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norrs

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norrs last won the day on October 29 2022

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About norrs

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  1. I tried to post pics but the site says I've reached my media limit or something??
  2. ok so what I have figured out is that you don't need to remove the seats. I think on the B series you did to get the bolts on the side of the floor console. What I did was remove the middle trim, undo the obvious screws. remove the passenger side trim of the floor console and the other 10mm bolt on the drivers side near the bottom of the ICC. remove the boot for the hand brake and shifter. remove the small bolt under the handbrake boot. undo the three bolts surrounding the shifter selector. there is one tek screw either side of the floor console that can be reached with a 10mm socket extension right next to the seat belt buckle. at the bottom of the console box is two tabs you need to get a small screw driver in as you lift the whole console. then it should be able to pop up about 3-5cm. jump under the car and undo the 4 nuts holding the floor of the shifter unit. then as you lift the console you should be able to wiggle the shifter selector cover out. I then cut the shifter cable and pulled it through the firewall. there was no way of getting it out in one piece without removing the floor console completely. with the new one, I inserted the cable from the inside of of the car through the firewall. I then pulled it through from under the car and into position. I then tucked the shift end of the cable under the passenger trim side (rather than the back and through the middle like the original cable was). then I could grab it from near the tissue box area and pull it into position. once installed on the shifter It took a lot of jiggling around to get the selector cover back into place. its a sh*t design but it can be done. once its all clipped in, put it into park (check with the key on) and push the retaining tab down on the transmission end of the cable to secured the position as correctly adjusted.
  3. Hi brains trust. I'm buggered if I can find a thread on replacing the shifter cable. My bush at the shifter end of the cable has broken. I have a new cable to install. Do I seriously have to remove the whole floor console including the front seats to do this job? FG BTW
  4. The Pierburg 360 LPH. I have a process west original surge tank. I see plenty of people use them. They claim to flow plenty more than 044's
  5. So my fourth Bosch 044 is on its way out in the last 10 years. I see they are now replaced with the 200 series which I might get. Question is, if I change to a pierburg Will I need a retune or will the regulator just sort the pressure increase out? I only ask as my tuner is injured and out of action for a while. I don't want to go elsewhere so if I need a retune I might just grab a 200 series for now.
  6. Well I did and it didn't work. So I pulled it off to inspect and the filter is bent. Not sure if it happened before or after I got hold of it. Anyway I got another one and that fitted fine first time without even being that tight! God I hate the smell of fuel. It's all over me.
  7. FFS I have the same issue. I keep nipping it up but it keeps leaking. I've got to the point now where it's super tight. I feel like I'm going to strip something if I go any tighter. Do I seriously just keep tightening it?
  8. The chain comes off easy once you release the tensioner. Just spin the engine until you're at TDC before you do it so everything lines up easily again. It can take up to 36 rotations to get to TDC.
  9. Ok so here is the summary/follow up/update and tips for noobs like me who want to do work on the timing chain while the engine is in the car. Firstly, the chain did skip a tooth, so good call by Jet. It turns out it was the tensioner that failed. I’ve now installed the full atomic kit though I’ve gone OEM for the tensioner. Regarding the process and tips: • You have to remove: o Fans o Power steering pump o Alternator bolts and front bracket o Drive belt and pulleys o The sump does not need to be removed but it has 4 bolts that need to be removed o Water pump (I’ll explain why below) o Oil feed and water feed lines for the turbo o The radiator can stay in but it will make tapping the balancer back on hard because there is no room to swing a mallet. • You’ll need to buy in advance: o Half moon seal for sump o Front crank seal o Gasket for water pump and rubber o-ring o Ultra grey silicone or something similar o Borrow a strong stubby rattle gun o Borrow a balancer removal tool • Seems obvious but make sure that you put cardboard over your radiator to protect it while doing this work. Once the fans are out, you have a max of 130mm between the radiator and the crank bolt so it’s very tight. A stubby rattle gun just fits. • Although it’s probably possible to remove the timing cover with the water pump in place, on my car is wasn’t. After prising for two evenings, I was only able to pry right down to the water pump but no further. It was starting to damage the cover so I gave up and removed the water pump and it basically fell of as soon as I did. So it was clearly holding it in there somehow. Perhaps it had silastic overlapping?? IDK, my car had stupid amounts of silastic on it from the factory (F6 2010). The other issue is that you can’t get an angle on the lower part of the cover with a prise tool without the pump out. Now that I have thought about it further, I think you could only do it with the water pump in if you can get the dowels out before the cover is removed. I couldn’t get them out. • The problem with half doing the timing cover and then taking off the water pump later is that the residual water in the pump cavity then falls into the sump!!. This is because you have created a gap in the seal while trying to get the cover off. So I suggest just taking the water pump off first and get all the water out before you attack the timing cover. Removing the water pump is a 10 min job. Just do it. It also makes cleaning the contact surfaces much easier when it comes to reinstallation. • Getting the crank pulley bolt off was ridiculous on an auto. There is heaps of silastic behind the bolt. After trying various methods, breaker bars, air jack hammer on breaker bar, and rattle guns I ended up getting a hand impact wrench power bar thing. Even that didn’t work the first evening with a sledge hammer. What eventually worked was tightening it with the hand impact wrench and then two big hits back the other way and then then the stubby rattle gun did the trick. If that failed my next step was to remove the starter motor and chock the gears. I wasn’t keen on the old crank the engine thing, but I understand that works. I know a guy who works at ford. I called them for some tips and even they suggested the crank your car method if desperate. • The special crank pulley tool is a must if the engine is still in the car. With the engine out I’m sure you could use a generic puller. • Now getting the timing cover back on was a bitch. The dowels cause you to push the cover in flush with the sump and therefore to pinch and rip out the moon seal. My solution was, leave the front main seal off the cover, leave the dowels out, put all your silicone on the cover (after its all clean of course), hold the bottom of the crank hole in the timing cover flush with the bottom of the crank shaft then slide it on over the moon seal (this buys you about 5-10mm of clearance to pass the moon seal), once you hit the block then slide the cover down vertically to clamp it on the seal. I then tapped it with a rubber mallet and prised it down while I tapped the dowels into place. Job done. • Now from what I understand you put some silicone on the key way of the crank and then some on the bolt/washer to prevent oil leaks. • Retightening the balancer bolt to 125nm was a bitch. It’s the same problem with taking it off. What I ended up doing (and this may work for removal too) is get an old drive belt, cut it in half, wrap it around anti-clockwise (when tightening), overlap it slightly on itself and then go around the chassis, wrap it around and then clamp it with a c-clamp to the chassis. I saw this technique on youtube and it worked for me to tighten it. • One last tip, the long bolts at the very top of the timing cover are easy to strip the threads out of the head. I could feel it binding in the last 4 mm’s when screwing it by hand. I pulled it out and in a few times to check for filings but none were present. I eventually tightened it with my torque wrench set less than recommended and snap!!! Stripped the thread out of the head!! So I’ll be putting a helicoil in. When I gave the balancer removal tool back to its owner, the guy told me he did the same thing with the same bolt on his car (left hand top cover bolt). I did those bolts last. Perhaps a suggestion is to do the top bolts first before the others so the cover can settle in. All in all, it was a bitch of a job and I can see what you might pay up to $1000 in labour. I learnt lots and as always thanks to everyone for all of your help.
  10. The problem is the dowels stop you from pushing it in any other way. Did you use the dowels?
  11. FFS I'm about ready to push the car to the curb for the cyclone cleanup. Either that or pull the engine out!! How the hell do you get the timing cover back on when you have put a new half moon on the sump. The moons keep popping out of the recess as I slide it on over the dowels. I can now see why you'd want the sump off to do it. What's the trick? Pull the the timing crank seal to gain some extra height, don't use dowels and once over the moon and in place use the sump bolts to pull the case down into position? Or do I glue the moon seal down and just ram it home?
  12. Well it's all installed. I went genuine tensioner. Do you guys just put your sump half moons in dry or do you add any sealant? The Ford manual says dry. The old one looked like it had loctight under it? The manual also says to add sealant to the key way for the balancer. Is this what you guys do?
  13. A Ford one or atomic? I read on here some people saying there were issues with atomic but I also heard they have a new product.
  14. So yeah it jumped a tooth. Atomic kit finally arrived. I've pulled the old chain off to replace everything. When the tensioner came off the piston fell out and almost into the sump. I thought they weren't supposed to do that. On closer inspection it appears the teeth on the catch stopping it thrusting forward have warn off down. Am I right? Is this broken and I should buy a new one. If so should I get an atomic one or an OEM. I read some threads on here where people were saying OEM but that was a few years ago.
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