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Low power and loss of power


P2P01

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  • Bronze Donating Members
  • Member For: 10y 2d

Carby spray works good to, have the pipe on so you can direct it, where ever it's sucked in the engine will run rough, plus it dries clean (but it does attack paint, after all it is nail polish remover)

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  • Puff
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  • Member For: 9y 1m 28d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: South Australia
5 hours ago, P2P01 said:

The car drives somewhat sluggish and im getting fullboost (16psi) around 4200rpm.

 

Was it sluggish before the tune?

 

To me this first points to a exhaust manifold and or wastegate leak. Check all of the head to manifold and the manifold to turbo bolts to make sure they're tight. You can drop the dump from the turbo to check the wastegate isn't stuck open. Check the gaskets to make sure they aren't blown out somewhere but check this bit last as it is a fair bit of stuffing around to do this. You wont always hear this type of leak.

 

Make sure your actuator is still connected to the flapper arm as even with the wastegate flapping in the breeze it will still make that much boost at about that rpm.

 

It could also be a boost pressure leak and once again you'll need to check that all the rubber and plastic fittings aren't cracked or have holes/splits in them and if they are ok you'll need to check that every single fitting from the turbo to the intake manifold is done up tight.

 

There could be other causes but this is what I would look at first.

 

Why did the shop let it go out when it was clearly not ok? Maybe take it back to them and ask them to fix it?!

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  • Member For: 6y 2m 15d

Yes it was sluggish to begin with. The shop only let out go because I needed it in the road for work purposes. I think I need to look closer at the turbo. With it taken out can it be visually inspected to see if it is anything to do with it or the actuator? 

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  • Puff
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  • Member For: 9y 1m 28d
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  • Location: South Australia

You don't want to pull the turbo out. If it isn't making a "my bearing is stuffed" or "my wheels are touching the housings" noise then leave it on and only remove it to check the gasket after everything else is ruled out. It is a pita to r&r if you haven't done it before and at this stage you don't need to remove it. If you do wanna check it a bit then pull the intake tube off and give the turbo shaft a wiggle.

 

You can reach around the back of the turbo if your hands and arms will fit, to feel if the actuator is still connected. You can also grab the rod with some long nose pliers or poke it with a stick and if it can be moved around it's safe to say it isn't connected. You can confirm that the wastegate is firmly shut by dropping the dump off.

 

It's very common for the turbos and manifolds to loosen up over time so I'd check there first.

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