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oh, it'll be too loud

haha fair enough, thought you were being serious about it... morning all, happy Wednesday 📦

Gave the boost tee two more turns today and it did fark all. No doubt there is something there but the seat of the pants was lacklustre. Pretty sure I can have my custom four inch turbo back system installed in a few hours. Gotta cut an shut a bit of it but the parts are here and I'm getting antsy. Hopefully it's not too loud lol

It's an excuse my son made as a toddler when he couldn't be farked.

why can't you walk 😮

Yes but I only have one thumb and I can't even walk

I have a 2002 XR6T manual with exactly the same problem that I have been chasing for half a year now. The car is totally stock (no flash tunes) and has been maintained very fastidiously since I bought it 19 years ago. The symptoms are that the fuel pump relay cuts out and then, the starter relay won't allow the engine to crank. It happens when the engine gets hot (it can occur after a short while in warm driving conditions, or after a short drive and stopping for a while - and heat soaking occurring) both the fuel pump and starter relays won't work. I have done significant testing to get to the "cause" of these relays not working including making a circuit board up with LEDs to monitor the voltages at each pin on both relays. I've traced the problem to the PCM not pulling the B27 FP pin (926) and EEC B (324) pin (for the fuel pump relay and starter relay respectively) to ground. These relays require the PCM to ground the negative pin on their coil to allow the PCM to turn them off (e.g. to turn off the fuel pump if the engine stalls). I have even run my diagnostics wires to the connector at the PCM to be sure the issue is not in the wiring loom as my diagnostics also includes two over-ride switches that I can switch to provide an alternate ground (instead of the PCM) and therefore allow the car to run when the fault occurs. When I use these override switches, the fuel pump and starter relays work fine (though obviously this is not safe to do as the fuel pump will continue to run if the engine stalls - say after a big accident - but this is just to diagnose the issue). I have sent the PCM, BCM and key to Injectronics for testing on their test rig and although the issue was still pretty intermittent the first time I sent it (it now is very consistent) and yet both times, they can't replicate the fault. I have faith in their testing and can only conclude that something (an input to the PCM) is causing it to turn both these relays off for some reason. As I said above, the fault occurs with heat (Injectronics tested it with heat and cold conditions, visually inspected the board for dry solder joints, cracks in tracks and blown ICs). I have seen the familiar DTC code (P0230) occur but to be honest, I need to do some more testing and reading of the Ford manual. I did wonder if it could be the crank sensor but I wouldn't expect that it would stop the starter output on the PCM from working (and you'd think it would also make it run pretty rough). I then wondered if it was something to do with the security system but when problem first occurs, the relay flickers (for a couple of seconds) before it cuts out (so its unlikely that the security system would trigger - via CAN - a flickering engine cut coms signal). Also (according to the Ford Manual), the security system also cuts ignition, so it can't be that as my "over-ride" switches allow the engine to run fine (when the fault occurs). I think I need to do some more testing (and reading of the Ford Manual) but I think my issue is very similar to yours and probably due to the same cause.

there is a joke thread, you know?

Righto here's two jokes I just thought up... Why did the bell get in trouble in class? Cos he said dong. Why did the bell go to the panelbeaters? Cos he had a little ding in him. Haha farken ha

converting to ethanol will gain more power with less stress and will be a lot easier on the BA motor if you're in a location that has it available. Bigger injectors will be needed as more volume is required than unleaded, as well as upgraded fuel lines as ethanol will eat the standard ones. but most of the way they're steel anyway so no biggie. BTRs are able to be built now to handle a lot more power than they used to. Mine was warrantied to 400RWKW

Fricken yay Tuesday

G'day newbie here and I have a series 2 74 Daimler sovereign, thinking Barra as well . Keen to know engine mounting set up . Or anything to be mindful of. Thanks

morning all, happy Tuesday 📥

Good luck with the mods. I hope that you enjoy it as much as I did. Have you created a build thread?

haha if I managed to guess that 100% correct, that'd be my best guess on something in years... but yeah, still, good on him for scrapping metal

Haha yeah probably, there is a scrap yard 5km from where the pic was taken.

classic country behaviour sold 'em for scrap metal but not paying for the pickup haha

Yes I couldn't work out wtf it was until I got close to it. There were multiple ratchet straps but one or two were loose and the white car was hanging off the side.

safe as houses

Seen this today

morning all, happy Monday 📤

Yay Sunday and yay Monday

I'm exactly the same as you. I'm just going through the process of tidying my engine bay. Nexus R5 and new wiring loom etc...

So yeah nothing much exciting going on really, I fixed a wiring issue on the territory today that prevented being able to manually shift gears. Now I can stall it up in 2nd gear, 3500rpm, full boost which is around 16psi and let it rip. It goes ok but it's probably just as quick using first gear. Nothing a bit more power wouldn't fix though

Not relevant but iv put 6 piston brembos with the brembo pads they came with on front with dba 355mm rotors on my fgx sedan, with safe brake braided lines all round, I left rear calipers and pads stock. I can say the braking is awesome!!