Question regarding a 12psi actuator

[XR6T2763]

Could someone tell me what they would expect the outcome to be if a 12/7/5psi actuator was installed in a stock BA XR6 Turbo but wasn’t adjusted and left at the default setting (12psi).

 

I originally had a mechanic friend install the actuator (original was faulty) but I believe he may have not adjusted it before installing. 

 

Thanks for any input.

[JETURBO]

The actuator is a key part to boost control in a turbo falcon and the factory/aftermarket tune needs to work to the base setting on the actuator 

 

without having the actuator set correctly and tune to suit you’ll either see boost cut or if tuned in open loop you’ll see whatever boost the set up will make and potentially blow the engine up 

 

the rating of an actuator is at the point it will start to open NOT the total amount it can hold 

a typical actuator can hold double it’s rating no worries 

 

beware ! 

[k31th]

^^this guy^^ knows

[XR6T2763]

Haha, that's good because I know NOTHING. I'm one of these people that likes fast cars but doesn't know much about them unfortunately.

 

I asked my mate and he says he does recall setting the actuator up to the appropriate stock boost level but I've received ''Waste-gate Failed (Closed) errors on my OBDII and thought maybe the waste-gate is not opening because the actuator is set to open at 12psi but the stock boost is only like 5psi. Thanks for your explanation JETURBO.

 

 

I'll leave a short history of my car troubles below if anyone is willing (or bored enough) to have a read . 

 

 

Car - 2005 BA MK II XR6 Turbo ute (230,000km)

 

I originally started experiencing boost cutout and rough idle about 10-12 months ago (the boost would cut and I'd hear a BRRR Sound until I took my foot off) so I took it to my mechanic mate who found a fault (waste-gate actuator) and he replaced it. The new actuator didn't fix the problem and my fuel consumption became really high with a strong smell of fuel. Since then I've also replaced.... 

 

- Solenoid

- Coils

- Spark Plugs

- o2 Sensor

- Fuel Pump (Most of the fuel smell went away after this)

- Cleaned fuel line

 

Fuel consumption still REALLY high (19.6L/100KM) and the car was running rich according to OBDII, at this point I replaced

 

- MAP sensor

- Injectors 

- TPS Sensor

- Cleaned Throttle Body

 

After all this the car runs like crap, chews through petrol and the boost comes on ''inconsistently''. When floored from a standstill it will cutout but doesn't when I'm already moving. Previously I'd get errors saying the car was running RICH but now I get errors saying the car is running LEAN .  I also have errors that indicate a possible vacuum/boost leak, I've sprayed soapy water (couldn't find anything) but was wondering if borrowing an air compressor and doing it that way might be the smarter way to go because I assume you need to simulate the actual boost going through the car like when you're moving. 

 

I've been advised to take it to a tuner but from what I understand I'd be looking at $800+. The car is an 2005 model with 230,000km so at this point I don't think I want to be spending too much money on a car that's hardly worth anything to begin with.

Edited 16/11/17 11:32 AM by XR6T2763

[k31th]

You NEED a factory actuator installed and the car to be taken to a tuner who knows these cars well for diagnosis, at a bare minimum. It won't cost you heaps for either of those things... But post diagnosis, depending on the results, could cost you. Good luck and

[XR6T2763]

Thanks. I can see you're from Melbourne but would you know any reputable tuners in Western Sydney where I could get diagnostics performed?

 

Thank you, you guys have been very helpful.

[Head]

On 11/16/2017 at 10:27 PM, XR6T2763 said:

...I've been advised to take it to a tuner but from what I understand I'd be looking at $800+....

You’ve already spent a sh*tload of money replacing items so why not spend the $800 and get it right?

 

On 11/16/2017 at 10:34 PM, k31th said:

You NEED a factory actuator installed and the car to be taken to a tuner who knows these cars well for diagnosis, at a bare minimum. It won't cost you heaps for either of those things... But post diagnosis, depending on the results, could cost you. Good luck and

He doesn’t NEED the factory actuator but the would’ve been the simplest solution in the beginning. Any actuator would work it just needs to be tuned for it.

[k31th]

while you're right in the fact that it's not a "need", specifically, but I was trying to get him out of this y situation while costing the least. After that, go nuts and install an actuator and whatever other mods float your boat when you decide that the money is worth it.

[Box stock T.]

Given the fact that old mate has a stock car, the NEED to put a OEM actuator back on seems like the most logical way to go. There's no way old mate's mechanic  mate could make an error on setting it up if there is only one spring. Aftermarket parts aren't always the best option.

[Puffwagon]

If its already got an actuator installed then it should be tuned along with injectors and fuel pump installed. 

 

It's been 6 weeks, op should have done something by now.