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Yay Thursday

morning all, happy Thursday and a public holiday if you've got one... and of course; 'lest we forget

Thanks Barra T, I'll do some testing/diagnostics when I get my PCM back and the cars running again. While the PCM was sent away, I took the chance to get around to replacing the Diff Mounts so I've taken out the IRS module (and I'm also replacing all the rear suspension bushes to freshen it up while the IRS module is out - even though they don't look bad at all) so it might be a little while to I can do anything. I'm not sure if the P0230 DTC is being set by my "over ride" grounding switch rather than from the actual fault. To enable the fuel pump to run when the fault occurs, I've wired in a "over ride" grounding switch in parallel with the PCM's grounding output. As you earlier pointed out (though the manual is a bit unclear about this), the P0230 error detects a fault in the "primary FP circuit" but under the heading of "Electrical Condition" it suggests (as you found) to check for a short between the relay and the pump (secondary circuit of the relay...). Since the PCM is only controlling (and presumably sensing its voltage) the relay coil's ground pin, I can't see how it can determine a short (or open circuit) in the secondary circuit (between the relay and the pump). But hey, I'm running out of ideas and there's nothing like getting input from someone who's had to deal with a similar problem, so thanks VERY much. The thing that worries me (about assuming it's the fuel pump) is that it runs fine when I use my over-ride switch but maybe it intermittently shorts (or open circuits) and then the PCM detects it (somehow) and then via the P0230 diagnostic fault shuts it down or something. After all, fuel pumps fail... Either that or I'm causing the P0230 fault (while trying to fix some other cause) and sending myself on a wild goose chase. Thanks again, your input is much appreciated. s

I have dealt with this issue in the past The relay shuts down due to a short circuit to ground Pull the pump, inspect / diagnose and if necessary replace .....

They changed some parts across the 3 models, in particular : The oil pump The Front band friction The planetary gears Valve body Here is website addresses for part list identification https://www.alltranz.com.au/shop/drivetrain/automatic-transmission/BTR_1994-02/ https://www.alltranz.com.au/shop/drivetrain/automatic-transmission/BTR-ION-DSI/BTR_BA/ https://www.alltranz.com.au/shop/drivetrain/automatic-transmission/BTR-ION-DSI/BTR_BF/ ...

Sure, Yes, Correct, The BTR transmission was made here in Australia Your contact for BTR parts here in Australia is Driveline : Website address is https://drivelineap.com.au/

Dear Community, my name is Riccardo and I hope that you can help me out, because nobody in Europe has ever heard of the BTR/ION/DSI transmission. I bought my childhood dream, a Maserati 3200 GT which has the M72 version installed and that gives me a tremendous headache. On my first "real" test drive the transmission decided to fail. The car is not moving forward or backwards. Since there is nobody who knows anything about the transmission, I took action myself and disassembled it. Turns out 2 clutch packs are burned and the planetary has gotten a lot of wear, so it can not be reused. After some months I came across a used auto transmission, put it into the car, but the same problem still occured. So I guess the torque converter is broken and has caused the prior damage. My reasearch about BTR always leads to Australia, but when I try to look something up, I can hardly find anything. It is not possible for me to find parts on e.g. Ebay or other websites. (Guess they are bind to specific locations) Have already tried to message some Youtubers and companies, but never received a reply. This is why I am hoping to find some infos in here. I´d be happy if someone would tell me a source for parts, alternatives or any which will help me putting a working transmission back into the car, so I can eventually enjoy it. I´m open to modifications, swaps, conversations to a manual etc. Any knowledge, hints or tips are highly appreciated ! Lots of greetings from Italy Riccardo

For anyone in the future that has a similar problem, this is what I was told today " They have come back stating the clutches are worn, bushes are worn and possible failed valve body. We are awaiting a quote on a replacement gearbox and quote on overhauling the box." In other words, she's I <3 Bananased.

In the last month, things have taken a bit of a turn. I have been able to get hold of some 6 piston front and 4 piston rear Brembos at a price too good to pass up, so I am going down that path. I have purchased the calipers, new discs and 18" wheels that fit over the brembos, so just need to sort out suitable brake lines for the calipers I have. I still like the idea of the 340mm Territory Turbo discs and caliper fitting under the stock wheels, so I will probably still continue with this project, but later on.

Hi Peeps , I havent left am still here . few things happend with health and family . now iam back looking /researching . this will happen eventually .

oh, it'll be too loud

haha fair enough, thought you were being serious about it... morning all, happy Wednesday 📦

Gave the boost tee two more turns today and it did fark all. No doubt there is something there but the seat of the pants was lacklustre. Pretty sure I can have my custom four inch turbo back system installed in a few hours. Gotta cut an shut a bit of it but the parts are here and I'm getting antsy. Hopefully it's not too loud lol

It's an excuse my son made as a toddler when he couldn't be farked.

why can't you walk 😮

Yes but I only have one thumb and I can't even walk

I have a 2002 XR6T manual with exactly the same problem that I have been chasing for half a year now. The car is totally stock (no flash tunes) and has been maintained very fastidiously since I bought it 19 years ago. The symptoms are that the fuel pump relay cuts out and then, the starter relay won't allow the engine to crank. It happens when the engine gets hot (it can occur after a short while in warm driving conditions, or after a short drive and stopping for a while - and heat soaking occurring) both the fuel pump and starter relays won't work. I have done significant testing to get to the "cause" of these relays not working including making a circuit board up with LEDs to monitor the voltages at each pin on both relays. I've traced the problem to the PCM not pulling the B27 FP pin (926) and EEC B (324) pin (for the fuel pump relay and starter relay respectively) to ground. These relays require the PCM to ground the negative pin on their coil to allow the PCM to turn them off (e.g. to turn off the fuel pump if the engine stalls). I have even run my diagnostics wires to the connector at the PCM to be sure the issue is not in the wiring loom as my diagnostics also includes two over-ride switches that I can switch to provide an alternate ground (instead of the PCM) and therefore allow the car to run when the fault occurs. When I use these override switches, the fuel pump and starter relays work fine (though obviously this is not safe to do as the fuel pump will continue to run if the engine stalls - say after a big accident - but this is just to diagnose the issue). I have sent the PCM, BCM and key to Injectronics for testing on their test rig and although the issue was still pretty intermittent the first time I sent it (it now is very consistent) and yet both times, they can't replicate the fault. I have faith in their testing and can only conclude that something (an input to the PCM) is causing it to turn both these relays off for some reason. As I said above, the fault occurs with heat (Injectronics tested it with heat and cold conditions, visually inspected the board for dry solder joints, cracks in tracks and blown ICs). I have seen the familiar DTC code (P0230) occur but to be honest, I need to do some more testing and reading of the Ford manual. I did wonder if it could be the crank sensor but I wouldn't expect that it would stop the starter output on the PCM from working (and you'd think it would also make it run pretty rough). I then wondered if it was something to do with the security system but when problem first occurs, the relay flickers (for a couple of seconds) before it cuts out (so its unlikely that the security system would trigger - via CAN - a flickering engine cut coms signal). Also (according to the Ford Manual), the security system also cuts ignition, so it can't be that as my "over-ride" switches allow the engine to run fine (when the fault occurs). I think I need to do some more testing (and reading of the Ford Manual) but I think my issue is very similar to yours and probably due to the same cause.

there is a joke thread, you know?

Righto here's two jokes I just thought up... Why did the bell get in trouble in class? Cos he said dong. Why did the bell go to the panelbeaters? Cos he had a little ding in him. Haha farken ha

converting to ethanol will gain more power with less stress and will be a lot easier on the BA motor if you're in a location that has it available. Bigger injectors will be needed as more volume is required than unleaded, as well as upgraded fuel lines as ethanol will eat the standard ones. but most of the way they're steel anyway so no biggie. BTRs are able to be built now to handle a lot more power than they used to. Mine was warrantied to 400RWKW

Fricken yay Tuesday

G'day newbie here and I have a series 2 74 Daimler sovereign, thinking Barra as well . Keen to know engine mounting set up . Or anything to be mindful of. Thanks

morning all, happy Tuesday 📥

Good luck with the mods. I hope that you enjoy it as much as I did. Have you created a build thread?

haha if I managed to guess that 100% correct, that'd be my best guess on something in years... but yeah, still, good on him for scrapping metal