to the ground and go for a test drive.Go and get an actual chocolate milkshake rather than one made in your overflow bottle. After a week or so, get under the car again and check your connections for leaks. My final setup looks like this: From underneath to give you an idea of fitment inside bar:
    8 points
  16. Couple of pics in the sun, after paint sealant applied.
    8 points
  17. So yerp pulled the 6r80 down today. Nothing looks too rooted in it, not that I'm a seasoned trans builder or anything. All of the steels are in good condition and all of the shafts/gears etc look and feel alright too. I'll get to measuring later in the week to confirm stuff. The car that the trans came out of had a torque converter failure and had put some metal into the trans which is why I only paid $50 for it. I pulled the trans pump apart to have a look, as that will be where the metal starts it's journey into the trans. Sure enough the small inner gear has some damage and the pump cover has some damage too. It's not so farked that it wouldn't work at all but I'd rather do things more proplyer so will address it. I reckon I'll swap out the stator shaft from the 6r80 into one of the zf pumps and use that, otherwise I can get a 6r80 pump for about $500, or there might be something else I can do with parts/gear swapping etc. The bushes in it need replacing so I'll go for a bronze bush kit, along with a couple of other bits to recon the zf valve body, replace needle roller bearings as one had fallen apart, and whatever else needs replacing apart from seals, as they will all get done anyway. So yeh that's about it really. Will drop off the input shaft and converter on Wednesday and see how we go from there. I was thinking about cryo treating the output shaft too just for more peace of mind. I'm leaning toward keeping the stock converter now as it has a better lockup than a single disc gm converter but I'll see what the trans guy reckons, as it might not be up to the power level I'm going to throw at it. Haha one part of me wants to just buy a built trans but I'll have a crack at it myself first and if I fark it up, I'll reevaluate then.
    8 points
  18. Here's the graph. I had to run it in 3rd to get a number as I was hitting a speed limiter in 4th and was too tardled to work out how to remove it. I disabled it in the vid block, changed it in the tune as well and zeroed out the ETC cut. Still didn't work but oh well. Also don't have the boost control dialled in so it's a bit wavy. Today was a fuel/sd map tuning day
    8 points
  19. ok here we go, finally got a before and after of the new kitchen all done.
    8 points
  20. For context, This forum is not only about cars for some of us. Some members have had relationships for over a decade now and are quite good friends. There have been threads about babies and family, homes being built, what beers people drink, what people are cooking for dinner... and so on. One of the joys about it is unlike social media, you can pick and choose what you want to see and, myself personally, as a relatively new builder embarking on my largest project to date, I like to soundboard off of some of the guys who’ve been there done that and it helps with additional considerations. If this forum were about money I’d have bought a Ferrari and posted about it, but it’s nothing to do with who’s more wealthy or flaunting their possessions (allowing for the jokes about ArronM and his gold toilets). Unlike social media, it doesn’t just pop up on your time line and it’s not in your face, if you choose to click on a topic and read it, then that’s a choice you’ve made to view. If that somehow makes you disgruntled and is interpreted as a flash of wealth instead of being entertained by the content then that’s on you. Aussie culture at it again, making everything a tall poppy syndrome argument. Most of us here, as far as I am aware (the members I’ve known for ten plus years) weren’t born with a silver spoon in their mouth and have worked for everything they have, including myself. I am extremely proud of what I’ve accomplished, not because of a monetary value, but because I’m also covered in gyprock dust and getting into a project I’ve designed and managed from its inception, and I am in no way shape or form ashamed to say I enjoy posting it here to share with people I have built relationships with over a long period of time. In actuality some of this things I enjoy most about the “off topic” conversations are low monetary projects and are things people have hand crafted or created which shows their creativity and abilities, which I could only ever dream of having. To me it’s no different to watching someone post about a vehicle build, it’s not about the money, it’s about what they’ve managed to achieve and accomplish, if we’re going to “poo poo” everyone who does things just because it costs money, then just sh*t can the whole internet including people’s car build threads, because anyone who’s ever built a car from the ground up knows none of that is free!
    8 points
  21. Got to the dyno today and it went pretty much as I expected. The exhaust showed to be a huge restriction but we all knew that anyway. The first run right off the bat showed 367awkw on 16psi and after a bit of fiddling it went 427awkw at 21psi. The wgdc was at 85% and briefly flicked to 100% a couple of times so didn't bother pushing it further. So yerp, zorst is needed and possibly a stiffer actuator but overall I'm pretty happy for now. Haha it's quite quick at 21psi but I reckon it'll get turned down until I do the zorst. Happy days
    8 points
  22. Got some time on the dyno yesterday. Had a few minor issues that held us up a bit, but managed to get most of the 98 ron tune sorted. We pulled up tuning early last night, as we ran out of time and fuel. We managed 733 rwhp (546 kw) @ 24 psi, on 98 ron fuel. We still have more left in it as it was still loving having timing added. It just wants to keep going, with no signs of falling off, even at the 7,800 rpm limiter. Given what we have learnt so far, especially in relation to cam timing, I cannot begin to understand how some of the cars out there are making the power that they are. we used a FG cam map as a baseline, as we were led to believe that they are the best. However, we found that the factory cams tables, effectively choke the crap out of the engine. We've only just started playing in this area and realised an additional 70 hp. We only have a few hours on the dyno today, as both the tuner and I have to leave fore work. So, we're going to put some E85 in it and see what it makes. Fingers crossed for no oil on the floor.... I do have some dyno graph pics and I shall endeavour to get some uploaded tonight.
    8 points
  23. Finally did it ! Bought a Brand new Tuff Lift 4 poster 3.6T with the optional 1.7 T jacking beam, dolly wheels, extended low vehicle ramps, drip trays and jacking tray and fully Australian certified with work safe cert delivered and installed on the 21st ! nailed a end of month bargain at $5,000 flat for nearly $6,000 worth
    8 points
  24. Had a pretty productive day. @Camo86T is a bloody legend. Got the new turbo front cover and hot side pipe welded up with plazmaclamp flanges. Got home, pulled the old turbo out, the manifold, dump and all the studs. Made a mess getting the heat wrap off which pretty much crumbled. New exhaust gaskets and studs, new turbo gasket and studs, fitted the new dump studs. Fitted a new turbosmart actuator, 14 Psi spring, set the preload and bolted it up. Will bolt the dump in tomorrow and top the coolant up. Will give it a week or so before wrapping the manifold again to make sure the nuts are tight after a few heat cycles.
    8 points
  25. A teaser, of recent progress. It's 95% complete, I just have to install some micro switches for the hazard lights and the dimming switches for the dash/Icc illumination.. Then it will be permanently installed.
    8 points
  26. A week or so ago my little (19yo) brother was being a pain in the arse to middle brother. Now LB is always leaving his sh*t lying around, wallet, keys, shoes, whatever. An hour or so later MB sees LB's wallet out on a bench in the workshop and gives the licence photo a texta p3nis upgrade, bit of a giggle at the chance of a HWP officer looking at it next... Today LB did a first aid course, ID required, he hands over the licence to the trainer without looking at it.... 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
    8 points
  27. Wiped over my new all black bay [emoji16] The thing is a dust magnet!!!
    8 points
  28. Only just finished getting everything cleaned up, plugged in and setup around 9pm last night - was a pretty busy weekend! Could really do with another weekend now to recover from the weekend and to actually just sit down and enjoy the new system. With covers on: And with covers off:
    8 points
  29. Portuguese style grilled chicken from corner lunch shop at work - wayyyyyy better than any other fast food effort I've tried eg. nandos etc
    8 points
  30. Bird flew over head and shat in me coffee this morning. Füçk Missus pissed herself laughing. Cafe is licenced, went in and got a beer. Good solution I reckon.
    8 points
  31. Watching someone slide a turbo falcon correctly 5/7 Would Bang !
    8 points
  32. Aren't sure if the cat likes adminhamster or wants to put in a bid, but he's following the thread intently
    8 points
  33. Ima just leave this here ….. Pretty excited 😍
    7 points
  34. Been a while since anyone posted on here but I’m excited to break the silence with some good news... Got offered a fairly awesome job yesterday. I’m now a Senior Project Manager (construction sector in government). It’s a job I’ve been dreaming and working toward for a long time now and stoked to have worked hard enough that an engineering degree wasn’t required due to enough proven experience and results. Pretty excited to say the least and ready to take on the new challenge! 😝🥰
    7 points
  35. 7 points
  36. On Wednesday my wife was taken to hospital with some complications with our pregnancy, broken waters etc... She was not not due for another month! After 2 days of constant monitoring and testing (and not sleeping for either of us!) I was urgently called back to the hospital only an hour after leaving to finally get a couple of hours sleep at 3.30am Saturday morning, and upon arrival my wife was being taken to another unit in a terrible looking condition......... 3hrs later, I was holding a beautiful little baby girl! Both my wife and new daughter were quickly taken away to the nursery where my daughter was connected up to all these highly sophisticated machines as she had difficulty breathing. Today I was awoken by a call from my wife to inform me that when I visit this evening, that I will need to go to a different ward, as our little Princess is now improved enough to be monitored and only connected up with a drip!!!! Yay!! What a gift for Xmas.
    7 points
  37. Cool stuff someone else just bought that I'll be using:
    7 points
  38. there's a fair bit I would already do differently in future videos, but still I'm happy enough with it as is
    7 points
  39. Well Racewars was a world of fun!!! I had 2 400m passes making 215 and 216 kmh then I had 3 800m rolling passes. First was 260, 261 then 265. Unfortunately I only got 1 run on the 1000m due to the incident but I managed a 270. Horrible launch and bad gear changes so hopefully next year I can crack at least 275. But all in all I am stoked!!! Was an awesome weekend and can't wait for next year! Massive thanks to @IH8TOADS Unreal tuning and help! Missus got some awesome photos and a video of toads and my self racing on the 800m roll on.
    7 points
  40. Same cars making 500+ are probably running some better components Think. Better plenum Rapid systems intercooler Ba exhaust manifold Only twin 2.5" catback. Eflex is only e70 Each one of them would pick up what? 10kw?? Pretty close to 500. I did ask I should be closer to 500. He said at another 4-6 degrees of timing would get it there. Considering its at 10 at the moment. It's safe as houses. And for fitting me in, and only charging me a carton of piss. Can't complain too much.
    7 points
  41. Flywheel arrived. Drilled it to suit the atomic dowels. Slapping it in this arvo. Just as the rain starts, lovely.
    7 points
  42. The goodies arrived just in time for the long weekend, bloody ripper. All from Mal Wood Automotive. Option 5 Clutch QA1 SFI rated bell housing T56 Magnum New CSC, flywheel bolts, news clutch feed lines, 16mm master to suit the twin plate better than a factory spec 19mm master. Going by the el cheapo calipers I have the magnum input shaft is approx 4mm thicker than the tr6060 so that's a decent upgrade. The casing looks a heap better/thicker all around aswell. New bell housing is a bit slimmer than the factory part too, will make the solid mount install a bit easier.
    7 points
  43. Morning keif In other news I got engaged 2 weeks ago
    7 points
  44. No progress on the ute for the last while, until today anyway. Got my license back yesterday. Was lucky enough to be able to get Chris from Mobile Custom Fabrications to come over and sort out new cooler piping. Pretty happy with how it turned out. Left the silicone elbow on the little GTX as I plan on upgrading that later this year, no point wasting a plazmaclamp on it.
    7 points
  45. I just ordered one of these. I'll let the forum know how I go with it. Will still be a few months away before the new motors running.
    7 points
  46. While I’m at it, this is the new BBQ area I’ve almost finished..
    7 points
  47. Small bit of scotch for Anzac Day BBQ. Will let the boys cut off and cook their own steaks.
    7 points
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