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First Mods Thread!


NVT

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  • Formerly EGOBFXR6
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 1m 24d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, WA

Hey Everyone,

Since many of the new folk around here all seem to ask, "Where Do I start?" I thought that maybe we could develop a Mods thread to help them all out...

Firstly, BA's and BF's are very Different. You have to realise this when you mod your T, as some cars cannot handle as much as others without costing you big dollars.

BA I - 4/5spd boxes are not very strong and the car has weak internals (Rubbery Valve springs etc...)

BA II - Has the 6 spd manual which can hold lots more power with plate and clutch upgrades. 4 spd auto still hit and miss...

BF I - ZF Auto - great box seen up to about 400rwkw I believe (Dean :dummyspit:) And has 6 spd Manual. Internal still not that flash

BF II - Same Gearboxes but with a Typhoon Bottom end. Better Springs, Conrods, etc... (After 06/06 Build Date)

FG - I am unsure exactly of how the FG's stack up, But I believe the stock turbo is limited to about 300rwkw, which some have acheived already.

Now to the mods;

Cold air Intake - Best bet here is to get the F6 Typhoon second snorkel in the BA/BF range, and to go for the XR8 additional snorkle in the FG range. Both Cheap upgrades, with the BA/BF CAI costing about $80 and giving up to 11rwkw.

Panel filters and the like will only give very small, if any, gains in power. PODs off the turbo are a different matter though.

Exhaust - Getting the car to breathe better will open up lots more power. The stock system is quite restictive. If you don't want to go for a new full system, get a high-flow cat. This wll give greater power potential and allow the car to breathe.

Also some members remove the centre muffler for a louder note. NB This will not give an increase in power (Marginal at best) Should be about $400

Custom Flash tune and Flash box. This is where you will get your power. Do all the mods you need to first, as everytime something changes, you have to get a retune. Should be about $1,500 for the box and a tune.

This will cost you $2,000 and should give about 240rwkw. The injectors will be the limiting factor here.

If you feel like going further;

BA I and I, possibly BF I you will require new valve springs. A great upgrade that will tighten everything up. Costs about $900 for supply and fitting, but is a must in the BA's.

Bigger injectors - 60lb Siemens Dekkas cost about $600 to have installed.

Fuel Pump - $400 to keep up with the bigger injectors

You'd probably be wanting a decent intercooler about now as well. Rap1d/PW and out site sponsors do some great kits starting at about $1,000 Includes bigger piping, better IC etc. A great upgrade.

You may also want a transmission oil cooler to prolong the life of your Gearbox. It is strongly advised to have one for your 4 spd auto. $200

JUST to CLARIFY! The 4 speed box has been known to die at 180rwkw (Stock) but has also held over 300rwkw consistently. As stated earlier, they are very hit and miss, and if you plan on getting big power, you will more than likley be up for a rebuild/replacement.

You probably want to run full premium fluids through the car as well with this sort of power.

Exhaust will limit you here, so either a bigger dump, or just go with a full new system ($2,000 approx)

Conservatively, this should give in the area of 320rwkw - 360rwkw I believe. That's another $4,200 on top (Approx $6,200) In a phoon, you may be way higher, or way lower in a BA. Depends on your tuner/The tune and the car.

From Here;

Wastegate/Actuator mods and a flapper mod would be a good bet. (Possibly even earlier in the piece)

Full Upgrade piping/IC/CAI Kit

Possibly upgrading the engine Internals, etc...

Probably a Decent Surge Tankas well.

I'm a little hazy from here on, so you'll have to forgive my lack of knowledge in the 400rwkw club.

It's also important to make sure that with you 300rwkw of tyre shredding engine power that you take into account stopping power. Iconic Bionic said, "Whats the use of having all that power if you can't stop?" And that is very very true.

You also need to take into account;

Brakes - Discs/rotors/pads etc

Suspension - If you can't go round a corner properly, whats the point in having 300rwkw?

Have Quality tyres - Tyres are the only thing between you and the road, and the tiny surface actually in contact with the ground at any given time, is all you have to stop with. Please make sure you use a quality tyre.

Have your car serviced at the correct intervals - when you put so much money into a car, it pays to have it looked after.

Oil changes - Between ever 5,000 and 10,000km's (Many people like to use 7,500km) you must change your oil, clean the oil screens and use a quality product! Turbo's depend on the quality of the oil, so don't skimp on it.

Fluids - Also use a premium coolant, brake fluid, power steering fluids and gearbox fluids at all times.

Please don't take any of this as being set-in stone. there are numerous paths to take when modding. All I wanted was to give an example of a simple $2,000 upgrade and then another including more adventerous mods. As you can see my car is only at 240rwkw, so if I'm off with the prices/Power gains/Power levels, then I apologise, but I know someone will help me out :spoton:

These mods can also be done in different orders as well, so don't take this as gospel.

Well I hope that helps everyone out a little, and please add anything that you think will be of help.

Good luck and all the best :spoton:

Cheers and welcome,

Dan

Edited by Dagabond
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  • It's not a MKI!
  • Member
  • Member For: 15y 9m 10d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Earth

Nice list NVT.

What most people need to realise before they start doing any mods is there is always going to be something else that will go hand in hand when modding.

On that basis the very first thing you will need to set is your budget.

No point aiming for the stars if you've only got peanuts to spend.

So many people say 'I want 300rwkW+' blah blah so on and so forth.

There are many ways to achieve a number.

Some cheap, some not so cheap.

For example, you may be able to achieve 300rwkW+ but for how long?

If you get there by spending a couple of grand so be it, but I bet it doesn't last long.

This may not be applicable in the later BF MkII and FG models as they are a better foundation to start from.

On the other hand, it may cost you five times that much to achieve the same power but rest assured it will stay together a lot longer.

:dummyspit::spoton:

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  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 6m 18d
  • Location: Richmond, Melbourne

Hey guys,

Great write up, really informative!

Would someone be able to comment on the legalities of all of these modifications?

I'm still unsure on what's legal and what's not legal in terms of modifying these cars..

The last thing I want is void insurance from an illegal modification on the car..

Thanks,

Chris

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  • It's not a MKI!
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  • Member For: 15y 9m 10d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Earth

I think the term 'you play you pay' comes in here.

If you're worried about insurance, speak to your insurance company first and find out what the cover.

If they don't do much you have two options.

1. Find another insurer.

2. Leave it as it is.

There are mods out there that are legal but far and few between I think.

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  • Formerly EGOBFXR6
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 1m 24d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, WA

Fair question lover,

Companies like 'Just car' will cover any modification you do, as long as you tell them. If you 'omit' or 'forget' to tell them, your policy is void if you need to make a claim.

I'd say none of them are illegal as such, and they can all be covered. Try Just car mate.

I think the only issue you will have is things like BOV's that vent to the atmosphere. I believe some of these are illegal and will result in a yellow sticker. Also some POD filters and the like will also get you a defect notice.

Cheers mate,

Dan

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 15y 9m 15d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Gold Coast, QLD

I've been a silent member of this forum for a while now, and only recently (3 days ago) purchased an 11/05 BF XR6T with 62000kms and a set of 20"x8" on the front and 20"x10" wheels on the rear. Toxic in colour, and possibly the cleanest straightest example I could find on the market.

Mod wise it's stock apart from the wheels, and after reading the First Mods Post I'm impressed, it's made me realise that a bit of time and care in my choices can give a far better outcome, along with the same power, and a lot more reliability... Cheers guys, your input to this new member, has potentially saved me $$$$ without the 'fatherly lecture' on the cost of too much power etc. and given me a starting point.

post-15957-1241522427_thumb.jpg

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