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It's been a long couple of days, didn't get as far as I would of hoped but we are well underway! I didn't get a chance to take pictures of every step but I have a few.. I picked up the motor on Thursday or Friday, done all the usual checks, gave everything a final wash and started assembly.. What a difference the line bore made, it wasn't "hard" to spin before, but this just glides now, so it probably even picked up a few hp haha.. I used a Stretch gauge to torque the big ends The windage tray was almost pointless with the new girdle as it was about 0.7" away from the crank... So as screw driver and some improvisation goes a long way, bringing it closer to the crank, leaving about 0.15-0.2" away from the highest/lowest spots which is the big end bolts.. Dad touched up a few areas on the oil pump to help improve flow, and shimmed up the regulator spring about 0.1" Now, obviously with the thicker girdle, the pickup is sitting closer to the sump.. Some measurements and moulding clay came up with the closest it could be was 0.25", we currently had 0.15"... So I cut down the bracket and re-welded it in its position about 0.3" from the sump.. The head went together somewhere in between.. All the spring seat heights were measured and came up with no need for shims, and I re-checked the spring tensions all coming up within a couple of lb of each other at closed and full lift... The crow Race spring and retainer kit which was previously on it has known issues of the rocker touching the retainer, so some slight modification of the rockers was needed.. Isn't that a sexy look! Everything was going very smoothly from all the previous measurements and checks... Until... We overlooked the timing cover, obviously with alot of meat coming off the deck and the head it's all sitting lower and the timing cover stays where it was It was about 0.05" too high, the rocket cover gasket can't really take that up, and while we've done everything else properly I wasn't gonna skimp out on this.. I managed to get in contact with a local guy that has a CNC Mill in his garage haha... So he was able to machine it for me on Sunday... It was a long process because his machine wasn't tall enough to stand the cover up, we had to lay it down and run a fly cutter along it a couple of times... But it came up with a great finish and at the right height... Some final internal checks, and the sump and timing cover went on, then started adding pieces as I went I may be modest, but she looks farking angry!! I'll be trying to get it in tonight/tomorrow, get it started then I've taken some time off work, so I will have a good few days to get it run in, check everything then re-check to make it to Powerplay on Sunday!! Thanks guys

By now I figure it was about time for a retune so I took the car up to Sydney to see Joe and the boys at CMS and they ran it up with a base run only making 263rwkw (with about 20 degree higher ambient temps so should have made more not less) and running 11 afr’s, far from impressed as you could imagine. Joe had a bit of a play with the tune and managed to pick up 15rwkw and 150nm of torque with just the tune. Car was much better to drive and had all the everyday characteristics of a good cold start and nice idle that I wanted from the start. Unfortunately for me, still no 300rwkw. Joe put it down to the exhaust flowing too will and actuator just not doing its job holding boost. So back to the drawing board to save some $$ and work out where to take the car. A few months passed before I decided to get some more work done and try crack that elusive 300rwkw mark. After a bit of research I decided on a gtx3576 as this would make the 350rwkw on 98 that I wanted and avoid me having to do a gearbox build in the near future. I found one with 3000kms, ported rear and actuator for $1200 so bought it but was well and truly scammed but luckily enough paypal refunded me. Once I got the money back I ended up buying a billet wheeled gt3576 from xr6turbo developments for about $1250 and also one of their external gate and screamer setups for $900. I had a crack at this myself and it took about 2.5hrs on my own to remove, except I had to take the turbo and manifold in to get the 4 nuts taken off as I didn’t have the tools to get them off without making a mess. Getting everything back together took me about a day because there was a lot of messing around trying to get the gate to line up properly and then plumb everything up correctly. She was finally back together, so gave her a service and away she went to CMS for a retune. New tune managed 349rwkw on 16-17psi and holding it all the way to red line. Initially I expected the kw increase to feel like more, but after driving it for a week or so it’s definitely a step up. I previously use to launch hard in 1st, then once it spun at the top of 1st change. Now 1st is pretty useless unless you want to start a powerskid and have to start in 2nd or shift to 2nd basically straight away. Done a few limiter taps trying to learn the right time to shift. Don’t have any time to go to the drags but will get there eventually and hopefully go somewhere around 11.5-11.7. For now I’m happy just handing out chops on Friday nights At the moment the plans for the future are full exhaust, valve springs, tailshaft and retune on 98 and also an e85 tune, but having just finished 5.5 years of uni I’m going on a well deserved 3 month holiday to Europe and then plan to buy a house as soon as I can so the car will be on hold for any major mods. Thanks for reading

Come on boys, lift your game please..... https://youtu.be/_qzOz_C8QRo https://youtu.be/0GT1tCFOgXM

This just ran a 9.2 @ 149mph weekend just gone 4speed auto

Jet likes to dangle the carrot rather than just spoon feed the answers. Its a good way of teaching people.... ...and he just enjoys being a difficult know it all karnt sometimes [emoji6]

And they say the mining boom is over!

^this, and don't forget the nitrous, don't ever forget the nitrous.

Been on here for a while and now that the utes making decent power I figured I'd throw up a thread. So go back a few years and I picked up the ute. 2010 XR50T auto in Silhouette all stock with the XR50 extras. Stayed like that for a few months until I sold my BF RTV. Then I got stuck into modding it. Fitted a Process West stage 3 intercooler kit (with turbo side airbox and battery relocation), Process West twin DW300 surge tank and fitting kit, Nizpro 4" exhaust, Nizpro over boost valve, Turbo smart BOV, PWR ZF heat exchanger and a set of Five O motorsports 1000cc injectors. The wastegate was ported and a bigger flapper fitted and I got it back from CMS with 336RWKW on Eflex. Towards the end of last year the standard turbo started to go so I took it back to CMS to have a GTX3582 fitted. Also had an MSCN turbo oil line, spool billet oil pump gears and a gibson 1000hp tail shaft fitted while it was there. Had fuel surge issues so the intank pump was upgraded and It made around 430RWKW on Eflex on a hot arvo. A few months after that it started getting fuel surge again which turned out to be the DW300 pumps giving in. Moved to twin Walbro 460s an FPR2000, Process West billet fuel rail and a set of KPM 1500cc injectors. Before it went into CMS I had some -12 fittings welded to a spare rocker cover and ran them to 2 catch cans. Made a bit over 400RWKW on 98 and around 440 on Eflex. Tune wasn't pushed as the ZF isn't too happy.

This is going to be a bit of a read but for those who can’t be bothered here’s a simplified version: FG XR6T ZF CMS Tuned Hurricane m/s dump and 100 cell cat, rear muffler delete Rapid Cooler and turbo side ID 1000’s PW Surge with single 460 and FPR 1200 XR6Turbo Developments Billet Wheeled GT3576 Turbosmart 45mm external gate 349rwkw at 16-17psi on 98. So back in 2012 I was in the market for a BFII turbo when I came across a 2008 FG XR6T at pickles in Melbourne with 78,000kms for $20k so immediately got a friend to check it out and it was bought. First impression was incredible how quick it was compared to my BA NA First mod was to put my plastidipped 19” Advanti Fusions on and I liked it because the matte black was just starting to come on trend but this would be changed soon enough. First issue was a horrible knock in the rear end that could not be found. All the basic things like spare wheel and the like were checked and nothing came up. Had a couple shops check it out and firstly changed the control blade bushes to Nolathane. This did nothing for the knock but helped with axle tramp that I was getting. Next suggestions were shocks so I thought perfect opportunity to lower the car. Did some research and ended up with King SSSL fronts and SSSSL rear springs, Monroe GT Shocks, Superpro shortened bump stops, Superpro front upper control arm brackets with shims and rear upper inner control arm camber bushes. I think this all came in at about $1100 delivered. So went through the process and found that the upper inner bush on the left rear could not be accessed without dropping the cradle so thought might aswell get some superpro comfort diff bushes and get them installed while I was going. Bushes were $250 delivered and a local ford dealer installed them for $380. So got all that in but knock was still there. Also had trouble with the ‘camber brackets’ for the front with them not actually being able to correct any more camber than the factory brackets fully shimmed. In the mean time a member had a set of vertini magics come up for sale. 20x8.5+42 and 20x10+38 with 6 tyres all up and set me back $2000. Went to put them on the car and surely enough because I had corrected rear camber they fouled on the guards so went down the road and got the rear guards rolled and pumped ($120 for the pair). Now sitting pretty but that knock was still there. I finally got advice from luke/jesus/bionic (not sure if he’s still around) and he suggested upper outer control arm bushes. Got a set that included upper outer, lower outer and outer toe arm bushes for $90. With the help of my old man made up a contraption with threaded rods, some nuts and sockets and managed to swap all the bushes without taking the arms off the car and finally the knock was gone! I decided to give the car a bit of a note and deleted the rear muffler for straight pipe and twin tips. Not a bad sound considering the cost but quite loud (which I don’t mind being only young). $100 total to do this. Some time amongst all this got a cash job on a buff and polish. I washed the car, clayed it, then washed it again and prepped it to save some $$. For $100 it turned out alright. Before and after pics below. After Next on the list was performance. After a lot of research and trying to find the best and cheapest (have learnt my lesson about doing things cheaply now) way to achieve my goals of 300rwkw I ended up with the following list of parts: ID1000’s - $690 PW Surge and single 460 Pump - $1400ish Rapid V2 cooler kit and turbo side - $1700 Hurricane dump and generic 100cell cat - $800 installed 2nd hand x3 - $400 After waiting about 6 weeks and a lot of messages and calls I finally received the rapid cooler kit, everything else was good. I installed this myself only to find a heap of work was required and a heap of parts needed that weren’t supplied in the kit. Eventually got on, took it to the exhaust shop for dump and cat then to the tuners to install injectors and surge then tune the car. Before tune I also installed an external trans cooler ($250), flushed engine oil, coolant, diff oil and gearbox oil. First choice of tuner was Gentech in Canberra after a lot of deliberation on who to use. Had a heap of troubles with the car spluttering and stalling at idle. First it was a dead fuel pump that was replaced under warranty then it hung around. After a bit of research (because my tuner couldn’t figure it out) I suggested throwing a fuel pressure gauge on as I was on the factory reg and fuel pressure was up around 100psi and causing havoc. Spoke to Kev at PW and he sorted us out with a stage 1 fitting kit (FPR1200 fuel reg) at cost price because it was only recommended (not required) on their site. Got that hooked up and car running okay. Only ended up with 295rwkw at 14psi tapering to 10psi. Was far from happy I was expecting over 300rwkw and the car had average economy and stalled occasionally. After going back for a few touch ups (whereby the solution to stalling was upping the idle by 200rpm) I cut my losses and left the car as is. Getting bored with the car I decided to upgrade to some RDA slotted and dimpled rotors, remsa pads and new fluid, got that all for about $550 delivered from Race Brakes. I got all that on easier enough and the braking was marginally better but just a decent upgrade from the now 100,000kms old brakes. Next problem arose with the zf starting to flare and do all kinds of crap. Took it to trans shop to check fluid levels and the like and found out that the box was about 500ml low on oil and potentially causing the dramas. They topped it up and the box seemed good for a few months but started to flare again. Somewhere amongst all this I decided to put some gauges in the car. I ended up making my own fiberglass gauge pod out of the tissue box holder, bought some prosport oil pressure, oil temp and boost gauges as well as a sandwich plate to install them. I think all up I spent about $400 and installed them myself. Again lost track of what order things happened but the wheels copped a coat of purple plastidip and glossifier to try something a bit different. I think it came out pretty good. Come summernats time I thought I would invest in some sound system gear. Quite a mix and match of brands and parts but basically changed the whole lot and rewired everything from scratch. This never quite worked that well and ended up getting a car audio shop to have a fiddle and they got it working well until the next time the car hit the dyno and something tripped the line converter and amp’s and basically destroyed everything. Just not worrying about that anymore at the moment because can’t be bother spending any more on that aspect of the car. It was around about this time that I also got my hand on some matte orange vinyl wrap and gave the car a facelift. The rims went back to normal and the plastidip went on with the help of my little brother. Total cost was $200 and 20 man hours between 2 people. Was pretty happy with the result but quite lazy with some bits and would do it differently if I did it again.

Piks eff ? Yeh mick the BRZ is stacked with a 4.0 now lol

Goleby's have a direct fit E85 rated filter that has a removable cleanable core. Looks like a good bit of gear and was $100 delivered.

KPM one is north of 200 dorrah. Pretty sure its a 19mm and a 14mm spanner from memory. When on E85 and using the stock lines I used the Cooper filter and held up for 10k no worries(glue not sh*tting itself). Cant go wrong with a genuine one though Id imagine

I know how you feel about that search thing. Some good info here. http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/80699-Aftermarket-Fuel-Filters%2E%2E%2Ewhat-I-Did%21

Turbowerx Barra powered VL Calais 33 ETA - 7.63 @ 179mph Errol Quartermaine Twin Turbo Barra BA Super Stock BA D/D Gas - 7.676 Dion Amato De-stroked Barra Fg Ute - 7.78 @ 180mph

^^^^ DISLIKE!!!! Also....my god do I have a better appreciation for this thread....now that I viewed it "incognito mode" on the work PC

Top build mate

Called nizpro

Thanks, appreciate the reply.

Mhmm.....sassages

or if you have excellent information retention

It's quite simple when it comes to camshafts and a N/A application ...... Whatever u gain up top u loose down low and vice versa The N/A can only do so much with the limitations of 98 fuel and cylinder capacity Head work,cams,intake,exhaust and race fuel or n2o is the most you can do before u need FI Most people know dazzler with his pink BA and the bulk load of cash he's thrown at it and barely cracked 200rwkw N/A but good on him for exploring every possible avenue It is what it is fellas !

He does the same to me But that's how u learn Your not learning anything If people just give u the answers

^

I would think a set of stock turbo injectors would suffice if an na was ever out of injector. There is no power to be had with cams on a vct engines unless it is pushing some serious power or you want to rev it harder for some reason. Jet that bf xr6 looks fkn mint, good power for a bf as well. OP an fg is going to push 200rwkw with similar mods to that bf. Bloody good for a p plater car. Couldn't squeeze that out of my VN SS back in the day.

And I could go put a TBRE built motor in my mums n/a xr6 incase she ever decides to take it past 4k rpm going to the shops, but it would seem a bit pointless?

Very nice work. The holder thingies for the oil line - where did you get those?

Thanks to bomber pointing out the eBay add the other week I picked up a powerbond 20% under driven harmonic balancer kit. Also ordered some solid bushed engine mounts from "tuff mounts" and a billet tail shaft coupling from technico. I borrowed the falcon specific puller from a mate and installed the balancer, pulleys and mounts. Didn't have a power bar so had to pull out the starter motor and jam the flex plate to stop the crank from turning (major PITA, fark that top starter bolt). Anyway it revs a fair bit easier and feels a fair bit more responsive. The mounts are pretty harsh but I expected that seems like most NVH isn't transfered to the rear of the exhaust as I've used solid rubber hangers and clamped those to prevent sagging. Being a weekender its all good but will probably get the idle raised a bit to reduce it when stopped in drive. Still waiting on the billet coupling to arrive.

What about hi flow air flow meter?

Yes and they shouldn't have We had done some work on a mates BF XR6 all we did was a custom stock ecu re calibration and picked up 20rwkw on BP98 fuel This had pacemaker 4490's 100cell cat , K&N panel filter , hi flowed stock air box and we back to backed a 2.5 redback exhaust against a 2.5 xforce cat back Redback won bugger all in it but it was on top and cheapest cat back on the market Rolled up 154rwkw then 174rwkw after alot of calibrating Go get em dude everyone has a turbo and if you're a P plater it's your only decent option

I had a full weekend fixing all my mates buckets of sh*te 1- service on a yarris 2- service on a triton 3- service on a vy ss Replace battery terminals And new starter motor 4- service the missus and her Car [emoji13] Expensive Daewoo Cruze 5- remove gas converter off an AU falcon Make custom intake Change oil and filter Wiper arms replace New radiator Managed to make some cash and get some favours up my sleeve from three of Tradey mates Hectic weekend and here is a pic of my custom intake

Fitted a powerbond 20% underdriven harmonic balancer and a set of tuff mount solid bushes engine mounts. Is racecar now

Picked up a playseat and a Thrustmaster TH8A shifter which is miles ahead of the G27 shifter - all metal and with adjustable resistance, actually feels like a proper gearbox rather than being able to shift with your pinky of the G27 one. Game is awesome - if anyone else has it add me on steam "TommyTwoHanks" and we'll have a game.

Im bradley and if she is hot and the wife is cool with it ill nailer. Lol

Now this would pi55 anyone off.

na man topping it up. Took 300mls in 8 weeks or so. Going to have a chat with brett and get some sh*t done to the car. Farking ford sh*t and abusive driving do not go well together. Lol

Finally got some cash together for some surgery to the G6ET. Mods to follow: Eaton TrueTrac 9" LSD 60Lbs Injectors High flow CAT and Dump Pipe Stage 2 Intercooler and Piping SCT Flash Tuner K&N Panel Filter Leaving stock exhaust and airbox as to make it look and sound as stock as possible. Getting it tuned down at Autotech. Will post the results in the next couple of weeks.

At all cost engine and box in one if possible. Done it dozens of times but never on an BA-FG. I have a winder bar on the hoist that allows me to get the tilt on the engine and box and also to level it. You can buy cheap chinese ones and I did try one but they are flimsy and would not recommend them. I built my own. But then you got to set it up on the hoist so that on full tilt you have enough verticle chain so the front top of the engine does not foul the arm on the hoist. (does that make sense) and that you dont have too much chain that you cant get the engine high enough over the front of the car. Try to set it up first with the chains where they should be than just hope for the best. When the engine is tilted I usually set it up so I need to lift the end of the box into the engine bay a little. Then you decided how much you got to lift the rear and sometimes even the front. I guess a pit would help.

KMA MoFo's Because I'm NOT sure about what's happening with the tune 'after' 4500 - 5000 rpm, I haven't given it full throttle (to red line) in all gears yet but up to 5000 grand it pulls like TWO freight trains...seriously, this little turbo is gunna cost me twice as much in tryes..........lol 100kph - gave it a stab and it lost A LOT of traction ----- and a bit of poo came out. I'll leave it till the end of next week and ring and have a chat to Brett himself (instead of Chris - the guy who tuned it) about the few concerns but having a good look at all of the tuning stuff that I screen shot, and getting some good advice from the knob boi, I won't ever be flashing the 415 tune in but even with the 380 tune (even if it's not 100% yet) I am absolutely loving it. Cold start is perfect - as long as I don't give it a 'quick' blip on the throttle for the first 2 or 3 minutes - and it is very smooth Oh and another thing, now that the injectors have been fixed, I have already noticed that I'm using a bit less fuel driving down the main road here so that's a huge plus. Drags at AIR this weekend but not gunna even think about running it until I'm ( ) totally happy with and confident in the tune. ......................... What the hell is emoji16 Wilko? laptop doesn't read it

Forged pistons in the f6 motor

Just get the sticker

I do 500kms a week. Tu tu tu tu tu all day long

PT... Spool 76.. legs of 82..... Cant be simpler...

Yeah my OEM pads in the brembos with the T3s are dusty as all f*ck. Makes me wonder why I bought nice rims coz I can't keep 'm clean